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Wheelchair with Handcycle
- Thread starter spdas
- Start date
spdas
100 W
Lancer_IV said:
Nope still no voltage at any of the plugs that supposed to have 5v.
francis
spdas
100 W
Aloha all. Since this is a new controller (but not dismissing that it could be DOA) and I am not 100% sure of how it functions...
1) do I need to "pedal" to wake up the controller?
or just assume the 5v circuit in the controller is not working? I ordered a cheap 36-48v 350watt controller that should arrive this Thursday to replace it
cause as far as I can tell the controller is toast, unless someone else has any ideas?
francis
1) do I need to "pedal" to wake up the controller?
or just assume the 5v circuit in the controller is not working? I ordered a cheap 36-48v 350watt controller that should arrive this Thursday to replace it
cause as far as I can tell the controller is toast, unless someone else has any ideas?
francis
spdas
100 W
I have a couple of questions about motor wiring.
1) If I am using 48v @ 9 amp do the 3 phase wires carry 9 amps each or 3 amps?
2) The phase wires on the Q100h are tiny, (probably 20ga), at 48v how many amps should I set the limit in the CA3 to?
3) Should the only thing I worry about would be how many amps I am putting through the wires and NOT how many Watts are being used. (so goal should be to up the Volts and decrease the amps?)
Wiring sizing calculator http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
thanks
francis
1) If I am using 48v @ 9 amp do the 3 phase wires carry 9 amps each or 3 amps?
2) The phase wires on the Q100h are tiny, (probably 20ga), at 48v how many amps should I set the limit in the CA3 to?
3) Should the only thing I worry about would be how many amps I am putting through the wires and NOT how many Watts are being used. (so goal should be to up the Volts and decrease the amps?)
Wiring sizing calculator http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
thanks
francis
spdas
100 W
Thanks for all the info. I will read the suggested material in the morning.
But I think my build is unique, (wheelchair driving pod with 16" wheel, Wanting to get to 25-28 mph.)
I feel I need the RPM, but do not need much torque or watts used. I am looking at about 750-800 rpm.
I have the Q100h motor @36v that I am playing with (and could not get the S06P to work), so I will install my Kelly 72v 25amp controller tomorrow.
I would NOT like to burn the motor up right away, so would like to really limit the amps, so wondering what my starting amps should be.
The CA3 has a probe for the Thermistor, How can I utilize that? (my car with zilla controller and warp motor has one too and the controller shuts way back if the motor gets too hot)
thanks, again.
But I think my build is unique, (wheelchair driving pod with 16" wheel, Wanting to get to 25-28 mph.)
I feel I need the RPM, but do not need much torque or watts used. I am looking at about 750-800 rpm.
I have the Q100h motor @36v that I am playing with (and could not get the S06P to work), so I will install my Kelly 72v 25amp controller tomorrow.
I would NOT like to burn the motor up right away, so would like to really limit the amps, so wondering what my starting amps should be.
The CA3 has a probe for the Thermistor, How can I utilize that? (my car with zilla controller and warp motor has one too and the controller shuts way back if the motor gets too hot)
thanks, again.
Ykick
1 GW
I use Q100C and Q128H motors between 500-900W, respectively. I say start with about 10A battery current and go from there.
H motors are supposed to handle more power but remember all of these were originally designed for 350W or so… Keep that in mind.
Is the SO6P sensorless? If so, that’s not gonna work with any H series motor. In fact, good luck finding any controller which can properly sync sensorless.
btw, I'm not gonna follow different threads around so keep it in one or myself and others will probably just ignore...
H motors are supposed to handle more power but remember all of these were originally designed for 350W or so… Keep that in mind.
Is the SO6P sensorless? If so, that’s not gonna work with any H series motor. In fact, good luck finding any controller which can properly sync sensorless.
btw, I'm not gonna follow different threads around so keep it in one or myself and others will probably just ignore...
Geared hubmotors have a poor heat-shedding path from the hot coils to the outside. Like ykick said, 10A seems to be a good starting point for the tiny Q100H. However the Q128H is a little larger and I wouldn't hesitate to try out 15A, especially if I installed a temp probe to monitor how hot the insides are. The Q series has a side-plate style that is easy to remove, if you do decide to add a temp probe.
Raising the volts will raise you total wattage, but...most of the heat in a motor comes from the amps. The reason its hard to give an exact answer, is because two different riders can have widely varied riding styles. When you accelerate from a stop, you will draw whatever peak amps are programmed into the controller. However, after a few seconds, you will likely reach cruising speed, and the motor and controller will both have a chance to run for a minute or two at a lower amp-level...giving them both a chance to cool off.
