Worth it to get a “premium” FS bike for ebike build?

Haha Not sure where I fit in.. Always on a budget here unless I win big somehow.. My second elec build - the Rincon is ok but with a few back surgeries and reactive arthritis wth that is idk.. I built the FSR and went a little crazy with the amps and small rear wheel for torque. So I am looking for plush and a little milder. A few miles on Ks gravel / dirt back roads do me in right now..
 
So you want better, this places you in the sport category. Being on a budget, does mean yo have to find quality components on the used market, and learn to rebuild high end bicycle components. I mean, a top of the line brake can cost little, even when it is worth 500$ new. You just need to replace O-rings and/or small parts to make it work as new. For a sport rider, scratches and scuffs on a good fork doen't matter, if it can be rebuilt in one hour to enjoy the ride of a pro suspension.

There are some who will be happy to have found a 100$ brand new fork, and others who will be happy to have found a 300$ used fork that was worth 2000$ before all the scratches.
 
Let me try to simplify the thread/question as much as possible...

If I'm going 25 mph and run over a bumpy patch of uneven pavement while my ass is on the seat, how much smoother and more comfortable will it feel on a "nice" FS bike vs a "cheap" FS bike? :)
 
At that speed, the model of FS bike frame itself will not do any difference. The suspension fork and shock will, so will the tires. Most of all, it is the tuning of those that will make it ride fine. Rim width, tire model and PSI, shock rebound control, fork low speed gate.
 
jsmay311 said:
Let me try to simplify the thread/question as much as possible...

If I'm going 25 mph and run over a bumpy patch of uneven pavement while my ass is on the seat, how much smoother and more comfortable will it feel on a "nice" FS bike vs a "cheap" FS bike? :)

it will be the same with a thudbuster!
 
OK, here is a review of a really nice build by Luna Cycles:

https://electricbike-blog.com/2017/03/26/bunny-hop-like-its-easter-the-lunacycle-giant-anthem-2-bbshd-reviewed/

A "nice" bike is going to be a bit different for trail riding vs cruising around paved streets...
 
chas58 said:
jsmay311 said:
Let me try to simplify the thread/question as much as possible...

If I'm going 25 mph and run over a bumpy patch of uneven pavement while my ass is on the seat, how much smoother and more comfortable will it feel on a "nice" FS bike vs a "cheap" FS bike? :)

it will be the same with a thudbuster!
Not at all. Even the very best suspension seatpost, is very far from an average combination of shock and fork.
 
I align very much with madrhino in philosophy, riding style, and some of the builds in my quiver.

After building and riding all kinds of ebikes over the years from my initial dirt cheap entries into tinkering and getting my toes wet to high powered builds on pricey frames I am confident there is a happy medium especially for the riding style and conditions you are entertaining. I am currently really enjoying the EEB frame with quality Marzocchi shocks front and rear. It is has turned out to be a great compromise for a number of reasons. Mainly that I have no problems throwing it in the back of my truck or worrying so much about it getting stolen when I leave it somewhere. It is easily replaceable and doesn't cost as much as insurable toys like motorcycles. It handles surprisingly well when you use quality components, tires, and especially suspension... you don't see it a happen a lot on here because most people just want speed and don't care as much about control and they are just ordering them from Chinese suppliers with lowend parts already supplied.
 
What is an EEB frame?

Ah nevermind, found it. My initial search was ES, but a internet search revealed it. Maybe the glossary of terms thread would have the acronym in it.

EEB - Enduro Electric Bike

I love the looks of an EEB frame, then going with a DIY project, say dual motor MXUS 5000W, Adaptto Controller with all its gadgets. The thing thats the deal breaker for me is it looks too much like a motorcycle and not much like a bicycle. Thats a big thing when riding in city parks and on pathways which is what I do. For city riding on city streets, at reasonable speeds the EEB might suit, still cant be going too fast because of the fact of its looks.
 
That's why you need more than one bike. Ride the right one for the ride!
 
ecycler said:
That's why you need more than one bike. Ride the right one for the ride!

