BALAKEY said:
The other day I tried using the app. I messed with the settings a little bit but idk.
Hopefully you noted down all the settings on all tabs and pages before changing anything, so you can set them back when something stops working, for troubleshooting.
(sometimes changing settings to incorrect ones can even damage the hardware, so I would not change any setting you are not sure of what it will do, or without a plan for why you are changing that setting).
I believe it also has a shunt so I’m trying to understand what that is.
All systems have shunts (or other forms of current sensor), usually inside the controller. They often only have one on the battery input wires (negative side) to monitor battery current, but some have one on each of the three phase wires to monitor phase currents (FOC controllers).
You can usually find out what your controller has by either looking at it's model-specific manual, or checking with the manufacturer, if it is important to know where and what it is. Normally unless you are modifying the controller (often in ways that may make it fail) it isn't important.
I plan on doing some major upgrades (battery,bac8000 or4000, motor etc…)pretty soon but I need to make sure I understand what I have now before getting to crazy.
Before you do any upgrades, to do it "right the first time" you first need to define what the bike needs to do for you, under what specific conditions. Then you can find out how much power, battery capacity, motor RPM, etc., that it will take to do that job for you. Then you can buy parts that will do those for you.
Just upgrading to something you think has higher power may just be a waste of time and money. (but it happens fairly often, unfortunatley).
Once you've defined the job it has to do, and the conditions it has to do it in, you can use http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html to figure out the equipment it would take to do that job. It's a little complicated, but it is very useful once you learn to use it.
And you'll learn a lot about how the parts of an EV work together to do their job, making it easier to make changes to one to improve it as needed.
https://buildyourebike.com/product/72v-18ah-battery-for-5000-watt/
If you enter the website and scroll down it’s the top battery specs
I don't see anything that shows your specific battery model/brand/etc. The blurry picture shows a labelling style that closely resembles what your has, but it can't be clearly read. If it's not *exactly* the same, then the specs may be wildly different, as it may be made of completely different parts in a completely different way. That's probably not the case here, but it can be.
Even if they are the same manufacturer/model, it doesn't actually have much in the way of important info. If this is the entire specs:
72v 48ah Panasonic Battery. 3456wh Capacity. Supports up to 10,000 Watts. Weight: 15kg. Price delivered: $3550 Cad —– REPLACEMENT FOR MODEL TR3 (worlds longest range ebike battery pack)
Unfortunately it doesn't say what model of cell is in there, or how many (to determine cell-capability for current, voltage sag, etc), or anything about the BMS, etc. Doesn't even have the very basics of either C-rate of pack (multiplier for Ah that gives A) either peak or continuous, or the actual A peak and continuous. Doesnt say if it is 10kw peak or continuous, or if it is peak for how long, etc. All of that is important information to predict battery and system behavior.
One can guess that if the 10kw is a continuous rating that 10000w / 72v = 139A. Guess-extrapolations:
If it's say, a 15p pack of 18650 panasonic cells (no idea which model of cell, lots of different ones available each with different capabilities), then the current for each cell would be 139 / 15 = 9.3A each, which isn't unreasonable. If it's a 10p pack, that's more like 14A each, still reasonable, depending on cell model. It would need a 150A-capable BMS, too, for that.
It's probably more than 10p, as that would require 4.8Ah cells, not sure any of those exist in this type (and even if they do, generally higher current versions have less capacity, and vice-versa). If it was 15p, that's 48Ah / 15 = 3.2Ah, and I think there are a couple or more models of Panasonic with that capacity.
If we knew which cell it had and how many, we'd be able to figure out it's real capabilities, assuming new, well-matched cells. Knowing the BMS specs would also help.