Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Ypedal said:
Bad part is that i have to decide on a method of making this clear the frame, options include angle grinder to the outer edge of the nylock nuts, or replace nylocks with regualr nuts ground down part way .. either way mosquito's were out in full force and i had to abandon for the night so more tomorrow..
Y,

Can't you get proper chainring bolts long enough?

[Just noticed that I've just gone over 3000 posts!]
 
Ypedal said:
2 things from this, one good, one bad, good part is that the larger outer chainring now lines up with the rear ENO once the cranks are bolted on and pulled onto the square BB axle, leaving me the inside chainring for the motor !!!

Bad part is that i have to decide on a method of making this clear the frame, options include angle grinder to the outer edge of the nylock nuts, or replace nylocks with regualr nuts ground down part way .. either way mosquito's were out in full force and i had to abandon for the night so more tomorrow..

Kitchen floor !! thank god i'm single.. :lol: .. i'm about at that stage where i drop everything and clean for 3 days, the house has become a .. well.. not sure what word to use here.. .. dis-orderly ?.. :eek:

Yup I know about the kitchen workplace. Best lighting and easiest to clean floor is there. You can use some half nuts then you won't have to grind. there is a pretty wide selection of fasteners at many hardware stores so expect if you look around you will find something that will werq. Some pretty large stuff with rounded screw heads in several flavors like Allen, Phillips, flathead ect available. You could put them through with the head on the other side.
 
Hi Y,

yes can't see much of an issue with the bolts, you just need to swap them out for something more suitable, those ones your using look really solid but i dont think you need them THAT strong, maybe swap out for some countersunks even?


D
 
Y,

I lace wheels and do all wiring in my living room. My wife tolerates it. The secret is to marry the right person and ALWAYS leave the room cleaner than you found it! :D

I second the grinder. Just grind those nylocs down. Piece of cake.

Matt
 
Nah. Don't grind the your nuts off. :shock:

Try putting the heads on the inside instead. They might have a lower profile. If not, keep them that way around but grind the heads down.

Adrian
 
Ok.. some good news !!!! IT"S ALIVE !!!!!!

Thanks for all the suggestions ! greatly apreciated ! keep'em coming ..! 8)

I took the advice of flipping the bolts around and it clears, and " just ".. but it fits ! I was avoiding the nylocks on the outside for asthetic reasons but i managed to grind and file them good enough to pass the YQC.

Put on the half link chain, thank god i ordered 2 of them, one was not long enough, and what's left of the 2nd chain will work but none to waste !..

So, i was going to pull a Methods and go for a test ride without brakes, but damit.. i just got some new nike's and don't want to burn them so soon.. took 2 minutes to cable up the front brake.. :wink:

Test ride report : .. FREAKIN AWSOME !!! i love this NuVinci thing ! even with the 20" rear wheel, big ENO and 48t chainring, high range is right around 20mph at pedaling speeds ! and low is Really LOWWWW... i was crawling thru thick grass effortlessly.. you can shift up to go faster under load but you can't shift down while pedaling hard, the nuvinci locks up, just pause pedaling for a second and twist then back on the pedals. This actually works out good for me as i can gun the throttle and once up to speed ( i suspect a very few short seconds ) keep it pinned and roll up the gear ratio with the left hand..

Next step, motor mount ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
OK, how do you expect me to drool on my keyboard if there is no eye candy? Sounds like your first ride was better than mine but I can get more therapy to even things out. ;^) Glad you have it on the road. I have one of those frames and was wondering what I should do with it for my next build. Looks like you might have an idea or two. Build number two for me is near complete and looks like it will turn out very well.
 
That's great to hear the NuVinci is working well. How is the motor and controller doing? Any heat issues at all? What do you have the timing and PWM settings at? Also, I forgot, what are you using for a pack?

Glad to see another one on the road. :)
 
as above, great news Y.
now you know what im going to ask now don't you?
pics/vids? cme on man, phone in sick and get that bike on show!!!!


