Hi !
My name is Stig living in Norway fixing and building some e-bike projects as a hobby.
For about a year ago i came across a TDCM motor for sale, and with this motor i got a Stromer ST1 on the deal.
And i struggled findin info and getting help anywhere as there are no Stromer dealer og worksshop in Norway.
As i have bought and sold a few bikes i used this one for some parts and did’nt know quite how i would go about rebuilding my first Stromer.
But no the time has come to do the frame right and build this bike back up not restrictet by Stromer
This one i had for a few months and the quality of the build it selfe impresses
With the TDCM P48 500w hub motor and TMM sensor it is a smooth and nice ride on a daily base.
As i now have the bike in parts, the motor has to be laced of on one side and a bit of hazzel to take apart.
And it reveals the Stromer controller inside, with the origanl conetctors
After removing the controller its time to rewireing the hall sensors, phase wires and temp
Are planing to use parts i have and not go over the top in anyway. I started with fiting a battery bag, lined with a alu list and screwd to the frame.
Then mecsure what kind of battery it will fit
As i had a nearley new ST1X battery with bms failure and a new ST1 battery i got for fixing one. They contain 78 and 50 top of the lind Sanyo 3500mah cells
With 128cells and the space i will go for a 14s9s battry, 52v31,5ah it should run for miles
The space inside the frame i will use for all other electronic, planing to use a Crystalyte controller that can give 40A
And conecting this to a Cycle Analyst v3
As there was some issues with the frame, like the key lock for the battery door was broken. Charging gate had some issues and after trying to use the options the frame has. I found after removing the push button to open battery door, that it fit the key lock for on/of that came eith the bag
.
And using a normal xlr 3 pin conector for charging
On the other side i want a sipmle on/off for the cobtroller.
Will lock the battery door with a bolt from under, make use of one thats allready there.
Now i got a frame with a tmm sensor buildt in i the backdrop of the bike
The values it should read i found online
As main light i go for this lamp, sold on Grin and can connect directly to the CA.
A new day, and i have installed a new headset and got det fork back on. The ST1 came with a carbon fork, it was a suprice to me :)
Starting to line up parts that are going on this build, and as i’m 192cm tall i need a higer seat post.
BBB skyscraper 31,6x400mm with a Fizik Tundra M3 seat
My favorit handle bar i going on this bike to, Surly Sunrise 820mm. Using a Supernova multimount stem and a B&m cyclestar mirror.
Now the part thats fun, maybe not always but setting the bike back togethar and see if the plan work
To tighten the key lock i simply drilled a hole and treaded it with M4, the charger port had to modify a bit but screwd in place.
In the place where the original key lock was placed, a whaser fit perfect, just using a file ro fit the switch inside and use glu to get it to stick in place
Yesterday and today has mostley been solidering and wirering, have used the 5 pin conector as Hallsensor signals ( to display orgianaly), the 3 pin as temp signal (TMM sensor signal originaly) and used XT150 conectors for phasewires
Finished up fiting lock, charger port and on/off swith to controller. Just took the switch on the controller replaced that with a conector and just a exstension to the frame
A bit of luck and i came across a damage bike that i could pick up for spare parts, so now i’m going for 9s Sram XO gearshifter with carbon details. And Formula R1 breaks
As i struggle a bit on how to solve the issue that CA has a 10v out to pas and torque sensors, i opened the CA and after talking to another bike builder i will pick up the 5v and skip 10v as my tmm and pas both run on 5v
As i have been waiting for the Hallsensors to arrive the motor has just been sitting in a corner halfway wired. Got a message today saying the sensors will arrive on wedensday, and thougt i would make the motor ready.
I used 10awg phase cables and orignal conectors, and it just wouldent fit out thru the axl gap. Going thru the options, i found a leftover bit of Grin L10 cable with 3x12awg and 7x24awg.
Grin cable
My name is Stig living in Norway fixing and building some e-bike projects as a hobby.
For about a year ago i came across a TDCM motor for sale, and with this motor i got a Stromer ST1 on the deal.
And i struggled findin info and getting help anywhere as there are no Stromer dealer og worksshop in Norway.
As i have bought and sold a few bikes i used this one for some parts and did’nt know quite how i would go about rebuilding my first Stromer.
But no the time has come to do the frame right and build this bike back up not restrictet by Stromer
This one i had for a few months and the quality of the build it selfe impresses
With the TDCM P48 500w hub motor and TMM sensor it is a smooth and nice ride on a daily base.
As i now have the bike in parts, the motor has to be laced of on one side and a bit of hazzel to take apart.
And it reveals the Stromer controller inside, with the origanl conetctors
After removing the controller its time to rewireing the hall sensors, phase wires and temp
Are planing to use parts i have and not go over the top in anyway. I started with fiting a battery bag, lined with a alu list and screwd to the frame.
Then mecsure what kind of battery it will fit
As i had a nearley new ST1X battery with bms failure and a new ST1 battery i got for fixing one. They contain 78 and 50 top of the lind Sanyo 3500mah cells
With 128cells and the space i will go for a 14s9s battry, 52v31,5ah it should run for miles
The space inside the frame i will use for all other electronic, planing to use a Crystalyte controller that can give 40A
And conecting this to a Cycle Analyst v3
As there was some issues with the frame, like the key lock for the battery door was broken. Charging gate had some issues and after trying to use the options the frame has. I found after removing the push button to open battery door, that it fit the key lock for on/of that came eith the bag
.
And using a normal xlr 3 pin conector for charging
On the other side i want a sipmle on/off for the cobtroller.
Will lock the battery door with a bolt from under, make use of one thats allready there.
Now i got a frame with a tmm sensor buildt in i the backdrop of the bike
The values it should read i found online
As main light i go for this lamp, sold on Grin and can connect directly to the CA.
A new day, and i have installed a new headset and got det fork back on. The ST1 came with a carbon fork, it was a suprice to me :)
Starting to line up parts that are going on this build, and as i’m 192cm tall i need a higer seat post.
BBB skyscraper 31,6x400mm with a Fizik Tundra M3 seat
My favorit handle bar i going on this bike to, Surly Sunrise 820mm. Using a Supernova multimount stem and a B&m cyclestar mirror.
Now the part thats fun, maybe not always but setting the bike back togethar and see if the plan work
To tighten the key lock i simply drilled a hole and treaded it with M4, the charger port had to modify a bit but screwd in place.
In the place where the original key lock was placed, a whaser fit perfect, just using a file ro fit the switch inside and use glu to get it to stick in place
Yesterday and today has mostley been solidering and wirering, have used the 5 pin conector as Hallsensor signals ( to display orgianaly), the 3 pin as temp signal (TMM sensor signal originaly) and used XT150 conectors for phasewires
Finished up fiting lock, charger port and on/off swith to controller. Just took the switch on the controller replaced that with a conector and just a exstension to the frame
A bit of luck and i came across a damage bike that i could pick up for spare parts, so now i’m going for 9s Sram XO gearshifter with carbon details. And Formula R1 breaks
As i struggle a bit on how to solve the issue that CA has a 10v out to pas and torque sensors, i opened the CA and after talking to another bike builder i will pick up the 5v and skip 10v as my tmm and pas both run on 5v
As i have been waiting for the Hallsensors to arrive the motor has just been sitting in a corner halfway wired. Got a message today saying the sensors will arrive on wedensday, and thougt i would make the motor ready.
I used 10awg phase cables and orignal conectors, and it just wouldent fit out thru the axl gap. Going thru the options, i found a leftover bit of Grin L10 cable with 3x12awg and 7x24awg.
Grin cable