Two points to watch out for here.
The rating on a switch is different for AC and DC, check which one they are quoting. The DC rating is usually a lot less than the AC rating.
Secondly, the use it gets put to on an e-bike is different to what it was designed or rated for. The quoted rating is mainly about the voltage and current it can disconnect. Eg, a 30 A automotive switch might be for turning headlights on and off. On an e-bike, normally one would turn it off after closing the throttle, so the turn off current is low - except in an emergency disconnect.
Against that is the punishment the switch gets on turn on. Turning on headlights or a similar load is a mild affair compared to turning on the power to a motor controller. The controller has capacitors that have to be charged, there is an enormous inrush current and this can cause arcing at the switch contacts.
Basically, go for a high DC rating; try to get some margin on both voltage and current. But don't get too hung up on the quoted specs. They may not represent how long it actually lasts in this application.
Nick