D
 
There will plenty of that shortly !! i promise !

I wanted to complete the bike aspect before going too deep into the motor mounting, had to make sure the thing would work as a bicycle before becoming an ebike !lol..

For the rest of the season, the battery pack will be PSI cells, over winter i plan to build up a LiPo pack...

Motor and controller are this weekends projects, i took the belt pulley off the motor shaft to hunt down a set screw i need, and this makes bench testing the motor and controller alot easier ( less spinning meat grinder type action going on when the drive is loose on the bench.. ) I read the HV manual, and i need to hook it up to the CC software, following gary and D's settings i expect this to be fairly easy. if it's all go then i should be golden.

Pedals are way close to the ground, i already scrapped up one pedal pretty good.. i will need shorter cranks.. ( problematic on the IPS cranks, but i'll figure it out in due time ) ..

2nd issue is alot of slop in the NuVinci freewheel collar, it really clacks hard if you let the chain go loose and hit the pedals hard again, going to have to deal with that somehow.. ( emailing fallbrook now )..
 
Sounds good. If not already done, I'd grind a flat spot, or drill a "dimple" on the motor shaft, and use some blue loctite.

When you get a chance to do some accelration tests, I'd be interested to see what kind of voltage drop you get with the PSI cells. They should do quite well with this setup. Are you using 15 cells?

-- Gary
 
( ok.. we were typing at the same time lol.. )
regarding batteries.... i know i've read that 15 lfp cells are max on these controllers.. anything i should be aware of before i power this baby up for the 1st time ?

I got Fechter's throttle box, a half grip twists throttle, the HV programmer, and will be diving into all that shortly...

edit : the motor shaft already has a flat ground into it ( thanks matt !! ) only realized this yesterday when i removed the pulley, it has threads for 2 set screws and i plan to use both of them.. :wink:
 
Ypedal said:
( ok.. we were typing at the same time lol.. )
regarding batteries.... i know i've read that 15 lfp cells are max on these controllers.. anything i should be aware of before i power this baby up for the 1st time ?

Nope, 15 cells should work fine, even right off the charger.

Ypedal said:
I got Fechter's throttle box, a half grip twists throttle, the HV programmer, and will be diving into all that shortly...

edit : the motor shaft already has a flat ground into it ( thanks matt !! ) only realized this yesterday when i removed the pulley, it has threads for 2 set screws and i plan to use both of them.. :wink:

Sounds good, and I should have known Matt would have taken care of the flats. :)
 
Hi Y,
Ypedal said:
I wanted to complete the bike aspect before going too deep into the motor mounting...

Pedals are way close to the ground, i already scrapped up one pedal pretty good.. i will need shorter cranks.. ( problematic on the IPS cranks, but i'll figure it out in due time ) ..

I thought your reason for going with the 20" wheel was to make space to mount the motor on the brake tabs. If you are going with a down-tube mount you might want to go with 24" or 26" wheels.

That would solve your crank problems and also give you a smoother ride. D is using 24" or 26" and he has one less stage of reduction so you shouldn't have any trouble getting sufficient reduction with a 26" rim (particularly since you currently own more sprockets and White FW's than most bike stores :) ).
 
Mitch, the 20" wheel was the original plan for multiple reasons, lowers the gearing, lowers the seat height and makes the bike shorter ( so i can fit it in the elevator at work ! ) and for the space i get in front of the wheel by not using a 26".. I did however, get a 24" rim with 32 holes just in case ( as well as a 26" ) so it's always an option.. lol..

Nothing about this project is written in stone, it's one step at a time and the plan keeps changing as the situation requires. This is my 1st RC buid ( of many more in the future i'm sure ) .. and a learning process.. now that i have the chain mounted to thear wheel, using the outside chainring, i think i can mount the motor in front of the rear tire again ( this was impossible if i had to drive the outside chainring as the inner would have been in the way .. )

I finally made the time today to wire this baby up !

