Stay Away from Amped Bikes

[mrdarklight]

I cannot stress strongly enough how bad their customer service is.

I bought one of their bikes about a year and a half ago, installed it and everything was fine. However, I was out for a ride one day and one of the cheap connectors that he uses came partly loose and shorted out. Huge, nasty blue sparks and noise... I'm glad I wasn't touching it. Anyway, I proceeded to try to fix it, but the connector in question melted from the short circuit.

So I posted the question on his FAQ board, trying to find out which wire goes where. I have one red wire and two possible ways to wire it up. All I needed from him was to tell me how this connector was wired.

http://ampedbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1001

Well, apparently he doesn't even know how his own bikes are wired, because despite the fact that I sent him pictures and told him what color the wires were, he could not tell me where they went. I was kind of dumbfounded, but I assumed he had more than one supplier or something and there was more than one way to connect the bike up. He told me I had to disconnect everything on the bike, take pictures of every connector (despite the fact that there was only one connection I had any doubt about), and he would label all of the connectors and send the info back to me. Now mind you, this took a year to get this info out of him, and only after I complained that he was not responding to the thread.

Of course the problem is that one of the connectors is gone, it melted. So I need to know what two wires were connected to the melted connector, but he cannot tell me that. I went round and round with him in e-mail trying to get him to tell me, and in the end, his answer was this:

"This is taking up too much of my time. if you have a black controller you can just purchase a new one from our website. Make sure that in the paypal instruction to seller info that you would like the black older one."

Since he cannot tell me what wire connects to one connector, because he apparently doesn't even know, he wants me to buy another controller from him.

Anyway, just a warning to those of you who expect this company to be able to support their product... they can't. Or won't.

 

[LI-ghtcycle]

I understand your frustration, but if you sent me the same pics from the web site I wouldn't be able to tell you what's what either.

There are several generations of the Amped Bikes motors because they are constantly improving, there are 4 generations out there and I am sure they are working on the fith.

Maybe it should be more clearly posted on the Amped site that for technical support to email directly to Danny or Lisa, but I have to say, why if you had this problem for the better part of a year didn't you send them an email directly sooner, and it seems to me that he is willing to help, just that he wants more detailed pics so he can.

I have never known Danny to ignore or stiff anyone, but there has been the life threatening car crash just last month:

http://ampedbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1062&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

I was on the fwy driving up a high overpass in the fast lane. I was distracted by a phone call (yes I use Blue tooth through my cars speakers). I was distracted for just a split second and the next thing you know I was airborne at 70 +/- mph. My car was launched off of the side of an angled fwy barrier (ramp) I looked down at the 100' drop and my first thought was "whoa cool" my very next thought was this is going to hurt!

I think if you give him a chance, he will make it right, but I don't think he or anyone else has the wiring schematic for any of the generations of kits memorized. :wink:

Don't take this the wrong way, if you're not getting the support you need, we need to hear about it, but I believe if you give him a chance, he will make things right. I know of other instances where he has simply replaced a faulty item free of charge, but once something has gone on for a year, and he doesn't know anything about it until now, I don't think that's with-in the warranty.

Maybe you can post the same pictures and one of us can help you? I would agree that you need to un-wind them enough for the wires to be identified, I have a few Amped kits, when did you buy yours? Maybe I can identify this mystery wire for you.

 

[mrdarklight]

I gave him a chance, I sent him a long string of e-mails to try to work it out. The pics I sent him in the e-mails were different, and he did label them all, but that wasn't what I needed. In the end he just totally flaked on me.

Other companies have different versions, but I've never come across a company that, when asked a simple question about where two wires go, could not answer it.

 

[dogman dan]

No way to tell from the melted connector which wire originally connected to which? If you can tell, just cut the wires and twist the right two together with wire nuts.

Re post, with good pictures, in a thread asking for help from people with the same kit. They can send pics of how it originally worked. The right people will not see this thread since it's a bitch thread. You need an ask for help thread to get ther right guy to read it.

