spokes loosening

[Eskimo]

I started to lose spokes again from my velomobile DD-realwheel, just like i did from my front DD-cruiser rearwheel two years ago.
Replaced the thin aluminium stock rim with wide steel rim, again. Problem solved, again.
Wide steel rims weigh a ton and rust if left without attention and rim brakes work poorly with them but god i love them. They just stop spoke breaking right there.
Old rim 492g, steel rim 1050g. Extra weight exactly where it serves.

 

[Chalo]

All else equal, a stiff rim will yield better reliability than a flexible rim. That means a sturdy double walled aluminum rim will always outperform a steel rolled sheet metal rim every time.

There are times when for reasons of budget or other practical factors, a 1750 gram steel rim will be a better choice than a sub 700 gram aluminum rim. But if your project can afford a good quality aluminum rim in the size and width range that fits the requirement, it will consistently be a better choice than a steel rim.

If you have a mountain bike capable of fitting fat tires, with disc brakes, it will most likely be able to accept a double walled rim like the Origin 8 DAT-PRO-65. That rim weighs less than 1100g, but has far more structural integrity than any steel rim of twice the weight.

 

[209143]

Mines a T6065 alloy aluminum double wall rim. Came with the kit, but it's just a sticker...lol.

 

[dogman dan]

Try to find the one spoke that is much looser than the others. Get them all about the same tightness. Get a proper spoke wrench, cheap on ebay if they don't have them at walmart or whatever. The kind with multiple sizes. One should fit your nipples.

Then when the wheel is relatively balanced in tension, start working on truing it. My trick is a zip tie on the frame, cut to rub the rim. Go after the egg shape first, then try to get it straight from side to side. I try to never turn any one nipple more than 1/4 turn. Since I'll turn it the wrong way plenty of times, don't go for big swings at it. I like to line up the nipples, so each application of the wrench is the same as you go around the wheel. No groping for the right angle.

Back to the tight or loose thing. WE KNOW you cannot tighten those 12 spokes properly, using that bike rim. So it MAY NEVER be completely quiet. But it should not go ping every revolution, like it will with a very loose spoke in there someplace. I have also heard wheels ping a bit after parking. Particularly if I have some spokes too tight.

How tight? Exactly as tight as you would have with 14 g, regular bike spokes. I never meant run the wheel so loose it's floppy. But since you cannot tighten to the correct tension for 12g without risking rim problems, you may never get the wheel completely quiet. But I cannot emphasize enough, keep cranking till it shuts up is not right. Many over tighten cheaply spoked motor wheels, then break even more spokes, and ruin rims.

 

[209143]

this turned into a good thread lots of great info. think i'll look into some of those 13/14's. my concern is safety.

 

[Eskimo]

What i also like in single-wall steel rim is that i can change the spoke without removing the tire, if required. With double-wall rim it"s pretty hard, nipples tend to drop there inside the rim.
Expensive and heavy aluminium rim is propably good too, but right now i am very happy with old nineties-MTB-style wide steel rims. I don"t have a rim brake at the back.
Though i am planning to use really wide (65mm) rear rim, then i have to go back to aluminum. Those original 25mm wide alu rims are just poor, expecially in a velomobile where rim has to stand considerable side loads when turning. Those original motor spokes appear to be 2,5mm thick, or close. They don"t bend much, that"s true.

 

[amberwolf]

this turned into a good thread lots of great info.

Although this same info is in other threads about exactly the same thing (often with quite similar titles).

think i'll look into some of those 13/14's. my concern is safety.

That's why i went with the Sapim 13/14's from Grin Tech http://ebikes.ca for my rear wheels on the SB Cruiser--it's gotta carry my weight, the trike's weight, cargo weight *and* a St Bernard with both normal AND side loads in radial 20" wheels, and the typical crappy spokes included in hubs would not survive that very long. (and/or the rims wouldn't; I've destroyed several rims trying to use those, pulling spokes thru them).

 

[209143]

I know i can always count on you to keep me straight amberwolf :wink: . sorry about creating so many different threads but still a noob to any forum, this is my first, but i def like it. But at your advice i created one last thread for my current project, my schwinn moab s. to keep it all in one place like you said.