Allex
100 MW
Rix said:
What about:
804 / 805 Adventure Trail
705 Trail Master - this one looks like a better road tire?
255 Trail Pro
Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
What about:
804 / 805 Adventure Trail
705 Trail Master - this one looks like a better road tire?
255 Trail Pro
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
All of these tires in the 19" rims sizes are WAY TOO BIG for the SurRon 19x1.40 rims. These size tires need a 19x1.85" wide rim at the minimum. The 804 trailmaster is the smallest at 100/90-19 and 4 ply, probably weighs 10 pounds. The 255 trail pro is basically a large version of the Shinko SR241 series. Stick with the 2.75-19 SR244 or 241 for the SurRon stock rims.
Ttwinsupra
1 mW
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Ummmmmmm... green wire mod no more??? Soooo i just received my 2020 surron and im a little confused.... so i took it out on its maden voyage and it was quicker than i expected and topped out at exactly 50kph u could tell it has more to give but just stops at 50kph so i decided to do the green wire mod, i looked up the vid and looked at forum, the first weird thing is there was no loop at all it was just a straight wire so it had me 2nd guessing right off the bat, but i cut it anyway since the luna website still says it ships limited aaaannnd now, cut, its exactly the same stops exactly at 50kph and actually feels sliiightly qucker with it put back together but honestly its about exactly the same acceleration and top speed weather i have it cut or connected... ive done a few runs with them both and its really hard to tell any difference at all if there is any at all... but for sure limited to 50kph either way... also there is no difference in coasting between ev mode and sport mode i thought that ev mode didn't use regen? But honestly they both feel pretty coasty.... like im not sure if the regen is working at all...
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where did you get the bike, since your using metric units I'm guessing it's not from luna??
Ttwinsupra
1 mW
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efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
Its from luna im just going by the screen. I emailed them but haven't gotten a reply yet im just seeing if anyone else here who sees this is expecting this or knows whats goin on at all.
Shouldn't the top speed be faster than exactly 50kph at any angle or is that normal?
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exactly what did you cut or connect, pics??.. 30mph top speed derestricted doesn't sound normal for off-road version.. (how much do you weigh?)
Ttwinsupra
1 mW
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Im a husky dude, but im pretty positive its limited i mean it totally rips up to 50km, im super happy with the acceleration but the second it hits 50km its just stops... exactly at 50 every time even steep downhill it just totally backs out all power.
I cut the only green wire in my harness, its the middle wire in the back row facing the breaker.
I cut the only green wire in my harness, its the middle wire in the back row facing the breaker.
X-Nitro
10 W
The breaker is in front of the battery on the bike, so middle wire front row of batt plug (only green wire)? No that's not the right wire, the valet circuit wire is green with black stripe (on my 2018) & not connected to the plug at all but usually tucked back inside the plastic sheathing.Ttwinsupra said:
Rix
100 TW
Ttwinsupra said:
Its a green and black wire, and its under the heat shrink tubing, you have to cut a way a little of the tubing to see it, then, pull it out and there will be enough to cut. I am probably "huskier" than you, at 5'10" 250 with riding gear and my SurRon revs out to 80km/h indicated no problem with quick acceleration.
Ttwinsupra
1 mW
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X-Nitro said:
Oh man ya if the wire doesn't actually go to the plug then must have been wrong. My wires are totally different colors, i cut the plastic sheathing waay back and didn't see any other green wires or loops or exra wire, maybe is even deeper, but i seriously cut about 4" of sheathing (almost all of the showing sheathing) i did notice that my wires were totally different colors, except for the one green wire placement, then the one i saw in the DIY but i thought i cut the same one they did.. ill go dig into that harness right now and see if that loop is deeeep in there. Its kinda odd it went up to 50km form factory i did think it would be around 20mph
Update: yes i found it! Thanks for the help guys, it was sooo far back i have no idea why but its all the way up near the actual breaker.. i see two green wire black line loops now... do i cut both? I only remember one in the diy..
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X-Nitro
10 W
Strange but I think maybe the wire is looped & that is why it's so far back? You can try to see if the wires pull out longer but anyway just cut where you want & enjoy.
Ttwinsupra
1 mW
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X-Nitro said:
Yep it was double looped way up in there, i made one cut, tested it, and the thing is flyin. Thanks again guys
Rix
100 TW
Ttwinsupra said:
Its actually the same wire, they are looped around and if you pull on it enough, you will see. Just cut the loop of your choice, and hang on.
Rix
100 TW
thoroughbred
100 W
L1E Euro headlight issue: I left my key on for few hours by mistake. One of the headlight LEDs faded to a barely perceptible glow.
I took the headlight apart to find the top LED is driven at 12.4 volts. The housing is marked "5 W". That is the one that burned out. The bottom LED was driven at less than 4 volts. The 6 small LEDs on the sides of the light are driven at 8 volts. (Obviously there is a small board that drives the separate LEDs in there)
the headlight assembly is for sale (overseas) for 45 pounds, Luna doesn't offer it.
https://surron.co.uk/collections/sur-ron-l1e-road-legal-parts-diagrams/products/l1e-road-legal-front-end-hardware-lighting?variant=31342953234502
The LEDs used look exactly like these 5W units so I bought a pack of five for $5
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-1W-3W-5W-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-White-SMD-LED-COB-Chip-Lights-Beads/122044236962?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=421059306288&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
I got the old one out with difficulty and a new one soldered in but I chose the wrong color "natural white". The stock Sur Ron bulb is a colder blue color. Time will tell if this light is garbage given the price I paid for it.
