What is wrong with my welding?

[veloman]

First off - I know my welder is not a good one, it's the $90 Harbor Freight flux core wire welder. But I've watched videos of others use it, and the welds look a lot better than mine. I've spent a couple hours welding so far, and I'm having a hard time getting a good line, just this bubble crap.

- Is my wire speed too slow or fast?
- Should I use the max setting? (tried it a few times, but MIN seemed to work better and not go crazy)
- Maybe my power source is weak? 15amp outlet possible?
- Am I moving too fast or slow?
- Crap wire? I heard the stock wire isn't good. I did buy some Lincoln wire, but haven't used it yet.

The metal is this pic is 1/8" steel, two angles next to each other. The top ridge/edge seemed to go so-so, not so bubbly. Maybe because it was able to heat more, being an edge. But I've had this same bubble problem when welding thin bike frame tubing as well.

 

[friendly1uk]

Looks like your melting your wire, but not the material. Doing better along the edge seems to back this up. How many amps is your cheap welder? 3.2mm plate takes a bit of melting. Or perhaps your wire melts way before the material because it's too thin.

I don't weld, it is a skill I intend to pick up this year. I'm pulling knowledge from similar fields.

 

[izeman]

you're not welding. your placing welding wire on the surface. for a solid weld you need to melt the material you want to join. the magic is to use just enough current to melt it, and not too much to burn it. if you feed wire too fast that you will get thicker welds, but without enough power you will just get bigger blobs.
i don't know your welder, but i'd say: pump up the power!
if you can't do that try welding thinner material and see if this works.
btw: no offense intended - just a safety warning: imho you did NOT produce a valid weld. it may be strong enough that you can brake those two parts apart with your hands alone, but it will NOT be anywhere near a strong connection.

 

[xadmx]

max power prob about half wire speed and take your time let the bead build to about 6-8mm and keep the glowing bead the same size as you move the gun. with that flux core wire you have to slow down a bit because you have to give it time to burn the flux off. after this if you welds are massive speed up a bit or turn your wire down.
adam

 

[AussieJester]

Definitely needs more amps buddy, ramp up the power and wire speed accordingly...

KiM

 

[izeman]

Definitely needs more amps buddy, ramp up the power and wire speed accordingly...

correct. btw: i just checked welder's specs, and it says 20amp outlet for full power! so veloman take care you use the correct outlet. 5amps less is 25% power less

 

[dogman dan]

If you don't have a garage with 20 amp plugs, then your best bet might be the kitchen plugs. Unplug the refrigerator, then use that plug, hopefully with not too long a cord. Typically no other plugs in a house or apt will be 20 amps.

 

[izeman]

... Unplug the refrigerator, then use that plug, hopefully with not too long a cord. ...

love that idea: while the fridge it out of order and you're doing the welding you should drink all that beer from the fridge as long as it's cold
the outlet for washing machine and dryer should also be able to handle that.

 

[wesnewell]

Check your fuse box for a 20A outlet Add one if needed. 20A circuits require 12awg. Here's an idea of typical? house wiring

Transfer switch. - Circuit Breaker - Amperage - Service area

-9T -15A- Garage front wall sockets. Socket under den bookcase.
A -9B -15A- Master bath and back porch lights. Two wall sockets by back door in den.
B -11T-15A- Front bath & attic lights. Hall socket. Den west wall front socket.
H -11B-15A- Dining room, front entry and porch light. Den east wall sockets (2).
C -13T-15A- Master bedroom lights and sockets.
D -13B-15A- Front corner bedroom lights and sockets.
F -15T-15A- Garage,flood,wash room,breakfast lights. Garage ceil & WR sockets.
-15B-15A- Front bedroom lights and sockets. Den south wall socket.
G -17T-15A- Patio, master & front bath sockets.
-17B-20A- Utility room (washer).
E -18T-20A- Under sink and counter socket.
-18B-20A- Dishwasher socket.
I -19T-20A- Wall sockets above and each side of stove.
J -20T-20A- Frig, dining & breakfast room sockets.

 

[999zip999]

Instad of a inside bead filp it and weld the outside corner. Turn up the heat, turn down the wire speed make a wet puddle than move the wet puddle as the puddle is wet on thicker metal move a stringer invery small circle keeping the puddle wet. They thinner metal if you burn thru turn down the amps than you may turn up the wire feed. Little by little onturning the knobs. But that is a cold weld. Get good support of your hand with the other hand slow down. Feed the wet puddle don't leave the wet puddle.

 

[John in CR]

If your machine gives you a choice of 220V or 110V, get a 220V pigtail and go that route for a much better supply of power. Slow down. Practice in the middle of some flat scraps. Once you can lay down a nice looking bead, then try welding some scraps together forming a T joint, and then try putting 2 edges together.

Check youtube for some good tutorials too,

 

[veloman]

Thanks guys, will look into this.

 

[teklektik]

max power prob about half wire speed and take your time let the bead build to about 6-8mm and keep the glowing bead the same size as you move the gun. with that flux core wire you have to slow down a bit because you have to give it time to burn the flux off. after this if you welds are massive speed up a bit or turn your wire down.

+1
Although there seem to be feed and current problems to be addressed, a fundamental issue is that the welds themselves appear as a string of grapes with noticeable gaps in the bead. It looks like you are just dragging the stinger along without watching the puddle - and are outrunning it. You need to find some YouTube clips that show through-the-mask videos so you can see how the puddle is formed and properly advanced. Developing basic speed and angle control is at the heart of the skill.

