Wire size for 2000 Amp

CroDriver

100 W
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
167
Location
Croatia
John Wayland is using 4/0 gauge wire in his White Zombie. That's 107 mm².

I was thinking about 120 mm² wire size for 2000 Amps burst. What do you guys think?
 
I would run double passes of 00 awg. It's easy to find in premium fine stranded and flexible types, two passes of it are 21% better than 0000, and it's a hell of a cheaper, easier to work with, more common to find for sale, and lays flatter in a vehicle than a single pass of 0000.

-Luke
 
Here is Methy's 0000 awg wire. He ordered from a guy that let you pick custom insulation color, and let you custom print what ever you want onto the side of the wire.

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LOWRACER said:
2000A? That only depends by the way, distance and the time!
Every AMP produces heat, if you have a bigger distance so will have a higher resistance!

The resistance increases linearly with the surface area of the cable available to reject heat. A 1ft cable at 2000amps will run at roughly the same temp as a 1000ft cable at 2000amps, dispite the 1000ft cable having 1,000times the heating energy going into it.


But here is a little trick:
Don't lay the cable into a tube, so the heat can't gonna away.

Why use a cable small enough that heating is a concern at all? It's a waste of battery energy and performance. Soft insulation on unprotected cables with leathal voltage in them and no covering or sheilding seems like a very good idea. ;)

Use single cable/single conductor
For what reason?

From a specific diameter,that's normal 95mm²,you can use one or more parallel cables

My idea for this electric vehicle "White Zombie".....
The battery is the heaviest thing, that I would made on the rear powered axle.

It sits in the trunk directly over the rear axle.

The cables to the controller are mounted under the ground of the car.

Lol, there is no point on a 510 chassis to mount a lead that can carry 2000amps with out melting into goo. I own and race one, and the chassis is like tin-can thickness. lol You can mount a giant copper lug onto it, but the local resistance around the area you connect would be kinda like running some 12awg wire or something similar, steel is an awful conductor, you need roughly 10 times the thickness of steel to match copper.

The 3-phases motor is directly near the controller.
Parallel to the controller I would made a lot of "BoostCaps" or "SuperCaps",
then the motor works better in load changes.

For the weight, the voltage can be stabilized so much better, along with adding useful energy storage by using that same volume and mass towards adding more low internal resistance batteries than supercaps/boostcaps. We've worked the numbers out on here a zillion times, it's suprizing, but it's the reality of the matter. Supercaps had the ability to be useful before modern cell design dropped the Ri of cells to the levels we see today in performance batteries (like CroDriver is using).

Additonal I would choose a higher voltage, because Power= Volt x Ampere.
EXAMPLE, a 230V/2000Watt vacuum cleaner takes 8.6A, then a 5meter 2x1.5mm² cable is enough.
If you change the voltage to 12V/2000Watt the cleaner takes 166A and you will need a 2x120mm².
So it can happen that you need 5 persons for cleaning, 3 to pull the cable and 2 push the cleaner!!!

I think everybody going for maximum performance all ready runs at the maximum voltage the controller can handle without failure. :)

Here a another good solution of a compact high power battery,
together with LithiumPolymer,SuperCaps and later a 2-fan-cooler!
One cell has got only 2x650mAh, so everybody think that's nothing,
BUT if you take 180pcsx2x650mAh, that's a little power station!!!

Yep, you've got 0.8kw-hrs. That's about like a typical electric bicycle pack. A little more than a 36v 20Ah pack, and a little less than a 48v 20Ah pack. You may be surprized to know that you can have the same amount of energy with just 7 RC LiPo packs from Hobby City, which can all fit into something about half the size of a shoebox, and still have a pack with equal energy storage, and capable of ~20,000w discharge rate. It also only requires making about 20 solder connections and a couple hours to build it all. :)

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Hi

I'm new to all this, but why is no-one using amorphous metal as used in underfloor heating systems. It seems it conducts better as the heat rises, which seems mad to me but is one of the properties that make it safe for under carpet systems.
http://www.allbriteunderfloorheating.co.uk/underfloorheatingribbon.asp No doubt someone will point it out.

Best regards

Martin A
 
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