e-beach
10 MW
Sidotian said:
The red button needs to be out for that throttle to function. The LED's have no relation to the red button. For the purpose of getting your bike going, leave the red button out.
Also, what kind of DMM do you have?
Yescom 36v 500w hub kit with 12s lipo no throttle response
- Thread starter Sidotian
- Start date
The red button needs to be out for that throttle to function. The LED's have no relation to the red button. For the purpose of getting your bike going, leave the red button out.
Also, what kind of DMM do you have?
Sidotian
10 W
With the red button out I get no power anywhere on the bike so I jumped the positive red wire from head light out to main battery power positive and got the controller to power up with out the button in and still nothing I'm not sure what dmm
is
is
Sidotian
10 W
I opened up the throttle just out of curiosity and the red button is in fact just a power button the three wires red black and green are the actual sensor wires when I have the switch by passed or not ,the button in or out the throttle sensor(green) wire still reads 0- to just under 5v which means the throttle is talking to the controller but the controller just isn't listening I guess... multi meter? A cheep harbor freight one and I have the balance lead meter too
dogman dan
1 PW
What makes you so positive its not the wires to the motor disconnected?
Sidotian
10 W
That's the first thing I checked is all the connectors the new tracking says the controller will be here Thursday...
e-beach
10 MW
The red button isn't really a power button. It is a kill-switch which could come in handy in case of a short or mechanical failure that leaves suddenly WOT. Push the button and the bike stops.
And yes the red, white and blue wires are connected to the hall sensor in the throttle. The red and blue are the power wires and the white is the return.
Have you tried your system with the brown and yellow wire from the throttle disconnected?
And yes the red, white and blue wires are connected to the hall sensor in the throttle. The red and blue are the power wires and the white is the return.
Have you tried your system with the brown and yellow wire from the throttle disconnected?
Sidotian
10 W
Just to keep you all updated I got the new controller hooked up and all I gota say is wow it was worth the frustration 40mph on 12s
e-beach
10 MW
Sidotian said:
Glad your bike is up and running! But as a post-mortem....what did you do to blow up the original controller?
999zip999
100 TW
When testing all you need is a little throttle to see if it actually works if it's not working hold it Full Throttle is not going to help remember you're just testing and I would also be careful so the pedals don't spin backwards if you have the motor running backwards the peddels will spin and tear you up.
Where do you live ?
Where do you live ?
Sidotian
10 W
I'm located in western new york... The bike is working amazing I'm getting 40mph with about 50 mile range with 12s. 16ah. 40amp yuyang controller dumbed down to 19amp full throttle and settles down to around 5amp once top speed is reached 75 miles total on the bike already
Sidotian
10 W
As for the old controller I'm still not sure what the problem was I looked at the board with a magnifying glass tested everything possible , shoot even smelled it and I still can't figure it out :/ I bought a old motor on Craigslist 48v 1000w for 20$ and it didn't work with that motor too the old motor seems to be in great shape but the rode with a flat so its all scraped up I was thinking of putting one of those solid tubes on my current set up...
Sidotian
10 W
I have finally had time to mess with the old controller turns out it was the high voltage cut off I got it to work on fully charged 12s pack by feeding lower voltage into the ignition wires via old 9v battery's snapped together in series with negative side going to neg on main 12s battery and positive going to ignition wire ( I hope it's ok to connect like that seems to be fine)
e-beach
10 MW
Sidotian said:
I don't understand what you mean by "ignition wires"
Can you show us a picture?
There's only one ignition wire. You said "wires"? The ignition wire provides the power for the controller's CPU and all the sensors. I think it's something like 100 mA out of the 5v regulator, so at 48v you need about 10 mA. Bear that in mind if you want to run from a separate source. That's a good way to get around any HVC or LVC limitations if you wanted to, as long as you have a LCD/LED control panel oe separate ignition wire.Sidotian said:
Sidotian
10 W
I'm sorry I meant wire I unplugged the red button on the throttle and took the red wired labeled headlight and used that wired works perfectly
e-beach
10 MW
Ok, because e-bikes don't usually have any ignition unless the batteries are burning. 
Ignition is an ice term.
I am beginning to think that your red button (kill switch) might be suspect. I am not sure why plugging it into the headlight switch would make it work.
Ignition is an ice term.I am beginning to think that your red button (kill switch) might be suspect. I am not sure why plugging it into the headlight switch would make it work.
Similar threads
