I have the VLCD5 display connected to a Tonsheng 250 watt mid-drive motor. All was working well for last few months, but I noticed an intermittent loss of the speed and charge information on the display. I resolved this by simply disconnecting the 8 pin connector between the display and the motor. That invariably restored all the information on the display. However the other day that stopped being the solution. I have examined the cables and can see nothing obvious. The rest of the display is working fine. I can go into programme mode, switch on the lights or power output and the throttle is still operational. It's simply the speed and charge display information that's not presenting. When they fail and restore, they fail and restore simultaneously so the fault is linked. Any help, thoughts etc. would be much appreciated.
VLCD5 not displaying Charge or Speed
- Thread starter Dublinia
- Start date
Loss of speed information is mostly a wrong postion of magnet and speedsensor, so please check this first.Dublinia said:
The magnet must be opposite the mark on the speedsensor with a distance of about 10mm.
Too close or too far and you have problems with motorpower or readings.
About the missing charge information I can't say much more as you think too... a bad connection.
Thanks for taking the time to try to help. Yes I encountered the issue with the magnet when I set installed the motor and speed sensor so I can say conclusively that it's not he problem. I ultimately solved it with cable ties and some hot glue, which has surprisingly lasted a whole wet winter. The issue is not related to the speed sensor. The information being sent to the controller by the battery and the speed sensor is good because the motor is working just fine. Therefore I suspect it's and the link back to the VLCD5 from the controller that's the issue. The speed and Charge information dissapear and appeared simultaneously when the issue occured previously so that would suggest a brake in the TX side (Controller to VLCD5) I have been searching the forum for the pin diagram for the 8 pin plug, but I haven't found anything conclusive. Also I have no way of debugging to see if that is in fact the case. It's an 8 wire connector. Does anybody have a pin out diagram and a method for debugging the TX RX link?
Hi
Thanks for that link. Yes that's the connector. However the photo and the "official" looking pin out photo on the left are different.
The one on the left is obviously the Motor Controller side i.e. the female plug. It' shows that the RX PIn 3(Green) and TX Pin 5(Yellow) on the femal plug ( Motor Controller wiring side) where as the photo on the left shows Pin 1 or the brown wire as the TX on the VLCD5 side. The green wire is indicated as being for the use a the brake.
Anyway that aside my guess is that there is either a fault in the Motor Controller wiring on the TX wire or on the in the VLCD5 on the RX which is preventing the information from the battery and speed sensor getting to the VLCD5 display. I am not sure how I can read the output from the controller, so it may be a case of taking a chance and changing out one or the other to see which one resolves the issue. I apprecaite your help and I will update once I have resolved the issue.
Thanks for that link. Yes that's the connector. However the photo and the "official" looking pin out photo on the left are different.
The one on the left is obviously the Motor Controller side i.e. the female plug. It' shows that the RX PIn 3(Green) and TX Pin 5(Yellow) on the femal plug ( Motor Controller wiring side) where as the photo on the left shows Pin 1 or the brown wire as the TX on the VLCD5 side. The green wire is indicated as being for the use a the brake.
Anyway that aside my guess is that there is either a fault in the Motor Controller wiring on the TX wire or on the in the VLCD5 on the RX which is preventing the information from the battery and speed sensor getting to the VLCD5 display. I am not sure how I can read the output from the controller, so it may be a case of taking a chance and changing out one or the other to see which one resolves the issue. I apprecaite your help and I will update once I have resolved the issue.
Problems like this are almost always the connection itself, especially when disconnecting and reconnecting them fixes the problem even momentarily.
The most likely failure is the mating pins themselves, where the barrel portion is spread out a tiny bit and so not making permanent contact with the pin that goes into it.
The next most likely failure is the crimp (or solder) connection from the wire to the back of the contact, and/or the wire broken away from that point between the wire and the contact.
The third most likely is the the wire itself actually broken inside the insulation near the connector itself; usually this is at or near the base of the strain relief molded into the plastic connector.
None of these are really fixable in the Higo / Julet connectors without replacing the pre-made cable and connector assembly, because the whole area that fails is molded inside the plastic, and cutting that open to diagnose it is as likely to cause a failure as to find one, and is not going to be waterproof after the repair (if it even can be repaired).
To fix this type of problem (and not knowing which half of the cable the problem is in), you'd probably have to replace the whole cable from inside the controller to inside the display. I'd do just one of them first, and if it fixes it great, if not then do the other; it's 50/50 which one to start with.
The most likely failure is the mating pins themselves, where the barrel portion is spread out a tiny bit and so not making permanent contact with the pin that goes into it.
The next most likely failure is the crimp (or solder) connection from the wire to the back of the contact, and/or the wire broken away from that point between the wire and the contact.
The third most likely is the the wire itself actually broken inside the insulation near the connector itself; usually this is at or near the base of the strain relief molded into the plastic connector.
None of these are really fixable in the Higo / Julet connectors without replacing the pre-made cable and connector assembly, because the whole area that fails is molded inside the plastic, and cutting that open to diagnose it is as likely to cause a failure as to find one, and is not going to be waterproof after the repair (if it even can be repaired).
To fix this type of problem (and not knowing which half of the cable the problem is in), you'd probably have to replace the whole cable from inside the controller to inside the display. I'd do just one of them first, and if it fixes it great, if not then do the other; it's 50/50 which one to start with.