This is true 8) Not sure I can do too much with my old FSR. Pretty sure it is from the 90s It is a stiff frame and it has a Rockshox Judy and a really short shock. I can change the fork. Not sure I can do much about the rear? Bigger tire. It is one of YPedals wheels. It would take a 3 inch tire and the frame too I think..
Would it be possible to mod this frame for better rear shock?
aleftFSR4-11.jpg
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MadRhino said:
they are crazy to spend a lot of money to build a bike.

if you want speed on ebike you need quality components , example, NO cheap single wall China brand rims, but brand name rims, just one example.
 
Yep. I just can't understand why someone would want to ride 60 mph, or hit mountain obstacles on a wallbike.
But, many ES members are building such thing. Yet, I doubt they really ride them often at that speed. Those that I have seen here who have built fast bikes with crap, are riding them slow anyway. When we pass them, they are not tempted at all to try riding with us. :wink:
 
So true, I never understood those speeds on a bicycle meant for slow foot power speeds.
If anything buy a downhill bike for residential speeds 50kph (30mph) anything faster is crazy.
I will pass on any crappy department store bicycle, and get an all steel older brand name bike for speeds that are slower then mentioned.
 
I am not going for fast, I want comfort. I got my rim laced for the front. It is a Weineman double wall 24 " 90 dollars for that and spokes and disc hub laced.. I think I found my new favorite bike shop. :D But he can't cut and thread spokes :x
 
The amount of kinetic energy that is directly transmitted from the rear tire to your tailbone is what is going to affect your comfort level the most. The three things that will make the biggest difference for your particular situation:

1. Seat
2. Tires
3. Rear shock

Nice front shocks are going to give you better control especially at speed over more extreme conditions, but they don't really change the comfort unless you are hucking the bike - which you are not.

This is my favorite rear shock to date:
https://www.marzocchi.com/support/shocks/2015/2015-roco-air-rc.aspx?idC=62354&idM=20563-1605-1505&idMy=20302&idP=20545-744&m=a

Between adjusting the two air pressures, rebound, etc. you are can really dial in a remarkably plush ride even with a heavy hub motor and MC tire.
 
markz said:
Whats the cost on that Marzooooochi?
At this time of the year you can find a new old stock 2015 Roco Air World Cup for 150$. Yet I suggest that you buy the spring version if you find one at a good price. Air shocks do work good but they are PITA to rebuild, while the spring loaded Roco is a shock that you will ride a long time without maintenance. That would be the "Marzocchi Roco Coil RC World Cup", probably 200$ now. Titanium spring can be found used for this shock, another 50$ if you care a lot about weight.

Deals are good on Marzocchi shocks, because the manufacturer is closed since 2015 and many new items are still on the market. The Marzocchi brand had been sold to Fox and not made in Italy anymore. The equivalent of the Roco WC in other brands is 2 or 3 times more expansive.
 
Well, find one used for 100$. There are many high end shocks that are perfect for the job, and coil shocks are very long lasting. I have some that are 10 yrs old and still perfect.
 
For the geometry gurus do you think I could have this bike rear modded either the alum link or the mounting tab on the frame or both for a better / longer shock?
 

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torker said:
For the geometry gurus do you think I could have this bike rear modded either the alum link or the mounting tab on the frame or both for a better / longer shock?
Easy. Since you have a smaller wheel. There is a lot of room for any kind of mod.
 
MadRhino said:
torker said:
For the geometry gurus do you think I could have this bike rear modded either the alum link or the mounting tab on the frame or both for a better / longer shock?
Easy. Since you have a smaller wheel. There is a lot of room for any kind of mod.


I have always been a K.I.S.S. guy. I was cleaning it after about a 3 yr nap (still filthy in the pic) and got the front wheel mounted. I noticed I could go inside the frame at least 3/4 of an inch with the shock. Drill another mounting hole. Pretty sure this is the first couple yrs these came out 97' Shock is pretty short 6-1/4 " Should be easier to find a 7" shock.
 
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