Zippy Flightmax / Turnigy lipo testing

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Holy cow!!! And I just bought a bunch of Turnigys 10 days ago that still haven't arrived. But I went ahead and placed two more orders of 7 packs each of these (gets the shipping under $10 per pack).

Even better which nobody has yet commented on is that these packs have 6 bonus points on them, ie $56-$6 = $50 per pack! Because I broke my order up into two batches for better shipping costs I was able to apply the points from the first batch to the second.

I expect that because these packs are now sold out and on back order that my orders will be filled with factory fresh cells. And it's a good time of year to order as the batteries should not spend much time at high temps in storage or in shipping.

The biggest downside of chasing Hobbycity's crazy changing promotions is that now I'm going to end up with packs of varying types and configurations which complicates their use.

If these promos keep coming I'm going to need a lot more of those 'Methods' 10 KW controllers. And my first one is still in USPS tracking limbo... Entered a truck in California 9 days ago and has never been heard from since.
 
Crap, I missed out on the 25Cs. :x It says the quantity available is -60. How many did you buy Methy? :mrgreen:

The price I get for the 25C Zippys is $60.39. The 20C Zippys are $57.09, and there are supposedly 130 available, but I think I'd rather pay a few dollars more and get the Turnigys, with the 10 gauge leads.

-- Gary
 
Hyena said:
Incidently, does anyone know how much money you have to sink at hobbycity / hobbyking to get bigger discounts ?
I'm listed as a gold member and have spend $1200 there.
Click to expand...

I spend arround 1600 and my status says Platinum Member..maybe you switch at 1500 ?
 
It is not the amount - it is the number of orders - that gets you to Platinum status
I was told once that it was 7 orders (then 10) but it is not necessarily automatic so don't think that you can place 7 orders for rubber-bands and get Platinum :mrgreen:

I am Platinum and I have spent $4,287.00 over 12 orders. I have 50 bonus points whatever that means.

I chose to go with the 20C zippy packs. I never order anything that is back-ordered.
Mine will be here next week :wink:

As far as the 12g vs 10g I am planning on using these 8 packs to make two 2S2P's
Rated that would be a 44V 10Ah pack good for 200A continuous
I draw 60A burst which is 30A burst on each 12G wire
Not ideal but totally acceptable to me.

One should note: These are ALUMINUM wires... not copper... so whatever rules of thumb you have in the back of your head do not apply. The conductivity of Aluminum is only 37.8 × 106 while copper is 59.6 × 106. I dont care if they use 5 million strands - aluminum is aluminum. So... my 12G packs are just that much more jank.

That said - I judge a wire by how hot it gets and you want to know how hot these wires get?
Not at all.

If you average out the duty cycle of a bike the average power is nothing... what... 50Wh/mile?
Do the math.
In a mile if you only burn 50Wh with a 50V pack that means your average current is 1A
With a 100V pack your average current is 1/2A

These 12awg wires will do just fine with a 1/2A average current :wink: :roll:

2-3%? Bah! We run our motors at like 60% efficiency under acceleration so I could give a crap less about a little loss in the cabling.


-methods

P.S. now that I made an argument for the 12g wire - I will state that I would always choose to run 10g over 12g if it is an option. :p
Bigger is better when it comes to wire.
 
SpeedEBikes said:
If these promos keep coming I'm going to need a lot more of those 'Methods' 10 KW controllers. And my first one is still in USPS tracking limbo... Entered a truck in California 9 days ago and has never been heard from since.
Click to expand...

I ship all my regular packages 2-3 USPS Priority Mail
Unfortunately your ordered a hub motor which bounced you out of the Priority bin to Parcel Post.
You are also on the East Coast... Parcel post is quoted as 7-9 *mailing* days "average" which means that you are about on schedule.
Priority could have been used but you would have had to pay over $70 for shipping

-methods
 
Considering that I am on the water in San Francisco.... You are on the East Coast from my perspective :)

Lets take this off line - We can check the ship date and calculate the transit days.

