Kabbage said:
If you could find a switch that's double throw (the kind with 3 terminals), you could make the NC side of the switch discharge the cap.
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- Thread starter xyster
- Start date
If you could find a switch that's double throw (the kind with 3 terminals), you could make the NC side of the switch discharge the cap.
For a trigger throttle, I think it's important that the motor power stops immediately when you let off the trigger. At the same time, if you have it dump the capacitor every time you let off, it could be annoying if you let off only for a short time and wanted to go again. You'd have to wait for it to ramp up again.
It should be possible to do both things. Once you get up to speed, if you let off, it could ramp down at a rate roughly equal to how fast the bike slows down. If you hit the trigger quickly enough, the motor would spin up relatively quickly. Ideally, it would sense the speed and come up to match it instantly. If you let off long enough, it would just go back to zero. Anytime you let off, it kills the motor instantly like the ebrake swtich and coasts.
This would be a great project for one of those little Audrio things, but that's kind of overkill. It can be done with analog parts but make take quite a few parts to have all the functions. I'll see if I can come up with something simple, yet still does the desired things. I could use such a thing myself.
It should be possible to do both things. Once you get up to speed, if you let off, it could ramp down at a rate roughly equal to how fast the bike slows down. If you hit the trigger quickly enough, the motor would spin up relatively quickly. Ideally, it would sense the speed and come up to match it instantly. If you let off long enough, it would just go back to zero. Anytime you let off, it kills the motor instantly like the ebrake swtich and coasts.
This would be a great project for one of those little Audrio things, but that's kind of overkill. It can be done with analog parts but make take quite a few parts to have all the functions. I'll see if I can come up with something simple, yet still does the desired things. I could use such a thing myself.
Kabbage
100 W
fechter said:
Teklektik has been helping me over at http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50843&start=25#p797683. He's come up with a new circuit that works really well - tried it out today, it's great.
he's also come up with an 'more improved' version at http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50843&start=25#p798080, but my experience tonight with that one is that it takes a lot of buggerising around, for not a lot of benefit.
Help, please! Eager to ride my bike but cant make it start.
I have bought the conversion set at a local bicycle shop at china. 48v 350 w.
We solved the meaning of most of the cables, but still not enough to make the engine work.
Does anyone have a clue of what might number 1, 2, 10 and 12 might be?
Regards,
Oliver
I have bought the conversion set at a local bicycle shop at china. 48v 350 w.
We solved the meaning of most of the cables, but still not enough to make the engine work.
Does anyone have a clue of what might number 1, 2, 10 and 12 might be?
Regards,
Oliver
dnmun
1 PW
cero said:
how does the switch know when the charger has balanced the battery? does this setup cut off before the balancing current can balance the pack?
Voltage type PAS:
I'm looking for a PAS do add to an Adaptto controller that do not have a PAS input.
My only need is to turn off the motor when the pedals are not spinning so the PAS have to act as a switch and while the pedal are spinning the speed of the e-bike will be regulated only with the throttle.
I found this voltage type PAS:
http://www.ebay.it/itm/221456399246?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.it%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26ghostText%3D%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D221456399246%26_rdc%3D1
It seem that the PAS module is only a voltage out module, 1-4 volts depending on speed of pedaling.
I would ask here on this thread if anybody can advice me about a circuit diagram or a transistor that can be activated by the voltage of the pas, this transistor will drive the coil of a relay that could be used as a switch to connect the throttle signal wire to the controller while pedaling and disconnect it when the pedals are stationary.
I'm looking for a PAS do add to an Adaptto controller that do not have a PAS input.
My only need is to turn off the motor when the pedals are not spinning so the PAS have to act as a switch and while the pedal are spinning the speed of the e-bike will be regulated only with the throttle.
I found this voltage type PAS:
http://www.ebay.it/itm/221456399246?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.it%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26ghostText%3D%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D221456399246%26_rdc%3D1
It seem that the PAS module is only a voltage out module, 1-4 volts depending on speed of pedaling.
