What one-off bike should I build to sell?

I have a thought for a rear hub that could be machined. It would be the standard 135mm width, with a disk mount on the left side, but with enough threads on the drive side to accomidate two freewheels. I would then use the inner freewheel as the e-drive, with a big sprocket on it (44-46T), and the outer freewheel would be there for the pedal drive. The reason for this, is that it would eliminate the need for a freewheel at the cranks, and one on the drive sprocket. I am working on drawing one up in Solidworks, but I need to know what the dimensions are of the freewheel threads.

Does anyone know these dimensions, and also, what do you think of the idea...can you see any problems with this design?

Thanks,

--Ryan
 
Hi Ryan,
rizzlo34 said:
Does anyone know these dimensions...?
--Ryan
The freewheel threads are 1-3/8"x24
I think freewheels have a built in stop/flange which will have to be machined off to allow it to thread all the way onto the hub...not sure about any other design or workability issues - sounds good though.

Roy
 
Hi Matt,
recumpence said:
Well, we are rolling.
It looks like the bike will be 6 inch travel Urban Assault style. It will be a city bike with good suspension, Hydraulic disc brakes, Astro (single motor) drive with a 3 speed rear hub.
Matt
This sounds really good to me. I kept wanting to put in my 2cents...I thought of a few things is should be and a lot of things that should not but was hard pressed to come up with what you just did. I had the full suspension down but a mountain or down hill bike just was not right...and a non suspension city bike did not do it for me either...sounds more and more like a light weight yet powerful motorcycle...with pedals. I think you nailed it! :mrgreen:

Did you see this?brooklynmachineworks.com_racelink.jpgThe pedals might work normally while the motor drive might work through the swing arm pivot as above.

Roy
 
Hi Ryan,

rizzlo34 said:
I have a thought for a rear hub that could be machined. It would be the standard 135mm width, with a disk mount on the left side, but with enough threads on the drive side to accomidate two freewheels. I would then use the inner freewheel as the e-drive, with a big sprocket on it (44-46T), and the outer freewheel would be there for the pedal drive. The reason for this, is that it would eliminate the need for a freewheel at the cranks, and one on the drive sprocket. I am working on drawing one up in Solidworks, but I need to know what the dimensions are of the freewheel threads.

Does anyone know these dimensions, and also, what do you think of the idea...can you see any problems with this design?

Thanks,

--Ryan

The "problem" I see is that its a lot easier to put a FW at the crank than it is to machine a special hub.
 
rizzlo34 said:
I have a thought for a rear hub that could be machined. It would be the standard 135mm width, with a disk mount on the left side, but with enough threads on the drive side to accomidate two freewheels. I would then use the inner freewheel as the e-drive, with a big sprocket on it (44-46T), and the outer freewheel would be there for the pedal drive. The reason for this, is that it would eliminate the need for a freewheel at the cranks, and one on the drive sprocket. I am working on drawing one up in Solidworks, but I need to know what the dimensions are of the freewheel threads.

Does anyone know these dimensions, and also, what do you think of the idea...can you see any problems with this design?

Thanks,

--Ryan

You may run into a problem with bending axles with your design. The width of the two freewheels may leave a lot of unsupported axle on that side of the hub. I am using an 8 speed freewheel on a hub that gives me a lot of unsupported axle and have bent two axles with just ridding on the road. My set up would never be able to handle any rough ridding. The cassette design and thinner cogs were the answers to this problem as the number of cogs increased over the years.

Bubba
 
I located a powder coating shop near my house. Now I am looking at various parts options for this build.

Once I start recieving parts, I will begin a new thread on this build.

Matt
 
rizzlo34 said:
I have a thought for a rear hub that could be machined. It would be the standard 135mm width, with a disk mount on the left side, but with enough threads on the drive side to accomidate two freewheels. I would then use the inner freewheel as the e-drive, with a big sprocket on it (44-46T), and the outer freewheel would be there for the pedal drive. The reason for this, is that it would eliminate the need for a freewheel at the cranks, and one on the drive sprocket. I am working on drawing one up in Solidworks, but I need to know what the dimensions are of the freewheel threads.

Does anyone know these dimensions, and also, what do you think of the idea...can you see any problems with this design?

Better to use a cassette hub as stated earlier. If you get a uniglide hub you can thread a freewheel straight onto it. See my build as that is what I have done.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8492

Matt... Great work on getting a bike commissioned. You are starting a nice little garage business. I can't wait to see the final product, sounds like a very fun urban assault bike. Should bring some more attention to the viability of electric bikes.