-methods

Edit: I just did the math - today is only the 9th shipping day so it is not late yet.
 
You know... I bought those 90 degree board mount Anderson connectors we were talking about......

I have also been thinking about going to a more modular system. Groups of 6S in either 1P, 2P, or 3P.
I wonder if I can hack one of those boards to work wit the Anderson board mount connectors?

I am still not sure about the modular yet since the beauty of Anderson is their ability to chain directly in series without a middle-man connector.
Looking at Matts trike and all those wires he had to solder up gave me shivers remembering the bad-old-days of Deans connectors.
I still have about a million Deans. I should probably sell them.

-methods
 
To match my six Flightmax 15C 5S1P packs and the one BM-6 unit I already have I grabbed the following:

Code: 
1x #HKB-Medic/10328 Hobby King Battery Medic System 6S variations = $23.95
2x #BM-6/8927 BM-6 Cell Voltage Monitor 2-6S Lipo (New Version) variations = $25.90
2x #JSTMF-5S-20/9738 JST-XH 5S Wire Extension 20cm (10pcs/bag) variations = $8.44

The plan is to parallel the balance taps for the 3S2P setup together and use a BM-6 on each for voltage monitoring and lvc per cell pair warning buzzing. The 6S battery medic can then be used on each pack to discharge each cell to the same voltage then charge up all together, balanced.

Comments?
 
Step in the right direction
Paralleling at the cell level is right on the mark
Using cell level monitoring is right on the mark
Balancing *before* you charge is wise - though it may not work like that for a few reasons.

Many balancers wont turn on until the cells are at a certain level - say 3.8V
Balance currents will be very low so expect it to take some time
The lower the cell voltages the slower the balance because the less the potential is across the shunt resistor

btw - just FYI to anyone else - never balance a pack that is near empty
When a pack is near empty that means that one cell has hit LVC while other cells are still holding some capacity
Every pack has slightly different capacity in each cell
If you balance them when they are empty they will be out of balance when they fill up.
Make sense?

Anyway - I like your plan - though what I would do is set the charger for a volt or two under HVC and just charge/balance at the same time
If you want to, once the pack is balanced, you can pump the last volt or two in.

-methods
 
methods said:
Step in the right direction
Paralleling at the cell level is right on the mark
Using cell level monitoring is right on the mark
Balancing *before* you charge is wise - though it may not work like that for a few reasons.

Many balancers wont turn on until the cells are at a certain level - say 3.8V
Balance currents will be very low so expect it to take some time
The lower the cell voltages the slower the balance because the less the potential is across the shunt resistor

btw - just FYI to anyone else - never balance a pack that is near empty
When a pack is near empty that means that one cell has hit LVC while other cells are still holding some capacity
Every pack has slightly different capacity in each cell
If you balance them when they are empty they will be out of balance when they fill up.
Make sense?

Anyway - I like your plan - though what I would do is set the charger for a volt or two under HVC and just charge/balance at the same time
If you want to, once the pack is balanced, you can pump the last volt or two in.

-methods
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback Methods. Here's what I'm thinking: So far my lowest cells are 3.831V so I can throw the Battery Medic on each pack and draw each cell down to say 3.82v, then I'll connect the whole 3S2P pack to my 10A charger set to 61.5v (4.1v/cell). It will charge up perfectly and then stay in balance forever. Right? :lol:

I don't see how I can charge and balance the whole 3S2P pack at the same time with just one 6S discharger...
 
One pitfall to look out for is that a 6S charger will put each set of 6S cells in balance with each other, but not with the other packs:

Example:

Pack 1 Balances to lowest cell of 3.9V
Pack 2 Balances to lowest cell of 3.8V
Pack 3 Balance to lowest cell of 4.0V

Now what?

