Shorted my throttle wires, bike doesn't work

[vehicularmanslaughter]

I've got a 1500w Voilamart rear hub motor. It was working.
I was swapping the external controllers from 1000w to 1500w, in the process I shorted the throttle wires, all of them together at once. (I was putting metal male/female adapters and spaced on taping them up before introducing battery voltage). Dumb, I know. It was a 6-pin thumb throttle.
Anyhoo I got a new throttle as I assumed I had burned up that one, and scrapped the 1500w controller. So now I had a brand new throttle, and a controller that was unaffected by the short, that I knew to be in working order hooked up.
The switch on the throttle shows power but pressing the thumbpiece does nothing.
So I determine from this that the hall sensors in the hub motor must have been affected. No visible signs but I had a spare hall sensor board and replace the whole thing. The motor works! Although I had a feeling it was going to fail. Rode for a few miles, got to a hill and it cut out a few times, started working again, and then completely died. Back to throttle showing power but pressing does nothing. What the hell is going on???

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I recommend buying one if these eBike diagnostic tools. With it you can easily tell what componet is not working. I bought one on Amazon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3T982cgJUk&t=2s

 

[amberwolf]

Some notes for future reference first:

If the throttle had battery voltage running to it (for a power meter, etc) and all the wiring shorted together, then it's possible that before ground shorted to it and shut off power, battery voltage went to everything on the system that was 5v (throttle, PAS sensor, motor-hall sensors, ebrake-hall sensors, gearshift sensors, etc., whichever ones you have on the system).

So any or all of those parts may have failed and then would need to be replaced.

If yours failed, motor hall sensors are usually SS41 or SS411 types (or clones thereof), 5v-powered bipolar latching open-collector hall sensors. (the lower they will go in power supply voltage the better, some go down to 3v minimum, most of them will go up to 20-30v maximum, but that part doesn't usually matter).


Note that the same type of failure is very common for the same reason (battery voltage shorted to 5v system wiring) with motor cable damage (often either from a crash or other impact to the axle-end/wiring, or from not using torque arms or using cheap ones that can't actually secure the motor axle, or improperly mounting them, so that the axle is able to spin in the dropouts and rip up the motor cable).




Regarding the problem after replacing controller and throttle and hall board, it could just be a bad controller, or the controller could've damaged itself trying to drive the motor with bad hall signals before the hall board was replaced.

Or...if the controller has an autolearn feature for hall/phase combination and this wasn't used, and manual hall/phase matching wasn't done, it could've failed from the incorrect hall sequence causing the controller to drive the motor wrong, damaging either the controller (usually the FETs and sometimes the gate drivers) or the motor phases (usually the windings) or both.