Wireless keyfob

AFAICT from the stuff on the amazon link, you would use this between battery positive and the KSI keyswitch ignition wire, so that when engaged it powers on the controller. I dont' see a KSI wire on yours (sometimes called door lock or similar as well).

But if the antitheft jumper on yours has to be connected to make the system run, then you simply cut the jumper loop and connect the two relay cotnact (probably the DC output) pins to the two resulting wires.

Presumably the DC input wires of the relay are for powering it from your system; you'd have to check it's documentation about that.
 
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Anti-theft signal. [Red / Purple] I would guess it's intended to go to a key switch. Closed it runs. Open no go.

What is model number of controller? Where did it come from? Might be able to find documentation or diagrams.
 
If I am not mistaken, it does also have anti theft door lock connection as well.

I will try to get a picture of it that is clear enough.

My initial thought was to take the hot side of the anti theft power jumper and connect it to the positive input. Ground the negative input. Connect the other side of the jumper to the positive output and leave the negative output empty, or ground it as well if need be.

Since I have a master battery switch, I really like this remote switch because it defaults to the off position when power is reconnected to it. I can feel safe that if anyone flips on the master switch, the controller is still off.
 

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simonen said:
If I am not mistaken, it does also have anti theft door lock connection as well.
The controller? Or the remote?


My initial thought was to take the hot side of the anti theft power jumper and connect it to the positive input. Ground the negative input. Connect the other side of the jumper to the positive output and leave the negative output empty, or ground it as well if need be.

Does the jumper normally require wiring it like that to operate? If not, you don't want to wire it like that thru any relay system either. You *must* wire it the way it requires itself to be wired if you want it to operate, and not damage the controller or anything else.

Remember that the relay requires a power source to operate, that does not come from the wires it is switching. Those should be separate.

You will have to check the documentation for the actual unit you get, but it appears that the "input" screws are for battery power to run the unit. That comes from your bike's battery, and needs to be within the voltage range of the unit you get (there are several different ones listed on that page, so you must get one that will work with your battery).

The "output" screws appear to be the relay contacts, which are used only to connect a pair of wires on the controller to enable or disable the controller.

Keep in mind that the above is an assumption based on the pictures posted on that page, because it is not completley clear how it works. You would probably have to actually have it in your hands to verify how it operates, before wiring anything to your controller, to prevent damage to anything.

Another possible way it could work is that it may take your battery power in on the input screws, and then simply output the same thing to the output wires when it is activated. If this is the case, you do not want to connect your antitheft wires to it *at all*, because it is likely those are 5v type lines, and you could destroy your controller by connecting them to battery power.


So...first you must verify how it operates.


If it operates the second way, then you would not need to connect the "-" wire on the "output" at all, and only connect the KSI wire (if there is one) to the "+" wire on the "output" screw. Then the battery + and - to the equivalent screws on the "input". This way the relay connects the KSI whenever the unit is activated, enableing the ocntroller then, but leaving it disabled until you do that.





Some logic on testing and deducing what exactly you need to do, no guesswork required:

It is VERY obvious from the picture you already posted that the antitheft jumper connects two wires, and that's all it does.

That means there are two, and only two, possible modes of operation. One, is that having the jumper in place disables the controller. Two, is that having the jumper in place enables the controller.

So you just need to know which one is the right mode of operation for this specific unit. This is very easy to test, by simply powering on the system, then testing with the trhottle or PAS, whichever you have. If it operates with the jumper in place, then the second mode is how it works.

If that is true, then in order to disable the controller, you remove the jumper, or cut the wire.

Thus, if the relay in the remote is Normally Open, as is normal for this type of thing, meaning when not activated by the remote it is "off", then you simply connect one of the relay contacts (doesn't matter which one; relay contacts are not polarized) to one side of the jumper (after cutting the jumper wire), and the other relay contact to the other side of the jumper. When the remote is activated, it connects the two wires, and turns on the controller.


If the jumper disables the controller when it is in place, then you need a different kind of relay called Normally Closed, which I don't think any of the ones listed on that link are. This type would disconnect the jumper wires when activated, instead.




If you have a KSI wire (often orange) that must be connected to battery positive wire (often red and thicker) to enable the controller, then instead of the antitheft jumper you could instead use the remote relay to connect these.
 
Thanks for the lengthy response Amber, and to everyone else.

I agree that I will need to have it in my hands before doing anything, and determine if it is routing the power from the input to output or simply switching the output side. After reading some of the Q&A on Amazon, it looks like the power going in is the same as going out, so it is not simply witching the output side. But I need to confirm myself

The jumper you are referencing does need to be connected for the controller to operate.
 
According to the picture I posted. It's "routing the power from the input to output"

To get that Amazon Wireless key fob to do what you want. Think you would have to experiment with the relay. Might turn into a autopsy?

I would look around and find a key fob and receiver that has terminals on a relay that open and close. Look at this PDF data sheet.
View attachment 1593775399DS-HORNETPRO-3a.pdf
 
marty said:
According to the picture I posted. It's "routing the power from the input to output"

To get that Amazon Wireless key fob to do what you want. Think you would have to experiment with the relay. Might turn into a autopsy?

I would look around and find a key fob and receiver that has terminals on a relay that open and close. Look at this PDF data sheet.
1593775399DS-HORNETPRO-3a.pdf

Thanks Marty, I think you are absolutely correct from what I have been reading in the Q&A. I will check out your alternative suggestions while I wait for this thing to arrive. I will also get the voltage coming of that jumper.
 
I just got the voltage off that jumper, and it is only 8mV...must be just a signal, so that idea using the jumper is a bust, at least with this switch.
 
Wondering how many volts in the wires labeled, lamp line [Black / Yellow] If it's 12VDC? There's lots more to choose from in the world of automotive 12VDC key fobs.

Also would be a good idea to also have a key switch or a jumper connector on your key chain so there is another way to get scooter going if something goes wrong with wireless stuff. Like a dead battery in the key fob.
 
Ya, and from my investigation, it looks like all leads coming out of the controller are off when the LCD is powered down, and that won’t power up when the jumper is disconnected.

I switched gears and decided to add a small step down voltage regulator to the main battery switch leads going to the controller. Then add a actual relay switch to the jumper activated by an rfid proximity key control.
 
simonen said:
Ya, and from my investigation, it looks like all leads coming out of the controller are off when the LCD is powered down, and that won’t power up when the jumper is disconnected.

Then that gives two possible methods for disabling the unit.

One of them will work with the unit you original linked to. This would use the KSI line from the controller to the LCD, and the Bat+, as described in one of my last posts above. To use the KSI line from the controller to the LCD, you'd cut it before the LCD connector, and instead connect it to the relay "output +". This means the LCD will only turn on *itself*, and not the contorller---the remote relay will do that part. To find which wire this is in the LCD/controller connector, put the voltmeter black lead on the ground wire, (any ground, even battery negative), with the LCD connected to the controller, but powered off, and set the voltmeter to 200vdc. THen use the red lead to measure each wire in the LCD/controller connector, and write the results down per wire. Then power on the LCD, and remeasure. The wire that changes from 0V to battery voltage is the KSI wire.


The second would be to use the NO type of remote relay described in one of my posts to connect the two wires the jumper shorts, when activating the relay. (but won't work ith the one you linked)
 
Yes, you are exactly right since the one I was originally looking at was not a relay, just more of a passthrough switch.

I think I prefer your second approach better, and that is where I am headed with this. The goal is to make it as completely inoperable as possible without the key fob. If someone wants to flip the battery switch on and off, it is no big deal since the LCD/throttle would not power up without the fob.
 
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