recumpence wrote:Hmm, I bet I will have my wife's Revive running first.
StudEbiker said:Okay, so my drawing skillz suck. No need to tell me, trust me I know. Hopefully though this diagram will be enough to explain what I'm doing and maybe get a few questions answered. When I first drew this diagram I was thinking of using a 5/8" jackshaft, but I have since gone to a 1/2", not that it makes much difference for my questions. Here are my questions:
1.) If you look at an earlier picture in this build, you will see the cardboard mock up of how the plate will be mounted on the frame. I am planning on putting three bolts through the frame and the plates to hold the plates in position. I am wondering what thickness metal (and what type of metal) I will need to keep the plates from flexing. The bottom of the plates will be support crosswise by three bolts to add support and reduce flex as well. Can I use aluminum, or is steel the better option? The size of the plates are 10"x7". Is 1/8" enough? Steel or aluminum?
2.) I am using a 1/2" freewheel adapter for the 16t freewheel. The FW adapter has two set screws. One of those is for screwing into the key way to keep it from spinning on the shaft. I am a little unsure of what to do with the other one. Do I put a hole in the shaft a little larger than the setscrew to keep the adapter from moving laterally on the shaft? Does this take the place of a collar lock in this application?
3.) Speaking of collar locks, what about the motor side of the mount. Is the compression of the jackshaft in the bearing enough to keep the shaft from moving, or will I need to put a collar lock on the end?
I guess that's all my questions for now. I'll probably think of some more later though. Thanks.
dontsendbubbamail wrote:1. I would use a composit of 1/2" plywood and 1/8" Al. If you don't want to use wood then 3/8" Al is the thinest I would go.
2. Use all the setscrews that they give you and divit the shaft. The FW adapter can act as a locking collar. If the spacing between the FW adapter and the bearing on the mounting plate is more then about 1/16" use washers to close the gap.
3. You need another locking collar on the outside of the other end of the shaft. I am assuming you are using flanged bearings inserted from the outside side of the mounting plate. What you don't want is a locking collar pushing on a bearing in a direction that will pop it out of the mounting plate.
Bubba
StudEbiker said:dontsendbubbamail said:1. I would use a composit of 1/2" plywood and 1/8" Al. If you don't want to use wood then 3/8" Al is the thinest I would go.
2. Use all the setscrews that they give you and divit the shaft. The FW adapter can act as a locking collar. If the spacing between the FW adapter and the bearing on the mounting plate is more then about 1/16" use washers to close the gap.
3. You need another locking collar on the outside of the other end of the shaft. I am assuming you are using flanged bearings inserted from the outside side of the mounting plate. What you don't want is a locking collar pushing on a bearing in a direction that will pop it out of the mounting plate.
Bubba
Thank you for answering. Okay, that's pretty much in line with what I was thinking. I am going to use a flanged bearing on the plate closest to the freewheel adapter, but on the other end I thought one of these might work so I won't have a big collar lock sticking out (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170522154711&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT). Wow, 3/8" AL seems really thick. What if I went with steel?