TSDZ2 8-pin to 6-pin Conversion

[2WheelFun]

Wanted to share my recent experience replacing a TSDZ2 8-pin controller with a 6-pin version. My 8-pin controller bit the dust and when I tried to purchase a replacement, I discovered there are none to be found in the US. All the normal suppliers I have used in the past all show "out of stock". I don't know if this is a result of recent embargos or what but gives me concern for future maintenance/repair. I did not want to order from China with the uncertainty and wait times involved with that. In any case found a 6-pin controller for sale at https://www.johnnynerdout.com/ and ordered that. I hardwired the 8-pin connector from my old controller following the excellent how-to at Wire KT LCD3 to TSDZ2 written by Casainho awhile back that shows the pin-outs and wire colors for each. The only problem I had to work through was with my brake cutout switches. I have cable brakes which used the Hall Effect sensors with the cable running through the switch housing. Casainho described these as "hidden brake sensor" which I did not know what he meant at the time. I did not reconnect the 5V wire when doing the conversion which is needed for the Hall Effect sensor which caused them to always show the brakes were on and so the controller would not allow the motor to run. I could either try to solder the 5v wire to the proper place on the 6-pin controller board (in effect making it a 8-pin) or change out the brake levers to just on/off mechanical switch type. I opted for the second choice and all is now well.
Hopefully the TSDZ2 will not need any repair in the near future. Is anyone else having problems finding parts for mid-drives from US suppliers?

 

[dgc]

On my TSDZ2 where I have used the standard VLCD5 display with the Tongsheng hydraulic brake sensors plugged in the back which are two wire, to that end when I use the DZ41 Display I buy a spare 6 way display cable and graft brake sensors lead into the display cable by soldering the sensors wires to the black GND and the purple BRAKE wires.
Now the question, are these Hall Effect sensors NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed), when you ride an e bike which has a brake sensor input which normally would be NO input, so you plug a NC brake sensor and the magnet that on the brake lever holds the sensor in the NO position.

 

[2WheelFun]

DGC, when I unplugged the hall effect sensors from my system the "brake" indication on my 860C display went away. This indicates that they are NC when unpowered. They must need the 5V supplied to them to be open the circuit. I wanted to maintain the brake cutouts on my system so went with the brake levers with mechanical switch.

 

[dgc]

WheelFun, hi there, I assume on the 8 pin cable that if your hall effect sensor is wired correctly to the 5v supply, the brake signal (green) and the GND (black) then all that is needed when the brake lever is pulled is for the magnetic field to disappear thus switching the HE transistor from the NO to NC state. Only difference would be to use the purple wire for the brake signal on the 6 pin cable. The brake indication will go out when you unplug the sensor other wise one would not be able to power the motor up if no brakes sensors are fitted. The HE sensor will need I assume all three wires the 5V, brake signal and GND, looks like with no 5V the HE sensor will fail safe to NC.

 

[2WheelFun]

DGC, I think you have it explained correctly. The 5V and throttle wires are not included on the 6 pin connector motor controller board. I would have had to scrape away a bit of the conformal coating on the printed circuit board in order to solder wires to supply those signals. I wasn't inclined to do that and am happy enough with the different brake levers which I already had in my "collection" of bike parts.

 

[dgc]

WheelFun, Yep, have a few boxes of bits and pieces, alright lifting lacquer coating but potting compounds another game, have collected a number of TSDZ2(B) parts including controllers, main gears etc.