waste of time. don't bother.

[Ariane]

Novembersierra28,

I didn't want to see my nick name in you signature anymore, for me is a cheap shot and nothing else!

Good luck, John

 

[Anonymous]

I was playing with a website, and got a little carried away, I did not meant any harm.

sorry

John

Novembersierra28,

I didn't want to see my nick name in you signature anymore, for me is a cheap shot and nothing else!

Good luck, John

 

[Anonymous]

I was playing with a website, and got a little carried away, I did not mean any harm.

sorry

John

wtf is going on? is this a joke?

Going off the eBay listing it looks like basically a scam.. what looks like 100% unfounded claims, deceptive videos, no pictures of the actual product itself, but pics of other products!!

Man, what is up with people on this forum this month? YPedal must bee keeping busy..

 

[TylerDurden]

I was playing with a website, and got a little carried away, I did not mean any harm.

"I wasn't going to eat the cookies, mom... I was just seeing how they felt..." :lol:

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I have to say that NovemberSierra has made a mistake here but he gave me and others a lot of help putting together A123 batteries. He gave me some good ideas on fluxes, shim, and solder. Not the worst guy around.

 

[vanilla ice]

What does that 45% signify on that model of charger?? The start photo shows 4.075v per cell at '45%' on the screen. Did the cells take 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v? If so that doesn't sound like a 10ah pack to me.

And if they only took 55% of 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v, that is 3ah. I might off base here though, I'm not sure what the V and % on the screen represents..

 

[Andje]

What does that 45% signify on that model of charger?? The start photo shows 4.075v per cell at '45%' on the screen. Did the cells take 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v? If so that doesn't sound like a 10ah pack to me.
And if they only took 55% of 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v, that is 3ah...

how do you calculate this? i would love to know how.

China Phil, you have a hundred people waiting ravenously for your report

 

[Ariane]

The most accurate way to estimate range for a high voltage battery pack is to mix salt with a little water and spread that evenly on your fingers. Then grab the bare negative battery lead with that hand, and press the positive lead firmly under your tongue.

A live video feed would be a nice touch.

It's a good idea, better than selling powerful 2wd ebike to beginners that can injure or to kill themselves.

Good day!
Black Arrow

 

[VoKuS]

Good news,

They pass the first test!

They are real, and actually exits!!

Im getting excited!!

 

[DAND214]

WHO PASSES THEM AND HOW AT WHAT?

 

[solracotos]

Good news,

They pass the first test!

They are real, and actually exits!!

Im getting excited!!

VokuS and ChinaPhil

You have to be more specific. What are the battery specs,(ie Voltage, capacity)? After your first ride do they match? Were the cell balanced? What was the shipping voltage.
How were they shipped and did they arrived well protected? Anything else included in package?

Solrac

 

[GGoodrum]

in the first img of the charger it shows 4.23AH at 24.45 v and rates that at 45%, so i was assuming that is 45% charged. Then in the second picture it shows 5595 mAH added to battery. Those are the figures im using to cal the 10ah. Am i wrong about that number in the top right being the mah added after charging, or am i wrong about the 4.23a being what the battery has at the beginning of the charge period?
I was also assuming that the 5.6 AH that it put into the battery were the missing 55%, which would point at 10Ah overall.

What does that 45% signify on that model of charger?? The start photo shows 4.075v per cell at '45%' on the screen. Did the cells take 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v? If so that doesn't sound like a 10ah pack to me.

And if they only took 55% of 5600mah between 4.075 and 4.19v, that is 3ah...

how do you calculate this? i would love to know how.

China Phil, you have a hundred people waiting ravenously for your report

These Hyperion chargers have a very sophisticated algorithm for computing SOC. As far as I can tell, it is pretty damn accurate. You have to input the pack capacity, however, in the charge setup screen. I'm not sure how big a pack you can enter in on the 1210i, but on my EOS 1420i NET3, I think it is around 100Ah.

