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Yescomusa.com 500 & 1000 watt 48v rear kit review

So thats about a 200mm diameter motor judging by the pciture. When you have time, could you measure that to be sure. Either center of the spoke holes or the diameter to the outter flange.
I think the YESCOMUSA 1000 watt - 25 NM torque motor kits that come with controller for around $170 shipped, are 1 of the best deals to get started into the ebike realm. I do wish that YESCOMUSA would consider offering a upgraded kit that came with a 1500 watt rated motor , higher rated torque and a controller that could output 40-50 amps for around $ 220 shipped. I think that would be a good seller.
The ratings on the motor are actually quite meaningless most of the time.
It all depends on the width of the laminations and the amount of alum/steel for heat sink.
I think the 500W and the 1000W are the exact same motor, def the 750W is.
You are right, it is a great deal.
For me it was a toss up between yescomusa and hallomotor/conhismotor which does sell a listed 1500W motor. What does that really mean, I dont know. The Chinese love to fudge the numbers.
Yeah....the sellers are just playing into the scardy-cats trying to obey stupid laws.
......and I may be totally off on this and I may try to find the exact info on it out of Justins video, think it was on water ingress, or EBR's visit to Grin.....but.....Wattage ratings are meaningless, now I gotta find why.

Roughly starts at 11:15, gets juicy at 12:08 for a good minute or so until ~13:00, Justin says you need to specify an RPM, and goes on from there.

Summed up the last little bit
There is no single definition of wattage for a motor. Its dynamic variable based on how fast you are moving and rpm of the motor. There is no where that states oohhh this is the continuous power point.
You are totally wrong. The 500W and 1000W motors are not the same. I've bought and tested both. They don't even weigh the same, with the 1000W motor weighing more.
wesnewell said:
You are totally wrong. The 500W and 1000W motors are not the same. I've bought and tested both. They don't even weigh the same, with the 1000W motor weighing more.

:oops: I was wrong, thanks for correcting me. Is that the same for their 750W motor?
Couldn't say. Never bought a 750w motor.
Wesnewell and I both know the yescomusa kits on ebay are a great deal. Ive been running mine for 3 years, on a fat bike . It is rated 1000 watt motor, but I pump 2400 watts into much of the time, and it handles it. I did cut several 1 inch cooling holes into the side plates , which allows all the hot air that builds up inside to easily escape , further allowing more wattage to be pumped into the motor and upgraded to heavier phase wires.

My biggest complaint about these motors, is the lack of high torque, then again I am only running a 48 volt lifepo4 battery with them and a 12 FET LYEN controller = programmed at 60 amps. If I moved up to 60 -72 volts and 80 amps, I'm sure the torque would be much more impressive.
rumme said:
My biggest complaint about these motors, is the lack of high torque, then again I am only running a 48 volt lifepo4 battery with them and a 12 FET LYEN controller = programmed at 60 amps. If I moved up to 60 -72 volts and 80 amps, I'm sure the torque would be much more impressive.

Explains it very well. More torque = different, bigger motor.
Well, I just hit 6 years and ~22,000 miles on the 48V 1000W yescom motor
Wes, That is simply amazing. Due to your diligent and regular reporting, the decision to go with this motor was super. Not putting anywhere as many miles on it, working perfectly. Only issue is the electrical connection between motor and controller was a bit short due to the stays and location of controller. The modified connector is not so good but only me to blame. Mine does not see more than about 1800 watts which is plenty of power and speed.
Today was my last day of school until August 1st. This year I worked 180 days, drove my car 25 days, rode my 500w bike 7 or 8 days, and rode the 1000w bike about 148 times or so. My odometer on the 1000w bike reads 24462 total miles, so, 7462 mile for the year. The 500w bike got 350 miles commuting with the Mj1 pack.

