What does "AH" stand for and its purpose?

lifeupjimbob said:
what if i used a "48V 5kw Brushless Motor Controller"
with a "26' Rear Wheel Motor for Electric Bike 1500W"
Running on a "48V 20ah battery"

would that be a bad idea?

a 5kw controller would be a bit overkill. The battery and motor sound like a good match, though.

with a 1500W motor, you would want to use a 36V to 72V, 6FET, 9FET or 12FET controller., depending on the continuous "C" rating of your battery. (a 1C battery = 20Amps = 6FET, 2C battery = 40Amps = 12FET)
 
They havent put that down from what i can see, i'll have to contact the seller and see what he says.

So i should ask for

1.what is the unloaded RPM of the motor at 48V?
2.what is the kV rating of the motor?

Shall Pm them now and see if i get a response, this should be fun :)
 
lifeupjimbob said:
what if i used a "48V 5kw Brushless Motor Controller"
with a "26' Rear Wheel Motor for Electric Bike ......

You have a budget for a 100 amp controller? Let us know how it goes because 100 amps into a stock 48v motor sounds like a lot of heat to me......but you will go fast for a while, until the magic smoke comes out. :wink:

As far as holes in the side covers, yea a few have drilled them. It helps with cooling and moisture. Hot roder's around here also use transmission fluid inside a sealed motor. Very experimental.

Gunna' make an X bike?

:D
 
haha :) that would be my worst nightmare! I dont think i would really throttle it that much, maybe once every 5-minutes just to mix it up abit.

Got a email back today and here is what they wrote back : its a "48V 1500W motor, the unloaded RPM is 650"

what do you think, any good?

p.s whats a X-bike?
 
lifeupjimbob said:
.....Got a email back today and here is what they wrote back : its a "48V 1500W motor, the unloaded RPM is 650"......whats a X-bike?

Sounds like a powerful motor....what is the link? An X-bike is an experimental bike.

:D
 
To be honest what i might do is give the link when i test it out, That way i dont need end up leading others into a con or any disappointments, which seems to happen alot in this life.

What im going to do is skip right over the middle man and contact the factory via email & telephone, so i may be able to get a discount for anyone who mentions this site in a order direct from the factor... My gf half chinese so im going to use her to translator :p

well speak to you all abit later, just going to pop off down to town
 
Bottom line is this. 30 mph is fairly cheap, but 40 mph takes a lot more watts. Then you get to spend a lot more than $500 on a battery that still will run more than 3-5 miles.

The motor you were looking at sounds like it would kill an affordable battery in a few weeks. A typical "bike" lifepo4 battery can handle at the very most 30 amps. But it's going to hate it, and it will damage it. Better, is to stick to less than 25 amps. That will last. A typical "20 amps" controller common in kits is actually set to 22 amps. With a 48v battery, it produces about 1200 peak watts. It's enough to reach 30 mph on faster windings, or 27 mph on slightly slower ones. 6 or 7 turns of the winding direct drive motors.

Lower your sights. 30 mph on an ebike is pretty quick, and 30 mph takes about 1000w. 40 mph club membership generally takes 3000w. so it's three times more expensive.

A cheap dd hub will still be very fun at 48v. And the battery is going to be fairly affordable, though you might spend closer to 6-700 bucks for one that is safe and easy to charge.

But later, that same hub could be hooked up to RC lico (lipo) batteries, and run at 72v 40 amps, 3000w. Bing, you are in the 40 mph club.

Since your budget is limited at this time, start out with an affordable motor, and 48v. A Mac 10 T is very poplular at 48v, and 1500w. But don't take the Mac to 3000w.
 
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