Your recommendation for the perfect ebike - for me

Tidalforce has discontinued production of their bikes. All bikes sold will still be supported for the entire warranty period.
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What? :eek:

(BTW, you know Jamie from Mythbusters rides a TF bike.)
 
This guy seems to be very popular for brushed motor controllers. I found him reliable, good value and the product is good to . I think others would say the same.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/HuaQiang-North-Road
Kurt.
 
jules said:
Jamie is hot.
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He has a twin, you know.

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+1 on the e-crazyman stuff. Good business. :D
 
Link said:
jules said:
Jamie is hot.
Click to expand...

He has a twin, you know.

2327219016_ab371c43dd.jpg



+1 on the e-crazyman stuff. Good business. :D
Click to expand...

I can has myth busted? :D

PS I'm a big lolcat fan (sad to say I've made my own) and used your ceiling cat link on facebook for my religious views.

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I am talking to Ping about splitting the battery into two pods that would fit inside the two Currie battery cases, and I ordered the controller. I really appreciate everyone's help!
 
Hi, I'm new here and have an E-zip I bought a couple months ago...

I like the idea of increasign the power but have a few questions on doing so.

as for adding a motor for a dual motor set-up, would I get the same results from just using a 48v 900m motor instead of adding a second 24v 450w motor? the cost of a 48v 900w motor would be chaeper then the modifications to add a second motor...

does anyone have a good source to pick up a second battery that fits the Ezip's mounting breacket, it's funny that the design it to hold a second battery but I can't seem to find where to buy the second battery.

My thoughts to see how I like this as a 48v are to add a "stock" 24v battery and wire the bike so both batteries then equal the 48v, switch the motor to the 48v 900w or 1000w motor, and switch to a 48v controller

oh, and upgrade the breaks, because the stock ones are pretty chinsy LOL

any thoughts to these changes before I go forward?
 
Hey Swampjeep - so weird that you posted because I'm sitting here with an extra motor, upgraded controller and happen to have a spare Currie 24v battery and was just wondering the same thing about adding the second battery to see how she runs before I spend multimegabucks on LiFePO4. :D

I don't know the answer to your first question but am curious about the source of your 48v 900w motor? So far my upgrade has cost $150 without the LiFePO4 or the dinner I'm going to owe my buddy for welding a plate together to fit the bike. You should be able to buy a battery from Currie directly, or if your battery dies as mine did during the first 6 months, you could get a warranty replacement for the cost of shipping. Then simply replace the cells inside.
 
the motor I was looking at was from this page

http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES

near the bottom...

$122, 1000w motor

I figure the $ for the extra chain and motor, plus the TIME to modifiy the chain, the weling, making the bracket, repaining after it all,,, it would just be easier to buy a single larger motor.

any idea what curry will charge for the extra battery? do you have any info on orderign it, I looked but could not find it.
 
All the I-zip etc. bikes I've seen use a MY1018 style motor or similar. This motor has about a 7.2:1 gear reduction built in. Swampjeep, the motor I think you're looking at (a MY1020) lacks this gear reduction and will give really poor torque. The 600W GEARED Motor - 36 Volts (Style: MY1020Z3) a little farther up on the page would work better if you wanted to just use a bigger motor.

Jules: If you already have the batteries to do 48v and the controller I see no reason NOT to hook everything up and duct tape it on and go for a test ride.

Marty
 
I 2nd that on trying the lead battery's just to get a feel for how it will run as laying down the $ for lithium is a big investment. I think in the first 2 or 3 min of riding it will go about the same as with lithium but then things start to go down hill especially with stock 10ah lead packs they just start to loose there ability to provide the amps and your ride gets less and less exiting. the weight will be about 15kg 30lb so this will be noticeable.

I think you will have to wire it so that the selector switch on the back of the rack doesn't just select one battery or the other .You want both powered at the same time.

The 100ow motor would need a HUGE drive sprocket and you would be starting a hole new set-up from scratch.

Kurt.
 
http://www.izipusa.com/39-izip-rmb-battery-pack-bike-accessories.html - you can also get two 12v batteries and fashion a case for them to fit over there somehow or put them in a pannier.

The motor I bought from Currie was $103 with shipping. You would also need another controller regardless of which 48v motor(s) you use.

Kurt - you mentioned sound dampening things you tried - what worked? When you mentioned packing with grease, what exactly did you pack with grease? (Sorry, I just don't know that much about motors)
 
thanks for the replies, and Kurt even beat me to my next question which was going to be about using a larger drive sproket to do the gearing, I will look into that before I go buying my upgrade motor, maybe I will end up doing the dual motor too, or see how much inprovement the 600w motor gives.

thanks, so far I love the site, lots of good info here.
 
Jules, how's the bike coming along, I seem some progress in another thread, but thought I'd ask for an update here isstead of further hyjacking Kurt's thread.
 
Hey SJ - it's going slowly mainly due to my reluctance to harm the battery or myself. :wink: Soldering is going fine now that I have the right iron - I was not using plumbing solder, but the low-powered iron or my poor technique was the culprit. The other problem is trying to figure out how to put all this stuff together, what with me being an electronics idjit.

The Dean's connectors are $4 each here, so I bought one for the battery-to-bike connection. I figured I'd just use the cheap hardware store connectors for everything else that's going to stay on the bike.

I soldered the plug to the battery charging wires and melted the plug a bit. :cry: I think it will work though without falling apart - hope so anyway! I hope to finish it in the next couple of weeks but I'm not in a rush.
 
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2116
this is where I get my deans connectors, they are 5$ locally, or 6$ for 10 pairs internationally... ridiculous.
 
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