For my last ride home, I wanted to duplicate my final ride from last year (34 miles). I have the same 2 year old motor, 4 year old controller, 5 year old cheap swap meet bike, and the same home made battery pack (15s, 12p samsung 22p w/no BMS). I did not track my ride but conditions were about the same. I did pump up my tires for this ride and charged up to 62.8

last charge of the year- topped off at 62.8.jpg

First stop at the gym for a swim

stop for a swim at the gym.jpg
Then along the same route.

start of skyline trail.jpg

Did not come across any hikers. Here is the bike:

on the trail 2.jpg
on the trail 4.jpg

Here I am
on the trail selfie.jpg

Stopping at Rose Hills.

View attachment 6

About 2 miles from home:

View attachment 13

After ariving at home and letting the pack rest for 10 minutes, this is the voltage:

53.1 volts after 34 miles.jpg

The battery pack is doing great, 20,000+ miles, 900 or so cycles and still in almost perfect balance. Here are some pictures. They look a lot like last years:

15s 12p samsung 22p pack after 2.5 years.jpg

View attachment 4

View attachment 3

cells 1-6.jpg

cells 7-11.jpg

I will report more on this battery later and my new 25r battery I will make this summer.

Needed to pick up my son at the youth center soon after I checked the bike battery, so I jumped in the car and it would not start. Noticed the battery had been stolen.

View attachment 11

Had to jump on the tandem bike (I usually pick-up my son and oldest daughter with this bike all summer).

picking up brendan at the youth center.jpg

Got home and managed to move to car (so I would not get a ticket) with a 4s HK lipo

brendan helping start the car.jpg

View attachment 8

I have many projects planned for the summer and will do an update of the 500w bike and the 5 year old Ping 48v 15ah battery.

500w motor/bike & battery collection update

I usually ride the 500w bike during the summer with the 8p,15s LG Mj1 pack (28Ah on paper). Mostly flat rides in town, about 100 miles a week or so. The pack is gets slightly out of balanced but since I only charge to 60 volts and keep most my rides under 20 miles, I only need to check the pack balance every other week. I did some manual balancing in May, and it still seems good. Cells are between 3.95 and 4.05. I did purchase a 15s BMS which I will install if needed. I have about 8k miles on this hub/bike. I ride very rough, at times (train tracks), and do some off roading.

500w bike 5 years.jpg
Bike on the old train track path in HB.

Also, broke a spoke earlier this summer (hit a large rock) so I purchased a wheel stand. If anyone has rebuilt one of these yescom hubs and have spoke/rim/nipple recommendations, please let me know.

bike wheel stand.jpg

Yesterday. I charged up the 5 year old 48v,15AH Ping battery over night and went for ride/range test this afternoon on the 500w bike. I did a similar route to last years ride. conditions were about the same but I layed off the throttle some the last 2 miles. I was very happy with 28 miles which close to 80% and could still get me to work. I have bottomed out this battery more than 100 times and used it to commute to work for 2 years, one year was on a 1000w hub. Here are some photos

charged ping.jpg

ping on 500w bike.jpg

5 year ping battery range test data.jpg

I have a family member interested in an ebike, so I plan to put this battery back into circulation.


I think my battery progression is similar to many on this form. Below are all my batteries:

current battery collection.jpg
l to r: Ping48v15ah, hobbyking, Dr.Bass pack (Makita/Sony), Samsung 22p, LG mj1

When I started commuting to work by ebike, choosing the right battery was a difficult decision. I would still recommend the 48v,15ah Ping for anyone with a long commute but there are lots of good choices. Also, my experience with Hobbyking Lipo packs has been excellent. These are light, versatile and good to extend range. I keep all my batteries in amo containers when not in use.

I assembled my first 18650 pack in 2013 and it is still in use. This weekend I charged the old 4p15s Makita (Sony cells from Dr. Bass) and did a 10 mile ride and had plenty of ah left. It weights about 5 pounds.

makita used tool pack battery.jpg

I start back to work next week and have a new 1000w hub motor which I will report on later. Also, assembling my 12p,15s 25r pack. Should be done soon.
When you ride the 500W motor, what do you max out at? Whats the total weight?
Same Q for the 1000 motor.