FM
 
I am excited about it too. I already have a deposit for the bike. So, I am on retainer, you might say. :D

The only concern I have now is time. I have a large number of pending orders. I have also only gotten a few deposits. So, I need to complete a few of these orders to get paid so I can afford to fill the others. I just had to pay for $2000 of motors out of my other business account.

So, this is becoming like a regular business now (build this, get paid, take that pay to fund that, get paid, take that pay to fund this other project, etc).

I think I need to chill on generating new orders untill I can get a few of these out the door.

Its all good, though. I enjoy this assuming I do not get too bogged down.

Matt
 
I do not want two separate threads about this. But, if you go to the PK Ripper thread you will notice I sold it today.

Five grand cash. :mrgreen:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9534&start=300

So, on to the next build!

Matt
 
etard said:
... It might be cool to design something with an adjustable wheelbase that rides like a normal motorcycle position at slow speeds, but with the push of a button it folds out into a more aerodynamic position ...

One bicycle designer working for Tunturi bike company here in Finland made a consept bicycle that can transform from recumbent drivin position to an upright bike . Designer Joakim Uimonen now works for Dahon. I actually met him when he asked if he can make a photo of me and my first e-bike with 12 inch wheels (looked very funny, but I burned the motor on third day).

About this bike http://www.bicycledevelopment.com
About Joakim Uimonen http://www.dahon.com/news/newsletter/2009/02/020903.htm
 
northernmike said:
Hyvaa!
Kiitos ;)

Hey!
I were suspecting that you are finn when I saw a finnish flag on your moped. When did you move to other side of atlantic?

Sun pyörä näytti aika paljon vanhalta pappatunturilta, mikäli muistan oikein. Ne on tosi arvokkaita nykyään vaikka ovatkin ihan romuja.

KAI
 
Cool.

I just put a set of White Brother's RC80 forks on the PK Ripper yesterday. Those things are freakin BEAUTIFUL!

Maybe, over this winter, I will build another BMX bike using them.

Hmm, if I do, I will build it wilder! :twisted:

Matt
 
But what you say (I THINK!) about the old bikes is true - the quality is there.

I hope to get more of the moped fanatics into electric conversions once I have the eTek running the way I'd like. (Just need some good batteries now.)

There's a HUGE scene here, in Kalamazoo, Michigan there is a weekend rally annually that draws 2,000 mopeds!

Maybe Matt can do some CNC work for me one day, we could do a little batch of eTek-Motobecane mounts :mrgreen:
 
Hi Matt,

I just ran across the folding bike at a site that caters to pilots and some of your customers are pilots so I thought you might want to do a folding bike (not sure if this particular model is a good choice):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/dahonjetstreamp8.php
ac_headercom_05.jpg

jetstreamp8s.jpg

jetstreamp82s.jpg

The JetStream P8 is ready to tackle the toughest, roughest roads and help say goodbye to intimidating commutes.

Designed in collaboration with suspension-meisters, Geman A, the location of the frame pivot point and suspension kinematics have been special tuned for smaller wheels. In combination with the Kinetix fork, the effect is nothing short of a revelation.
 
Matt

You are building an urban assault bike with 6" travel (rear?)??

Now I'm interested. Your builds have been awesome, but they would all be stuck at the gutter (kerb), along with the Daleks.



Nobody has really done a fully sick dually, apart from Timma2500. I'm dead keen to see a parallel drive bike, as running high power through a derailleur is a disaster waiting to happen. And packaging a parallel drive into a dual-suspension bike just hasn't been done properly yet (AFAIK).

I know everyone here hates hub motors, but if you look at my bike, there's nowhere to put a motor in the frame/drive area. It's too busy, and the driveline is difficult (giving up the rear disc brake is not an option).

It has to be designed from the get-go, not bolted on. Very interested to see how you go.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Matt

You are building an urban assault bike with 6" travel (rear?)??

Now I'm interested. Your builds have been awesome, but they would all be stuck at the gutter (kerb), along with the Daleks.



Nobody has really done a fully sick dually, apart from Timma2500. I'm dead keen to see a parallel drive bike, as running high power through a derailleur is a disaster waiting to happen. And packaging a parallel drive into a dual-suspension bike just hasn't been done properly yet (AFAIK).

I know everyone here hates hub motors, but if you look at my bike, there's nowhere to put a motor in the frame/drive area. It's too busy, and the driveline is difficult (giving up the rear disc brake is not an option).

It has to be designed from the get-go, not bolted on. Very interested to see how you go.

There are a couple out there with twin 3220s on board. The video of the one bike running escapes my memory now (where to find it). He is running parallel left hand drive with a disc brake.

Matt
 
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