If you need a lot of power you could be dissapointed by $60 motors i'm afraid.John in CR said:My question regarding a dual motor rig is how wide is the operating band of good efficiency for these RC motors and do types of electric motors differ in this respect? I want to ride my bike like a car is driven when it comes hills, ie maintain speed to the extent possible. My thought is to use 2 of the $60 2400W motors instead of the $149 6kw motor. Then use a pair of clutch bearings to combine their output to a simple single drive train, whether it's a chain and sprockets, belts and pulleys, or planetary gears. That way I can use either motor or both with a relatively simple rig, giving me more power on demand for hills.
John in CR said:Also, how difficult is reversing these sensor-less motors...what about other brushless motors? I find the simplicity of the retro direct 2 gear system an elegant solution perfectly suited to electric motors that can be reversed. If it's relatively easy, then a dual motor rig in the high gear for most situations, while allowing a low gear for the steepest grades seems to make sense.
John
eP said:But the key issue would be efficiency - how much would be freewheel loss ? It shouldn't spoil efficiency at heavy loads, but at light loads it could be an issue i suppose.
Miles said:A wider span would be nicer. This is standard 3 speed ratios for a hub gear.
The hill to my house is 18%.........
One-way clutch bearings are pretty efficient when over-running, I think.
eP said:If you need a lot of power you could be dissapointed by $60 motors i'm afraid.
Very efficient motors should have very strong magnets and tight mechanical tolerances (high mounting precission/accuracy)
Two motors instead of single one is a bright idea, but you really need to know what you want achieve - clear goals.
Light low diameter motors have low inertion, so it shouldn't be hard to reverse them. But the key issue would be efficiency - how much would be freewheel loss ? It shouldn't spoil efficiency at heavy loads, but at light loads it could be an issue i suppose.
Best regards
John in CR said:ScottClarke hit 52mph with just one of the $60 1/2kg motors I'm thinking of, so with 2 I doubt power will be an issue even at my weight.
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I'm not going to quibble about a few % efficiency. Instead I want impressive acceleration and a top end of my choice, along with being able to take on hills like a mountain goat instead of slowing to a crawl.
Gears seem far better suited for that than electrical switching does though... I don't see why it is so hard to run a motor through the standard drive train, all it should take, is a jackshaft, that has room for three gears.
"Throttle Fiddling" is a valid technique... hard to do in practice without some kind of gauge of your current and it's something that works against the "urge" to turn the throttle wide open.cerewa said:Drop the throttle to a lower level and efficiency stays about the same.
I really don't think it would be that hard... I still am working on my e-bike, and don't have it in a ride-able condition yet. However, I do have a dirt bike, and I know that when I ride that (unless racing) I do not just open up the throttle and go. I use how ever much I need to reach a certain speed in a certain amount of time. I honestly think, that in the 4 years i've been riding my dirt bike, i've only fully opened the throttle a couple times (I guess it helps that it's a 40 horse motor though)...safe said:"Throttle Fiddling" is a valid technique... hard to do in practice without some kind of gauge of your current and it's something that works against the "urge" to turn the throttle wide open.cerewa said:Drop the throttle to a lower level and efficiency stays about the same.
cerewa said:One of the complaints that the singlespeed bike crowd has about multispeed bikes is that you lose efficiency when your chain that must run through derailleur pullies and get pushed left and right (rather than be on a rear cog that is always directly behind the front chainring). Plus, you lose reliability.
safe said:Wouldn't that be great?
Combine the RC motor with a CVT like NuVinci.
How inefficient is the NuVinci? It may be somewhat heavy, but can you explain how it's less efficient than a regular 7-9 speed freewheel?Miles said:safe said:Wouldn't that be great?
Combine the RC motor with a CVT like NuVinci.
Why choose an RC motor for weight and efficiency and then put it through an inefficient 4kg CVT .......?
Miles said:safe said:Wouldn't that be great?
Combine the RC motor with a CVT like NuVinci.
Why choose an RC motor for weight and efficiency and then put it through an inefficient 4kg CVT .......?
Miles said:safe said:Wouldn't that be great?
Combine the RC motor with a CVT like NuVinci.
Why choose an RC motor for weight and efficiency and then put it through an inefficient 4kg CVT .......?
No you could choose a high efficiency motor and get the same result. The chart was about POWER... it was in watts...eP said:...He want to use extremly expensive CVT hub or derailer with cheap and crap very inneficient brushed motor - 75-80% efficient at max with high Rm.
Trust me... when you get your bike going and start to learn how these powerbands are different than gas motors you will see what I'm talking about. The first time I rode my bike I thought:tostino said:I really don't think it would be that hard... I still am working on my e-bike, and don't have it in a ride-able condition yet. However, I do have a dirt bike, and I know that when I ride that...
safe said:No you could choose a high efficiency motor and get the same result. The chart was about POWER... it was in watts...eP said:...He want to use extremly expensive CVT hub or derailer with cheap and crap very inneficient brushed motor - 75-80% efficient at max with high Rm.
dirty_d said:the charts and stuff are pretty straightforward. but as a result you also get better efficiency too.