Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

[liveforphysics]

Does it have around a 1in ground clearance penalty over an SX85?

Will an SX85 brake and fork fit a Sur Ron by chance?

 

[3DTOPO]

I am getting stupid with this whole thing. I just ordered some 11" forks.

What fork is that if you don't mind me asking?

Speaking of forks, the Bridgestone M403's vent sprues cut clean through my fork!!

Are you running them?

I have hit the trails pretty hard with it like this, but I think it must have compromised the structural integrity. I would have just nipped the vent sprues off if I knew they where going to cut through the fork (I have now even though they now made their own clear path). I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum! I guess they must have got little dust/sand particles stuck on them which probably aided in abrasion.

 

[Hyena]

I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum!

Wow! That's pretty crazy. As you said it must have been transferring grit than than just the straight rubber.
Who'd have thunk it in a game of scissors, paper, rock, rubber, aluminium :lol:

Does it have around a 1in ground clearance penalty over an SX85?
Will an SX85 brake and fork fit a Sur Ron by chance?

I have a RM85L (longer wheel base with 19/16 wheelset) and the seat height is about 2" higher than the surron which actually makes it perfect for me over a full size dirt bike as I can comfortably flat foot it (I'm 5'8" ) For the sort of technical riding I do (exploring, climbing over logs and steep rocky stuff) the size is perfect though obviously the 2 stroke isn't so good for such things. An electric conversion would sort that right out though
I'll have to do a size comparison with a surron, but here it is next to my 15kw alpha (26" / 19" wheelset)
Ground clearance at a glance would be about the same size as the surron.
The forks of the 85 would probably fit but you'd be best to swap the whole front end given the surron runs MTB spec brakes and hub and obviously long term the strong built moto stuff (for minimal weight penalty) are the way to go - especially with higher power.

 

[snee]

that fork damage looks pretty nasty, i have a boxxer world cup fork on its way in the mail for mine but ill be sticking to the stock wheel dimensions.

 

[Rix]

I am getting stupid with this whole thing. I just ordered some 11" forks.

What fork is that if you don't mind me asking?

Speaking of forks, the Bridgestone M403's vent sprues cut clean through my fork!!

Are you running them?

I have hit the trails pretty hard with it like this, but I think it must have compromised the structural integrity. I would have just nipped the vent sprues off if I knew they where going to cut through the fork (I have now even though they now made their own clear path). I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum! I guess they must have got little dust/sand particles stuck on them which probably aided in abrasion.

This is weird, I have the M403s on mine and have had no clearance issues at all. I got over 15mm of clearance between the knob and kickstand spring post and about 12mm on the chain line. Obviously with the USD Fork, clearance is not an issue up front either.

 

[n2mb]

Hi everyone,

New here. I'm looking into whether the Sur Ron could be registered as a Moped in North Carolina if I only use it in ECO mode, which would limit it to 30 mph. I'm interested in using it to commute to work. It seems to be the best value in terms of power per dollar for all eBikes I can find.

From here:
https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/vehicles/mopedfaq.html

What do I need to register my moped?
The moped’s Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MCO), along with a Certification of Plate and/or Address form (MVR-1A) OR an Affidavit of Facts for the Registration of a Moped form (MVR-58)

The affidavit form is pretty simple. NC does allow for electric mopeds now, with the new law in 2015. Before 2015, registration and insurance wasn't even required!

However, it does require a VIN number. It does say:

My moped does not have a vehicle identification number. How do I obtain one?
Contact a License & Theft office to apply for a new vehicle identification number for your moped.

I could try and register it using the serial number, but I imagine it won't work in their computers.

I'm going to call the inspector next to see if they will generate a VIN number for me and if they need to inspect the bike. I've actually gone to the same inspector before for a car that didn't exist in their computers, even though it had a valid VIN number. An officer needed to inspect the VIN number plate, write it down and sign some paperwork.

I also contacted my insurance and they seem to be ok with providing moped insurance for a moped that isn't in their system. State minimum coverage is about $36 / 6 months!


