What is causing my creaking clicking spokes. Can I fix?
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mud2005
10 kW
if that avatar picture is you I have an idea why they're creaking 
Icewrench
10 kW
Might be time to check for loose spokes and tighten them up.
audipiglet
10 mW
I had the same problem, I took the tire off and tightened all the spokes and that fixed the problem but it comes back every 100ish miles, so I just do it again,
dogman dan
1 PW
It's your wheel tuning. Some will tighten em up till they make no more noise ever. Then they might show you the picture later of the nipples pulling holes in the rim.
Personally, I have in the last few years gravitated to wanting to tune my motor wheels to the point where they make a lot less noise, but not go completely silent. When looking for loose spokes, I'll try to eliminate both the spokes singing a low bass note when plucked, and the ones singing soprano. If the rim is not pre bent too much yet, I like to get em so they all sing a nice tenor, and the wheel is pretty straight.
At that point, I might hear a creak or two when really cornering hard, but the wheel won't make any noise rolling in a straight line. If your rim is now horribly bent, then you will see that only by running spokes too loose on one side, and too tight on the other can you get it straight. Replace the rim if it's really that bent or live with some wobble, but spokes that aren't quite so overtight and over loose.
Pay attention to your wheels, and tune em fairly regular. Don't ride a loose spoked, bent rim if you want to always get there. Motor wheels stretch their spokes quite a bit in the first 100 miles, then they usually settle in for the long haul.
Personally, I have in the last few years gravitated to wanting to tune my motor wheels to the point where they make a lot less noise, but not go completely silent. When looking for loose spokes, I'll try to eliminate both the spokes singing a low bass note when plucked, and the ones singing soprano. If the rim is not pre bent too much yet, I like to get em so they all sing a nice tenor, and the wheel is pretty straight.
At that point, I might hear a creak or two when really cornering hard, but the wheel won't make any noise rolling in a straight line. If your rim is now horribly bent, then you will see that only by running spokes too loose on one side, and too tight on the other can you get it straight. Replace the rim if it's really that bent or live with some wobble, but spokes that aren't quite so overtight and over loose.
Pay attention to your wheels, and tune em fairly regular. Don't ride a loose spoked, bent rim if you want to always get there. Motor wheels stretch their spokes quite a bit in the first 100 miles, then they usually settle in for the long haul.
shuckswon1
100 mW
Over tightening the spokes can cause the noise too. I bought a new used hub an rim recently and it had been spoked backwards. the base of the spoke would not seat onto the hub holes properly. I cut straws and placed between where the spokes cross and touch. If it still creaks its probably from the spoke base.The noise can come from two places; on the spokes where they cross and touch or at the base where they come thru the hub. Do visual in both places. At cross you will feel bind between the two spokes when press between fingers. Then look to see if the base of the spokes are snug and well seated in the hub holes.
Good luck, Shucks
Good luck, Shucks
biohazardman
100 kW
Speaking form experience. You can tighten the spokes several times, and stop the squeek, but when spokes start to break it's time to replace the cheap Chinese units with some decent ones. You may want a better rim about then as well. I made it near 1K then replaced them all. No spoke or rim problems since.
Spicerack
10 kW
mud2005 said:if that avatar picture is you I have an idea why they're creaking
Oh man, thanks for that. That was an awesome LOLROFL to start the week off. :lol:
Oh and yeah, agree with the comments about the spokes, rims etc.
Ykick
1 GW
Been there done this and once you rebuild a proper wheel to your hub motor you'll regret not doing it sooner. The stock Chinese crap isn't very good metal and often poorly chosen components for our purposes.
For now, you need to keep it true and reasonably tight spokes (don't over do it though) but start planning to rebuild WHEN the current wheel goes taco. Wheels make this lifestyle go 'round and 'round....
For now, you need to keep it true and reasonably tight spokes (don't over do it though) but start planning to rebuild WHEN the current wheel goes taco. Wheels make this lifestyle go 'round and 'round....
dogman dan
1 PW
True enough, the china spokes vary in quality a lot, and you can get some that are just so bad they are nearly hopeless.
But in my expereinces, which mostly have been with suspension bikes, if you get the spokes tensioned right, they may still make some noise but not as much as before, yet not be overtightened to the point where they have to start breaking, or pulling out of the rim.
But it depends on many things, if you are heavy, and the streets are that bad, and you have no suspension, and you hit those potholes fast, you might really need nothing less than the best spokes.
I still think though, that once you get the hang of wheel tuning, you can find that happy place where the wheel is not too noisy, yet not overtightened either. The idea is to let the spokes flex some when they really need to, in the pothole. But they shouldn't be flexing a lot on every straight running revolution of the wheel like they do when too loose.
But in my expereinces, which mostly have been with suspension bikes, if you get the spokes tensioned right, they may still make some noise but not as much as before, yet not be overtightened to the point where they have to start breaking, or pulling out of the rim.