The 4.23A figure is the initial charge current. It is not 4.23Ah, or some sort of initial SOC. The 45% is, based on the voltage and the entered pack capacity. I think initially it is more like a rough guess at SOC, but it does do a better job as it gets closer to being full. One other nice feature of these, that I haven't seen on the cheaper balance chargers, is that it keeps track of the balance current when it calculates how many mAh actually goes into the cells.

-- Gary

 

[VoKuS]

Good news,

They pass the first test!

They are real, and actually exits!!

Im getting excited!!

Im just excited they have been shipped to someone because of the pic before me!

I have no info to add, I did not order them, and I am waiting on more info just like every one else,

Sorry if I confused anyone.

 

[geoff57]

hi
for the moment I'll let sleaping dogs rest on the bad things that have gone on between me and NS28.
as for his idea of a 2WD bike when i first started to talk to him on skype this is what he wanted to do a 2WD bike to sell, I was quite willing to help him but had reservations about the way a 2WD ebike would ride, I was under the impression that he would do what most of us do build one for R&D and work from there i never for a moment thought he would try to sell untested Ebike setups to the unenformed.
Now my present ride is a moutain folder fully sprung I fitted a 9Cin the rear with a torque arm, replaced the standard front alu sprung forks with a set of steel tripple clamp forks I have fitted a front PUMA motor with a torque arm from Ebikes.ca., as the front PUMAS were never made disk brake compatable I did the next best thing i replaced the Vbrakes with magura hydrolic rim brakes this at least means I have good solid stopping power at the front. The rear is still a Vbrake but i will get this replaced with either a disk brake or magura hydrolic rim brake.
the battery is a 20s 15 AH LiPo pack on the rear rack.
The rear motor has a 12 fet high voltage 116 infineon with 4110 fets in it direct from keywin simmilar to lyens 12 fet controllers the PUMA will have a 6 fet of the same type but i did not have one avalible to me so I sealed the wires coming out of the PUMA and am waiting till I have a bit of free time to install the controller which has now arrived.
now I have gone through the same big freeze that the whole of the UK has but and I heard mention that a 2WD bike would work better in the snow and ice than a 1WD I can tell you that is a load of bull there is only on thing that will protect you from the snow and ice and that is studded tyres, I know this as that is what i have been rideing on from the start of the snow. I also utilised the multi speed settings of the Infineon to give me a very slow speed when the ice/snow was very bad.
I am not sure if the bike will ever be a true 2WD bike or just a bike that you can have either the front or the back wheel driven.

Now as for the idea of speed I have a few things to say about that, in the UK the law is 15 mph I and a lot of dedicated Ebikers think that is stuped it will not get people out if their cars and onto Ebikes, but we have to respect that that is the law and we break it at our own risk the moutain folder will do about 30mph but i ride in trafic so just keep up with the traffic most of the time only about 20 to 25 mph max this i think is a safe speed that is easier to slow down from if the police appear and will not cause undue strain on the frame and forks. There is the idea of going offroad faster than the law will allow on road. this is not quite as true as people think, in the UK there are sustrans tracks that are have a good surface not just a dirt track, BUT people with dogs and children use them and so the chances of using one as your own personal race track is remote. On dirt tracks and other offroad routes speed is never needed I speak as the nephew of the father of the english moutain bike, look him up if you dont belive me, my moutain folder is based on how he riding ideas within the limitations of the bike I had chosen. speed on the open road also causes a major problem with wind resistance on my moutain bike 30mph is about all I will be able to manage as at that speed wind plays a major role in keeping up the speed, if you want speed then you will need to change to a recumbent.
I hope that NS28 gets some positive results but if the reason for doing this is what he has said then he is going to find a big gap between what he wants and what he can make.

Geoff.

 

[solracotos]

Received one of these batteries today (for those of you who do not know, I am an expat living in Hong Kong):

Now off for a ride on a Cyclone 500W powered bike.

Oh man! Not wanting to take risks and buying something with a bit more reputation, I had made my mind about buying 6 5s 5ah lipos for my battery pack and forgetting about these unknown lipo packs. Now I'm having second thoughts.