I have to agree though, that offering to sell you a new controller because the old one has a fried connector is a bit over the top. But if you have not communicated with him very nice, you could get that reaction. If this happend over the last month, he may be unable to concentrate like normal for awhile.

edit. Just back from reading the entire forum thread. It would help a lot, if you labeled all the existing good connectors, then unplug them, and take the controller off the bike. A good pic with everything spread out, and the stuff you know what it is labeled, will help a lot with figuring out what is left. From reading the pages, I sure can't tell if you are discussing an ebrake circuit or the throttle circuit, and niether can anybody else. With a good pic, somebody with the same controller may be able to easily tell you, it's such and such. If it's ebrakes, it could be as simple as connecting the yellow wire to the brown one. The wiring does sound wierd, and actually, given the improvements in controllers lately, a new one might not be such a bad idea. Just bought from somebody else.

 

[FMB42]

From what I understand, you have one black wire and 2 red wires (one thick, one thin) coming from the controller. The thick red wire connects to the pos. batt. terminal and the black wire to the neg. batt. terminal.

If the above is correct then the remaining wire connection(s) in question are for the thin red wire (coming from the controller) and, as depicted in your previous posts, the brown and yellow wire connector coming from the throttle.

Is this correct?

If so, you may want to consider studying the image located just above "Step 11" in the link below:

http://ampedbikes.com/installation.htm


This image may or, may not, clarify your connection questions.


Having said this, I would say that you may need to post actual pics of your controller, throttle, etc, (removed from the bike if necessary) so that the very knowledgeable people here can help you.

Just be advised that permanent damage to the controller and/or throttle may have already been done during the initial short circuit.

Hang in there, you'll get it!

 

[FMB42]

If the above is correct, then it appears that your wiring questions can be narrowed down to the constant battery feed "thin red wire connection (from the battery/controller connection) and the yellow/brown throttle connections.

This would seem to indicate that you need to know if the constant (thin red wire) connection goes to the yellow throttle connector wire or, if it goes to brown throt connector wire (coming from the throttle).

Is this correct?

If so, the image link above appears to indicate that the constant voltage "thin red" battery wire may possibly**** connect to the yellow throttle wire. This would, of course, also indicate**** that the brown throttle connector wire is the throttle control input to the controller. However, as you have mentioned, the image provided above may not be correct in regards to your older "black" controller.


****Please note that we, as yet, do not know for sure if this is correct. We're just trying to narrow you questions down at this point so as to make it easier for more knowledgeable ES members to aid you in your questions. In other words, I recommend that you DO NOT attempt to "test" the connections "as per the above" until you have more (verifiable) information on the subject.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Buried somewhere in the old posts of the technical section is a Fechter thread on "I bought a mystery controller, how do I determine which wire does what?"

Open the controller up, and take pics that show where each wire goes (or as many as their terminations can be seen), what the wire goes to provides a clue. The diameter of the wire provides a clue also.

What are the two possible places the mystery wire could go to? Once that is known, perhaps a test could be devised to determine a clear function of the wire.

 

[mrdarklight]

I have created a diagram that I hope explains what I need.

As you can see, there are three unknowns: Where to the blue and green wires go? I don't actually have blue and green wires, I am using the colors blue and green just to illustrate. It may be that only one of these is used. And where does the small red wire go? I think this goes to the battery also, but can't be sure.

Thanks for your input on this.

 

[dogman dan]

I'm starting to get things understood. What else is on the throttle besides the throttle? Any other switches? battery level indicator?

Most throttles nowdays have three wires, and four if they have battery level indicators. You have two plugs each with two wires. On one plug you have two wires that come from the controller. On the fried plug, one of those wires comes from the controller, and the other from the battery. The battery one is not needed, except to run the indicator. Take the other wire, from the controller and try it on one wire, and then the other. The correct one will make the motor run. If neither one does, the short could have damaged the throttle, but I doubt it damaged the controller.

The small red wire connects to the red side of the battery plug, as you can see in that pic. The other plug, is too fuzzy to really see what connects to what.