Go with Sapim double butted 13G-14G spokes with Sapim nipples.
If the holes are too big on the hub flange, I use specialty fastener store washers, doubled up just to be on the safe side. I found the washers I bought at the LBS werent that great for hub motors.
mcintyretj said:
Also, broke a spoke earlier this summer (hit a large rock) so I purchased a wheel stand. If anyone has rebuilt one of these yescom hubs and have spoke/rim/nipple recommendations, please let me know.
I relaced my 1000W motor into a Weinmann DH-39 rim using 12G SS spokes about 5 years ago and run 2.4" cyclops tires. If you plan on using the Champion rim it came with, get some good 12G SS spokes 160mm +/-2mm. The original spokes are not very good quality.
wesnewell and markz, thanks for the wheel building tips.

The 500w bike weighs 72 pounds but that is with: the lock, tools, extra tube, 1/2 full water bottle, first aide kit, 15 x 8 Mj1 battery, bathing suit/goggles/small towel. I keep this bike outside on my balcony year round. It cost $35 and still has all the original parts except tires, brake pads and seat. I weigh in at about 140 or so.

Today, the 1000w bike weighs 81 pounds. That is with all the same items: tools, lock, extra tube, 15 x 12 p22 battery, suit, first aide stuff, water... When commuting, I usually have lunch and a clean shirt in the back bag. I carry it up and down the stairs. Here is a picture:

lugging 1000w bike up the stairs.jpg

I start work on Monday and have made some changes to the 1000w bike. First, I had a bad wobble, at the end of the school year, even though the wheel was true. After cleaning the rim, I noticed several large cracks so I ordered the wheel stand. I also ordered and extra 1000w kit from ebay (the $155.00 ebay kit that wesnewell posted earlier) just incase I did not have time to build a new rim into the hub. The kit came without a cassette/sprocket but I had an extra one. It is similar to the yescomusa.com kit except the wires to the motor go in from the left/non cassette side.

new 155 dollar 1000w ebay kit.jpg

Last week I pulled out the new hub motor, added a rear cassette, and put it in the 1000w bike. I hooked it up the 4 year old yescom controller and went for a test ride and it seems to have the same speed as the yescom 1000w motor. I also got a new front wheel from the local bike store and new brake pads from amazon. I have new tires, straight wheels and am ready to start the school year.

1000w bike right side 8-5-2017.jpg

wires on left side.jpg

new brake pads.jpg

Just about everything is broken on my 2001 Hyundai. Last winter the hood flew off while driving on the freeway. The welds broke, so now it is held together with bungee cords and a strap. The lights go on an off while driving at night, and the check engine light is always on (so it will not pass smog). So, I decided to go without a car and donate it to charity when the registration expires in 5 days. My wife and daughter both have cars and I have a tandem bike If I need to pick-up one of my kids or go somewhere. Hopefully it does not rain much this year.

2001 hyundia.jpg

Here is a video of me picking up my son from school last year.

My oldest daughter has seizures (epilepsy) so I had to build her a special seat. Here is video of me goofing around this summer with my daughter:

I will report later on the wheel building and the 25R battery build.
First, the cheap, all black 1000w kit works ok for short trips, but after 25 miles with some hills, it became almost too hot to touch. After some research, it seems they are not as good as the original 1000w yescomusa kits. After a week of hard peddling (and a hot motor), I took this motor off and put the old motor/wobbly rim back on the bike but with no tuffy or slime so the wobble did not seem too bad. Here is the plan:

Got a good rim in a 1000w front kit that a co-worker, who buys kits at the swap meet and resells them. These front kit do not sell well so he gave it to me.

good rim from front 1000w motor.jpg

I will put this rim on my rear 1000w kit when I have time.

I like these rims and plan to get a pare if the first try goes well:

alex DX32 26 inch 36h rim.JPG
With a large 2.4 inch tire on a thin rim, the tire tends to roll to the inside of the turn and makes turning, while going fast, unsafe. I am hoping, with a wider rim, the tire will not roll as much. Wesnewell, how wide is the Weinmann DH-39 rim? They have been out of stock just about everywhere.