Your only choice is to manually discharge the higher packs or to tie all the packs together in parallel.
You already know better than to tie all the packs together in parallel because it is too mistake prone (read back 10 pages) so your only choice will be to be patient.

You will find that charging to 4.1V per cell will allow you to get away with balancing only once every 10 rides or so. Just keep an audible monitor on the cells when charging.

Oh wait - cant you set a specific voltage on the battery medic for it to balance down to?
Yea - I remember Gary saying that.
SO - in that case you could get all three packs equal.

-methods
 
The Battery Medic not only lets you set the minimum voltage the balancing is enabled, but it can also be used in a balanced discharge mode, which lets you balance to a specific voltage, which can be set anywhere from 2.0v to 4.2V, in .1V increments. It also has about 300-400mA of balance current, which is not bad for a unit this size, with no fan. I'm actually working on a adding a shunt booster to these that will bump the shunt current to up over 1A. Here's a shot of two of these working with one 12s section of the pack I have on my Townie:

View attachment 12s LiPo Balancer with HVC Cutoff-05.jpg

Anyway, so far I can't find anything to not like about these units.

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
The Battery Medic not only lets you set the minimum voltage the balancing is enabled, but it can also be used in a balanced discharge mode, which lets you balance to a specific voltage, which can be set anywhere from 2.0v to 4.2V, in .1V increments. It also has about 300-400mA of balance current, which is not bad for a unit this size, with no fan. I'm actually working on a adding a shunt booster to these that will bump the shunt current to up over 1A. Here's a shot of two of these working with one 12s section of the pack I have on my Townie:


-- Gary
Click to expand...

Is this picture taken in charging mode ? or do the balancers draw 4.91A for discharging and balancing ?
 
MrKang said:
s this picture taken in charging mode ? or do the balancers draw 4.91A for discharging and balancing ?
Click to expand...

This was during a charge, and I happened to use a 5A/48V Vicor supply I had handy. The board that the two BMs and the WatsUp are attached to has the HVC logic and the active cutoff circuit, and then a matching 18-pin plug that connects to the pack. Anyway, after about 2 hours, the current was down to about 200mA and all the cells were right at 4.15V

I tried two Meanwell S-350-24 24V/15A supplies in series, but without a true CC mode to limit the current, it jumped up over 20A in a heartbeat, and was making some weird humming, so I shut it down. Tomorrow I'm going to try using the throttling logic from the main BMS control section, which should act to limit the current and the voltage.

-- Gary
 
As long as the packs aren't too far out of whack wouldn't you be better to balance on a full charge ?
I know with my turnigys with > 100 cycles on them they get pretty badly out of shape if you pull close to 100% from them - delta v is ofter around 0.5v with some cells hitting close to 3.0v while others are still 3.5ish. Connect em all in parallel and charge them up with a power supply and shortly after they're all pretty good with a max delta v of 0.04v
Especially considering you can set the balancing voltage on these battery medics I'd charge they up to a voltage that works out at 4.15v/cell, then balance at 4.1v then give them another top up charge and see how they look. After cooking a little hyperion balancer I'm not going to balance while charging any more, atleast not for now.
 
Also,
lookie what I just found HK/HC are now stocking. Niccce :)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10427&aff=81978

WST100.jpg


It's showing as $2.86/metre for me. Bargain
They show red and black but only have red listed at this stage. Meh, red makes your bike faster anyway :p
edit: They DO have the 100mm stuff in BLACK listed now. Wow, talk about spotting live updates as they happen 8)

Also 50mm in RED and BLACK
and they also now have stock of smaller 14mm heat shrink which is good for multiple 10ga wires
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10432&aff=81978
 
Hyena said:
As long as the packs aren't too far out of whack wouldn't you be better to balance on a full charge ?
I know with my turnigys with > 100 cycles on them they get pretty badly out of shape if you pull close to 100% from them - delta v is ofter around 0.5v with some cells hitting close to 3.0v while others are still 3.5ish. Connect em all in parallel and charge them up with a power supply and shortly after they're all pretty good with a max delta v of 0.04v
Especially considering you can set the balancing voltage on these battery medics I'd charge they up to a voltage that works out at 4.15v/cell, then balance at 4.1v then give them another top up charge and see how they look. After cooking a little hyperion balancer I'm not going to balance while charging any more, atleast not for now.
Click to expand...