I can spend $300 for a 38v 15ah pack (using 6 packs) or spend 300 for a 38v 20ah (using 4 packs)

what to do... what to do....

 

[Andje]

thanks gary, i deleted my post so as not to cause confusion in the long run

 

[deVries]

Received one of these batteries today (for those of you who do not know, I am an expat living in Hong Kong):

Now off for a ride on a Cyclone 500W powered bike.

Oh man! Not wanting to take risks and buying something with a bit more reputation, I had made my mind about buying 6 5s 5ah lipos for my battery pack and forgetting about these unknown lipo packs. Now I'm having second thoughts.

I can spend $300 for a 38v 15ah pack (using 6 packs) or spend 300 for a 38v 20ah (using 4 packs)

what to do... what to do....

I would recommend waiting for more test results, unless you have the money "to burn" or "beta test" on a 20ah that could be way over-rated.

Also, there is a sale going on now at Hobby King... check this link out...

HobbyKing LiPo BlowOutSale includes USA & RegionalWarehouses

Personally, imho, I would not buy these now, why? Because I/we don't know enough about this company or its source of LiPo, and, considering, there have been dangerous "chemical breakdown" or reactions that destroy LiPo batteries or, much worse, cause fires... Is it worth the added unknown risk???

Now, we are fortunate here on ES that there are many wonderful "beta testers" that can & will do the experimentation for us... thank you, to all the beta testers...

 

[Jeremy Harris]

It's worth noting that, as far as the law in England and Wales goes (I'm not sure about Scotland or NI) any designated path, track, byway or road is a public highway and so subject to the 15mph/250watt limit. To legally ride an electric bike that falls outside the EAPC regulations you need to be on land that is not a designated track, path or whatever. As a fair number of the MTB routes include byways etc, you wouldn't be able to legally ride a non-EAPC compliant bike on them.

As I've pointed out elsewhere, there are also significant liability issues that need to be taken into account if advertising high power ebike parts for sale in the UK. The advert wording needs to be very clear with regard to the law, including some of the safety legislation that needs to be complied with, like the Low Voltage Directive and CE marking if you want to sell something that's over 75V DC or 50V AC and probably a need for compliance with the EMC Directive as well. These things can be overcome, but it's best to take them into account from the start so that you don't get caught out. The potential liability issues, in particular, need some careful thought, as it is often considered to be an unlawful contract condition (in the UK, if not elsewhere) to sell something that's dangerous or illegal with just a warning to consumers. Notices to the effect that the seller accepts no liability for what a customer does with the goods give very limited protection. The most infamous example is the signs seen in cloakrooms where you pay to have your jacket, whatever, stored, the ones that say "The management accept no responsibility for the security of items stored here". The law is clear, you've paid money for a service (the storage of goods) and have a right to expect that they are stored reasonably securely. The sign doesn't mean much, and doesn't remove your right to sue for loss. The same goes to the commonly seen disclaimers on adverts. Often they only provide very limited protection to the seller, as a purchaser will have bought the goods based on the expectation provided by the information in the rest of the advert. As with everything, the devil is in the detail.

Jeremy

PS: In case people think I'm exaggerating, the above is based on my experience designing and selling kit aircraft in the UK, where liability issues tend to be right in the forefront of your conciousness. The cost of a lawsuit following an aircraft accident doesn't bear thinking about..................

 

[neptronix]

I say wait, also.

The rated cycle count for these batteries is very low. The price is going to go up about 2x; probably because the next gen will be much improved!

I can wait. Besides, i have 12 turnigy lipo packs here that i haven't even used.. can't justify buying more lipo.. um.. yet

 

[solracotos]

@ DeVries and Neptronix,

You guys are right! I'll wait before buying these unknown lipos.

Solrac

 

[vanilla ice]

how do you calculate this? i would love to know how.