I would ask here on this thread if anybody can advice me about a circuit diagram or a transistor that can be activated by the voltage of the pas, this transistor will drive the coil of a relay that could be used as a switch to connect the throttle signal wire to the controller while pedaling and disconnect it when the pedals are stationary.
agniusm
1 MW
)
tomjasz
1 GW
I now own a couple of hub motors and shrink wrap batteries. I've been advised to fuse the pos lead from the batt to the controller. as well as fuse the "ignition" (his label) and add a switch.
SO, on looking through a few pages I don't see any reference. I have a 13S 4P batt and a Lyen 9FET 60A controller and a 48V MXUS 1000W XF39 front motor.
One suggestion was a 65 or 70A Fuse. Another was for a blade style automotive fuse on the switched lead as well.
What to do?
SO, on looking through a few pages I don't see any reference. I have a 13S 4P batt and a Lyen 9FET 60A controller and a 48V MXUS 1000W XF39 front motor.
One suggestion was a 65 or 70A Fuse. Another was for a blade style automotive fuse on the switched lead as well.
What to do?
The switched lead typically takes under 100mA, so something like 1/2A fuse should be good there.
On the main, fuse should be rated slightly higher than the maximum expected draw. 70A sounds right if you can find one.
A 12v automotive fuse may not be good at that voltage. If the fuse blows, there's a chance it will draw an arc and turn into a miniature arc welder. 13s might be OK though. At higher voltages, you would want a fuse with a DC voltage rating higher than the pack. These tend to be very expensive.
Circuit breakers made for solar panels are another option.
On the main, fuse should be rated slightly higher than the maximum expected draw. 70A sounds right if you can find one.
A 12v automotive fuse may not be good at that voltage. If the fuse blows, there's a chance it will draw an arc and turn into a miniature arc welder. 13s might be OK though. At higher voltages, you would want a fuse with a DC voltage rating higher than the pack. These tend to be very expensive.
Circuit breakers made for solar panels are another option.
Hi all sorry if my question or request is what you always get but I'm just starting out on a project I've been working since an accident I had a few years ago building a bike using solidworks, designed and built my CNC milling machine and now I need to figure out how my motor is going to work...
I'm looking at getting a GnG mid drive motor which I think are 36v but if you get the correct controller it gets up to 48v I will need the bike to be torque than speed.. I want to limit the amount of batteries needed as it will be circuit racing up and down a hill.. I would like to change the batteries on the fly..if needed I'm not looking for distance .. Maybe 500m up a fire road and free wheel down
I'm looking for a general wiring schematic so I can CAD up my ideas with battery mid drive monitor, controllers, throttle and all that nice stuff .. I'm at a stage in my design where I need to know where the important stuff for the drive is mounted and wired in, creat my wiring harness, battery wiring series or parallel,
Basically if I know how the batteries are wired to creat a series or to creat a parallel and how the hook up to the BMS card it should be easier have a friend that can help with other stuff I hope
Thanks in advance
I'm looking at getting a GnG mid drive motor which I think are 36v but if you get the correct controller it gets up to 48v I will need the bike to be torque than speed.. I want to limit the amount of batteries needed as it will be circuit racing up and down a hill.. I would like to change the batteries on the fly..if needed I'm not looking for distance .. Maybe 500m up a fire road and free wheel down
I'm looking for a general wiring schematic so I can CAD up my ideas with battery mid drive monitor, controllers, throttle and all that nice stuff .. I'm at a stage in my design where I need to know where the important stuff for the drive is mounted and wired in, creat my wiring harness, battery wiring series or parallel,
Basically if I know how the batteries are wired to creat a series or to creat a parallel and how the hook up to the BMS card it should be easier have a friend that can help with other stuff I hope
Thanks in advance
ebikecrazed
1 µW
EBIKE SCHEMATIC 1.png
Hi I am trying to finish my Lightning Rods Ebike build.. but have a request:
I want to run 5s2p - 92.5v with 10 x 8000mah Turnigy Lipos. - and i want to bulk charge them with a single Icharger 3010B...
