Version 2 Crystalyte Controller information

[monster]

i don't know how to do that seems beyond my technical skills. i just hope someone has a recommendation. or can you read off a part number?

 

[monster]

it says BJo (2J sideways) on it which gives me a lot of results in RS http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/...?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=bjo&x=0&y=0

any ideas?

 

[calinb]

It probably identifies the manufacturer. BJT stands for "bipolar junction transistor," which covers a lot of ground, as you saw. I don't think BJT is the marking on the package. It's probably Bjo, as you thought. I'm just not familiar enough with discrete components to identify it.

 

[fechter]

Hang in there monster. Let me look at one tomorrow. I should be able to figure out a part that will work. The markings won't be much help in identifying it.

 

[The7]

when switching windings make sure throttle is in off position, if motor is under load the analog controllers could be damaged, assume same for digital type, there was lengthy dicussion about it on 'power assist' yahoo forum, one solution so could switch when under load was too use voltage suppressing diodes, to stop the back emf spike when you disconnect a winding.

Is there any special controller for GL dual speed motor?

 

[solarbbq2003]

no for gl-dual I just use a 36v/48v 18amp regen controller with relay switch

 

[solarbbq2003]

very easy to change windings without loosing momentum, just throttle off hit switch throttle back on, I put the switch under my seat, if it was too easy to get to i might forget to throttle off, sort of reminds me having switch not too convenient place.

 

[fechter]

anyone know what to replace T5 with? part number?

OK, T5 looks like a PNP high side driver. On the analog controller, this is a 2n5401.
The surface mount version of this is a MMBT5401: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MM/MMBT5401.pdf

You can get it from DigiKey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=MMBT5401FSCT-ND $0.14ea.

 

[mn_aerorider1]

Hi Solarbbq2003:

I'd like to followup on your comment below about using the abs pin for regen braking:

the abs pin on the board is for regen braking ( not related to reversing function),
it uses the inductive method I assume via pwm to induce back emf for the regen current.
Simply have to put a wire from the abs pin to one of your brake handle cut off switches and another wire back to the ground connection pins in right hand bottom corner of board and you have regen braking when brake handle is applied.

I think its not a very efficient method of making regen but makes a hell of a good brake, will hardly make any difference to range unless you start getting into supercaps.

I'd like to make my own regen brake switch, since my existing brakes don't have a cutoff output and I'd rather not switch over to these crystalyte brake levers. This would be a cool way to avoid using my mechanical rear disc brake to slow myself down steep hills.

Now, my understanding about these brake handle cutoff switches is that they normally provide 5V and then go to 0V when brake is applied. Does that mean that the abs input normally wants 5V when not braking and when it is grounded, it will engage regen braking. So, does this just mean I need to have a switch tied to ABS that is normally 5V and then I just switch it to ground when I want to engage regen braking?

Is that what it takes? or could I just leave ABS floating and ground it when I want to engage regen braking?

What kind of braking action will one then see, when you hit this switch? I imagine that the faster you are going, the faster the braking action? Will it feel like you are lock up the drive wheel? Or will it just hit smooth and create hard deceleration and then gradually bring you to a halt as regen braking slows as the wheel slows?

Thanks,
Brian

 

[calinb]

OK, T5 looks like a PNP high side driver.

Thanks, fechter! I placed an order with Allied Electronics for six 4110s. They have them for $5.13 but they didn't have stock for the PNP transistors. I think mine are okay so, hopefully, I won't need them. I decided to upgrade to 4110s. Hopefully, they'll hold up better than the 4130s for me because I don't want to wager the expense for a full set of twelve FETs--at least not until I know the controller can be saved.

 

[monster]

yer thanks fechter. ive ordered from RS. 4x irfb4110's and some of those surface mount transistors. i'll let you know how it goes.

 

[solarbbq2003]

brian
basically just have to connect abs pin to ground to get braking effect,
normal on/off switches in brake handles needed ( not electronic type that have three wires from brake handle)
just two wires from brake handle, when brake squeezed switch completes circuit of abs pin to ground, can use any switch really. Braking effect depends on alot of things, how charged batteries are, speed etc, not sure if will work on higher voltages, not sure if there is a max voltage cut off in the regen like other regen controllers which usually cut off at 60v to protect 48v sla batteries from overcharging.
but makes a powerful brake

 

[monster]

http://www.davidsonelectronics.co.uk/pcbrep.htm PCB repair anyone? -just found this Davidson electronics.

