Tats said:
If you get creative, you can do what me and icherouveim did:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88373&start=25
20S9P is pretty awesome and worth the effort IMO.
Cheers
Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics
- Thread starter Hyena
- Start date
If you get creative, you can do what me and icherouveim did:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88373&start=25
20S9P is pretty awesome and worth the effort IMO.
Cheers
Tats
1 kW
I’m tossing up getting a beta vs p7-r or f-37. This will be used as my commuter so I think the f would be impractical with the schlumpf two gears and draw attention with no rear cassette if the boys in blue take an interest. So that leaves p7-r with the geared rear plus the long range battery as the benchmark. A geared hub with 1500w would be plenty torquey for my needs.
The beta build could be done two ways:- new parts and sell my demo ii ebike I built, or swap and sell the demo as a human powered machine.
Swapping parts: The demo is hs3540 with statorade/hubsinkd, cav3 and phaserunner with em3ev 14s7p in pannier on a Thule tour rack. So it goes nice, has regen but is not a nice handling bike with so much weight in all the wrong places. The issue would be the battery won’t fit so I’d need to sort that out. The fork steerer would need sorting too and parts are worn etc.
New: I’d be interested in a neat build maybe using grins tdcm igh to avoid derailleur, phaserunner and cav3.
The cheapest is swapping of course but it’d still be a heavy rear. And I’d need to source a battery.
Decisions decisions...
The beta build could be done two ways:- new parts and sell my demo ii ebike I built, or swap and sell the demo as a human powered machine.
Swapping parts: The demo is hs3540 with statorade/hubsinkd, cav3 and phaserunner with em3ev 14s7p in pannier on a Thule tour rack. So it goes nice, has regen but is not a nice handling bike with so much weight in all the wrong places. The issue would be the battery won’t fit so I’d need to sort that out. The fork steerer would need sorting too and parts are worn etc.
New: I’d be interested in a neat build maybe using grins tdcm igh to avoid derailleur, phaserunner and cav3.
The cheapest is swapping of course but it’d still be a heavy rear. And I’d need to source a battery.
Decisions decisions...
cheeko
100 W
Ham said:
I'm sure they ship one too you at cost.
fritzebike
10 µW
- Joined
- May 19, 2015
- Messages
- 6
Hey all, Fritz here in the U.S. I was on ES when the original Alpha frames were released and completed my build 3kw 72V using 5 20aH lipo hobby king packs in series. I have since sold the packs and lived overseas (Singapore) for a few years. I am now back in the US and want to get my bike going again and am looking for batteries. A few years have passed now, and i wanted to ask what is the best/safest battery to put in the futr alpha? I was paranoid about the lipo packs, since my BMS never balanced the cells and I had to do it manually. Is there anything on the market ready to install BMS and all that fits the space? I am not interested in building one from scratch using 18650s since i dont have all of the required tools. If someone on here is able to build a battery that has been working for them, i would be interested as well! Thanks everyone!
-Fritz
-Fritz
Attachments
millzy555
100 W
I too am building up an Alpha and looking for battery options. Other than custom are there any off the shelf batteries than slot in?. All the ones on aliexpress seem too big for the 330 x 118x 163 frame compartment.
cheeko
100 W
fritzebike said:
Hi Mate nice bike, just looking at the wiring on the crank you might need to reroute that as i can see it will short on the frame maybe cause a fire.
Nice looking bike well done
millzy555
100 W
Those with FUTR frames, is the seatpost stem Diameter 34.9mm and clamp 36.4mm (hard to find)
Rix
100 TW
millzy555 said:
Sounds a little big, I can confirm tonight. Thinking is the seat post is around the 31mm mark and clamp would be 34ish. Let me measure tonight.
millzy555
100 W
Rix said:
Cheers, i did a bit more reading, pretty sure it a 31.6mm stem, 34.9mm clamp
Rix
100 TW
millzy555 said:
That is correct.
Allex
100 MW
What headset do you guys use for a tapered fork with these frames?
Perhaps Futr will make tapered style frames?
Perhaps Futr will make tapered style frames?
