Specialized Crossroads Sport Build?

[rlhunt2]

This fall I added a Amped kit to a Sun Tricycle for my wife and all is well after adding a locking brake and a coaster brake kit. Now I am trying to decide whether to Buy a Prodeco Storm or build one for myself . I have a Specialized Crossroads Sport that I bought used that is in good shape . Research says that it should have had steel forks but they are not . Must be it is newer than I guessed. I tried to figure out if forks could be changed . It was pretty easy to add the front direct drive motor to the Trike so that is the direction I wanted to go. I want a Bike that would go about 20-25MPH. Distance would be 20-25 Miles . I'm not commuting , this is just for fun. We have some really nice trails here. The weather is turning cold here fast so there is plenty of time for planning and building before warm weather returns.
Questions:
1 Is the bike mentioned above adequate as it is without changing the forks
2 If Not Is it worth it to buy forks? they are pretty pricey. Looks like you could almost buy a new bike for some of the prices I have seen
3 If it is worth pursuing the forks , how do I pick them and where is a good place.
4 I have been watching Craigs list for an adequate used bike but I don't know of the right bikes to pick. I have seen Trek 820 mentioned here, as well as other models but I don't know if they have steel forks or are adequate .
5 is rear drive better than front
6 It looks like the Prodeco for $1300.00 would be about what I would have into a new Bike and conversion parts. any experience with Prodeco ? I didn't get much results in a search on that either.
7 I would consider buying a new bike if I knew it was adequate , but again ebike compatibility issue is there. Any suggestions?

I'm sure you all must have answered most of these questions but I have spent weeks reading and searching and feel overwhelmed by my ignorance and lack of clear cut answers from searching. Your help would be appreciated.

 

[rlhunt2]

No help here so i went to my Local bike shop. They quoted $100.00 for a new steel front fork including the install, so I think that is what i will do.
And I will probably go to Emissins Free for the motor kit.

 

[Drunkskunk]

Front VS rear is a matter of personal choice, but that bike is a good candidate for a rear motor. With a 7 speed rear end, it will be a nearly straight forward conversion. As Bassis for conversion, its a far better bike with better componants than the produckco thing.

If you want advice, save your self $100 and mount a rear motor. The only real advantage front motors give is simplicity of mounting, but if you have to change forks, that erases that simplicity.

 

[rlhunt2]

Hey Drunkskunk,
Thanks for the suggestion. I thought it would be more trouble to put one on the back. i am fairly mechanically inclined but haven't installed any wheels on a rear bike with a derail-er and such, just on single speed coaster bikes when i was a kid. Is that any big deal?
As for the speeds this Specialized has 21 but I only use 7, Is that OK?

I noticed Emissions Free has a Mac motor rear geared kit. That hundred bucks you saved me could go toward that better kit.

 

[dogman dan]

Good advice! Assuming this is a hardtail bike, you'd be able to put a rear motor on it, then carry a battery in the frame.

You might want to lean towards the slower motors for trail use, so you can climb hills a bit cooler. Depends on your trails though, around here 25 mph on the trails would have you flying over the bars and eating rocks.

At some point, now that you seem fairly hooked on this hobby, you'll have to learn to take a back wheel off just to fix a flat. It's not that bad, but for the first time a picture of the bike before you take off the wheel might be helpfull.

You will need a 7 speed freewheel to go with the new motor.

 

[rlhunt2]

Assuming this is a hardtail bike, you'd be able to put a rear motor on it, then carry a battery in the frame.

It is a hardtail. Is mounting the battery on a rack ok ?

You might want to lean towards the slower motors for trail use, so you can climb hills a bit cooler

That sounds good . Some of the trails are straight and flat but when i took that trike out a couple of days ago I almost lost it on a curve because i wasn't used to the balance.The Trike would get to 15MPH on the flats and up over 20 with a slight decline.There are a few steep hills like the kind I have to get off and walk up because I can't stand on the cranks long enough to make it up. So when you say slower , should it be a slower speed geared hubmotor like say 255 RPM. like this one: The Mac Torque kit comes complete with a 10T, 255rpm loaded at 36V motor, built into a quality double wall, 26", eyeletted, CNC sidewall and anodised rim with 13G black stainless steel spokes. The controller is a quality Infineon 6 fet (EB209) fitted with either IRFB3077 (75V fets, up to 48V battery pack) or IRFB4110 (100V fets, up to 72V battery pack).

You answered my question about the free wheel before I could ask.
Thank You for your help.

 

[Drunkskunk]

If it was my money, I'd buy the MAC. That plus your current bike is better than any prebuilt bike sold under $5k.
The MAC will be better on the trails. And a rear wheel drive bike is better off road than a front wheel.

A battery on a back rack is a mount of last resort, especialy off road. the closer you get your weight to the center of the bike, the better it will handle. If you can mount the battery in the triangle, that is Ideal. If not, getting the weight closer to the handlebars will improve handling.

If you can imagine drawing a line from the head tube straight back to the rear axle, putting the weight along that line is best for balance, and the closer you move that weight to the center, the less it will effect the bike.

 

[jkbrigman]

Go for it! The Crossroads Sport is a super-fine bike.

I am adding rear-drive 9c 2810 to a Specialized Expedition Sport. I am extremely happy with how the conversion is going. I'll post a build thread soon, after it's done. If I may please offer a few suggestions:

- ensure the mac motor kit includes a "torque arm". You'll need that to prevent axle spinout. I got the ebikes.ca rear torque arm to work by screwing it to the upper right threaded hole in the dropout. You have to keep that upper rear threaded hole for the rack and fenders.

- My tires are 26", yours are 700c. Nothing terrible, just keep it in mind when you order a motor kit.