Hope this helps, you are in the right place now. It is pretty unbelievable they couldn't supply a schematic of the wiring. On my fusin kits, which have complex wiring, it really helps to have that. Not having it himself, he's as stuck as you are.

 

[FMB42]

I was able to enlarge the photo and would be willing to say that the constant (battery) voltage "thin red wire" appears to connect to the yellow wire coming from the throttle. I would also say that it appears that the brown throttle wire connects to the red wire leading into the controller. But then again, this is nothing more than "guestimate" and, as such, is not worth betting on (unless you enjoy the smell of "burnt money").

Further input from those who have this "older" style controller would, of course, be the best thing at this point.

BTW, this issue has driven me to draw up a simple wiring diagram for both of my hub motors systems.

 

[mrdarklight]

Also, one other bit of info: If I connect the small red wire to the battery, the throttle is always on. The on/off switch on the throttle does nothing.

The throttle has the throttle lever, an on/off switch and the battery level indicator. I don't believe there are any other wires going to the throttle, but would have to confirm at home tonight.

I am very much tempted to believe that the small red wire goes to either the yellow or brown wires, and then another wire goes from the remaining (brown or yellow) wire to the battery. But without confirmation, the acrid smell of burning circuitry haunts my dreams.

 

[mrdarklight]

Update: Someone on another site found a picture of the old controller. It shows the thin red wire going through a connector, which I'm certain is the connector for the brown and yellow wires.

Now the only question seems to be: Does the brown wire go to the battery and the yellow wire go to the controller, or is it the other way around? Or does it matter?

 

[dnmun]

i haven't seen the pictures he has, but the amped bike kit i have seen has a wire from the battery up to the switch on the handlebar, separate from the throttle, and the circuit current for the controller goes through that switch and then goes back into the controller through the small red wire. there is a small plug off the wiring harness that connects to the plug that goes up to the handlebar, so maybe post up some pictures of that and we can help.

 

[mrdarklight]

Incidentally, this is the throttle I have, which is combined with the on/off switch and the battery gauge.

 

[USAEBIKECO]

From my experience Amped Bikes makes pretty good systems. I use thier systems on new mountain bikes I convert for customers.

Their customer service is good too. However on their website they say a bike can be converted in 1 hour... that is totally not true and they should change it.

 

[mrdarklight]

From my experience Amped Bikes makes pretty good systems. I use thier systems on new mountain bikes I convert for customers.

Their customer service is good too. However on their website they say a bike can be converted in 1 hour... that is totally not true and they should change it.

Until I had this problem I would have agreed with you, but now... I am not enthusiastic about them.

I mean... how can they not know how their own kit is wired?

If you have any of their old black controllers around, I would be happy for your input though.

 

[E-Ticket]

My AmpedBike CONTROLLERS (black, late 2008/early 2009) used the following groups of cables/connectors:

1. MAIN POWER INPUT = large RED/large BLK/thin RED, rectangular/T-shaped, 3-wire connector

2. To handlebar pushbutton on/off switch = small inline (2 wire, rectangular) connector inline on thin RED wire (of POWER IN group)

3. To Hall Sensors = thin BLU/YEL/GRN/BLK/RED wires, rectangular connector with 5 of 6 positions filled

4. 2 x Brake Line Cutouts = thin YEL/BLK wires, rectangular connector with 2 of 3 positions filled

5. UNUSED = thin VIOLET, rectangular connector with 1 of 2 positions filled

6. UNUSED = thin WHITE, female bullet connector

7. THROTTLE & BATTERY INDICATOR = thin BLACK/RED/BLUE/PINK (rectangular connector)

8. SPEED SUPPRESSOR LOOP = thin WHITE & thin BLACK w/mating single-position black connectors

9. PHASE POWER = large GREEN/YELLOW/BLUE with individual bullet connectors

 

[mrdarklight]

Mine don't use that scheme. My throttle controller has only two wires - yellow and brown.

 

[dnmun]

wrong, that is not the throttle. that is the wire to the switch that turns the controller circuit current on and off. your throttle has three wires.