Last winter I got 4, 12V, 20AH lead acid batteries from Henry in Long Beach and used them in my class for electronic projects. I wanted to place a solar powered wifi repeater on the roof of my room, powered by a 12v battery, so my students could have internet access, but the district finally set-up our school with official wifi. On amazon or ebay, you can order kits for about $20 that have 70 watts of small solar panels that you have to assemble yourself. We make phone chargers but they tend to be easy to break. here are some samples:

phone charger project.jpg

solar phone charger project.jpg

solar panel charging bike light.jpg

So I was thinking about making a large solar panel, charging the 4, 12v batteries in parallel, then using a dc to dc converter to charge my bike battery from the lead acid pack. When I was shopping in Harbor Freight Tools, I saw this 100w solar kit for sale and picked it up. $149.99 on sale.

View attachment 10

You can put these in series and charge a 48v pack direct, or in parallel, using the charge controller to charge a 12v pack, then charge your bike battery with a cheap dc to dc converter. Here is my setup:

25w panels.jpg
Panels just on the ground, get about 8 hours of direct sunlight

View attachment 8
Highest setting on the charge controller is 14.4v, charging the 12v pack which takes almost 2 days:

View attachment 6

Cheap dc to dc converter set to 62.8v at 2.4 amps

dc to dc converter.jpg
I use the DC to DC converter straight from the battery. I can only solar charge 2 or 3 days a week using this method. If I solar charge (from the 12v pack) Monday, Wednesday and Friday, on Friday, the pack drops below 10v and my bike battery is usually less than 60v. So, Friday afternoon I have to direct charge the battery for a while, skipping the charge controller, getting the pack back to 10.5v before the charge controller will work. I know these lead acid batteries are at the end of their life cycle and I have 700w of old LiFePO 4 cells that might work better.

I have also charged my 15s battery with these panels in series. In the shade they put out 87v with no load"

solar panels in series 86v in the shade.jpg
In the sun they get to 107v with no load. If I start charging straight from the panels at 8:30am starting with my bike pack at 54 volts, by 1:00 it is at 57 volts. It would take to long to charge to 62 so I put it on my regular charger until I am ready to ride home. I use a big diode in line when charging in series.

diode in line on positive wire.jpg

To keep my battery cool I use an umbrella. This picture is at 8:00am, by 9:20 it starts getting direct sunlight.

parallel charging with umbrella.jpg

The current Yescom 1000w motor has about 17k mile and the 22p battery pack is at about 22k miles. I am also car-less so no ICE commuting yet this year. Hope it does not rain much!
The Weinmann DH39 is 32mm inside and 39mm outside. Same as The Alex DX32. I use this size rims on all my wheels with tires from 1.95" up to 3.0".
Thanks Wesnewell, I have a pair of Alex DX32 rims coming. I think I will start with the front wheel.

1000w update:

This school year I have 69 ebike commutes (3,500 miles) and zero by ICE vehicles. Hopefully it does not rain too much this winter. Here is the bike and the odometer last week.

1000w bike 10-30-17.jpg

11-16-17 total miles on 1000w bike.jpg

The current 1000w motor has about 19,000 miles, the controller has about 34,000 miles and the samsung 22P (12p,15s) pack has about 24,000 miles. The pack has only been bulked charged and never been balanced. It is still almost in perfect balance, only having 0.03 volts separating the highest cell from the lowest cell. Here is an old picture of the pack:

finally complete 12p 15s (1).jpg

I think this pack will last the year, but, it is getting closer to 80% capacity. I started working on a new samsung 25r pack. Do not plan to use a BMS if it stays in balance like the 22p pack.


A few weeks back, I got tired of the clicking and constantly having to tighten spokes caused by the cracked rim. So, I switched out a good rim (and spokes) from an unused 1000w front kit. Here is the sequence:

good rim from front kit.jpg

cracked rim with good rim.jpg

replacing spokes.jpg

half way replacing spokes.jpg

tensioning spokes.jpg

The wheel stand really helps. To get the tension even (correct), I use harmonics and testing the flex with my thumb/finger. I had a sore arm muscle and a thumb blister for a few days.


