Why are so many trying to chase high speeds? Reality check

As I said I'm glad to be someones speed dealer. This thread is just a word of caution since many don't know what they are getting into and try to jump into the deep end too soon.
 
For a 30mph-40mph bike there are a lot of lighter competitors.

True, but Cromotor will last forever and will never overheat if used like that. Our intention was to offer 100 % reliable everyday comuter motor.

We use then in Zagreb with 72 V 100 A limit, max speed up to 80 kmh, and zero problems.

My prefered crusing speed is about 50 kmh


after the posting about the Italian guy doing 84mph on a 13kv wind, so I'm not surprised there are folks like me who want it for speed.

I think that we cleared this mess before. Italian guy used "regular" 9,1kv wind, when testing highest speed.

We made mistake declaring 13kv, because we were misleaded with manufacturers info.


Personally I'd like to see what can be done in a lightweight, solid DH bike, and I'd like to exceed my current 72mph top speed. Plus the 13kv wind is at the sweet spot, fast at 72v for daily use, and scary fast exhibition bike on 144v. 9kv is great for dirt/hills, on the street some folks might get tired of keeping the nose down and opt for drivability. I'd wager that torque loading from the 9kv motor and wheelies is way harder on the frame than exhibition riding at 100mph with 8" of travel.


2 motors will come with real 13 kv windings for building scary fast exibitiong racing bicycle. Will be tested by Doc and Zombie. after real life test we might include them in our products list, or discontinue.

This will be special version, like dragster motor. For racing only.




In other threads I have seen you post that the 13kv wind is a controller killer, but a generic 250a Kelly has already done 84mph on it.

No Kelly was not used with 13kv motor. it was used with 9,1 kv motor.



Maybe the infineons aren't up to it,

Infineons with 24 or 36 fet are up to it 100 %, but proffessionaly upgraded.


We can easily offer 20-30kw motors, but will not do that. There is no sense in pushing bicycle to 100mph+ speeds.

... on the other hand we are not building e-bicycles only.
 
I find my 22 to 38 KPH is too damn fast sometimes. People that are trying to go faster are simply insane. You want an electric motorcycle then build one, you want an electric bike keep it in the legal range(even if you have an emergency boost).
 
Accountant said:
We can easily offer 20-30kw motors, but will not do that. There is no sense in pushing bicycle to 100mph+ speeds.

... on the other hand we are not building e-bicycles only.

SHHHH!! Don't spoil the surprises :p :mrgreen:

As for the Italian guy that went 84MPH he was running something like 144V and had it in a 26" wheel correct? If that's the case and I simulate it using those you could run 85 MPH with a high current battery that didn't sag too much such as NanoTech / A123 cells. We measured the motor at 9.3 kV in the video. When I plug these numbers for the 9.3 kV motor simulation I created I get a bike that has a top speed of a little over 85mph @ 144V while drawing 171A from the battery. Not too shabby. Says it has an output of almost 20kW an only generates 3.3kw of waste heat. On a 10% grade it would slow down to around 81 mph and draw about 200A.

Hell, if I up my voltage to 144V myself and use NanoTech packs I should be able to go 73mph while only drawing 105A in my 20.5" tires. That's pretty controller friendly. I've already gone 61mph at 125V with the voltage sagging. I'm going to GPS the bike again this weekend with the 30S2P Nanotech packs and see if it tops out any faster. Sim says the change in battery should let me get to 64mph because of having less voltage sag. I'll only be producing around 1kw of waste heat too :)

Not really sure why we need 13kV motors (beyond me wanting one to stress my controller power stage), higher voltage seems like a much better solution as has already been proven by someone going over 80mph with one of these same 9.3 kV motors. But as always, if there is a demand, I'm pretty sure Accountant and I will be happy to fill it within reason. Just like he and I talked about offering a very limited run of an even higher powered hub motor than this one in the future for those who want to go over 100mph.

Limited runs cost more money so payment would be due up front, but if you guys really want it for racing or what ever your purpose, I'll try to persuade Accountant to get a price for you and what the minimum order would be. I think a 6-7KW motor at 12KV would satisfy most anyone's speed craving. Feed it with a 200V 15AH pack and it should get you somewhere around 120mph in a 22" tire. Probably need around 400-450A capable controller to be safe. Motor would probably cost at least $1500 (just guess, Accountant can get us real numbers if enough are interested) but you'd have the ultimate bragging rights.