So my question is: how can i run 5s2p and then change to 10p for bulk charging... with a minimum of dissconnecting of plugs - and messing with wiring...or fancy switches.
trying to keep it simple and foolproof
any suggestions? how do you do it? guys running 5s2p??
thanks!
and so here is a possible solution i thought up.. will it work? could i get some feedback on it? thanks.
the idea is to leave the parallel charging harness hooked up to the batts. (but not connected to anything) while runing with the batts in series. and for charging - dissconnect the batts series jumpers and connect the parallel harness to the charger. will it work>>>???
I want to run 5s2p - 92.5v with 10 x 8000mah Turnigy Lipos. - and i want to bulk charge them with a single Icharger 3010B...
So my question is: how can i run 5s2p and then change to 10p for bulk charging... with a minimum of dissconnecting of plugs - and messing with wiring...or fancy switches.
trying to keep it simple and foolproof
any suggestions? how do you do it? guys running 5s2p??
thanks!
and so here is a possible solution i thought up.. will it work? could i get some feedback on it? thanks.
the idea is to leave the parallel charging harness hooked up to the batts. (but not connected to anything) while runing with the batts in series. and for charging - dissconnect the batts series jumpers and connect the parallel harness to the charger. will it work>>>???
Hmm, no it will not work like that. In the series configuration, all the cells are shorted.
There's quite a lot of info in the battery subforum where people post their questions about battery builds and such, as well as the various RC LiPo noob and care threads, some in the skateboard forums, etc.
You might want to use search terms like
+series +parallel +LiPo +charge
and see what comes up. (there will be a lot, but you can refine it further with other terms that meet your specific needs)
You might want to use search terms like
+series +parallel +LiPo +charge
and see what comes up. (there will be a lot, but you can refine it further with other terms that meet your specific needs)
Hi,
I have a specialized stumpjumper FSR expert 2009. He's for the moment electrified with a Nine continant RH205D 10x6, a 28A controler and a 48V 15Ah battery.
I have a new battery 48V 30Ah 60A continu 120A peak and i want to boost my bike.
I have a new Kelly controler KEB48300X but manual is not rather precise and lack of information (for me)...
What i want (if possible):
-The motor is writte 2kW so i want to make it run at 40A continu and maybe 60A in Boost.
-I want to use a 3 ways switch (called BRK on my plans) whith one position "standby" RTN to BRK SW without cutting main (to have lights when i make break) and one position "boost" +5V to BRK SW.
-How work boost & what is the difference between this boost and the automatical 10s boost?
-My plan is ok?
-How to configure controler to work like that?
P.S. If someone know orders of hall sensors and wires motors for RH205D for not trying all combinaison when i connect it on KEB.
Sorry for the English, i'm French...
Thanks
Mickael
I have a specialized stumpjumper FSR expert 2009. He's for the moment electrified with a Nine continant RH205D 10x6, a 28A controler and a 48V 15Ah battery.
I have a new battery 48V 30Ah 60A continu 120A peak and i want to boost my bike.
I have a new Kelly controler KEB48300X but manual is not rather precise and lack of information (for me)...
What i want (if possible):
-The motor is writte 2kW so i want to make it run at 40A continu and maybe 60A in Boost.
-I want to use a 3 ways switch (called BRK on my plans) whith one position "standby" RTN to BRK SW without cutting main (to have lights when i make break) and one position "boost" +5V to BRK SW.
-How work boost & what is the difference between this boost and the automatical 10s boost?
-My plan is ok?
-How to configure controler to work like that?
P.S. If someone know orders of hall sensors and wires motors for RH205D for not trying all combinaison when i connect it on KEB.
Sorry for the English, i'm French...
Thanks
Mickael
Attachments
I find some answers to my questions.
KEB and KBS boost are not the same. On KBS, boost up Imax to 60% but on KEB, boost is just equivalent to put accelerator at 100% (interests???).
In my case, I am going to make the opposite, I am going to configure the intensity to the double of the intensity Max (80A) and would serve me as the Eco function to divide it by 2 for a "normal" use at 40A under 48V or 2kW.
Think you the RH205D support the "mode" 80A that will be use very punctually or do I have to watch the temperature with the hand (I have no temperature sensor)?