The metal is this pic is 1/8" steel, two angles next to each other. The top ridge/edge seemed to go so-so, not so bubbly. Maybe because it was able to heat more, being an edge.

As others have suggested, there is a difference in welding flat joints, etc. When welding pieces of dissimilar thickness/size, you need to adjust the angle of your stinger to play the arc into the heavier piece of metal. This will send the heat in that direction and give the required penetration while protecting the lighter piece. As above, this is part of the speed/angle control knowledge that you have to learn from practice (and critique by a skilled welder, if you are lucky). Don't just jump around trying different kinds of joints - practice and develop skill with each kind in turn. Repetition of the same weld gives you the opportunity to figure out what is wrong with your weld and immediately alter your technique to address the shortfall.

 

[veloman]

I checked my circuit breaker, everything in the house is 20 or 30amp. Not sure if that includes the garage. But I will hook up to the kitchen outlet next to my driveway.

I'm realizing that it's likely my technique - not creating and extending the puddle. Sounds right.

 

[Chalo]

I checked my circuit breaker, everything in the house is 20 or 30amp. Not sure if that includes the garage. But I will hook up to the kitchen outlet next to my driveway.

I'm realizing that it's likely my technique - not creating and extending the puddle. Sounds right.

Do not stop trying to get decent penetration with the setup you have, but understand that flux core wire will never give you clean-looking welds like solid wire with inert gas. You can get structurally sound welds, but they'll always look rough and dirty by comparison. Just as MIG welds will always look toothpasty compared to TIG.

 

[Sancho's Horse]

Get rid of the scale. Little grinding near the area, angle at the seam, crank the amps up some, speed down some, and honestly, an auto-darkening helmet helps a lot as you learn. Practice and reading mostly, and becoming friends with a good welder never hurts.

 

[malcav]

having used that same welder i would really suggest changing your tip and get thicker wire i think your stock with .05 but .08 so much better doesn't seem like much but let me tell you easy to work with the thicker wire and therefore better looking beads

 

[veloman]

I gave it another shot tonight and at first it seemed to actually weld, using the max setting. As I did more, it became harder to do a continuous line again. This is probably because I need to wait longer due to the 20% duty cycle. (i'm not really sure if I actually exceeded that).

The main problem I'm having is that I can't really see the welding action - it's very smokey. I do have an auto darkening helmet (turning it on to 'fast' helped to not bother my eyes this time too). I'm going to put a fan directly on it to help clear the smoke.

Most of my welding has been at night, with relatively poor lighting. I'm not sure if it really matters due to the intense light created by welding.

 

[emiyata]

Very good posts. I have a small welder but like everything it needs some changes. Toss the cord built into the machine. Go to a long #10 power cord it will give you max power to the welder. It will act like you bought the next size bigger welder. I want to go to 240v in time on mine.

 

[999zip999]

Do use two hands as one to brace and support the other. Long gloves and sleeves help as the arc will toast your arm as if the sun was out.

 

[Drunkskunk]

(turning it on to 'fast' helped to not bother my eyes this time too).

Oh Hell, Dude, you're suppose to blink when you pull the trigger with an auto dark helmet. They turn on fast but not fast enough to save your eyes long term. you can kill your vision if you rely on the helmet to save your vision. The technique is to get lined up with the welder, then then take a long blink as you pull the trigger, just long enough to avoid seeing the flash. I know guys who have taped 05 lenses to the inside of their helmets as well, to make them a little darker. Everyone I know uses a halogen work light when welding, even in a bright room or outside. it helps you see the work with the helmet darkened.


Don't use a fan. that smoke is important. the flux core vaporizes and forms the shield gas around the weld. if you blow it away, you won't have a good weld. Just get a brighter light source.

As others have said, it looks like you're moving too fast with too few amps. You might also be using too thin of wire. If it's not .035, then it's going to be harder to get a good weld.


Take 10 minutes, grab a large piece of scrap, set the welder on low power, and make a 1 inch long weld on it, taking 60 seconds to go the full inch. move over a bit, do the same 1 inch long weld, only do it in 30 seconds. then do a third in 15 seconds. Then move up a power setting, and make another 3 welds the same way. rinse/repeat untill you have tried the three leinghs of welds at each power level. You'll then have a refrence sheet for what your welder is capable of.

 

[malcav]

sorry it is .023 or .03 to .035 not .08 been a while since i bought wire as i by 3 or 4 reels at a time and dont weld every day.

 

[veloman]

Yeah, it uses .035 I believe.

That's good to know I am suppose to close my eyes when starting, thanks!

This thread has been helpful.

 

[malcav]

they must have stepped up there game if if has .035

 

[bowlofsalad]

I think weldingweb's forum might be a better place to ask a bunch of welding questions.

Anyway, it's been said to a degree but it's important to send home. Clean the material you will weld. Put a sanding disc on an angle grinder and then wipe the area off with acetone. Acetone is great because it's super strong for cleaning and evaporates very quickly leaving nothing behind.

The heat issue has been well noted as well. The rest is probably going to be technique. They say a bad carpenter blames his tools. It's likely there is nothing wrong with the welder. Welding can seem pretty easy, and it sorta is. The two hard parts are getting the penetration or heat right, and making sure (assuming you are the engineer/designer) what you make isn't going to break or fail.