Anyone want one? I'd be more than happy to sell some personally. I already have the name picked out for it. It will be the Ludicrous Speed motor.
 
neptronix said:
Well stated, zombiess..

I would say most bicycle bits are good up to 30-35mph. The cromotor will propel you to speeds far over that; it will require motorcycle/scooter grade brakes and an extended swingarm to prevent the ensuing wheelies. It will likely round out rear dropouts without having proper torque plates in seconds.

a) go for magura gustav m
b) buy doctorsbass' torque plates

at least this is what i will make :)
 
I am one of the apparently rare top speed freaks. I am aiming to build a bike that will go 120km/h-150km/h. I am not planning on riding it at those speeds on city roads; not aiming to do highway speeds in rural environments. Personally, I accept I will eventually crash riding two wheels AND COULD DIE. As luke says, that not withstanding, I have a SNELL rated full face helmet, gauntlets, a jacket (still need armour) pants and boots. That's 600+$ in gear alone.
I will be using a 144v 300 amp kelly, and a custom rewound hs60. I have a Norco Aline that gets its rear dropouts replaced and extended; I have yet to decide if I will lower the rear axle and use smaller tires or go with 26 inch. I will almost certainly have a microcontroller interface that will do controller output to soften the throttle curves and eliminate wheelies.
So, here is my question. I, personally, think that this bike will be safe. I think that the components will easily handle brief periods of those extreme speeds. I think that wearing that gear, I am essentially as safe as I would be on ANY homebuilt from scratch race capable motorcycle. "Safe" really meaning "trying as hard as possible not to die in a potentially deadly thrill ride, and assessing that the fun is worth death if it were to happen".

WHAT DO YOU THINK?; I HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BE WRONG :)
 
Andje, your gear may be perfect, but hit a solid obstacle at 100 or more kph and you may die.
Road is not racetrack. That's why can drivers call road race bikers organ donors.
Still, many do suvive, and we all have to assess the risks ourselves.
 
If I ever find myself using an ebike for a commuter. A DH frame is all I would consider. I would feel safe up to 40-45 on such a bike. Above that I would want thicker brakes and motorcycle tires.
 
Lebowski said:
I think our great-grandpa's riding on harley peashooters had much bigger balls than us :?
My grandpa have never seen a motorcycle, other than on pictures. He was riding, mostly driving, horses exclusively. So did I, until I left the farm and bought my first bicycle at 14 years of age.

Yet, it takes more balls to ride horses than motorcycles, especially when all the horses that you own, have their balls. Riding a bucking bull is what takes the biggest balls, it is house of pain each and every time. Bikes are so smoooth, and obedient. :wink:
 
Flipping horses are quite dangerous. Ask any old western rancher. Most of em limp from something a horse did to em.

My take is that the real issue with crazy high speeds on bike equipment is tires. Brakes exist that are good, frames exist that are good, but tires simply aren't laid up with continuous 50 mph use in mind. But if your "bike" is sporting moped rims and tires, you have a leg up on that.

One track day toasts a set of tires. They look fine oustside, but inside the cords will be all shredded. So if you are going to run bike tires, figure on about 20-50 mile lifespans if you run hard.

As for crashing, if you hit a solid object, the other term is sucidecle. But if you are riding like that, and haven't done a 30 mph laydown, you better practice. Then get your 40 mph laydown. Get familiar with correcting a high speed wobble too. You better be a real rider, or all the armor won't mean shit when you crash. Crashing well is a vital skill.
 
Farfle said:
dogman wrote:
Crashing well is a vital skill.


Agreed, knowing how to lay it down right is VERY important.

I knew I'd get some good advice. I "think" i know how to lay it down but have never actually done it; i will go watch some vids right now, I'm sure there is advice available so I am as prepared as I can be for when it happens.
 
Farfle said:
dogman said:
Crashing well is a vital skill.

Agreed, knowing how to lay it down right is VERY important.