When I started, I had one 6s3p group that had most cells at around 3.91-3.93V, and another 6s3p group with the cells at around 4.01V-4.04V. The first thing I did was set the BMs up to do a balance discharge to 3.90V. I then hooked up the supply, which was set to 49.8V, or 4.15V per cell, and I just had the BMs set to regular balance mode. When the current dropped down to under 200mA, all the cells, in both 6s3p groups were right at 4.15V.
 
I am puting through an order later today, i wanted some 4mm bullet connectors but one half is on back order so have opted for the 3.5mm for now along with some 10AWG wire these should suffice no? Gary has the connectors on the LVC boards already so the additional connectors im ordering will be for additional wiring in the battery enclosuer...SO ..8 Turnigy packs ran into 480 ish dollars plus 80 bucks freight ... invoice Have funds being deposited in my bank account will put through order later this afternoon and initiate payment via PayPal ...one step closer to full GanGSTA 8) status LoL... Hopefully this wont entail KFF as well :p

KiM
 
AJ.. which half is on backorder? Order these and you get both together, plenty in stock. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283 I just got mine today and its all there.
 
vanilla ice said:
AJ.. which half is on backorder? Order these and you get both together, plenty in stock. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283 I just got mine today and its all there.
Click to expand...


The non-reddy bit i bought the above though so all good cheers for that totally missed them...i put them through on a separate order as i have now put the initial order through ...extra 3 bucks post pft... :)

KiM
 
Hey guys!

My iCharger decided to have a fireworks display on my home workbench tonight (about 10 minutes ago) - wish I had video, it was kinda neat (now that the house didn't burn down and the lipos didn't blow up).

I was doing a relatively mild charge/discharge cycle on a 10S pack @ 5AH from 4.15v to 4 for 3 cycles, had just started it with cells at resting voltage of 3.94v-4.00v per cell across the pack... 1.5 minutes into the charge cycle I heard a noise, saw a flash of light within the iCharger and finally as I jumped up to pull the plug flames from the fan area. I got to the cord in time then yanked the pack as fast as I could - pack is fine, charger is at best a parts source (only a few mo old but I didn't keep box to return to HK) - I haven't opened it yet but whatever went, kept going until I pulled the mains.

The only difference from my normal "routine" was the use of a 24v meanwell turned down to 17.4v (it stayed stable, I just checked the logs) as opposed to my normal old 14v supply I was using. I have done about 10 successful charge cycles with the iCharger1010B+ and the meanwell so I think the darn thing just gave up the ghost (I must have put over 1000 cycles on it all together).

So - what should I get for a precision hobby style charger now? Suggestions are welcome.

-MIke

PS: No fire and no lipo damage, ps is fine too but... my god does it stink to high heaven in here... Guess until I can get some hobby chargers / balancers or some of gary's balancer boards (or a new iCharger) I'm doing it the meanwell / cellmon8 way (outside).
 
Kim you can probably change your order if you haven't payed yet. As Vanilla Ice said get the ones he linked, even if you just want the bullets themselves you can throw the rest away and still be better off. The packs all use 4mm connectors so for the sake of compatibility you probably dont want to go down to 3.5mm ones, especially when you're going to order more later.

Mike, I had a B6 charger go up in similar fashion for no apparent reason. You can see in this pic which part let go. It took a week for the smell to get out of my workshop! I came back an hour or so later too and I could smell it as I approached the door. I feared the worst, half expecting to see a crater under my bench half way to china :lol: Good to hear the lipos weren't damaged
 
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