So yesterday my ebike was running fine and i let batteries charge over night. I have 12s lipos 10c 10ah multistars, well now the bike is deciding not to run at all today twist the throttle nothing happens, i checked all the soldered connections and connectors and they are all connected properly even resoldered the connections and still not a thing hhappening, only things that are actually working is the volt display on throttle and the lights, i checked phase wires, throttle wires and all are connected and making contact but the stupid frocker wont send power to the motor, there is not even any voltage drop on the volt display. This is so irritating me, i fix one thing and another problem occurs, i see this process over and over and over and over again and it is getting very frock-ing old.
Throttle wont send power to motor all of a sudden
- Thread starter cody196
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tomjasz
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Buy quality parts. BTW put you location in your prifile. You never know someone may live clse and help.
That looks like the exact kit I bought a few months ago -- thought I'd start out cheap and then upgrade if it was fun. Now I've upgraded my controller to a grinfineon with a CA3.cody196 said:would you know of any controllers that would work with my ebike kit whichi s this? That are above 50 amps?tomjasz said:
Very happy so far. I had to switch to new connectors going to the motor, but the wire colors even matched up for me. Hardly any effort to switch.But if you plan to put 50A through that motor, you're braver than I am! That battery wire and motor wire are awfully thin to handle even close to that amount of current.
If you mean a resistor in the controller burned, and it's one of the big ones near the main input capacitors, the most common reason I've seen that happen* is from reversing the input power (hooking the batteries up backwards). So if it is possible at all to accidentally reverse your battery connections, you might want to ensure that can't happen. (This usually also blows FETs and other parts, sometimes desolders the shunt, etc).
(*other than overvoltage, which is probably not the case here)
There's other reasons those big resistors can burn too, and sometimes they look burned when they are not, so the smell could just be from burned FETs.
If it's FETs only, then that can happen from shorted phase wires (at connectors or at the wire entering the axle, etc), among other things. Overheating, overvoltage, etc.
(*other than overvoltage, which is probably not the case here)
There's other reasons those big resistors can burn too, and sometimes they look burned when they are not, so the smell could just be from burned FETs.
If it's FETs only, then that can happen from shorted phase wires (at connectors or at the wire entering the axle, etc), among other things. Overheating, overvoltage, etc.
That's how they are designed--that wire normally goes there.
i mean the metal part on resister must of touched the wire cause coating of the wire must of been melted off then it made contact and arced out, i was riding fine thursday and then friday it wouldnt work and turns out that burnt out or something and it wont do shit since
cody196 said:
I can't clearly see the traces on the PCB from the VCC pad, but you can use your multimeter on continuity or diode test to verify this:
Normally, on the controllers I've worked on, the red "ignition" or "keyswitch" wire connects to one end of that resistor, so it could be irrelevant whether it touches the metal on the resistor, as it is already "touching" it via the PCB traces, as long as it was at the same end the traces connect to.
If it touched the *other* end of the resistor, then the resistor wouldn't have smoked, but the low-voltage-power-supply stuff (where the transformer and transistor / regulator / etc are) could have, because the resistor would have no longer been "shielding" those parts from the full voltage of the battery.
The insulation on the red wire looks like it could've been damaged just from the heat of the resistor itself.
Unless the wire was loose and floating around in the case (not soldered to the PCB at the VCC pad anymore), then it doesn't appear to be able to have caused the burn damage on the PCB that's visible in the pics.
It actually looks like the resistor got so hot that the solder melted on one end, and then the solder blob touched something else and vaporized--my guess is ground. You can check the various pads in the vicinity to see if they are ground or other non-battery-voltage pads (just measure with continuity setting from the pad in question to ground, etc).
If the resistor is simply fried from heat, which can happen when a controller is run on a higher voltage than the resistor used was calculated for by the manufacturer (no idea how they figure this out for your specific controller), then you can replace the resistor with the value printed on the bottom of the PCB, which is 100ohms, 1watt. I'd use a ceramic resistor; they take heat better without burning.
Then retest the controller (just power it up, without reconnecting it to the motor, just battery) and see what happens. If the controller is already unusable, well, it cant hurt anything, right?
Then you can test the 5v and other stuff with a voltmeter and see if they're ok, and then go from there.
The thing is, there's most likely a good reason the resistor burned...and taht wire is probably not it.
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