Thanks
k-harvey
100 W
For a friend who is an electrical wize ---does anyone have a circuit Diagram for LiFePo4 cell regular BMS's --
---from 8s up to 16s.-----
---from 8s up to 16s.-----
knurn
1 mW
I have a Golden Motor 901 kit (48V LiFe battery, 1000w motor) on my ebike.
I added two projection LED lights as headlights.
I would like to add a horn and motorcycle running lights, turn signals and brake light.
These will be led lights and run off the 48V battery as the energy source.
The horn and leds will be 12V automotive accessories.
Where can I get circuit schematics so I can build this lighting system?
thanks in advance,
kim
I added two projection LED lights as headlights.
I would like to add a horn and motorcycle running lights, turn signals and brake light.
These will be led lights and run off the 48V battery as the energy source.
The horn and leds will be 12V automotive accessories.
Where can I get circuit schematics so I can build this lighting system?
thanks in advance,
kim
There have been a number of discussions about that. One way to find them is to search for
"turn signals" headlight
using the option to search within both subjects and message text, and the option to display results as topic.
There will be quite a few results that aren't relevant, but also several that are, showing different ways to do it.
This thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71338
might be one,
Another might be this
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70730
And I'm sure there's detailed info in this thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36959
though you might be doing things differently these should help.
"turn signals" headlight
using the option to search within both subjects and message text, and the option to display results as topic.
There will be quite a few results that aren't relevant, but also several that are, showing different ways to do it.
This thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=71338
might be one,
Another might be this
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70730
And I'm sure there's detailed info in this thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36959
though you might be doing things differently these should help.
knurn
1 mW
Thanks again AW, I looked through your search results and it helped my understanding of the circuitry needed to use signal lights as running lights and turn signals.
Below is a diagram which meets most of my needs. A relay is added as a switch to make the running lights blink when the turn signal switch is turned on.
The solution shows swapping in LEDs (which is what I will be using) and a relay for the right running lights/turn signals. A second relay would be needed for the left side.
In this circuit the running lights come on when the ignition is turned on and the turn signals will work off the signal switch.
I want to add a separate switch to turn on the running lights and I want the signals to work if the running lights are on or not on.
Can I modify this circuit to meet these use cases:
Ignition on, running lights off, turn signals will work using turn signal switch
Ignition on, running lights on, turn signals will work using turn signal switch
kim
Below is a diagram which meets most of my needs. A relay is added as a switch to make the running lights blink when the turn signal switch is turned on.
The solution shows swapping in LEDs (which is what I will be using) and a relay for the right running lights/turn signals. A second relay would be needed for the left side.
In this circuit the running lights come on when the ignition is turned on and the turn signals will work off the signal switch.
I want to add a separate switch to turn on the running lights and I want the signals to work if the running lights are on or not on.
Can I modify this circuit to meet these use cases:
Ignition on, running lights off, turn signals will work using turn signal switch
Ignition on, running lights on, turn signals will work using turn signal switch
kim
pchen92
100 W
Hi,
I wired up my new kelly controller KBS72181E but I want to check two things before connecting my battery:
The wiring diagram is here http://kellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKBS-EUserManual.pdf p12, I connected RTN to B- battery, is it ok ? Because in the manual they say (on the left of the diagram) to don't connect GND to B- but GND is connected to RTN through neutral for halls.
Another question is regarding the CA. It was a CA-DPS, I removed the connector, I connected shunt+ and shunt-, I guess I have to connect the black wire to B-, so either at the same place as shunt+ or shunt-. Is it ok ?
http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/CycleAnalyst_V23Web.pdf
Thanks for your help ! 8)
I wired up my new kelly controller KBS72181E but I want to check two things before connecting my battery:
The wiring diagram is here http://kellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/KellyKBS-EUserManual.pdf p12, I connected RTN to B- battery, is it ok ? Because in the manual they say (on the left of the diagram) to don't connect GND to B- but GND is connected to RTN through neutral for halls.
Another question is regarding the CA. It was a CA-DPS, I removed the connector, I connected shunt+ and shunt-, I guess I have to connect the black wire to B-, so either at the same place as shunt+ or shunt-. Is it ok ?
http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/CycleAnalyst_V23Web.pdf
Thanks for your help ! 8)
