The helpful 9C wire upgrade thread, explicit DIY pictures.

Thanks for the excellent guide Luke, I got one of the 8x8s from Methy so I'll give it a try.
-JD
 
Spacey said:
Even though I've bought a 40amp Sensorless controller for my 9C, I was going to attempt to get the Halls wired up but gave up after it was going to be an impossible job to dig them out of the stator.

I do like the 9C motor a lot and really hope that mine works after all the work I've put into it, just waiting on the sensorless controller to arrive.
Click to expand...

I suppose if they were still glued in really well they may be a little tight. If you look closely you will see they are actually in slots. Centrifugal force cannot dislodge them because they will only slide out to the side. Right at the bottom of the slot was a tiny bit of clearance. One that was still bonded well would probably have glue in that spot. I sharpened my tool much like a small flathead screwdriver and was able to push it in under the hall and twist a little and slide it right out. Maybe someone will have a clearer pic than mine.
 
Ok, my phase wires are now much fatter than stock, thanks for the guide LFP!
Being a metric kind of guy I only managed to fit something like "11.5AWG" but stock was something like 14awg.

Now to the question, is there any benefit to upgrading to say 8awg where the cables exits the axle or should I run my "11.5" all the way to the controller? I'm not building a drag bike, I won't ventilate the hub motor.
 
torker said:
Spacey said:
Even though I've bought a 40amp Sensorless controller for my 9C, I was going to attempt to get the Halls wired up but gave up after it was going to be an impossible job to dig them out of the stator.

I do like the 9C motor a lot and really hope that mine works after all the work I've put into it, just waiting on the sensorless controller to arrive.
Click to expand...

I suppose if they were still glued in really well they may be a little tight. If you look closely you will see they are actually in slots. Centrifugal force cannot dislodge them because they will only slide out to the side. Right at the bottom of the slot was a tiny bit of clearance. One that was still bonded well would probably have glue in that spot. I sharpened my tool much like a small flathead screwdriver and was able to push it in under the hall and twist a little and slide it right out. Maybe someone will have a clearer pic than mine.
Click to expand...

Yeah I should have tried hard to get the sensor wires going as well as the 12awg upgrade as I have lost a lot of top speed going sensorless, used to be 37mph is now 25mph on flat :( Only just got the speedo working again.
 
Spacey said:
Yeah I should have tried hard to get the sensor wires going as well as the 12awg upgrade as I have lost a lot of top speed going sensorless, used to be 37mph is now 25mph on flat :( Only just got the speedo working again.
Click to expand...

Riding the sensorless at it's max speed is probably a bad idea. On mine the motor and controller both ran hot quickly, so the incorrect commutation was wasting current and making the controller work hard to push it, all wasting battery capacity in the process. Your useful top speed may be only 20, not 25.
 
I noticed the silly amps being used above a certain throttle amount so I programmed the controller to have max speed at just under this amount. Using between 15 and 20amps on cruise speed i.e 25mph.

Will be a while before I can afford another wheel and controller, but next time I will go Lipo and 8x8 9C or even one of the more sturdier rear motors.
 
Spacey said:
Yeah I should have tried hard to get the sensor wires going as well as the 12awg upgrade as I have lost a lot of top speed going sensorless, used to be 37mph is now 25mph on flat :( Only just got the speedo working again.
Click to expand...


Something is wrong. Or your motor isn't sensor-less friendly.

Go with hall sensors. Really. They make so much sense. Sensor-less is like a last resort if you're out of other options, or to limp-home if you blow a hall.
 
In Uk we get the most stupid amount of rain, this year was pretty bad for it. I would say 50% of the time on my 12 mile ride to work it was bloody raining!

When the sensors went due to rust I just figured that even if I do fix it the problem will come back due to rusting of the iron in 9C, I was told that the Lyen Soesorless would be good for 60mph (as in rpms will go up that high), so I bought it...turns out a miscalculation by myself and Lyen was that the rpm is digital rpm so actual rpm of wheel x poles = SLOW!

I just had to upgrade the bell wire that the 9C's come with and was not having much luck getting the hall sensor wires through axle as well as the 12Awg Phase wires.