If you live where it is flat everywhere, you can use a little more amps on start-up, because you will always have lots of cooling off time. But if you live where the hills are long and steep, you must use a lower max amps setting, because there is no cooling off "cruise" phase. I recommend using a controller that is bigger than you need, so it runs very cool, and then add a temp sensor to the motor. Small motors are around $100 if you ever want to replace them, and many riders frequently want a bigger motor after riding for just a short while.
If you are happy with the motor you chose, but the phase wires are running hotter than you are comfortable with, the Q series is easy to open up and replace the phase wires.
Raising the volts will raise you total wattage, but...most of the heat in a motor comes from the amps. The reason its hard to give an exact answer, is because two different riders can have widely varied riding styles. When you accelerate from a stop, you will draw whatever peak amps are programmed into the controller. However, after a few seconds, you will likely reach cruising speed, and the motor and controller will both have a chance to run for a minute or two at a lower amp-level...giving them both a chance to cool off.
If you live where it is flat everywhere, you can use a little more amps on start-up, because you will always have lots of cooling off time. But if you live where the hills are long and steep, you must use a lower max amps setting, because there is no cooling off "cruise" phase. I recommend using a controller that is bigger than you need, so it runs very cool, and then add a temp sensor to the motor. Small motors are around $100 if you ever want to replace them, and many riders frequently want a bigger motor after riding for just a short while.
If you are happy with the motor you chose, but the phase wires are running hotter than you are comfortable with, the Q series is easy to open up and replace the phase wires.
tomjasz
1 GW
Until we need gears, it's easy? Not meant to be sarcastic. But I'd sure like to find a source that reliable and doesn't mean bank fees and extra charges. I know I'm gonna end up cooking my MXUS and once done, there's no replacements for it either. Damn shame given all the good reviews. Maybe Luna will get excited about these motors some day.spinningmagnets said:
spdas
100 W
Playing all day and kinda getting it running. Two settings....
1) Setting in the Kelly controller is asking for 60 or 120 degrees. Which does the Q100h use?
2) To get the motor running properly, do I mess with the position of the Phase wires or only the thin Hall Wires?
I have tried every (I think every) possible combination and can only get a slow nudge or a crackling slow rpm
thanks
francis
1) Setting in the Kelly controller is asking for 60 or 120 degrees. Which does the Q100h use?
2) To get the motor running properly, do I mess with the position of the Phase wires or only the thin Hall Wires?
I have tried every (I think every) possible combination and can only get a slow nudge or a crackling slow rpm
thanks
francis
spdas
100 W
Aloha, after 3-4 hours with my laptop onto the Kelly setup, and switching hall wires forever. it finally runs ----yahhh. the CA3 says 24mph. @ 48v.
Question,
1) how can the CA3 display rpm? (not a cadence) as I have no petals?
2) where is the best place to set amps and volts, etc. at CA3 or the Controller program?
Now to tidy the wires up and go out for a burn!!
thanks for all your help
francis
Question,
1) how can the CA3 display rpm? (not a cadence) as I have no petals?
2) where is the best place to set amps and volts, etc. at CA3 or the Controller program?
Now to tidy the wires up and go out for a burn!!
thanks for all your help
francis
spdas
100 W
Aloha all. Finally I took it for a test spin and it runs really well.
Performance:
I am running the q100h 36v motor (350 watts) at 72v and the controller is limiting to 13 amps.
I am pulling 300 to 500 watts with calm acceleration and 1000 watts when I punch it. I can cruise at 400 watts after I get up to speed @19-23 mph or so.
What will burn out the motor? High Watts or high amperage?
What effect does the 72v battery have on the intended 36v motor?
Control:
The steering is a bit tweaky at higher speed. (almost the same effect that you would have on a bicycle with over-tightened steering head bearings)
Would giving my rig more "Rake" improve the control, you think?
Thanks
Francis
Performance:
I am running the q100h 36v motor (350 watts) at 72v and the controller is limiting to 13 amps.
I am pulling 300 to 500 watts with calm acceleration and 1000 watts when I punch it. I can cruise at 400 watts after I get up to speed @19-23 mph or so.
What will burn out the motor? High Watts or high amperage?
What effect does the 72v battery have on the intended 36v motor?
Control:
The steering is a bit tweaky at higher speed. (almost the same effect that you would have on a bicycle with over-tightened steering head bearings)
Would giving my rig more "Rake" improve the control, you think?
