Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

[AussieJester]

G'day Gents...I spent yesterday cleaning my workshop, it is all nice and clean and organised once again
and best of all fiberglass dust FREE..I also cut up my remaining curb side bikes (8 in total)
kept the small bottom brackets and head tubes for new projects some of the larger tubes a few rims and hubs
and the rest is piled ready for scrap metal merchant to collect.

I have some pictures from last week of the battery enclosure mounting along with a left hand freewheel adapter
i knocked up this morning-->

Update

The original battery enclosure mounting brackets i made were too narrow, so were scrapped in
favour of new wider mounts. I have incorporated some 10mm aluminium into the mount
setup also, heres the pics i took of the procedure-->

I will actually be making a small alteration, the middle two sets of cap screws are the ones that hold the
enclosure to the ali mounts, these will be scrapped, two fresh holes will be drilled (narrower again) and tapped with 8mm tap
what i SHOULD of done in the first place, the moment i had finished whacking the 8mm drill bit
through these i realised i had frocked up. None the less, not a major issue to rectify, shall re-drill and tap them
slap a lil resin and glass inside the enclosure to block the current holes and redo them WHY?, makes it a shit load easier
to remove the batter enclosure, 4 bolts instead of 8 and no nuts used to fasten the enclosure to frame mounts.

OK..on to the manual pedal drive train, i usually don't do any work on weekends
but i was inspired by a nice clean workshop so i tackled the left hand thread
freewheel adapter for the southpaw freewheel this afternoon...

I have used a bottom bracket bearing cup for the adapter along with a disk brake
mount i fabbed up for the trike hub (in pic) using a front dual disk brake hub
from Choppers US. You could make a round plate and drill the disk brake mount
holes from scratch but i had this already and it wont see use again so it was "re-purposed"

As can be seen in the final pic the clearance is minimal, it actually wont be as bad as
pictured, the bolts used to hold the disk and adapter to the 3 speed hub are button head cap
screws, they protrude up a good 8mm I will swap these out and replace them with counter sunk
cap screws gaining another 4-5mm clearance. I new it would be tight fit, i thought it would go though
and it does so i am please about that.

I'll make the minor adjustments to the battery enclosure mounting tomorrow, i also need to
re-think or rather redo the lid arrangement, the hinge i have installed now is not going to cut it. The
battery enclosure being raised doesn't allow as much room to access the enclosure as i thought it would
SO, i will glass up the recess for the hinge along with the mounting holes, glass in some aluminium plate
that ill drill and tap holes in for some thumb screws too screw into, the lid will then
be fully removable for easy access to batteries and electronics.

Thats it for this afternoon fellas...ill be back tomorrow ...hopefully, with some more to report
i reeeeally must bite the bullet and notch the chain stays tomorrow also, has to be done :: sigh ::

KiM

 

[enoob]

this kinda feels like when i was younger and some girl i liked was soaking up attention from some tough guy .

guys just all over it and im staring in envy.

ima have to quit my job to get a good start on this thing .

and lets not start on the home grown pain meds. i hear you guys have good genetics down there kinda like here (double )carpentry and back problems go together like marriage and abstinence and my homeopathic doctor prefers natural pain relief . god bless him.
we get started and i just may have to visit the rellys in perth and drop by for a pain med comparison

 

[Grinhill]

I like that freewheel adapter Kim.

Were there any tricks to getting the bits aligned and clamped while welding? It looks like it would be easy for a lesser mortal to cock that up if they attempted it.

 

[AussieJester]

haha yes would be easy to get it wrong, clamping would be a good idea, the advantage
over using the adapter i used instead of cutting my own disk was it has a lil circle
on it if you look closely at the pic you might pick it up? This just happened to be the
same diameter as the threaded piece so i aligned it up held it by hand tacked it twice checked it
hadnt move then fully welded it. I think you can buy these adapter can't you? Im sure i have seen them
somewhere on ES before, Matt possibly? Would be the easier route for those without a welder anywayz.


KiM

 

[AussieJester]

Update

Well..i been puting it off and puting it off ...today i bit the bullet
and cut into the chain stays...

They were cut (apologies the pic i took of the cut sections was blurry
and thus i haven't posted it) none the less, i cut sections from the chain
stays cut a piece of 20mmx 50mm x2mm plate and welded it in place
before cleaning it up with a flap disk ...Pics #5 through to #6 show
both the clearance gained PLUS the chain and belt alignment... YUP im
quite chuffed @ the result we now have mega clearance, dunno why
i was worried really, it all ended up well in the end

Great friend of mine rocked around @ 1pm today so had to cut the day
short....

Ill be cutting up the springer front fork tomorrow :-|

KiM

 

[Hyena]

Ill be cutting up the springer front fork tomorrow :-|

What, why ?!

 

[AussieJester]

Ill be cutting up the springer front fork tomorrow :-|

What, why ?!

