What hall sensor is that ? Or which one do i need ?

[Sparfuchs]

Hello EV friend,

i guess the title says it all. One of the sensors doesn't work anymore and i need to replace it.. or all of them ? On the sensor are the tiny letters "13A 345" but i haven't found anything useful about that yet. So could someone tell me what sensor this is or what sensor i could buy to replace the broken one ? Or if i wont find the same one could i just buy three new ones ? But witch one would work ? And can someone tell by looking at the pics if it is a 120 or 60 degree sensor type ?
The motor is a outrunner with 10 permanent magnets in the outrunning part, and 12 electric magnets (as shown below).

Thanks for your help

Best regards
Sparfuchs

 

[Jrbe]

Looks like a Honeywell SS413A. 13A marking from datasheet. https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-magnetic-sensor-ic-selection-chart-005984.pdf
I'm not great at this but I think the other group of numbers might be a batch number.
If your soldering skills are decent you could add some wires to each leg and do some testing with a magnet to check for latching, unipolar / bipolar, magnetoresistive, etc. to verify.

 

[Sparfuchs]

Looks like a Honeywell SS413A. 13A marking from datasheet. https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-magnetic-sensor-ic-selection-chart-005984.pdf
I'm not great at this but I think the other group of numbers might be a batch number.
If your soldering skills are decent you could add some wires to each leg and do some testing with a magnet to check for latching, unipolar / bipolar, magnetoresistive, etc. to verify.

Thanks a lot for your reply Jrbe,
that brings me closer to the choice of what to buy.
My soldering skills are quiet good i guess, but how do i test what type it is ?
I guess i'll need my multimeter for it, but what then ?

 

[Jrbe]

So to start off, this is likely the replacement. I didn't find other options labeled this way.
Further, the old hall sensor scraped away to internal connections. You may have blown some parts of the circuitry.
Whatever caused the misalignment / play should be fixed or the same thing will happen.
You need to figure out which lead / wire is which. If this runs above 48v I can't recommend you power it up to test. If it's 48v or less you can power it up and test.
Be aware the controller will likely power the motor up and could energize the coils. This means electricity and magnetism to be careful with.

Between 2 leads you likely have 3.3v, 5v, 8v, or 12v. Be careful not to slip, you could blow the rest of the circuitry.
Between the - (or 0) and the odd one out is signal. If you confirm these 3 match the sensor linked, for the cost of getting a few and solder in a replacement you can verify the working old ones react the same as these replacements.

https://octopart.com/ss413a-honeywell-40162594?r=sp

You're basically checking:
if it's on / off with N & S of a magnet or only reacts to just 1 pole.
If it's analog output (likely on or off.)
Magnet sensing / trigger distance.
If it latches (stays high / low when the magnet is pulled away or only reacts when the magnet is nearby.)
The legs /wires match up power / signal wise. Should have done this already.
The magnet works on the face or end.
Voltage range normally is something to check but the one linked has a wide voltage range. It's likely not an issue.

If new and old react the same you should be good to go. If the sense distance is off new to old or other oddities from the test above you might have an issue and probably shouldn't try to run it.