+1

I am chasing high speed to stay safe.
I feel that to be safe riding in town, I need to take the lane.
Otherwise I'm stuck riding the nail trail & get run over.
Left turned, douches racing to pass you, only to slam on the brakes to turn right.
Asholes :evil:


So I aim for 80 kph WOT
To get a 60kph avg.
Compensate for hills, wind, douches & such.
I strongly agree with others, 40+ mph requires upgrades to the typical wallybike.
I believe I have that covered with my new build. (see StrongBike in sig.)
I don't have to use full power,
but it's the best tool you have to save your ass,
In certain situations.

Ride within your limits
The environment
Your mental state.

Ride safe y'all.
 
You don't need a motor and batteries to get hurt really bad. A friend of mine took a dump when his commuter bike's front wheel went out from under him on a wet lane stripe. Shattered bone just below the knee, surgery, lots of stainless hardware and months of rehabilitation and he still walks with a limp, though he is back on a bike.

I think this thread is great, a good reminder to be safe, or at the very least, be aware of the risks.

If I want sheer speed, a ride on my R1100GS will cure that itch. the bike will do 120mph, but I've never had the need to go about 80. The GS is ridden in a fully-armored Aerostich suit, with boots, gloves and full-face helmet (ATGATT) every time I get on it.

Acceleration can get me out of a scrape, when used wisely, and I agree with the guys installing larger, higher-voltage motors for added margin.

As for me, something that will do 20-25mph average, with enough acceleration to beat the cagers across the intersection and that looks as "stock" as possible suits me fine. If I wanted faster speeds, I'd just buy an electric motorcycle. Reality is though, that $10-14K buys a LOT of gas, tires, brake pads and maintenance for the GS...
 
dogman said:
As for crashing, if you hit a solid object, the other term is sucidecle. But if you are riding like that, and haven't done a 30 mph laydown, you better practice. Then get your 40 mph laydown. Get familiar with correcting a high speed wobble too. You better be a real rider, or all the armor won't mean shit when you crash. Crashing well is a vital skill.

I wish Farfle would post my first race track experience on my bike before the swing arm extensions. I think he got my two crashes on tape. Pretty minor low sides on a race track = sliding and some minor bike damage. 1st was in jeans and leather jacket at maybe 25ish into the dirt, non issue, dust + holes in shirt. 2nd was full leathers leaned over in a corner somewhere above 20mph chasing Farfles girl racer and since I was right on her ass and catching her in the corners (she was faster on the straights) I was pushing hard and about 5 ft behind her for 2 laps unable to pass, felt the rear start twitching but didn't back off. One tiny slip of the throttle was all it took and down I went. Slight scrapes on me from the leathers and a bruised left thumb for about 3 weeks, but no serious damage. I only finished 1 out of 3 races but damn was it fun. My first time ever racing on 2 wheels. Bike topped out in the low 40mph range on the straight. I posted pictures of my 160mm rotor which was new prior to this race, it looked like this after about 10 miles of riding:

hotdisc.jpg


Went to 8" rotors after that, now my front brake looks somewhat similar but is still in good shape, as is the disc in the pic. It just got hot. Racing and high speed is very hard on parts. Managed to freeze one of the pistons in an Avid Juicey brake which thankfully broke free later after massaging it a little. Now works just fine but is in the parts bin.

Riding on the track like that taught me I needed much better tires, a longer swing arm and I learned the limits of my bike because I wasn't afraid of crashing in full gear on a race track where very little usually goes wrong in a wreck. That was the hardest I had ever ridden any 2 wheeled vehicle in my life, taught me a lot and had a blast... until I had to repair the hall/phase wires on my 9C later the next week, that sucked.
 
They first warp like a potato chip, and then just WAD UP in a mess that fortunately seems to sheer off rather than lock the wheel if you push them much harder than that. :)
 
liveforphysics said:
They first warp like a potato chip, and then just WAD UP in a mess that fortunately seems to sheer off rather than lock the wheel if you push them much harder than that. :)

I've heard you say that, luckily my bike and me were light, not very fast and I didn't use the brakes a whole lot so all I got was color change, no warping. I'm not Luke, creator and destroyer of all things mechanical and electrical :D

BTW, I wanna ride the death bike in a straight line, but I need to borrow some leathers. I'm hoping it scares me from acceleration and not safety. Would be nice to feel that again.
 
zombiess said:
I'm not Luke, creator and destroyer of all things mechanical and electrical :D

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


zombiess said:
BTW, I wanna ride the death bike in a straight line, but I need to borrow some leathers. I'm hoping it scares me from acceleration and not safety. Would be nice to feel that again.