Just divide the voltage by six since its a 6s pack. From those pics it looks like 19 seconds in to the charge cycle the cells are 4.075, then 5500mah later they are 4.19 per cell. I don't know how much of the 0:19 voltage reading is voltage 'rise' from charging or how much mah was bled off from balancing... But if one is very familiar with the charge characteristics of this chemistry (I am not) than you might be able to read something into those photos. For me its hard to believe a 10ah cell would take 5500mah between 4.075 and 4.19V, even with bleed and rise sounds like more like a 20ah cell. Anyway, back to the waiting.. opcorn:

 

[solracotos]

Just got a email from Yan with some of the answers to my questions.

Here are my questions. (Some are very basic but I wanted to have a record :wink: )

Can I pay for these items using Paypal? I'm a bit apprehensive of doing a wire transfer. Paypal would be a lot easier!


Could you please send information about the two batteries types: the 10000mah 18.5v and 20000mah 18.5 lipos.
Max/min charge rate, size, weight, cell count etc.
Do you test packs before sending, to ensure no faulty pack is shipped?
Do you have access to performance tests done to these packs. For example number of cycles as a function of temperature, discharge and recharge rates etc. I want to know how many charge/discharge cycles I can expect?
Do you pack your shipments to ensure no damage during transit?
What is the approximate delivery time frame to the USA .
What are the warranty terms?
In case of faulty batteries when I receive them? Do you replace them free of charge? What about return shipping?

The answers

The max rate is 20C , the continue rate 10000mah is 5 -10C ,20000mah is 10 -15C . we will QC every battery when we sent out .
The cycle life around 100-200 times . the delivery time normal take 5-9 days .
Please check the battery when you got them ,and no-over charger or over-discharge , the warranty is one month .

I will not pursue answers to the other ones. Hope this helps....

 

[deVries]

Just got a email from Yan with some of the answers to my questions...

The cycle life around 100-200 times.

Untouchables, imo.

Hey, with the new nano costing a bit more & those, if cared for (i.e. charge to 4.12v & discharge to 3.55v), should get a 1,000+ cycles...

No contest.

(This 100 cycle LiPo will rip-off customers... sheeity deals sold to innocent ignorance to make unscrupulous ill-profits.)

 

[solracotos]

Just got a email from Yan with some of the answers to my questions...

The cycle life around 100-200 times.

Untouchables, imo.

Hey, with the new nano costing a bit more & those, if cared for (i.e. charge to 4.1v & discharge to 3.55v), should get a 1,000+ cycles...

No contest.

(This 100 cycle LiPo will rip-off customers... sheeity deals sold to innocent ignorance to make unscrupulous ill-profits.)

Agreed! I'm not even going to wait for any further testing. IMO the jury already has their veredict! DO NOT BUY! I wanna say THANKS to everyone all that have contributed to this tread, specially the beta testers.

I will go buy some 5s 5Ah blue lipos from HobbyPartz. Anyone has some Life Cycle info on these blue lipos from HobbyPartz.com

 

[deVries]

I will go buy some 5s 5Ah blue lipos from HobbyPartz. Anyone has some Life Cycle info on these blue lipos from HobbyPartz.com

Thanks for posting that 100-200 life-cycle info you got directly from the seller.

Follow my charge 4.12v/discharge3.55v recommendations & that will give you maximum lifespan with reasonable performance. :wink:

Many LiPo experts on ES buy LiPo from Hobby King (search the forum)... HK sample sale posted here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=23525

If you buy the Nano LiPo & charge/discharge as I suggest, charge the LiPo at room temp (never freezing & avoid cold & humidity), then I'd bet you could get years of use and 1500-2000 cycles. For long-term value the Nano LiPo is probably the best value, but only time will tell. (It's a mid-2010 new product.) LFP, Luke, would probably agree with this, imo.

FWIW, I've been tracking my LiPo, test charge/discharge, with software comparing Flightmax w/Nano & the Nano has lower IR & graphs better... I will stop my discharge at 3.55v based on the discharge graphs I've tested & observed using the Hyperion software. For maximum cycle lifespan vs good performance only charge to 4.125v, imo.