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
The P7R frames come with a tapered head tube, 1 1/8" to 1 1/2". I imagine for the sake of uniformity, we will see tapered head tubes on the FUTR line down the road.
Tats
1 kW
Motor options for Alpha frame - has anyone installed any of the smaller 137mm motors in the rear dropouts - HS3540 or GMAC?
I bought the P7r, love it for the handling, and now for a project am thinking of swapped my old parts into a new frame-this includes the em3ev 14s7p battery that won’t fit in a beta?
I bought the P7r, love it for the handling, and now for a project am thinking of swapped my old parts into a new frame-this includes the em3ev 14s7p battery that won’t fit in a beta?
Rix
100 TW
The axle on my Mac 10 is about 220mm over all lenght. thats more than enough threads on each side of the swingarm. You will need to invest in some axle spacers to get the GMAC centered where you want it.Tats said:
Tats
1 kW
Thanks Rix - order in for a gun metal alpha.
Parts I have are:
Fsa bb and single crankset
Boxxer WC with straight steerer, cut quite short (possible fit)
Sram clutched derailleur
Pedals seat bars stem chain
Hs3540 with 7speed in a 26 rim
14s7p Samsung 33g em3ev battery
Phaserunner
26 inch wheels
Cav3 with pas ring, tripwire brake sensors, pot, 3-way switch
Fox dhx4 shock/spring
Old buggered avid code brakes that need upgrading
Not sure if seat post and clamp will fit
So first thing will be to check if my steerer is too short and if so to choose another fork - as this is intended to be mostly a soft comfy pavement bike I may go single crown like the p7r durolux. And if that’s the case 27.5 wheels upgrade is next.
If fitting the hs3540 is not working out I’ll probably go for a GMAC. Although I do like the silence of the DD.
Either way, I’ll start a build thread, but this will probably take me a while.
Parts I have are:
Fsa bb and single crankset
Boxxer WC with straight steerer, cut quite short (possible fit)
Sram clutched derailleur
Pedals seat bars stem chain
Hs3540 with 7speed in a 26 rim
14s7p Samsung 33g em3ev battery
Phaserunner
26 inch wheels
Cav3 with pas ring, tripwire brake sensors, pot, 3-way switch
Fox dhx4 shock/spring
Old buggered avid code brakes that need upgrading
Not sure if seat post and clamp will fit
So first thing will be to check if my steerer is too short and if so to choose another fork - as this is intended to be mostly a soft comfy pavement bike I may go single crown like the p7r durolux. And if that’s the case 27.5 wheels upgrade is next.
If fitting the hs3540 is not working out I’ll probably go for a GMAC. Although I do like the silence of the DD.
Either way, I’ll start a build thread, but this will probably take me a while.
Tats
1 kW
Now I’ve ordered the Alpha, the stoopid questions will start - apologies folks.
Front fork head tube on the p7 is 165mm by the looks of it, but I can get a new steerer on my boxxer locally for 150AUD so that makes things a lot easier.
The battery space will allow the phaserunner to fit in there too using the frame as a heatsink.
So, the two questions are:
1. Given the hs3540 has clearance in the 150mm dropouts, will I be able to change from a 7 speed dnp freewheel to a 9 speed, filling some of the gaps and potentially improving chain line?
2. Bb7 cable brakes would mean nicely concealed cables - are these too underpowered? Current brakes are very old avid elixir cr. I’ll be using 14s 8a regen as this is what the BMS supports in my battery.
Front fork head tube on the p7 is 165mm by the looks of it, but I can get a new steerer on my boxxer locally for 150AUD so that makes things a lot easier.
The battery space will allow the phaserunner to fit in there too using the frame as a heatsink.
So, the two questions are:
1. Given the hs3540 has clearance in the 150mm dropouts, will I be able to change from a 7 speed dnp freewheel to a 9 speed, filling some of the gaps and potentially improving chain line?
2. Bb7 cable brakes would mean nicely concealed cables - are these too underpowered? Current brakes are very old avid elixir cr. I’ll be using 14s 8a regen as this is what the BMS supports in my battery.
Rix
100 TW
Tats said:
Back on page 38 in this thread, you can see I ran the BB7. The rear was with a 200m rotor, the front was with a 225mm rotor. They worked great, but I was running smaller wheels, 19x1.40 rim on the rear and a 24"MTB up front with a 3" tire with an OD of 25.2 inches.
