The weakest link in a geared hub

hillslayer@

100 W
Joined
Aug 12, 2024
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221
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California
I believe it is the woodruff key that holds the clutch and plastic gears. Grin posting a video on how to glue the clutch to the motor shaft using loctite tells me to stay away from these until they get a handle on making it so a 10 cent part can't leave you immobile.
 
In some designs, this key is supposed to prevent the gears from being damaged, so the key is made intentionally weak.
This safety feature not always well implemented.

In reality the gears are the weakest part.
 
In reality the gears are the weakest part.
Depends on the system design and the usage. If it never gets overly warm or hot (so the plastic of most gears doesn't soften, causing the most typical of gear failures), then the clutch itself (especially for roller-ramp types) is vulnerable to torque spikes, which can either cause slippage (and flattening-wear of the rollers, so further wear is more likely to end up in the same spot) or even crack the clutch body. Can also just shear gear teeth off.

The spikes can happen from normal usage, when the wheel comes off the ground and the motor inside spins up rapidly, then the wheel touches the ground again and yanks the motor down to a much lower speed, the torque transfer is thru the clutch and gears, which may take a lot of those before cumulative damage causes a failure.

(this issue can also cause controller problems, with the sudden current spike; some have safeties to prevent this, like the Phaserunner that may just error out and require power cycling to reset, but most don't and can blow FETs from it).
 
What kind of phase amp to battery amp ratio do you run, OP?

It's tempting to run a 3:1 phase amp to battery amp ratio, and produce bucketloads of torque on geared motors.
I find that closer to a 2.33:1 ratio lowers the initial torque, but still provides powerful mid-range torque. This softer initial blast of power helps preserve the gears, clutch, keyway, etc.
 
I snapped keys by just increasing the amps I believe it's just a matter of time before it goes.
So... you juiced your motor way past its rating, and now it's somehow not your fault you lunched it?
 
I snapped keys by just increasing the amps I believe it's just a matter of time before it goes.
better the key than critical parts of the motor that are much more expensive / difficult to replace. ;)
 
What kind of phase amp to battery amp ratio do you run, OP?

It's tempting to run a 3:1 phase amp to battery amp ratio, and produce bucketloads of torque on geared motors.
I find that closer to a 2.33:1 ratio lowers the initial torque, but still provides powerful mid-range torque. This softer initial blast of power helps preserve the gears, clutch, keyway, etc.
I just changed from a 13 amp controller to a 26 amp the old controller would not let you use throttle until 5 mph. Probably to keep from breaking something. You load down a geared hub enough they will give out.
 
what geared hub were you using?
Some are more tolerant than others.

That's a huge amp jump. The 5mph limitation probably helped some.
 
It was a Vinka fat bike hub 500 watt on their website it seems to be the most heavy-duty hub they make. I will steer clear of anything they make after seeing how this hub was made to fail. The bafang 1000 watt hub seems somewhat reliable but some people pushing the limits seem to be able to shear woodruff key in those also.
 
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