Also, a few weeks back, I woke up with no power. So I walked outside and saw this:


Luckily, I have plenty of battery power and a pair of 48volt converters. I used a 2500=50000w converter to run stuff in the kitchen:

ping 48v pack running coffee and micro.jpg

coffee microwave and ping.jpg

kitchen with cord on floor.jpg

mj1 pack running everything in kitchen.jpg

I have a 300w-600w converter to run the wifi, TV, and laptops. These outages usually happen a few times each year. This time it was for 21 hours but I was able to run the refrigerator and all the essentials. Many of my neighbors were throwing out the content of their refrigerators the next day. I have 2 adult children that have been diagnosed with autism so having power is very important. Especially for my son, who was recently hit by a car while standing on the sidewalk while on a class outing and was unable to sit up without assistance.

car that hit brendan 10-11-17.JPG

brendan at long beach memorial 10-11-17.jpg

He is doing fine and his broken leg and shoulder are healing nicely.

I will report on the 25r pack later.
You can charge your batteries directly w/ this solar boost controller as long as the battery bank Voltage is higher than the array Voltage;


In your case, maybe the panels would need to be configured 1S/1P (series/parallel) for input Voltage in the 24 to 30 Volt range.
1/2/2018 update:

December 22nd was the last day of school and my last commute on the 1000w bike. This semester I commuted 89 days by bike and none by ICE. We had no rain so I had no excuses not to ride. I ended the fall session with more than 4,500 miles. Not really motivated to buy a car yet, but once it starts to rain, might change my mind. Here is the bike on the last day and the odometer:

1000w bike on last day of semester 12-22-17.jpg

odometer miles 12-22-17.jpg

Totals: current 1000w motor= 21.5K miles, 22p battery= 25k+ miles, new rim= 1000 miles, controller= 36k+ miles


Finally assembled the Samsung 25r pack to replace the 22p pack (which I hope will last the year). This is a 12p, 15s pack but in a slightly different configuration. Here are some photos:

battery with design in background.jpg

working on series connections.jpg

25r battery left side.jpg

25r battery right side.jpg

25r pack on scale.jpg

3 year old riba spot welder.jpg

The Riba JP spot welder has been working great for the last 3 years! This pack has 180 cells and about 12 welds per cell which is more than 2000 welds. This welder never gets hot and works every time.

For this pack I am planning to use a bluetooth battery monitor the first few weeks, and then, every month or so if needed. Here are some photos:

neptune lite bluetooth battery monitor on 25r pack.jpg

first charge 25r pack.jpg

25r pack at 55.07v.jpg

25r pack data from neptune lite.jpg

Still need to make a case for the pack and do a test ride but I am very happy with how consistent these samsung cells were out of the box. Every cell was 3.52 or 3.53 after sitting around for almost a year. My new 25r pack is 30 Ah on paper and should last a few years.

Will report back on the range later.
Thanks; always inspired by the durability of your "YES" kits. Mine doesn't receive nearly the amount of use since it's for recreation and errands, but still performs perfectly after three years.
Finished the case for the new pack. Here is the sequence:

starting with the case.jpg

working on case top.jpg

My wife's yoga matt was already missing 6 inches so I used my daughter's matt for this project.

cutting off 3 inches from daughers yoga matt.jpg

adding foam.jpg

adding foam to top.jpg

I use contact cement to attach the foam.

new battery on bike.jpg
This pack fits on both bikes (1000w & 500w)

The case weights in at 1 pound, 9.55 ounces empty

empty battery case 1 pound 9 ounce.jpg

and 20 pounds with the battery

25r pack.jpg

The sheet of aluminum was purchased used 4 years back form this place:

asco metals for recycled aluminum.JPG
This was a sheet of 3 feet by 6 feet aluminum that was part of some type of rack. I recommend that you bring small shears and test that it can be cut easily (and bent) so you do not accidentally get high grade, hard to work stuff.