 

[icecube57]

Ive agree. Ive had that throttle.

 

[dogman dan]

My guess is that the wire goes to both the switch and the battery indicator. What I can't quite figure out is where is the wire to supply 5v to the throttle if there is only two other wires? Something in the throttle that supplies the 5v from the 36v feed?

Personally, if I had this problem, I'd ditch that controller and get a nice infineon from lyens or one of the other 9c suppliers. The less funny wiring on a bike the better.

 

[FMB42]

The yellow and brown wires may possibly be nothing more than the "on-off" switch to the controller. If so, the polarity of these yellow and brown wires may not not matter.

You may want to test the function of the yellow/brown wire connector with a a 12 volt continuity tester (you can buy a 12 volt "bulb" type continuity tester for ~ $5 at any automotive supply shop (you can make one yourself for even less).

The polarity of the yellow and brown wire will, most likely, not matter if, the continuity test proves that that they are indeed nothing more than the input/output leads of a simple "on-off" switch.

 

[FMB42]

You may want to consider the following at this point (or, better yet, consider dogman's advice...):

1. Test the function/relationship of the yellow and brown wires with an inexpensive omh/multi meter (Harbor Freight sells them for as low as $3.00). Proceed to "step 2" below if, the continuity test proves that these wires function as an "on-off" switch

2. Reverse the polarity of the yellow and brown wires and then repeat "step 1" above. Proceed to "step 3" below if the function remains the same regardless of the polarity of the yellow and brown wires.

3. Next test the connection under a 12 volt load by using a 12 v "light bulb" type voltage test light as a continuity tester.

3A. feed a 12 volt + power supply (i.e. battery) into either the yellow or brown wire and then connect the 12v test light between the remain yellow or brown wire and the negative side of the power supply.

4. Test the function of the yellow and brown wire by turning the system "on and off" with the "on/off" switch. Proceed to "step 5" below if the test proves that the yellow and brown wires are part of the "on/off" switch.

5. Reverse the yellow and brown wire connections and retest the "on/off" switch function as per "step 4" above.

If the function remains the same (regardless of the polarity) then, the polarity of the yellow and brown wires will, most likely, not matter.

 

[mrdarklight]

Now that I've had a chance to look at it, the brown and yellow wires are not the only ones going to the throttle. There are several others in another connector.

 

[FeralDog]

Until I had this problem I would have agreed with you, but now... I am not enthusiastic about them.
I mean... how can they not know how their own kit is wired?
If you have any of their old black controllers around, I would be happy for your input though.

I can sympathize with your plight! I mean... how can they not know how their own kit is wired?
The front DD kit I received from Amped last December (2009) was a joke.
After strictly following Amped's instructions (so as not to void warranty, per Amped's mandate) my motor ran backwards and the wheel was severely dished. I searched Amped's Forum and found another guy who had a similar problem, and he even posted a his own re-wire of the system to get the wheel to spin in the proper direction. The guy went to the trouble to re-wire the bikes Hall sensors and Phase wires and he never got an answer from Amped to his forum post .

It took me 8 emails (over 2 weeks) to the owner, and a stern threat of sending the kit back to even get the owner to respond. Over and over, the owner kept telling me it must be something "I" was doing wrong and how his kits are near perfect. Also, he kept lecturing me that he was wary of me being a "competitor" trying to "dis" him and that I should know how to fix this problem myself.
Since I paid with Paypal (with a credit card) I was just going to send the darn kit back when the owners wife sent me an email explanation.
She explained that, LOL , Amped had been sending out the wrong assembly instructions, and that the wheel needed to be reversed and Ha Ha wasn't that funny!
Yep, real funny :x .
They changed and corrected their web site "assembly instructions" without comment.

In short, the basic product isn't bad. It is the stubborn attitude of the owner that he can "do no wrong".
My controller is the "newer" aluminum colored casing and my throttle has (the Dec 2009) "cruise control" . I can post my wiring pics if you think I can help you.