Soldered the HV onto the motor leads, i will do a better connection later..
 
Using the info on ebikes.ca :
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/diagrams/Rectangular-3-Pin-Connector.gif

And Fechter's thread in the technical archive:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9940

Matched up the colors and soldered on the provided connector for the throttle box ! ( Thanks Richard !! excellent work on that unit ! )
 

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Wired it all up, Installed 45amp andersons on both sides of the throttle box , grabbed an 8 cell ( 24v ) pack, crossed my fingers and prayed to the smoke genie gods requesting that they stay far away..

Beep, beep, beep, .. blink blink.. no smoke. good.. held on to the motor ( with belt removed ) not knowing what to expect as far as startup torque ( hard lesson learned early on in my ebike history testing a hub motor with axle not secured.. damn that sucked.. ) slowly cracked the throttle and brrrrrrrrrrr..... IT"S ALIVE !!!!!!!! 8)
 

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Ypedal said:
OK.. Got the casle link software installed and running, turned off the braking feature and updates to latest firmware. Set timing to 12 khz, all good. ! 8)

You need to set the PWM to 16kHz, not 12, which will cause a "chattering" at low speeds. The timing needs to be set to "Normal", which is the default.

-- Gary
 
Hey Y,

Exciting times :mrgreen:
the 20's caused me the crank issues too, i shortened my crank arms and re-tapped the pedal threads - 9/16 if i remember correctly, its not that difficult but once you've done it theres no going back? mine were square taper cheapie arms so no bigster but if your doing that to your IPS set i might think twice.if i were you and it didn't affect your mounting decisions i would go with Mitch's suggestion and go to a 24 rear, it really makes no concernable difference in terms of torque etc than having a 20 - even with my hub i didn't notice any difference whatsoever between the wheel sizes.
BTW where the hell did you find a 12khz setting for the pwm? :lol: im running 13khz but as Gary sais this does give start up chatter if you dont at least pedal a wee bit at start up however it made my esc run a damn sight cooler than 26khz?
i set my timing from low to normal yesterday but i didn't notice anything different tbh.
Best of luck!!!


Cheers,

D
 
Cool ! .. thx , I downloaded the software direct from the castle site, updated in august aparently, and one thing i found is running the motor on the bench, no load, 1 amp full throttle, all good and cool... if i run very low rpm like 1/4 throttle for 30 seconds or so the motor temps rise quickly, controller stays cool.. at 24v.

I ordered 200$ worth of cable form powerwerx last week, some high strand 10g etc to wire things up properly, are there limits to wire lenght i should respect between the throttle box and the controller ? or is shorter the better type thing rule of thumb ?

Matt is prepping my freewheel parts to run crank side and should be on the way shortly, i may spin on the southpaw freewheel i have on hand for the time being if i get this all mounted and ready to test before my parcel arrives lol.. ( or get to work on my chopper project that has stalled lately.. :lol: )
 
mmmmmm, partial throttle does seem to make the motor warm but i dont think you'll have any issues mate, i partial throttled quite a bit the other day but the heat didn't top 70c and i was asking for partial power quite a lot, i have to sometimes as my drives are tied together, need to adress that!!
it's weird how then you open right up and watch the motor temp drop :?
im really enjoying my electric motorcycle but my pack doesn't last long with no assist :lol:
my cabling from my esc to Richards box is minimal - from esc to motor is probably 10-12 inches, no issues so far? hehehehe the temptataion to set up anyhow is becoming unbearable? looking forward to seeing it go - you'll sure be pleased :wink:

D
 
some small progress, but progress none the less, darn life duties keep getting in the way and all that.. grrr.. if only i could dedicate a full day to the project i'd be done.. but unfortunately i do as much as possible with the time i can allow ! :wink:

A few days ago i went to the garage to determine the distance requried between the motor drive freewheel and foot portion and realized this problem :
 

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