How big a light would the DC to Dc converter support? Time to do some night riding...
I took the headlight apart to find the top LED is driven at 12.4 volts. The housing is marked "5 W". That is the one that burned out. The bottom LED was driven at less than 4 volts. The 6 small LEDs on the sides of the light are driven at 8 volts. (Obviously there is a small board that drives the separate LEDs in there)
the headlight assembly is for sale (overseas) for 45 pounds, Luna doesn't offer it.
https://surron.co.uk/collections/sur-ron-l1e-road-legal-parts-diagrams/products/l1e-road-legal-front-end-hardware-lighting?variant=31342953234502
The LEDs used look exactly like these 5W units so I bought a pack of five for $5
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-1W-3W-5W-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-White-SMD-LED-COB-Chip-Lights-Beads/122044236962?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=421059306288&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
I got the old one out with difficulty and a new one soldered in but I chose the wrong color "natural white". The stock Sur Ron bulb is a colder blue color. Time will tell if this light is garbage given the price I paid for it.
How big a light would the DC to Dc converter support? Time to do some night riding...
Rix
100 TW
Kauaiguy said:
I think the 55T is the best overall performance sprocket for everything. I got the 64 because of the this one area I ride that is massive hill climbs galore.
speedmd
10 MW
I have used "drivers" for them. That way you control the current that is going to each or each group of them. Something like these.
https://power.sager.com/ldd-700l-2719572.html?utm_source=googlemerchant&utm_medium=click&utm_campaign=power-brand&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlNLbnMjz6AIVQZJbCh1uww0GEAQYAyABEgKX2fD_BwE
Regular oring chain has a lot of friction until it breaks in.Xring uses a type of oring in the shape of an X which has less contact and friction.Roller chain and Xring have about the same friction but no need to lube the Xring except for corrosion.Niche chain is made in Canada and is quality chain at a bargain price.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
The biggest difference between X Ring, O Ring, Z Ring, and any other chain with rubber between the link plates and the rollers is they trap chain lube longer, and there for can go longer in between lubing frequencies. Back in my Enduro and Desert racing days, I ran O Ring chains because I needed to for chain and sprocket life. Being that I ride the SurRon way shorter distances, and I am not riding in the same type of crappy conditions as I rode my gassers, I run a non O Ring chain to reduce parasitic drive train loss and its easy to lube and stay on top of. Because I am always on top of my chain maintenance, I don't think an O Ring chain would last any longer than a Non O Ring chain for me given the quality of the chains being equal.
Rix
100 TW
Got the 64T on and tested, still hit 38-39MPH, almost as fast as my old SurRon with the 55T sprocket which was a solid 39mph on the radar trailer. Thank you field weakening. And this will loop my ass over backwards if hit the throttle from start. Also got my high rise bars on. This was a huge difference, it makes the whole bike feel just a bit bigger.
Attachments
Nice, yes the high rise bars was probably the best first upgrade you can do on this bike.
For me I think I would go with the x-chain because I don't like to be bothered lubing the chain, I will deal with more friction than bother spraying down the chain with oil.
Rix, I missed it where you decided to go back to the sur-ron. The last thing I remember is you sold your sur-ron to go with that larger electric dirt bike. I see you are back to a sur-ron again.
For me I think I would go with the x-chain because I don't like to be bothered lubing the chain, I will deal with more friction than bother spraying down the chain with oil.
Rix, I missed it where you decided to go back to the sur-ron. The last thing I remember is you sold your sur-ron to go with that larger electric dirt bike. I see you are back to a sur-ron again.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
Yah, I sold the green one and bought an Alta EXR right before Alta went under. I loved that bike. Then I had total knee replacement surgery, and was having some issues with the knee, so I sold the Alta because it was getting to the point that I couldn't load it to get it to the trail head to ride. I went back to the SurRon mainly because it is light and I can move it around and handle it without any issues. I almost went wit the Cake OR, but it was more than my Alta, and I could buy 3 SurRons for the price of Cake OR and still have 1k or more left over.
Did another ride with my new tire and I'm really like thing Shinko 241 tire. I lowered the PSI to around 10 and really rode the bike hard today. At 10 PSI the tire feels as soft as the Sur-Ron tire at 15PSI. I rode some stairs and I think stairs are the most likely place the tire would spin on the rim and rip out a valve. I think 10 PSI is a non-issue for the tire spinning on the rim.
I also like that the tire doesn't rip up the grass and dirt like the sur-ron tire. I could feel the narrowness of the 19" tire slipping and ripping up the dirt and grass. The 3" shinko 241 feels much more planted in the ground, doesn't feel narrow, and doesn't spin out all that much.
Best part is now I can ride on the street without constantly thinking about how its wearing out my tires. I think one small drawback is that with the lower PSI it seems like the bike may lose a little bit of top speed?
I also like that the tire doesn't rip up the grass and dirt like the sur-ron tire. I could feel the narrowness of the 19" tire slipping and ripping up the dirt and grass. The 3" shinko 241 feels much more planted in the ground, doesn't feel narrow, and doesn't spin out all that much.
Best part is now I can ride on the street without constantly thinking about how its wearing out my tires. I think one small drawback is that with the lower PSI it seems like the bike may lose a little bit of top speed?