Had I known the sensorless controller would not be good for more than 25mph I would not have bought it, stupidly low on funds at the moment and I have an upcoming wedding (mine) to pay for lol.

Sucks to be honest, but now I am in destruction mode with the bike, I am pushing the controller, 9C and 20 Cell 16ah Headway pack to maximum to see how long it takes to break something. Have chemical metal'd the Torque arms in....just hope they set before I have to go to work tomorrow...gulp.

Next stop will be Lipo, 18Fet Controller, Burties awesome timing advancer (love that thing) and also maybe the new 5304 motor :)
 
Once again thanks for doing this for us luke:

Two questions for you guys:

1: What size shrink fits 12 awg nice and tight?

2: I want to run smaller wiring for the halls and temp sensors. Hobby king only has 26 awg and 36awg - Will 36 awg work for a run from the controller to the hall sensors? Should I heat shrink all three wires together for security?

Thanks ~
 
auraslip said:
Once again thanks for doing this for us luke:

Two questions for you guys:

1: What size shrink fits 12 awg nice and tight?

2: I want to run smaller wiring for the halls and temp sensors. Hobby king only has 26 awg and 36awg - Will 36 awg work for a run from the controller to the hall sensors? Should I heat shrink all three wires together for security?

Thanks ~
Click to expand...

In the first post, section #4 answers your question.
 
4: 10awg wire insulation is thick. Even the best teflon wire insulation is thicker than you can fit for 10awg. Shrink wrap is thin. You will need 3mm shrink wrap if you're going to fit 10awg. 10awg wire can BARELY tuck into 3mm shrink, you need to first straighten the strands out.
Click to expand...

? So I'm guessing 4mm shrink?

I'm more worried about using 36 awg wire for the hall sensors.
 
auraslip said:
4: 10awg wire insulation is thick. Even the best teflon wire insulation is thicker than you can fit for 10awg. Shrink wrap is thin. You will need 3mm shrink wrap if you're going to fit 10awg. 10awg wire can BARELY tuck into 3mm shrink, you need to first straighten the strands out.
Click to expand...

? So I'm guessing 4mm shrink?

I'm more worried about using 36 awg wire for the hall sensors.
Click to expand...


It's a very snug fit, I would try for 3mm if you can make it happen. 4mm just makes the wires slightly harder to fit through the axle, but does offer a tiny bit thicker insulation protection for the wires.
 
auraslip said:
I'm not even gonna try 10 awg cause I'm not doing mad current and I'm lazy. I'll try 12 awg with 4mm and see if the stock halls and stock temp sensor wire fits.
Click to expand...

12awg slips easily into 3mm shrink.
 
I found this thread while searching for wire size current rating. I came to the wrong conclusion that my 3500W scoot which can move 80A at 70V through the controller and uses 2 X 10G wires from battery negative to controller, was overkill. :idea: You are using 3 X 10G from controller to hub as this scoot does. Now I am considering using 3 X 10G from battery to controller, because I have felt these wires and they are quite warm after climbing my home hill.

P.S. When I opened a connector between the charger plug and the battery pack I find one of the bullet type pins mashed over and making a poor connection. Fortunately the pins were soldered and it appears the bad connection produced enough heat that the solder melted on the connector pin to meet the outside of the socket. We will always be the quality control in the Ornamental QC Program. :roll: :mrgreen:
 
amberwolf said:
Oh, come on, every company has a really good QC program...it just stands for Quick Check now. :p
Click to expand...

I remember 20 years ago, standing with my buddy "the little yellow fellow", when we opened the doors of a container full of new PC's. They immediately began dropping like domino's, 10' to the ground, I tried to catch a few, but he yanked me out of the way. He and his employees were all laughing as he explained that this was a "standard drop test.!" :shock: :lol:
 
Wasn't that easy?

The vaseline made the slippery long things go happily into the hole, and it was all smiles when they wanted to come out the other end!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47312686@N03/sets/72157627058407645/

A special helpful tool for this sort of business is some doctors surgical hemostats, to grab things in tight places.

Now it's time for the IRON!

Sam,
@samotage
 
Why aluminium wire?
Wouldn't copper be better for this particular application?
liveforphysics said:
wirestraighten.png
Click to expand...
 
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