Also, I recommend these tools from Harbor Freight tools:

hand riviter set.JPG

18 inch break.JPG

I think it is easier to build a case around a battery then to make a battery fit in a case. Here are my current working batteries:

current batteries 22p mj1 and 25r.jpg

Did a test run with the 25r pack and noticed a lot less sag then the 22p pack.

Looks like rain in the forecast so I need to start thinking about a car.
Finally had to drive a car to work due to rain. Wanted to keep my ebike commute streak going, however, my streak staying upright seemed more important. Used my daughter's car and filled up her tank. Since I donated my car in August, I think this is the first time I have pulled into a gas station. Every other day have been on the bike.

first tank of the year.jpg

Closing in on 6k commuting this school year on the 1000w bike. Almost 22k for the hub motor. here it is last week

1000w bike 2-8-18.jpg

I have 1k with the new samsung 25r battery pack and noticed about 1/2 the sag, a much cooler battery, and a little more range than the 22p pack when it was new. Also, I really like the Neptune Lite. I just uploaded the app to my phone and plugged it in. Did not study the instructions but it comes with a temperature sensor and connector for an on-off switch. Since I do not believe everything I read, I unplugged it and checked each group a few times, and the device seems to be accurate. In addition, it does not drain any cell group. For now I have the top of the case bolted to the bottom and waterproofed with tape. Just leaving the Neptune lite in for now.

neptune lite on 25r pack.jpg

25r pack balance after 25 mile ride 0.02 difference.jpg

Also, after riding in the mud and getting sand in my freewheel, it started getting stuck and making noise, then finally locked-up and would not spin which mangled my derailer.

locked freewheel mangled derailer.jpg

The derailer was easy to straighten out but it is a pain to ride home (20 miles) and have to peddle the whole way. Also, to change a freewheel, even with the proper too, takes time, so I just popped on the extra 1000w hub for a day, then worked on the removing and replacing when I had time on the weekend.

I had an old freewheel remover but it did not fit over the wider, ebike axle, so, I just started filing the tool with an old file and after 25 minutes, it fit with lot of room to spare.

almost done filin.jpg

freewheel tool 2.jpg

Also, I had an old 500w motor laying around with only 3.5k miles with a perfectly good freewheel. Here is the sequence.

removing casset 2.jpg

cannibalizing freewheel casset from old 500w motor.jpg

500w casset on left broken locked 1000w on right.jpg

The 500w motor has come in handy. I have used the spokes, connectors, and now the 6 speed freewheel.

About 8 days after I put on the new 6 gear freewheel, my chain seemed to slip. After looking I noticed the the freewheel was freewheeling in both directions. It is way easier to fake peddle home 20 miles. The gears had all broken loose.

500w freewheel after 8 days.jpg

I like to ride hard, but I have come to the conclusion that these freewheels may not be the highest quality. Lucky I had one more motor with a freewheel that I could cannibalize. I pulled it out of my carport an stole the freewheel (this freewheel made lots of noise). I also ordered a 6 speed freewheel from ebay, and a 5 speed freewheel from amazon for $7 and $11. My local bike store did not carry any 6 speed freewheels.

2 new freewheels in front.jpg

new 5 gear-old 6 gear-new 6 gear.jpg

The yescomusa free wheel is in the center. I ended up putting on the 6 speed freewheel (on the right) which was about 1/16th of an inch wider but still fit without hitting the frame (which it clears by about 1/64 inch or less).

If anyone nearby needs a freewheel replaced, I have some experience and a tool. Feel free to contact me. Also, I have a family mountain bike with an aluminum frame. I plan to use the 5 speed freewheel, sand the spacers (1/4 inch on each side) and turn it into an ebike (with torque arms).

I have been solar charging at work and will report later.
Multi-speed freewheels are one place where it really pays to use Shimano rather than an off brand. For me, SunRace is a distant second choice and the others like DNP and Falcon are just not worth using.