Thanks
Francis
spdas
100 W
Aloha, all. Who has experience to say which ebay or Alibaba site has the Chinese 48v packs made from first quality cells not the reject cells?
1) either 20ah with or without case in the $400 price range
2) either 12ah with or without case in the $200 price range
3) or even a little more in price to get them from the US?
And what is the shipping time?
thanks
Francis
1) either 20ah with or without case in the $400 price range
2) either 12ah with or without case in the $200 price range
3) or even a little more in price to get them from the US?
And what is the shipping time?
thanks
Francis
spdas
100 W
eTrike said:
Now thats a great site. Fair prices, seems to be quality. Looking at the 52v 13.5 bottle ones. thanks
francis
le15otl
100 W
Would you be against getting lipo's?
For $260 you can get two 20ah batteries which in series give you 20ah at 48v.
For $260 you can get two 20ah batteries which in series give you 20ah at 48v.
999zip999
100 TW
Hell it's a bike not a hobby charging and balancing batteries, oh I forgot lvc.
Luna cycle has quality cells. Duracell on steroids with the new 18650 cells. I get the best as less stress. Plug and play. Simple enough for your father or ?
What's it for ?
Luna cycle has quality cells. Duracell on steroids with the new 18650 cells. I get the best as less stress. Plug and play. Simple enough for your father or ?
What's it for ?
Concerning lunacycle's batterys i have some questions: i see there are in total 3 different 48V 20Ah batteries. The only difference is the weight and dimensions as I see it. Are there any major differences other than that for
http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v-samsung-18650-20ah-ebike-battery/
and
http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v-20ah-lithium-polymer-battery/
Apart from being Chinese and being Samsung and weight/dimensions i don't see a difference. Am i missing something?
http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v-samsung-18650-20ah-ebike-battery/
and
http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v-20ah-lithium-polymer-battery/
Apart from being Chinese and being Samsung and weight/dimensions i don't see a difference. Am i missing something?
Jon NCal
1 kW
One is Samsung 18650, the other is lipo cells.poeli said:
999zip999
100 TW
Between the two the Samsung pack has a much higher discharge rate. So higher quality. May last longer. But these is all on paper. It how you use and treat your battery over time. One cans one pouches.
Jon NCal
1 kW
No, lipo would not be better due to fire hazard and possibility of physical damage. And in this case excess weight.poeli said:
Edit: These are pouch cells like r/c lipo. Confirmed with luna, is not lifepo4.
le15otl
100 W
They're only a fire hazard if you mistreat them though
999zip999
100 TW
A can cell is under compression and harder to damage on a bike.
Hobby king has the cheapest lipo not the best quality. Why do they say buy an extra.
Hobby king has the cheapest lipo not the best quality. Why do they say buy an extra.
spdas
100 W
Aloha, I am running my 350w Q100h motor on 72v and wondering if this performance is typical.
AS I feather the throttle, (just nudge the throttle) the motor makes a lot of racket up to about 2-3 mph then it starts to quieten and by 5-7 mph it is quiet.
Up to then it is grinding and jerking at 1/16th throttle on take off. Is this normal?
I drove around for 10 miles at normal stop and go (up to 28mph in spurts) and the motor was only slightly warm. I was cruising at 500-600 watts (under 10 amps) and sometimes down to 250 watts.
Since I am using 72v, in a small motor rated at 36v 350w, should I expect it to last under those conditions?
thanks
francis
AS I feather the throttle, (just nudge the throttle) the motor makes a lot of racket up to about 2-3 mph then it starts to quieten and by 5-7 mph it is quiet.
Up to then it is grinding and jerking at 1/16th throttle on take off. Is this normal?
I drove around for 10 miles at normal stop and go (up to 28mph in spurts) and the motor was only slightly warm. I was cruising at 500-600 watts (under 10 amps) and sometimes down to 250 watts.
Since I am using 72v, in a small motor rated at 36v 350w, should I expect it to last under those conditions?
thanks
francis
e-beach
10 MW
spdas said:
My DD motor gowns somewhat if I feather it a bit. At least until I get my bike moving. That sound is normal to me. It might be that the motor just doesn't have the torque to move you easily until you chair is moving.....Your controller is sensored?
I don't know if "expect" is in the equation because your setup is an original. it is now speculation. My guess is that you motor could last for years if you don't over heat it. A little warm in my setup is normal. Too hot to touch is Waaaay To Hot! So if you motor around and the motor is warm but not hot then you are probably OK.
Only time will tell.
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