 

[solarbbq2003]

re: capacitors on v2 board:
just wondering with caps on v2 board: lets say running at 85v, caps are rated to 100v, guessing back emf will be higher then 100v, would there be any advantage going to higher rated caps maybe even 200v? My knowledge on caps almost zero, seems the three large caps are very large size ( not sure if can get for example 100v 470uF in different sizes).
Would there be any effect in using say 200v 470uF instead of 100v 470uF apart from having higher volting rating. and does size matter ( no pun intended )

 

[fechter]

Yes, size does matter.

The voltage rating is not really the issue. Heat dissipation is.
A higher voltage of the same capacitance will be physically larger, therefore able to dissipate more heat. A lower ESR will generate less heat in the first place.

 

[solarbbq2003]

i put earlier post about pot resistor with r15 to change low voltage cut off, lvc now very low but not getting variable range,
think my calcs were a bit out

 

[solarbbq2003]

for chip on v2 ( cy8c24423a) data sheet says per attached pic
( looks promising!)

 

[solarbbq2003]

frequency dependent on input voltage to chip?
(pic from data sheet)

 

[solarbbq2003]

more stuff

 

[Deepkimchi]

When is somebody going to write Kenny at Clyte and ask them to put a selectable switch on the outside of the controller, with the standard 24V, 36V, 48V, 72V settings for choosing the proper LVC ? :?

Seems people are having to dig into the controllers a lot just for a simple resistor change..

DK

 

[Deepkimchi]

So after going thru 15 pages, is this the final list of mods I need to do ?

Change to 12 4110 FETs
Change the caps to higher voltage or lower ESR (or both)
LVC: Take out R15 and add a switch that selects between 18K (56V LVC) and 7.5K (29V LVC)
Change R4 from 1.2K to 1.5K (or higher) to increase current limit (and/or) solder shunts (need details).
Add solder or wires to all the famous S (source) connections hidden by a painted over trace.
Add electric "abs" braking by connecting abs pin to brake operated switch on handlebar, other wire from switch to controller ground.
(Anybody done this before I kill myself)?
Add individual gate resistors, one for each FET (nobody has shown how to do).

Change controller battery and phase wires from 14AWG to 10AWG - even though "Diver" on 18 May 08 says that it started blowing controllers and hall sensors afterward? Did anybody verify?

Add a pee detector pad from the bicycle seat to the controller, which shuts down system at high speeds?

 

[The7]

Add solder or wires to all the famous S (source) connections hidden by a painted over trace.

This is the highest recommended mod because one main cause of the failure of V2 is the "weak traces" and "plated holes" for high current paths, especially when using C5000 motors

 

[fechter]

So after going thru 15 pages, is this the final list of mods I need to do ?

...

Add a pee detector pad from the bicycle seat to the controller, which shuts down system at high speeds?

Hmmm... just run a pair of wires from your 72v battery to under the seat. That should shut down something...

 

[rkosiorek]

i also think that the Doctors idea of adding a reverse biased diode is also a good idea. it not only helps to prevent those reverse connected battery errors but it also helps quench the reverse spikes generated by the motor.

a nice list of mods.

rick

 

[mn_aerorider1]

basically just have to connect abs pin to ground to get braking effect,
normal on/off switches in brake handles needed ( not electronic type that have three wires from brake handle)
just two wires from brake handle, when brake squeezed switch completes circuit of abs pin to ground, can use any switch really. Braking effect depends on alot of things, how charged batteries are, speed etc, not sure if will work on higher voltages, not sure if there is a max voltage cut off in the regen like other regen controllers which usually cut off at 60v to protect 48v sla batteries from overcharging.
but makes a powerful brake

Hi Solarbbq2003 - Do you know if I need to lay off of the throttle before I switch this ABS input to ground to implement the braking effect smoothly? And/Or, will the amount of electronic braking vary with the throttle position, so that if I hit the ABS switch to ground while in full throttle position, I will get a huge braking effect, and if I lay off the throttle before hitting this ABS switch to ground, I can then ease in the braking effect by using the throttle?

Thanks,

Brian