You're welcome to borrow my leathers and explore your limits anytime you like my friend.
 
Its funny zombie as I say exactly the same thing on the podcast just gone :p for me 30mph is quick enough however I do see the attraction with higher speeds but think as you said folks need to understand the risks, downhill bikes are good contenders for higher speed rides, walmart specials at 50mph is a big no no you havent got to consider just your own safety what about the guy in the truck behind you that has to swerve to avoid you when your bike fails, its too easy to simply consider your own safety, Imagine if that was your son, mother or wife following if they didnt hit and kill the rider, well you can see anything can happen and as you said its not if its when.

I have lots of experience of riding and falling off motorbikes as a kid, you slow down as you get older for a good reason, these big hubbies are really motorcycle motors or moped motors if you like, there is a place for high speed ebikes and Luke has found that place on the track, the possible risks to yourself and other road users running power levels that high on pushbikes simply isnt worth it IMHO (Luke understands the risks and protects himself and the bike is a tank with motorcycle brakes) , I love ebikes and I love anything electric however I could lose my house and my job if I hit and kill someone riding at high speed if they can prove I was riding an unlicensed motorbike you can fit peddles if you like but no court in the land it going to believe a 200lb guy was peddling at 60mph on a flat road before the old man stepped off the sidewalk.

Good post zombie, responsible to make a post like this.
 
Some of us aren't even using full face helmets while riding wal-bikes at +5kw. Hell, I get nervous when I hit a patch of sand/gravel/water going 30mph with my 2.5" tires.

I try to be as safe as possible. Which is why I'm so slow at climbing the tech ladder; I upgraded all the safety components on my bike BEFORE I invested in a big controller/battery pack. But even I make stupid mistakes. It probably is only a matter of time before some noob like me makes a stupid mistakes and gets killed.

My family know I understand the risks, but you better be damn careful with how you market these hubzillas because americans like to sue.
 
It's kinda funny...

I didn't get a motor to get speed at all. I have a motor for distance. Without a motor I was able to pass cars in 35 mph zones (no idea if they are actually going 35, my cyclometer craps out somewhere around 20 mph, stupid cheap thing). Going that fast didn't feel safe at all. Partly because the bike itself really isn't meant to handle those speeds, and partly because I'm not meant to handle those speeds. The frame itself vibrates in ways that feels bad, like it's straining. And I have to concentrate way too hard. Sure, it was fun to do a few times, especially when I was young and stupid (now I'm just old and stupid), but it got boring pretty fast. When I put a motor on it, I wasn't doing it for speed, I was doing it so that I could ride to work without getting sweaty (uphill) yet enjoy a good pedal ride home. I rarely went very fast once I had the motor, but it actually felt a bit more stable with some more weight down low on the bike.

And then ya know what I did? I went and bought an Electra cruiser, and moved the motor over to it. Best thing I ever did. Because that bike is so comfy I can ride it for hours. With the motor and pedaling, the max speed on that thing is just a touch over 20mph, but that frame is NOT meant to go that high and feels terrible. But it feels great between 11 mph and 17 mph. I can ride that thing for hours, plugging along slowly, get a work out, enjoy the ride, enjoy the scenery. It's fantastic. Sure, I get passed by people on bikes without motors, but I can go five times the distance they can!

If anything, I would actually make my bike heavier. Turn it into an Electric Electra Xtracycle. Perhaps some day I'll upgrade my battery so I can ride even further. But I'll probably never upgrade it to go faster. Because sometimes it's more fun to just poke along at a nice leisurely pace.
 
I know if I only cared about going fast I wouldn't have been able to drop my resting heart rate from 85bpm to 68bpm and my blood pressure from 138/88 to 124/75 in just one year. I like to pedal most of the time, I just can't over exert myself due to back problems. I can't even ride a road bike any more and my roommate just bought a really nice new one and I'm jealous because I'll never be able to ride one again. As a kid most of what I owned were road bikes because I always rode everywhere, it was my mode of transport and my freedom. Use to ride 15 miles from home one way to a friends house all the time when I was 12.