Has anyone else attempted to register the Sur Ron as a Moped?

Thanks!

 

[motomoto]

Does it have around a 1in ground clearance penalty over an SX85?

Will an SX85 brake and fork fit a Sur Ron by chance?

The way I overlayed the two bikes, that is what it looks like. I don't care too much about that, as long
as my feet aren't catching on stuff. The pegs are about the same height.

I bought the latest WP 43mm AER forks that fit both the KTM or Husky 85. I will make triple clamps that
fit the forks that will have a stem to fit the Sur-ron. I will have to do something special with the upper
head tube bearing situation because the forks are made for a longer head tube. The KTM front wheel
setup fits these forks but not a Sur-ron fork.

A hot electric bike with awesome suspension, sweet.

I have been trying to come up with a good Lipo battery combination for 20s but no magic combo yet.
These Vant batteries seem to have a good reputation.
http://dirtcheaprc.com/?s=vant&post_type=product

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

the new street legal L1e homologated Sur-ron version shipping this summer have VIN numbers.. I have confirmed this with uk Sur-ron dealer (Electroncycles.co.uk ).. hopefully Luna will be selling these street legal version as well by this summer, if you can wait that long (contact luna to confirm if they will carry the homologated versions and if so when)..

 

[3DTOPO]

This is weird, I have the M403s on mine and have had no clearance issues at all. I got over 15mm of clearance between the knob and kickstand spring post and about 12mm on the chain line. Obviously with the USD Fork, clearance is not an issue up front either.

With the side nubs my tires are 208.6mm wide. How wide are yours? I didn’t know the USD fork had more clearance than the RST Killah. What 11” fork did you order?

quote]What do I need to register my moped?
The moped’s Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MCO), along with a Certification of Plate and/or Address form (MVR-1A) OR an Affidavit of Facts for the Registration of a Moped form (MVR-58)

If you are able to get a Certificate of Origin, please let me know how you did it! Luna said they have absolutely no interest in helping me obtain one, and Sur-Ron didn’t respond to my inquiry.

 

[n2mb]

If you are able to get a Certificate of Origin, please let me know how you did it! Luna said they have absolutely no interest in helping me obtain one, and Sur-Ron didn’t respond to my inquiry.

I saw you or someone mention that. NC doesn't seem to require a Certificate of Origin. They have a separate form if you don't have one.

 

[E-geezer]

I would have just nipped the vent sprues off if I knew they where going to cut through the fork (I have now even though they now made their own clear path). I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum! I guess they must have got little dust/sand particles stuck on them which probably aided in abrasion.

Huh. I'd never think that could happen. You might check how much your wheel is flexing in a turn, I've had bicycle wheels flex enough to rub even when they look to have plenty of clearance. Spokes might be loose, or just not a sturdy enough build.

 

[3DTOPO]

If you are able to get a Certificate of Origin, please let me know how you did it! Luna said they have absolutely no interest in helping me obtain one, and Sur-Ron didn’t respond to my inquiry.

I saw you or someone mention that. NC doesn't seem to require a Certificate of Origin. They have a separate form if you don't have one.

Nice; but the portion of the law you quoted clearly states one is required.

I would have just nipped the vent sprues off if I knew they where going to cut through the fork (I have now even though they now made their own clear path). I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum! I guess they must have got little dust/sand particles stuck on them which probably aided in abrasion.

Huh. I'd never think that could happen. You might check how much your wheel is flexing in a turn, I've had bicycle wheels flex enough to rub even when they look to have plenty of clearance. Spokes might be loose, or just not a sturdy enough build.

Me either! No, the tire nubs haven’t done any damage. It was just the vent sprues (little rubber hairs) that were touching. I knew the hairs were touching but never would have figured that they could cut through the aluminum! I figured they would just quickly wear off.

 

[n2mb]

Nice; but the portion of the law you quoted clearly states one is required.