But it depends on many things, if you are heavy, and the streets are that bad, and you have no suspension, and you hit those potholes fast, you might really need nothing less than the best spokes.
I still think though, that once you get the hang of wheel tuning, you can find that happy place where the wheel is not too noisy, yet not overtightened either. The idea is to let the spokes flex some when they really need to, in the pothole. But they shouldn't be flexing a lot on every straight running revolution of the wheel like they do when too loose.
Ykick
1 GW
True Dogman but when I ditched the stock crap and re-laced using 13/14ga butted SS spokes with Mammoth Fat rim I haven't touched a spoke wrench yet. Approaching one year this Dec close to 4k miles on some of the harshest roads in NA. That's my 26" wheel FS bike and I'm a big guy too.
With the stock 9C wheel 'was tweaking the damn 13ga spokes every few weeks while listening to creaks and pops. Now even the 9C motor resonance has diminished to the point it's practically inaudible. We got what we got so probably best to run it out to the end but I suggest planning/sourcing for a wheel rebuild now before you find yourself without a working bike for a few weeks.
The difference using good spokes and rim was a dramatic revelation for me. Given the option, I'll never again bother with wheel motors built using Chinese components/design.
With the stock 9C wheel 'was tweaking the damn 13ga spokes every few weeks while listening to creaks and pops. Now even the 9C motor resonance has diminished to the point it's practically inaudible. We got what we got so probably best to run it out to the end but I suggest planning/sourcing for a wheel rebuild now before you find yourself without a working bike for a few weeks.
The difference using good spokes and rim was a dramatic revelation for me. Given the option, I'll never again bother with wheel motors built using Chinese components/design.
dogman dan
1 PW
Sorry if that sounded wrong. What I'm trying to say is, many people have rim and spoke problems more because they don't tune the wheel at all, or worse some dufus at the LBS knows only how to tighten spokes, till they have to break.
Absolutely, if you are buying some spokes, getting good ones will be a sure improvement. It's gotta be nice to have spokes that don't keep stretching and stretching every time you adjust em.
But I wouldn't say a guy needs to spend money on having a pro relace thier wheel because it creaks a bit. I've generally found my motor wheels need a few adjustments when new, then settle in and only need a tune every 1000 miles or so. To me, that's no big deal. But I've been tuning wheels for about 40 years, despite not really knowing squat about how to do it best. All I ever really learned along the way was not to overtighten, and not to turn the wrench much at any one time.
Absolutely, if you are buying some spokes, getting good ones will be a sure improvement. It's gotta be nice to have spokes that don't keep stretching and stretching every time you adjust em.
But I wouldn't say a guy needs to spend money on having a pro relace thier wheel because it creaks a bit. I've generally found my motor wheels need a few adjustments when new, then settle in and only need a tune every 1000 miles or so. To me, that's no big deal. But I've been tuning wheels for about 40 years, despite not really knowing squat about how to do it best. All I ever really learned along the way was not to overtighten, and not to turn the wrench much at any one time.
Ykick
1 GW
Nothing wrong with what you're saying bro. I get it and have done and continue to do the same things with my play stuff. I'm just astounded by the difference good components made and I'm a total noob wheelbuilder yet still attained awesome results.
I suppose it's catch 22 because if I hadn't learned how to true and tension the crappy wheel I woulda never been able to rebuild my wheel with good parts when the end came?
I suppose it's catch 22 because if I hadn't learned how to true and tension the crappy wheel I woulda never been able to rebuild my wheel with good parts when the end came?
I have tightened the spokes, they were really loose. Went around and did a half turn on each whilst plucking the spokes. Rim remained true so I dd another quarter turn all round checked again all ok with mainly good sounding 'pings'! I have not ridden the bike yet as I snapped a brand new seat clamp yesterday and am waiting on new one . The bike in question is a brand new build, yesterday's test drive Was ok apart from the old GM mini motor wheel creaking, I have not used it in a while, hopefully the creaking will now ease. I will soon be changing the motor for a bafang bpm and will invest in a good downhill mavic rim with bespoke made spokes.
The GM rims are very poor and the spokes seem very brittle after last winters salty roads.
The GM rims are very poor and the spokes seem very brittle after last winters salty roads.
The fingers
10 TW
Chinese steel, Chinese alloy, Chinese plastic, Chinese electronics; all= Chinese junk, IMHO. :lol:
A little silicone dry lube goes a long way, quieting squeaks and clucks, and helps prevent corrosion. Keep it off brake surfaces and periodically check, but don't overtighten, spokes and other nuts and bolts. A little noise can alert you to something loose, but sometimes things happen without warning. :wink:
Hope your wheel works good!
A little silicone dry lube goes a long way, quieting squeaks and clucks, and helps prevent corrosion. Keep it off brake surfaces and periodically check, but don't overtighten, spokes and other nuts and bolts. A little noise can alert you to something loose, but sometimes things happen without warning. :wink:
Hope your wheel works good!
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