FINALLY changed the tires today, some 14 hours after I started early this morning.
As usual, nothing was simple. Too many things went sideways to list them all (even to remember them all!), so we'll just keep it to stuff directly related to the trike, other than to mention that for every step of fixing stuff on the trike, there were several other steps needed to do other things otherwise-totally-urelated-to-the trike, including dealing with achies and hurties, just so I could do the trike stuff.
First, some pics of the tires being removed, still on the trike and then after taking them off the wheels. Rode on them like that for most of a week before it was bad enough to not risk any further, and switched to teh bike till the tires arrived.
Changing the left tire turned out, surprisingly, to be relatively easy and quick, only taking about 1.5 hours or so, with the complications that arose outside of the trike itself. So I don't have any pics of that, as there wasn't anything interesting, other than the pics above of teh worn tire.
The right tire....wow, what a cluster....
First, getting it off was really easy (unlike the left side, which is a huge messy deal), because I built that clamping dropout for the inner axle end, and so far the nut and torque washer work fine on the outer axle end. Takes like 5 minutes to undo it, take it off, and put it back on and retighten it, pretty much like any other bike wheel. (left side takes at least 30-45 minutes just for that part).
However, that's where simplicity ended, because first my left hand went numb (happens randomly) for a second and I dropped the motor wheel, which being an x5304 went fast and hard and bounced as the tire was still well-inflated, and it then pulled two of the phase wires apart at the motor-controller connection.
If you remember from a previous post, I didn't have any solder left (well, not enough) when moving the controllers to under the cargo deck, and butt-spliced the phase wires, then ziptied around them to clamp them together, then electrical tapeda round that. Well, I guess these two zipties weren't tight enough, cuz the wires just slipped past each other.
Alright, that's not so bad.. .annoying, but fixable easily enough.
So now I'm working the tire off the rim, and still having some trouble with my hands, plus I'm on the ground kneeling and my knees and ankles hurt, but I can't sit in a chair or on anything and do this, cuz the reach of wires, seeing what I'm doing, etc, and I drop the wheel again...thsi time the last phase wire rips out at the axle exit instead.
THAT I can't just splice back together, I'll have to open up the motor to fix.
Sigh.
At that point (when I should have had the whole thing already long done), I was hot, tired, and hungry, and Bill was due to show up for lunchtime soon, so I just went in and cleaned up, putting thoughts of repair to the back of my mind to let it work out what I would need to do and if I had the stuff for it.
While at lunch, we went to goodwill as usual, and I found a large plastic dog crate/kennel actually a teeny bit bigger than the one I have now (maybe a couple inches longer, inch or so higher and wider). This means Yogi will fit in it easier, and having two means I can use one on the trailer and one on the trike, add the trailer hitch to the trike, and be able to take both Tiny and Yogi somewhere at the same time. (Bill bought it for me, which was really nice cuz I've been getting short on money).
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The only problem at the moment is that it's larger size means it wont' directly fit on the trike until I make the vertical rack supports about an inch or two longer. (I tested it, and it won't quite reach and bolt on...though in the process I did find where the rattle was coming from--I somehow never ran the front right support bolt thru the hole in teh lower attachment point on the fender--so when it is tight enough it pinches the top end of that support into the uppoer support, but as it vibrates it wears and ratttles....so now that's fixed, and the rattle should stay gone).
After lunch, about two hours after the above, I dug out some 10 gauge AC-electrical wire, already in a 3-wire group of white, blue and green (close enough to ybg), which was the fattest wire I could possibly fit in teh slot of the axle, along with hall wires (whcih I am not using right now, as the cotnroller ignores them, but I will once I get or fix a better controller).
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I considered using this old drivyer cord which is some huge wire maybe 4g or 6g, but no way would it firt in there.
I changed the tire first before opening up the motor, just to get it done.
I think the original wire was 16g, maybe 15g.
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Because fo the muich bigger new fphase wires I wound up leaving the outer jacket off the hall wires so I could fit them flat over the 3 phase wires laid flat/parallel on the axle slot, and it was still a tight fit inside the bearing's ID.
Wires fixed (and upgraded), I then reattached the wheel, and spliced the phase wires back to teh controller, this time using a bit of the tiny amount of solder I have left (there is not enough to fully solder even one, so there's just enough to prevent them being yanked apart if I have to change a tire), and heatshrinking the splices.
For now I also left about 3 feet of phase wire, until I have a more permanent controller connection and placement (proably they['ll stay under the cargo rack, but that's still under test).
Rode around the yard and the neighboorhood, tested both wheels and motors ok, and the tires worked out too.
Both tires have inside them a second tire, whcih in this case is the old kenda flames off my original chariot trailer from dayglo avenger. the one on the right side has worked fine there for the whole time it's been there, so using the other on the left seems it should be ok.
Also, the two outer tires from Skedgy Sky are different widths, so I put the 2.0" on the left as it has the narrower rim, and the 2.125" on the right, with the wider rim (whcih is about twice as wide as the left side rim).
I also added a "hood" over the headlight, been planning that for a while, to shield the glare off it's top from traffic, and only put light on the ground where I need it. previously, the scatttering of light upward was pretty high, and this thin plastic hood (just taped on for now) still gives me the same beam and such but eliminates the scattered light shining over in the oncoming traffic lanes, and above the top of the beam.
I tehn also added another headlight, with no hood yet, used to be a fog lamp I think (slightly yellowish tint on it's reflector), for the occasional times I really need more light than this, or farther away. It's much tighter beam in a rectangle, less scatter, and would like to use it as the main headlight, but can't because it gets so hot that unless there is LOTS of airflow over it constantly, I can see "smoke" or vapors rising from it that appear to be from the plastic of it's housing (it ahs a metal refletor and glass lens, but the mounting and housing is all plastic). Hasn't warped or anything yet but it's obvioulsly softer than normal when hot, which only takes about a minute to become too hot to touch on the glass, and too hot to hold a thumb on even lightly on the plastic.
I will probvably change ti's moutn to something else made of metal and move it down below the present main headlight, but for now it'll stay where it is to see how it behaves in situations i need it.
presentl y to turn it on i have to hook it's wires up parallel to the main headlight, but i'll run longer wiers down to a new swithch nect to the main headlight tolgle switch, for this secondary light.
teh led grin tech light is now moved up onto the tiller tube near the stem, where i can reach it's switch to turn it on or off if I need it. it, too, needs longer wires to run to power separately from the other headlights.
during my test rides i also found a problem i should have anticipated: the new rear rack light bar shines into the mirrors, and looks as if there is a car follwong me all the time, very bright. I taped off the end lights and it helps, but it's not enough; i'd have to tape off all but the center four lights to fix the problem.
so for now I just pointed the light bar downward, straight, to avoid any glare in the mirrors. This means the SMV sign ins't lit up much, but ti does light up the road around the trike much much better. Oh, well. can't win them all.