It is tough to read, but the key is the "OR"

The moped’s Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MCO), along with a Certification of Plate and/or Address form (MVR-1A)
OR an Affidavit of Facts for the Registration of a Moped form (MVR-58)

Also, the form MVR-58 makes it more clear:
https://www.ncdot.gov/download/dmv/VR_MVR58.pdf

Instructions: The following questions must be answered in detail and this form must be presented as an application for the registration of a moped for which a Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin cannot be furnished. Furnish any documents in your possession that will show proof of ownership. Examples include titles, bill of sale, conditional sales contract, invoices, or out of state registrations.

 

[3DTOPO]

Nice; but the portion of the law you quoted clearly states one is required.

It is tough to read, but the key is the "OR"

The moped’s Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MCO), along with a Certification of Plate and/or Address form (MVR-1A)
OR an Affidavit of Facts for the Registration of a Moped form (MVR-58)

Well, it says a MCO is required PLUS a plate and/or Address form. :wink:

Also, the form MVR-58 makes it more clear:
https://www.ncdot.gov/download/dmv/VR_MVR58.pdf

Instructions: The following questions must be answered in detail and this form must be presented as an application for the registration of a moped for which a Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin cannot be furnished. Furnish any documents in your possession that will show proof of ownership. Examples include titles, bill of sale, conditional sales contract, invoices, or out of state registrations.

That is definitely more clear.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

If you are able to get a Certificate of Origin, please let me know how you did it! Luna said they have absolutely no interest in helping me obtain one, and Sur-Ron didn’t respond to my inquiry.

I saw you or someone mention that. NC doesn't seem to require a Certificate of Origin. They have a separate form if you don't have one.

Nice; but the portion of the law you quoted clearly states one is required.

I would have just nipped the vent sprues off if I knew they where going to cut through the fork (I have now even though they now made their own clear path). I just can't believe such tiny rubber hairs cut through the aluminum! I guess they must have got little dust/sand particles stuck on them which probably aided in abrasion.

Huh. I'd never think that could happen. You might check how much your wheel is flexing in a turn, I've had bicycle wheels flex enough to rub even when they look to have plenty of clearance. Spokes might be loose, or just not a sturdy enough build.

Me either! No, the tire nubs haven’t done any damage. It was just the vent sprues (little rubber hairs) that were touching. I knew the hairs were touching but never would have figured that they could cut through the aluminum! I figured they would just quickly wear off.

fyi the RST fork lowers are magnesium which is a much softer (and lighter) material than aluminum.. if they were aluminum it probably would not have been damaged by the tire hairs alone..

 

[3DTOPO]

fyi the RST fork lowers are magnesium which is a much softer (and lighter) material than aluminum.. if they were aluminum it probably would not have been damaged by the tire hairs alone..

Thanks for reminding me, I forgot they were made of mag!

I suspect it would do the same thing to aluminum, I think it just would have taken longer (when I cut the vent sprues off they showed no sign of being worn out).

That said, I am certain I wouldn't want to try to find out. Given how easy it is to just remove the hairs. :wink:

 

[Rix]

This is weird, I have the M403s on mine and have had no clearance issues at all. I got over 15mm of clearance between the knob and kickstand spring post and about 12mm on the chain line. Obviously with the USD Fork, clearance is not an issue up front either.

With the side nubs my tires are 208.6mm wide. How wide are yours? I didn’t know the USD fork had more clearance than the RST Killah. What 11” fork did you order?


If you are able to get a Certificate of Origin, please let me know how you did it! Luna said they have absolutely no interest in helping me obtain one, and Sur-Ron didn’t respond to my inquiry.

Do you mean 108.6mm wide? I will measure mine tonight, but by looking at them, they aren't going to be any wider than 75-80mm.

 

[3DTOPO]

Do you mean 108.6mm wide? I will measure mine tonight, but by looking at them, they aren't going to be any wider than 75-80mm.

Ooops! I neglected to zero out the calipers!

They are in-fact 80mm wide.

 

[Rix]

Do you mean 108.6mm wide? I will measure mine tonight, but by looking at them, they aren't going to be any wider than 75-80mm.

Ooops! I neglected to zero out the calipers!

They are in-fact 80mm wide.

