spektrolyte said:
Wow, what a smarmy and unpleasant response. ...
you replied to my first draft of the above post, before I changed the wording by removing the one line which could be seen as inflammatory.
I saw the original and I replied. I thought it was actually fairly polite given the tone of your post.
I really don't feel comfortable about sending YOU any money after this reply.
At the risk of being accused of not playing nice, it was YOU that came in criticizing pretty much every aspect of the bike's design and then bluntly declared it was overpriced and you wouldn't buy one - that was pretty decisive post before I'd said a word. I apologise if you are genuinely interested, and didnt realise you were the same person who'd messaged me on FB. I thought you were just trolling and looking for a fight. We've had a few of those drop by... I guess you realised afterwards that it perhaps came across more inflammatory than you'd intended?
Anyway you're new here so lets leave it, but for future reference there's no such thing as first drafts - once you write a post and hit submit that's it - it's there for eternity. If someone is online at the same time as you they will just see what you first posted. If someone comes along and reads it later after you've edited it they'll see the updated version but the original is always there for anyone to see if they click back through the history. It's made for some amusing reading over the years when people post drunk :lol:
spektrolyte said:
The point is you can't get forks in 1 1/8" straight very easily any more, unless you go for some cheap Chinese crap
This is the exact reason I had the DNM USD-6s custom made for these frames. Plus you can still run most triple clamp forks that have a straight steerer.
I have been looking at the 1500w motors available and can't find any with a 135 axle spacing apart from the H40s or a custom MXUS - both of which are a bit heavy for my needs
What spacing are they ?? Surely almost every 1500w motor on the market would be 135mm spacing. If you don't want the H40 the H35 will fit, or the leaf equivalents. All of the 9C clones out there are 135mm spacing.
The steel MTB frames coming out since around 2013 have mostly featured tapered steerer tubes and this IS going to be the standard from here on in...
I'd like tapered steerers too, but the factory already has the jigs made and use them for all their other bikes with straight steerers so this is why I said it'll be a very long time before any changes are made. If anything I think there's a chance of a revised swing arm first.
I have also been trying to get answers from you via Facebook about the geometry and you haven't bothered to get back to me with any measurements so far
Sorry I've been away this weekend and I don't have any of that information from the factory. They're not details they provide. All I can tell you in terms of top tube length that in a straight line from the centre of the steerer to the centre of the seat post is 61cm. With a long seat post they'll accommodate a pretty tall rider. How tall are you again Kepler ? 6'2" ? Kepler also posted a good picture comparing the geometry to an XC bike earlier on in this thread if you scroll back.
have you ever heard of a stock clearance sale to make room for new products?
I guess at some stage there'll be a V2 but I dont call the shots on any of this stuff and now that stealth are busy with the new P7 model I suspect they'll be focusing on that for a while. Materials are bought in bulk so ALOT of bikes will have to go before any changes are made. I have zero idea about time lines but if I had to guess I'd say it wouldn't be this year.
I would consider buying it if there was the chance of an updated swingarm sometime in the future
I've been pushing for swing arm revisions since the first batch! As above I dont control this but if I did I'd be making them a little wider and with horizontal pinch dropouts. I dont think the concentric bottom bracket mount will be changed and if there is a V2 swing arm I imagine all else would be kept the same so they're compatible.
I am a sport MTB rider and want to race this thing in the electric class as it will piss all over the Haibike and other similar offerings. As such I'm interested in its handling, weight distribution and general serviceability. Most of the guys on here seem to be engineering geeks rather than hardcore riders. Thats cool, but if you make a product like this you can expect it to attract attention from people who want to push its limits.
For sure the amount of power you could put through this would hose a haibike, but are they not power categories or classes to separate this ? Or is it still early days enough that it's ebikes vs legs and anything goes ? If you're really serious about racing other mtbs like that pretty much any hub motor is going to be a disadvantage. The nearest one I'd recommend would be the new Grin hub motor, but I'm not sure they have a rear version yet. That's the lightest hub motor you can get. Failing that the difference between a "1500w" motor and a stamped stator H40 is trivial and in a race setting with ferrofluid and hub sinks I'd be putting my money on a H40 bursting 7kw odd. But if you're a somewhat serious/skilled mtb racer don't use a hub - use a mid drive. It's not a great ambassador for ebikes but if you're not worried about the noise a cyclone or tangent would give you the best power:weight and you could keep the bike light buy having a small backpack mounted battery.
The last line in your signature says it all - "My bike is writing cheques my body can't cash" - so why not consider some helpful hints from people who have been racing offroad bikes for years?
It's more a joke, poking fun at my own health issues. But everyone sharing hints and tips is what ES is all about!
Allex said:
So while you wait for that perfect frame a few years (if it ever comes), go for something now so you can start riding. I went this path because there is simply no other choice out there.
This is exactly what I meant when I said the joke is on anyone who says they're going to hang out for the perfect ebike. I messed around for years playing with different frame designs, wanting to build my own perfect ebike. Then I got crook and as soon as I was on my feet again bought a stealth fighter, because life is short and even if the perfect ebike is only 2 years away, that's 2 years of riding I've had in the mean time. I'm biased but I reckon the beta is as close to the perfect all rounder as you can get.