- I'm using a battery bag made to fit in the frame triangle from a company called "FalconEV". Cost me $55, worth every penny. There are plenty of guys here on E-S who have used this bag and vouch for it.

- I have a 6-fet controller, it works fine. I think it's similar to what cell_man cells with his kits

- You can't go wrong with cell_man!

- dogman's advice is solid!

 

[rlhunt2]

If it was my money, I'd buy the MAC. That plus your current bike is better than any prebuilt bike sold under $5k

Cool , now I'll have to figure out a mount for the battery. Ok so I think I can fabricate a bracket to fit where the water bottle holder is.

is this a good choice for the battery: from Emissions- Free 39V 11.5Ah A123 Pack
A123 M1A 39VV 11.5Ah Battery Pack complete with 30A BMS
Item #A12312S5P30A
Price $425


The picture is getting a little more clear. My guess is i won't be able to wait till spring . I could start building now and hope for a few clear days this winter.

Dogman said I needed a 7 Speed Freewheel . Is it likely I can just ask my LBS for one for the model of the bike and they will know exactly what i need?

 

[mark5]

... I thought it would be more trouble to put one on the back. i am fairly mechanically inclined but haven't installed any wheels on a rear bike with a derail-er and such, just on single speed coaster bikes when i was a kid. Is that any big deal?

rlhunt2, it should be pretty easy to install a rear hub motor. See Hyena Electric Bike's excellent installation video below. Old wheel lifted out at 4:32, freewheel put on hub motor, and rear hub motor slid into bike's dropouts at 6:40.

Hyena Elecric Bikes kit installation tutorial
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwIp3GC5F_c

 

[jkbrigman]

It shouldn't end up being so complicated a project that it takes you the whole winter. In fact, with E-S consultation and the right parts, it'll go together fast. Some info for you:

1) Freewheel: get the Shimano Megarange freewheel. Comes cheap from your LBS in a red box marked "Sun Race".
https://www.google.com/search?q=sun+race+megarange+freewheel&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=6oZ&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=LMV9UI71LcHlqgHR64DoDg&ved=0CDkQsAQ&biw=1457&bih=970

My Expedition Sport came stock with this freewheel on it already, but I bought another one just so I didn't have to move the freewheel back and forth between one wheel or the other. I paid $15 for mine at LBS, 7 speed.

2) Info about freewheels:
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html

3) I bought a Park freewheel tool, but if you only plan to ever put the freewheel on once and never mess with it, you'll not need one. Note that the Park freewheel tool has to be drilled out to go over the typical motor shaft.

4) I bought the ebikes.ca rear freewheel torque arm and it worked with the size and shape of dropouts we both have on our bikes.

Good luck!
JKB

 

[rlhunt2]

Hyena Elecric Bikes kit installation tutorial

I'll definitely check it out, I appreciate that mark5

It shouldn't end up being so complicated a project that it takes you the whole winter

The plan was to wait till spring and then pursue a bike , or build. I just know now that I won't have the patience. JK it's prett convienent that our bikes are similar. I would probably forgot about the torque arm if you hadn't mentioned that . In the Amped kit for the trike it came with a torque arm .
You have provided lots of good info . Thanks so much. I've got to run now
Bob

 

[litespeed]

Excellent choice and my first one...... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21516

Tom

 

[Drunkskunk]

The 39 volt battery will possably meet you needs, but you'll soon wish you have the 52 volt battery. Its probably the most common ebike regret, not getting the higher voltage battery.


Getting a new freewheel (Note: not a casset) is cheaper than the tool to remove your old one. Much easier too. You don't need any tools to put one on, it just spins on my hand.

 

[rlhunt2]

My tires are 26", yours are 700c.

Looks like Cell-Man doesn't have 700 wheel kits so that plan is askew.

The 39 volt battery will possibly meet you needs, but you'll soon wish you have the 52 volt battery

I would take your advice but now I have to find another motor kit vendor , I think

 

[mark5]

My tires are 26", yours are 700c.

Looks like Cell-Man doesn't have 700 wheel kits so that plan is askew.

I would take your advice but now I have to find another motor kit vendor , I think

You'd tell him what wheel size you wanted when you order. Motor kit description last sentence says, "Kits are also available with 700C, 20" and 24" as required."

 

[rlhunt2]

OK Mark , That's good news . Thank's for pointing that out. Sorry I missed that .

 

[rlhunt2]

From Drunkskunk

If it was my money, I'd buy the MAC. That plus your current bike is better than any prebuilt bike sold under $5k.

Based on 5K I'm still ahead of the game but now I'm up over a grand for the conversion.
From Cell-Man
Mac rear hubmotor kit $350.00
52V Battery $550.00
FreeWheel $35.00
Chain $35.00
Rear Torque Arm $38.00
---------------------------------------------
$1008.00
I bought the bike from Craig's List for $120.00

Does this make sense?
I'm not going to be a hard core rider like many of you. We're talking occasional weekend use 7-8 months out of the year.

 

[rlhunt2]

In light of the shipping problems with lithium batteries I just wondered why i shouldn't go with the old SLA battery pack.
a 12AH 36Volt pack with a bag, and charger can be purchased for $200.00 including freight.
The Lipo pack from Cell-man for a 39V 11.5AH pack is $425.00 and the shipping would be over $100.00 if you can get one in 6 weeks.

I would be a casual rider rather than a commuter so the 200 charge/discharge cycles would last at least a year, probably longer.
Even if I did have to replace the battery pack every year , it would take almost 4 years to reach the cost of the lipos if the batteries were replaced at a cost of $120.00 per year. When and if the shipping problem with China gets resolved or in the unlikely event that a US manufacturer is able to make the batteries and sell them here then I could upgrade to the lighter more efficient battery packs. What am I missing here?