That makes sense. Mine come out at 79.5mm on the nose. BTW, here is a pic of the Sur-Ron at 9,200 feet above sea level. Several weeks back I upgraded to an Iphone X and just learned how to email pictures. The mountains in the background are 11,900+ feet high.

 

[3DTOPO]

That makes sense. Mine come out at 79.5mm on the nose.

So I guess your front fork is a bit wider than mine, and I must have a longer spring pin on my kickstand or something. Is that the USD fork that came with it?

BTW, here is a pic of the Sur-Ron at 9,200 feet above sea level. Several weeks back I upgraded to an Iphone X and just learned how to email pictures. The mountains in the background are 11,900+ feet high.

Awesome! Which mountains? Congrats on your new phone (I happen to be an iOS app developer).

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

That makes sense. Mine come out at 79.5mm on the nose.

So I guess your front fork is a bit wider than mine, and I must have a longer spring pin on my kickstand or something. Is that the USD fork that came with it?

USD suspension forks have more tire clearance since they don't have the fork brace at the top of the fork legs which are more limiting for wider tire use..

 

[3DTOPO]

USD suspension forks have more tire clearance since they don't have the fork brace at the top of the fork legs which are more limiting for wider tire use..

Thanks! I see. It looks like the coil housing starts to taper to form the brace.

If money were not a concern, what is the best fork I could put on this little monster? I looked at the Rock Shot BoXXer RC DebonAir, but I can only find them with 15mm axles. I'm not sure how wide it is either.

The Manitou Dorado Pro sound pretty nice, but I would prefer something with less flex (main reason why I choose the RST).

Suggestions very much appreciated.

 

[Rix]

USD suspension forks have more tire clearance since they don't have the fork brace at the top of the fork legs which are more limiting for wider tire use..

Thanks! I see. It looks like the coil housing starts to taper to form the brace.

If money were not a concern, what is the best fork I could put on this little monster? I looked at the Rock Shot BoXXer RC DebonAir, but I can only find them with 15mm axles. I'm not sure how wide it is either.

The Manitou Dorado Pro sound pretty nice, but I would prefer something with less flex (main reason why I choose the RST).

Suggestions very much appreciated.

I think the MRP Groove Fork is the best out there in terms of performance VS ease to set up and dial. https://www.mrpbike.com/groove/
Technically there are better forks like the Fox 40 and DVO, but this fork is 95% percent as good as those forks, and this fork is way easier to dial. Need to adjust static rider sag or preload, add or remove a couple of PSI. Need to slow down for speed up the rebound, dial in a few clicks. This fork is the best single circuit fork out there. No high speed/slow speed circuits to deal with, and yet it works wonderfully for how simple it is. I will be ordering the grove 180 for my bike as soon as I can start riding after knee surgery.

 

[Rix]

So I got Kim's (Motomoto) 52T sprocket mounted today and road tested. This was no easy feat as I could just barely bend my knee enough to put my foot on the foot peg. Anyway, I like the 52T better than the 48T and 58T I had been running. Its the perfect compromise. I still have a top speed of about 40MPH and a bit more oomph off the bottom. The front wheels is still easy to loft in the air. On that note, I will be selling my slightly used 58T for 30 bucks plus 11 for shipping if anyone in the US is interested. I really like the 52t and think its the perfect combo sprocket to run with the Bridgestone M403 front and rear and wont be going back to the 58 or 48T.

 

[n2mb]

So I got Kim's (Motomoto) 52T sprocket mounted today and road tested. This was no easy feat as I could just barely bend my knee enough to put my foot on the foot peg. Anyway, I like the 52T better than the 48T and 58T I had been running. Its the perfect compromise. I still have a top speed of about 40MPH and a bit more oomph off the bottom. The front wheels is still easy to loft in the air. On that note, I will be selling my slightly used 58T for 30 bucks plus 11 for shipping if anyone in the US is interested. I really like the 52t and think its the perfect combo sprocket to run with the Bridgestone M403 front and rear and wont be going back to the 58 or 48T.

Which do you think is the best for on-road use?