I'm upgrading them, the fork tube pivots are to be replaced with a 1/2 in hyme joints
in order to do this both fork tubes need to be replaced, if i simply cut the plate off the bottom and slotted in hyme
joints they would be a few inches short, tiz not as dramatic as it sounds, really quite a simple job
cut tubes off, reem out the holes & slide in new slightly longer tubes then weldz them up, making the jig
to hold everything straight will take longer than replacing the tubes TBH... pssst...will sand and polish
the replacement tubes prior to welding them in place, can you guess why

KiM

 

[enoob]

i smell bling comin

CHROME ?

 

[AussieJester]

i smell bling comin

CHROME ?

close...nickel plating ;-P Everyone does chrome, the nice gold colour will contrast nicely against electric blue
paint...I thought if i do the forks (or part of them anywayz) i was originally thinking just the springer tubes springs and rockers along with a few other pieces, the actuator pivot front bottom bracket and handle bars... be some nice 'accents' to the bike i think... will give me 3 main colours, silver in the rims blue frame and the nickel components. The nickel will also match up nicely with the gold anodising on the outrunner

I have to put off the forks today though, i had word from Matt. P he should be able to make it up today with his spare 5mm pitch belt to help me work out the exact size i will need for the cruiser SO i will knock up the idler wheel today for the belt drive setup TOTALLY forgot about this, i want it fully adjustable so belt tension is done with the idler rather than moving the rear wheel back and forth, like wise i will also have a tensioner on the manual chain drive side for adjusting chain tension..


More soon

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

Update

So..what do you get if you 'cross' a old brake lever, a couple of scooter wheel bearings, axles and spring from the stand
with some 10mm aluminium plate and some tube from some old exercise equipment? A belt tensioner of course!
Everything used n this tensioner was found on kerbside EXCEPT for the aluminium plate Matt .P gave me that...

Total cost in parts .. $AU0.00


I may need to pick up a heavier spring, it has about double the tension of the old brake lever tensioner
from my trike, no biggy Hardware sells an assortment of different size/tension springs.

Matt.P was up yesterday we messed about finding the correct drive belt size Matt has
ordered the belt for me and a 40tooth pulley for the drive output... Big thanks to Matt for his time and
calculating the gearing, according to the calculator top speed should be in the vicinity
of 65km/hr in 3rd and in the mid 40's for 2nd...

Back later with more...

KiM

 

[Hyena]

Sorry but that looks crap





















.... NAAAUGHT
How do you get a 10mm bar so neat and round ? Are you just using a grinding disc in the angle grinder or something else ?
I guess Al is easier to work with than steel, but still, everything you do comes out flawless!

 

[AussieJester]

.... NAAAUGHT
How do you get a 10mm bar so neat and round ? Are you just using a grinding disc in the angle grinder or something else ?

Rough shape is cut with a 125mmx1.0mm cuttoff disk on the angle grinder before being shaped on a linisher and then finished by hand on a flat surface with sandpaper...DAMNIT!! now Other Doc knows the beavers arent doing it DOH!!!

Cheers mate

KiM

 

[enoob]

Update

So..what do you get if you 'cross' a old brake lever, a couple of scooter wheel bearings, axles and spring from the stand
with some 10mm aluminium plate and some tube from some old exercise equipment?

A trebuchet ? got a neighbor you want lay siege to ?
http://www.naturelich.com/archives/images/trebuchet.jpg

ahh ya that woulda been funny if id posted it faster.

and i thought i was good at making old new again .
ahh humble pie . it tastes soo..... familiar

 

[AussieJester]

HAHAHA...i seen a few Trebuchet made and fail on Scrap Heap challenge the last 12 months or so 'PROPER JOOOOB'<--fans of the show will get this...

...I have some EXCELLENT news on the time frame for initial test rides! It has been bought forward considerably...I am having the necessary funds deposited in my bank account this afternoon to cover entire cost of batteries!

8 Turnigy packs ran into 480 ish dollars plus 80 bucks freight ... invoice As can be seen i have grabbed a few extra items for wiring up the box (unfortunately 4mm bullet connectors are on back orer so opted for 3.5mm for the miscellaneous connections) ...one step closer to full GanGSTA 8) status LoL... Hopefully this wont entail KFF (kentucky fried fingers) as well

KiM

 

[Grinhill]

4mm bullet connectors are on back orer so opted for 3.5mm for the miscellaneous connections

Sorry mate, I must have got the last ones.

And what's with the no black 10g wire available, I found the same thing had to just get red as well. This will highly increase the chance of KFF.

(Must remember to put some black heatshrink over the BLACK red wire, not the RED red wire... :lol: )

 

[AussieJester]

(Must remember to put some black heatshrink over the BLACK red wire, not the RED red wire... :lol: )

Im covering all wires with cable sleeving (have shitload of it keft over from my pc modding days)so ill be using red heat shrink on the ends of positive and black on the negative wires so no biggy would of only bought one colour either way

 

[Jeremy Harris]

Kim,

If you're a fan of "Scrapheap", then take a look at this episode: http://www.channel4.com/programmes/scrapheap-challenge/4od#2923093

You may just spot a name that looks familiar...................

