TSDZ full suspension mount it as buffang

gordone

10 W
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Oct 1, 2021
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From what I understand Buffang has not any problem to be mounted on a full suspension frame where the rear arm is swinging... correct?

I see some place the TSDZ motor upwards so its laying on the frame.. but I see people report cracks after a while.. I guess it get to much torque here its not design to get it...

So if I have understood it correct is these the best way of doing it ?
Using a angel grinder and make it like a lock washer ?

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Is that correct understood?

So then can I place the TSDZ level to ground ?

Or is it better options ?

Thank you all :)
 
gordone said:
From what I understand Buffang has not any problem to be mounted on a full suspension frame where the rear arm is swinging... correct? .....

Or is it better options ?

...
Imho your method isn't the most simple methode.
What must be done is to made the contact surfaces less smooth.
You can do this with a grinder, but imho the methode of Waynemarlow is more subtle and less destructive because no material is removed as is the case with a grinder.
He uses a centre punch and a hammer for this

See his posts about this subject
 
Bigwheel said:
I have been running TSDZ2's up against the down tube on steel and alum frame bikes for years with no ill affects.

I also talked with Eco Cycles they also advise me to the same, but use som rubber inbetween to take away vibration, have you also done that?

I have seen some other report that people have got the a crack in he housing...

How many watts are you using ? Maybe size of the front sprocket has something to say also...
 
Elinx said:
gordone said:
From what I understand Buffang has not any problem to be mounted on a full suspension frame where the rear arm is swinging... correct? .....

Or is it better options ?

...
Imho your method isn't the most simple methode.
What must be done is to made the contact surfaces less smooth.
You can do this with a grinder, but imho the methode of Waynemarlow is more subtle and less destructive because no material is removed as is the case with a grinder.
He uses a centre punch and a hammer for this

See his posts about this subject

Thank you :)

I`m thinking not doing anything and just turn it against the front tube... ?
 
gordone said:
.....just turn it against the front tube... ?
For a secure fit, you can do all,
Glue some (hard) rubber between engine and tube and hammer some punches to prevent loosening of the nut.

Imho the loosening of the nut is the main reason for the chance on enginecase breaking.
From own experience I know that the nut can become a bit looser after some time
 
I never bothered with any type of pad between the housing and the down tube. The two motors I use have never shown any stress of the housing. I use both 52v and 48v batteries @ 15A so nothing outrageous. I never did anything extra to the stock bb fittings either but did keep an eye on the ring nut and kept it hammer tap tight. For sure keep an eye on the crank bolts also!

I figured out a way to mod a Lekkie offset style 42t chainring using the original spider that made for the best possible chainline for the lower gear ratios which for where I ride the bike was important.
 
Does anyone know if the Bafang and Tonsheng attachment plate on the non-drive side is the same, or similar? I need to remove my TSDZ torque arm thing to fit a kickstand and saw this replacement combination side plate and torque arm for the BBSHD: https://california-ebike.com/products/california-ebike-stabilizer-bar-for-bbs02-or-bbshd

Also do they have the same lockring and threading on the non-drive side? I like the double nut arrangement on the Bafang, but can't find the thread size for both. I think the Tongsheng is M30 metric.
 
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