Tats
1 kW
Thanks again Rix.
Been stripping my old bike and have a few bits n bobs coming for things that don’t fit. Frame is in the post and the fork crown is off to get a new steerer. It’ll be a straight 1 1/8th so a bit confused as to the headset I need to get.
Been stripping my old bike and have a few bits n bobs coming for things that don’t fit. Frame is in the post and the fork crown is off to get a new steerer. It’ll be a straight 1 1/8th so a bit confused as to the headset I need to get.
Tats
1 kW
Box full of futr alpha arrived today. So I’ve been looking at how the bits will fit inside the frame - and it’s almost as tho the frame was built to fit the em3ev 14s7p battery. The upper part of the frame is folded just below the side panel rivnuts. The folds on either side are a parallel 78.8mm width apart. The battery is 79.0 mm. Removing the powder coat brings the gap to 78.9mm and sanding the acrylic sides of the battery allows it to fit perfectly in the gap, securing the battery nicely if an inch higher than perfect - however this now leaves a gap under the battery allowing the phaserunner to fit and be screwed to the frame using it as a very big heatsink with about a 1cm air gap to the battery case. If this is insufficient the PR could be mounted outside, but I think it’d be neater inside. Any thoughts on how to limit heat transfer to the battery case, or warnings the 1cm air gap is inadequate?
Tats
1 kW
Build coming along slowly - boxxer steerer has been replace sand headset installed. Alpha I have didn’t take the FSA big fat pig, so my LBS used parts from three headsets to make one - and charged very very little too. Support your LBS as you never know when you’ll need them.
I’ve found a dnp 9 speed freewheel and will be using a clutched sram gx 10spd with an archer components d1x rear derailleur shifter thingy. These are all in the post along with new magura mt trail sport brakes and HC rotors. I’ve also found some new old stock holzfeller 165 mm cranks and howitzer bb and plan on a 50t single chainring.
I’ve found a dnp 9 speed freewheel and will be using a clutched sram gx 10spd with an archer components d1x rear derailleur shifter thingy. These are all in the post along with new magura mt trail sport brakes and HC rotors. I’ve also found some new old stock holzfeller 165 mm cranks and howitzer bb and plan on a 50t single chainring.
Rix
100 TW
Tats said:
Thats going to be a great build, is that a phase runner I see in there?
Rix
100 TW
Never mind, I read the rest of your post and it is a phaserunner.Rix said:
Tats
1 kW
Been busy - here’s where I am so far….
Em3ev battery fits in but needs access to the BMS switch. Solution, use a kayak/drain plug in the side panel, remove the bung and finger hits the switch perfectly.
Howitzer bb from seller in Ukraine with holzfeller cranks from Canada, magura storm hc rotors from Netherlands, magura mt trail due to arrive in post today from Germany. Boxxer steerer replaced, serviced and new 2010 World Cup stickers from Hungary.
50t 104bcd with dnp 7 speed and archer components dx1 and a sram gx 10 speed clutched derailleur. This is a pavement cruiser build No gear cabling through the frame going this way.
Dnm burner rc2 in for now as the fox dhx rc4 is just too stiff with a 550lbs spring.
Things to do - fit brakes and tripwires. Tidy up wiring, torque everything and try her out.
Em3ev battery fits in but needs access to the BMS switch. Solution, use a kayak/drain plug in the side panel, remove the bung and finger hits the switch perfectly.
Howitzer bb from seller in Ukraine with holzfeller cranks from Canada, magura storm hc rotors from Netherlands, magura mt trail due to arrive in post today from Germany. Boxxer steerer replaced, serviced and new 2010 World Cup stickers from Hungary.
50t 104bcd with dnp 7 speed and archer components dx1 and a sram gx 10 speed clutched derailleur. This is a pavement cruiser build No gear cabling through the frame going this way.
Dnm burner rc2 in for now as the fox dhx rc4 is just too stiff with a 550lbs spring.
Things to do - fit brakes and tripwires. Tidy up wiring, torque everything and try her out.