Keep posting about your build, your ingenuity and workmanship make this thread a "must read" for me every day!

Jeremy

 

[AussieJester]

YUP i seen you in that Jeremy , i have every episode of the English ScrapHeap Challenge and also the American JunkYard Wars series also, fantastic show it actually airs on TV here each night at 6.30PM all repeats but i still have it on when im sitting at PC haha...cheers mate

Update

Nothing major done today fellas sorry, mate dropped in this morning at 11am
so took it easy in the workshop, managed to make a mount for the belt tensioner
as always few pics of it setup can be seen below...

I used the cut belt Matt.P has loaned
me (One used to 'add' teeth to the pulley with epoxy) Taped together
to check belt alignment (new correct size belt is on order -Thx Matt )

Bere in mind also fellas, i also have a 40 tooth pulley on order for the reduction drive
output, the one seen in picture is 20 tooth...(OH haha ignore the artine penned flames
on the battery box too)

Mount has been welded in place... (drilled 3x 10mm hole in center of mount and spot welded it
in place on chain stays) The alignment is excellent :: fingers crossed:: i wont have any issues with it...
Some eagle eyed members might not i have also replaced the spring on the tensioner, I was at Coventries
Fasteners yesterday and spotted the one now in use in a pile of stock that had been removed from the shelf
and stacked in boxes in front of the counter, nice chromed version and slightly stiffer than the scooter stand
spring...COST $AU0.00 the counter hopper said i could have it they had written the contents off and no longer selling
Springs..

More Soon folks

KiM

 

[liveforphysics]

Even through my swine-flu attacked half closed eyes, I'm once again blown away at the quality and ingenuity of your work.

Looking at those pulley ratios, you're going to have some insane torque. That HXT motor isn't like an Astro, it makes really serious torque. I don't see that tire slippin, and with the frame layout, I don't see it wanting to wheelie, which means you're going to have a point-n-shoot KiM rocket on your hands. That's a good thing in my book

Keep up the fantastic work! And when you want to double the speed on that fantastic machine, add sensors, re-configure the packs for 100v, and it's double speed time.

The world needs more KiM rockets.

 

[Miles]

Looking good, Kim.

The only change I'd suggest is to increase the diameter of the belt's idler pulley. The rule of thumb is 2.5 times the diameter of the smallest drive pulley.

It will work fine, as it is, but the belt life will be shortened.

 

[AussieJester]

Luke i hope you get better soon bud FLU suxz balls... we finished out
"cold season" in OZ summer now thank frock... And yes the ratio
is setup for acceleration it should pull bloody hard ALSO buddy..Matt has
worked out the pulley size for the rear wheel for 120km/hr Top speeds, Local supplier has
the pulleys to WOOT so ready to ROX gear wise when i add second motor LOOKOUT DoC Bass ...

Off to Drags tomorrow Luke, Nostalgica running show and shine and classic speedway all in one show,
have printed out pics and lil write up to show organisers to see if they will let me run
the bike on 'Wednesday Nights' (anything goes Night...run what you bring cost $25 bucks)
will give me a legit timed run which is what people want ......

Miles...cheers mate...shall dig through the 'spare parts' and add another sealed bearing that will make it 3 wide and about what you recommend..should do the trick

KiM

 

[Miles]

Diameter, not width :wink:

If you've got some delrin you could put on the bearings, like a tyre, that would be good. Anyway, it's not an urgent thing...

 

[Hyena]

looking good mate. That back triangle is starting to look VERY complicated and mad scientisty with all the mounts, the spring for your seat suspension, all the reduction gear, you tensioner, the motor etc
It looks pretty close to the tyre in the pics, is there enough room to fit a mud guard down to the level of your tensioner ? I guess you won't be taking it off road but you still don't want water and general grime spraying up all over those keys bits

 

[AussieJester]

looking good mate. is there enough room to fit a mud guard down to the level of your tensioner ?

Thanks mate, and yes HEAPS will slide a nice custom fiberclass mud guard down in there to protect my CNC Pr0n Tiz all going to plan ...i be making an identical tensioner (with exception of sealed bearings) for the manual drive chain too, i have polyethylene here to make a roller from for that to keep the chain taught and happy..not that it will see alot of revolutions haha... Gotta say im starting to get excited now i can see the first test ride is closing in!!! Im looking at 3 weeks i think (freight times dependent...) FULL GanGSTA 8) Status imminent

EDIT: SOZ Miles missed your post their buddy...Diameter GOTCHA...I have polyethylene i was using on the CNC mill i shall cut 'wheels' from that i can recess for bearings on the bench drill! cheers again...

KiM

 

[John in CR]

Kim,

Everything is coming along great. I'm especially looking forward to hearing how that suspended seat arrangement works out. I ride my hardtail every day even though the bumps kill me. Plus I'm sure that my weight slamming the entire structure at every bump isn't good, especially for my hub motor bearings.

You might think about building that entire rear drive assembly with the wheel and all for resale. There would definitely be a market at the right price.

John