Stubborn freewheel

[ebike11]

Hi guys
Would anyone have some endless sphere tips on how to remove a single freewheel? its on my mxus 3000.
The freewheel has very low miles on it so i was wanting to reuse it since i paid $50 for it. Its a Shimano MX30
I have the park tool, with the 4 notches, but wont come off with an adjustable or breaker bar. I went to the local shop here and a mechanic tried a portable impact gun on it but the thing doesnt want to turn. Might have to give up on it but will try a little further.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[markz]

Try some penetrating oil down inside and spray behind the gears also. Let it sit overnight, and keep spraying it, then put your fw removal tool on there and turn counterclockwise.

 

[furcifer]

That style is the worst in terms of contact area.

The best way to get them off is to put the tool in a vice, then use your weight to seat it and the wheel as leverage to turn it (think of throwing your belly over the steering wheel of a bus and driving)

Keep your weight over it and maintain constant pressure, you'l feel the spokes stretch as you turn it.

60% of the time it works every time

(jk, it's always worked for me)

 

[ebike11]

That style is the worst in terms of contact area.

The best way to get them off is to put the tool in a vice, then use your weight to seat it and the wheel as leverage to turn it (think of throwing your belly over the steering wheel of a bus and driving)

Keep your weight over it and maintain constant pressure, you'l feel the spokes stretch as you turn it.

60% of the time it works every time

(jk, it's always worked for me)

I wish i could but im in the city and there isnt a vice to be seen. I miss home depot

 

[furcifer]

I wish i could but im in the city and there isnt a vice to be seen. I miss home depot

I would strongly suggest you find one. Any shop should have one and should let you in to use the vise for a couple seconds.

It's by hands down the best way and it works. I'm surprised the impact didn't do it, but it must have been weak and holding the wheel loses a bit of power. The opposite, fixing the tool and turning the wheel, works 100%. (unless you strip it)

 

[furcifer]

fyi- you don't need a vise. If you can find somewhere to jam the tool and use the same method it should work.

 

[Voltron]

Put the axle nut back on finger tight after putting the freewheel tool on.... It will hold the teeth in nice and tight for the initial cracking loose. Then your have to remove it before spinning the freewheel off. Using two people to spin the wheel after the tool is in the vice is lots easier than one.

 

[brumbrum]

If you do manage to remove it..... Lesson to be learnt,, make sure you always apply grease to the threads on the motor and freewheel before Re-installing.

Another tip.. Try heating up the general area with a blow torch before attempting removal. This is what a car mechanic would do with a stubborn nut n bolt.

 

[MadRhino]

Gunk usually does it.

If nothing works, open/destroy the freewheel, then heat and unscrew with a pipe wrench.

Ps. No workshop is fully functional without a vise

 

[aroundqube]

You need more leverage. As in, slide a long pipe over the breaker bar. Slow steady applied force, so the tool does not tilt and slip.

 

[E-HP]

spray some of this on it and wait a day or so and try again.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-16-PB/205178591

the heating idea makes sense too. if the case is aluminum, then icing the freewheel could work (maybe i have it backwards, but i think you heat the aluminum part and cool the steel when it's the two together?).

 

[ebike11]

If you do manage to remove it..... Lesson to be learnt,, make sure you always apply grease to the threads on the motor and freewheel before Re-installing.

Another tip.. Try heating up the general area with a blow torch before attempting removal. This is what a car mechanic would do with a stubborn nut n bolt.

Ah i did apply some thick chain lube before installing over the threads. I dont know why its on so tight. Its not that old or anything. Could it be chain force tightening things as time goes by?

 

[furcifer]

Ah i did apply some thick chain lube before installing over the threads. I dont know why its on so tight. Its not that old or anything. Could it be chain force tightening things as time goes by?

It's a large, shallow thread that gets a couple hundred ft/lbs of torque applied daily. They tend to be pretty tight. Bottom brackets can be a pain, but usually because the position collects water and rusts. Sprockets tend to be pretty wet, usually anyone that rides more than once a year amply lubricates the drive.

Heat works but you have to go through the bearing to get it to the threads, there isn't much room between the sprocket and the hub.

Take it to a bike shop and ask them to remove it. They'll probably do it for free, with the caveat that if the wheel breaks you're sol. Turning the wheel with the tool in the vise is enough torque to fold the wheel. Not often but I've seen it happen.

 

[ebike11]

Ah i did apply some thick chain lube before installing over the threads. I dont know why its on so tight. Its not that old or anything. Could it be chain force tightening things as time goes by?

It's a large, shallow thread that gets a couple hundred ft/lbs of torque applied daily. They tend to be pretty tight. Bottom brackets can be a pain, but usually because the position collects water and rusts. Sprockets tend to be pretty wet, usually anyone that rides more than once a year amply lubricates the drive.

Heat works but you have to go through the bearing to get it to the threads, there isn't much room between the sprocket and the hub.

Take it to a bike shop and ask them to remove it. They'll probably do it for free, with the caveat that if the wheel breaks your sol. Turning the wheel with the tool in the vise is enough torque to fold the wheel. Not often but I've seen it happen.

Thx for the info!