Wired Freedom... need a new LCD display.

[Discoinferno]

The LCD display on my 60V wired freedom shorted out. The factory display is the KT-LCD8H with USB and a 9 inch wire. It has the WP type plug. All of the displays I've found with the WP plug are advertised to be okay for 24V to 48V, and the 60V to 72V displays have the SM type 5 pin plug with a 70 plus inch wire to reach back to the controller. Support from Wired is lazy at best. Does the Freedom have a voltage regulator between the controller and the display, or does this made in China company have their advertisement wrong? Is it actually okay up to 60V? Can I order the KT-LCD8H off of eBay and not sweat it getting smoked on a 60V system? Or can anyone direct me as to where I can get a 60 volter with a WP type plug?
I did take it apart... and inside on the circuit board, it says 94V - 0.
I don't want to waste $80 on something that's gonna fry. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[E-HP]

The LCD display on my 60V wired freedom shorted out. The factory display is the KT-LCD8H with USB and a 9 inch wire. It has the WP type plug. All of the displays I've found with the WP plug are advertised to be okay for 24V to 48V, and the 60V to 72V displays have the SM type 5 pin plug with a 70 plus inch wire to reach back to the controller. Support from Wired is lazy at best. Does the Freedom have a voltage regulator between the controller and the display, or does this made in China company have their advertisement wrong? Is it actually okay up to 60V? Can I order the KT-LCD8H off of eBay and not sweat it getting smoked on a 60V system? Or can anyone direct me as to where I can get a 60 volter with a WP type plug?
I did take it apart... and inside on the circuit board, it says 94V - 0.
I don't want to waste $80 on something that's gonna fry. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

If you order the one with the right voltage, and are confident in your soldering skills, you could open both, and swap the new cable with the old one.

PS. Are you sure that the stock display and controller aren't using some kind of custom firmware? There's no guaranty that if you buy one from some place other than Wired, that it will work.

 

[Discoinferno]

I'm not a techie. Electronics speak in Greek to me. As far as I'm concerned, firmware is yoga pants and a fully wired supportive brazeire.
I haven't soldered anything since 1990... and that was in a high-school shop class that I took to fill in my schedule around the required credits.
I can't differentiate a circuit board from my anus.
Fluid dynamics is my niche. Applications and manufacturing engineering.
I opened up the LCD and the controller box. Do either of these pictures assist in formulating a solution?

 

[lnanek]

Often, to replace the display, you also need to replace the controller at the same time. Unless you get a replacement directly from the company you got the bike from. It isn't enough to match that model number.

This happens a lot with companies like Rad, for example. The problem is these data lines on the pin out:


The companies often tweak what exactly is sent so it doesn't match exactly. E.g. off the shelf display will send 8 values to the controller, controller may expect a ninth value to work. Ninth value may be nearly pointless like a headlight on/off or something, but controller often won't work without it.

Not all displays use the full voltage for much. Usually it's looped back to the ignition pin to turn on the controller which then feeds a converter to provide low voltage from the controller. Maybe also a voltage divider that can then feed a battery capacity remaining display.

 

[E-HP]

I'm not a techie. Electronics speak in Greek to me. As far as I'm concerned, firmware is yoga pants and a fully wired supportive brazeire.
I haven't soldered anything since 1990... and that was in a high-school shop class that I took to fill in my schedule around the required credits.
I can't differentiate a circuit board from my anus.
Fluid dynamics is my niche. Applications and manufacturing engineering.
I opened up the LCD and the controller box. Do either of these pictures assist in formulating a solution?

You could open the new display, verify that the wires are the same color, then cut the cord and splice the old to the new and consulate with heat shrink or plain electrical tape to avoid soldering.

You can’t tell by pictures if the company had KT add custom firmware (perhaps to meet legal requirements/restrictions, etc.

 

[Discoinferno]

Thanks. Cutting, splicing, and heat shrink is more my game. Just had to do that on my '90 Wrangler fuel pump.
This model is programmable to be unrestricted and tops out at approx 42 mph. It comes from the factory preset to not exceed 20 mph.
They're not too concerned about legality issues.

 

[E-HP]

Thanks. Cutting, splicing, and heat shrink is more my game. Just had to do that on my '90 Wrangler fuel pump.
This model is programmable to be unrestricted and tops out at approx 42 mph. It comes from the factory preset to not exceed 20 mph.
They're not too concerned about legality issues.

That's good news. Seems there's a good chance that the display and controller aren't specifically modified/restricted for the bike.

What I'm really impressed by is that they still had shop during the 90s in some schools. I recall in jr high and high school, welding and autoshop were always popular/full (in junior high, they still had home ec lol). I ended up doing woodworking and taking a house wiring course. That stuff has been long gone from schools from what I could tell.

 

[Discoinferno]

I took woodshop and powered mechanics. I scheduled my curriculum so I had 6th and 7th period study halls. Then I could skate out early every day as long as I had written permission. Momma had me covered with an open ended notice. I got out at 1:00 while everyone else had to suffer until 3:30. This was back when public high-schools still had rifle teams and ranges.

 

[acrepairmiami]

Wired has proprietary firmware. A non wired display will read communication error