Oh well, not like I'm ever going to slow down as long as I'm having fun and am confident in my machine. Having a fast ebike is fun because I love racing cars with it and riding it to work even if I only ride slow and pedal. Power rules, you just need to be responsible and careful.
 
I have an old buddy that I grew up with who is now piloting 747 passenger jets for a major air carrier. He fly's all over the world now, but I used to go flying with him when he was only checked out for single engine prop planes. Eventually, he got checked out for twin engine prop planes. And one day he came to my house all excited and he told me that he had just got his license to fly jets.

In my mind I thought that he must have had to go through a bizillion hours of flight training to go from prop planes to jets, so I asked him how many hours of training he needed to go through just to fly a jet. He told me six. :shock: :shock: :shock:

"Six?!" I said. "Yes" he said. "Why so little?" I asked. So he told me.

"There is not much difference between flying a twin engine prop plane and a twin engine jet, except things happen four times faster in a jet so your preparations and reactions have to be four times faster as well." :wink:

So think about it you speed demons. Is your bike set up to take forces x-times faster then designed? Are your reflexes really x-times faster then the guy in the car who doesn't see you?

Are you really that prepared and skilled for your x-time ride? Every day?

And when you crash, is your body x-times stronger the the average human so your skin won't rip and your bones wont crack?

I'm just sayin'..... :twisted:

In any case...enjoy the ride! :D
 
And your buddy reallllllly put in a lot of hours in the small plane, just to get his first pilot certificate. Then a lot of flight time without major problems is the real test for jet cert.

I tend to strongly disagree that taking the lane in a high speed road is safer. (In USA traffic) It's dangerous as hell to be there on regular motorcycles. Sure, you eliminate the right cross, but you double the frequency of the left cross. I'm not talking out my ass here, I've been crossed more than once when I was doing 50 mph, and am alive to tell the tale because I had the riding skills to thread the needle in the traffic and not get hit. Your stopping distance will be gone when it happens, I assure you that. The frocker simply won't see you at all, whether on an ebike or a motorcyle. You'll have a nanosecond to decide if you are going to hook a left, hook a left then thread the needle right, or throw it sideways. Riding skills, and you don't get them unless you take it to the dirt and scuff the hell out of a bike. Then transfer the ability to steer a skid to paved. Practice practice, and it WILL ruin one bike.

Anyway. back to taking the lane. In the USA, if your route must go for miles on a high traffic high speed road with no bike lane or good shoulder, you're a moron for commuting on a bike. Find a better route, a safe long cut, or get a real motorclyle and take your chances. People see you on that 50 mph ebike, they still think bicycle, and they will left cross you over and over and over, thinking you are going 20 mph. At 20-25 mph you can deal with right crossers. Faster, and you have to kick the car to prevent going under the wheels. Again, they think you are slower. So 35 mph in a bike lane is dangerous, again, get a better route if the road is just too full of places people turn in on you.

Anybodies route will have some part that sucks, but usually you can cross a road and go another way, or limit yourself to a short bit to get past that underpass or whatever. We have road rights, but stupid people ride stupid places and eventually the odds catch up.

I'm not saying don't build a fast ebike. Just don't fool yourself thinking you are so safe out there playing tag with cars simply because you have some speed. Fine to occasionally head out for some fun or do a short commute, but a long commute on dangerous roads is just dumb. Going out an laying er down is relatively safe, but going out and whacking a car, no matter how much armor you wear, that is going to really hurt.

One last word. When I say don't take the lane, I mean don't take it and keep it for miles unless you are on low traffic streets. On a busy street you should take the lane when the traffic slows and you come to a stoplight or stop sign on a busy road. Don't expect to be noticed by folks turning right if you are in a bike lane when the light turns green. Any decent ebike has the acceleration to get in the lane, and take it till you get across the intersection, or make your left turn. Once across, then merge to the bike lane again, or dive into the parking lots, turn to a lower traffic street, or whatever.
 
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