BRAKES making them better ????

Well, you have Clarks. when I mentioned marginal quality brakes, I could have easily said Clarks. There is plenty wrong with them, not just the tiny pad size, but those pads are bad enough.

I don't have the demensions here, but here's a random google pic of someone holding the Avid BB7 pads for comparison.
374303563_3444f3ded8.jpg



I recomend BB7s above anything else. When I built my last bike, I wanted the best Bicycle brake possable at any price. I chose BB7 over other brands or even hydraulics for a number of reasons. They will haul it's 120lbs + my 180lbs down from over 50mph time and time again.


You can buy Avid BB7 used at reasonable prices. $58 for 2 sets with disk on Ebay when I searched. But you will need new brake levers. IIRC the Clarks use the wrong throw. They were built to use a V brake cable throw. $15 a set should buy you a good all metal brake level.


(Not recomendations, just examples, first hits in each catagory. search more, you may find better deals)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2012-Av...=US_Brakes&hash=item35be9bafa4#ht_3184wt_1055

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AVID-SPEED-...pt=US_Brakes&hash=item460f2a11c3#ht_738wt_818
 
Drunkskunk said:
.

I don't have the demensions here, but here's a random google pic of someone holding the Avid BB7 pads for comparison.
374303563_3444f3ded8.jpg



I recomend BB7s above anything else.
Click to expand...


thanks m8 ,, i will go for the BB7 , at least they have a good size pads , thanks for the recommendation .
 
Drunkskunk said:
You can buy Avid BB7 used at reasonable prices. [...] But you will need new brake levers. IIRC the Clarks use the wrong throw. They were built to use a V brake cable throw.
Click to expand...

Most mechanical disc brakes are designed to match V-brake cable travel. There is a "road" version of the BB7 that uses shorter cable travel to work with drop bar brake levers.

Avid Speed Dial levers are ideal for use with BB7s and other mechanical disks, because you can fine tune their leverage ratio.
 
mateusleo said:
My mechanical disc brakes suck too. Once i bought used shimano hydraulic disc brakes from e-bay and they arrived in perfect conditions, but they didn't fit between the disc and the motor, so i had to sell them. I've seen a cheap option for those who have problems with mechanical disc brakes. those are called semi-hydraulic, it seems a good choice since they are cheap enought to throw away if you dislike them. I didn't buy them because the shipping to Brazil is too expensive, but its cheap to the US and probably to UK too. Here is the e-bay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROMAX-FRON...380679282436?pt=US_Brakes&hash=item58a240df04. Some people told me that the hydro-lock might be a problem since the brake has all its fluid concentrated where the heat is generated, but it was a screw where you can adjust the pressure, so that problem can be solved when you feel close to get hydro-locked. Those breakes are mechanical activated and have a hydraulic piston that pushes the pads, it may bring the better or the worst from both sistems, i haven't tested them but i'd like to. Unafortunately the shippinf is too expensive for me.
Click to expand...

I have these. they are wider than a regular mechanical disc brake si I have to use a 7" disc for them to clear. They actually work great. I can lock up the rear wheel easily with them at 15 mph. One issue to consider is that most disc brakes carry a warning "Serious injury or death may occur if used with V-Brake levers". Now, I don't know if it is BS or not but these are designed to be used with v-brake levers so I don't know if there will be an issue using them with disc levers.

Long winded way of saying that I like them and for $13.00 mateusleo is right, just throw them away if you don't like them.
 
+1 for BB7s. :D

Here's a link to a post about a common 'brake fit' issue with MAC motors. This is just a specific example of the general issue, but the spacer/brake adapter solution is applicable - hopefully this problem will not show up in your case. Anyhow, BB7s use a proprietary 'CPS' caliper mount system that will accommodate misalignment of the brake adapter and frame mount. The means the BB7s are relatively easy to hack using hand tools since exact parallel faces, etc are not required.

If clearance issues arise, you may need a disc spacer or two (although the link above used washers) - these are available from many sources - here's a link to ChainReactionCycles which should minimize your shipping. You can also recycle your existing rotors into a couple of spacers by trimming them down to the center ring using a cutoff wheel. Also - you might consider using the brake bolts from your existing rotor instead of the bolts from the brake kit. The existing bolts may be slightly shorter to avoid bottoming out and breaking aluminum bits into the interior of the motor - check anyhow with any spacers you use.

disc-spacer.png
You haven't really revealed anything about the bike or motor, but if the motor side cover is either small in diameter or convex (motor is narrower toward the rim, fatter toward the axle), then using a larger rotor (185mm or 203mm) may buy you extra clearance.

As a detail, if you get a brake kit (rotor+caliper), it will come with a caliper adapter appropriate for the included rotor. Using a smaller or larger rotor is possible but will require a different caliper adapter.
 
i didnt get bk on this ,,
i upgraded the levers to alloy ones, and the difference is unbelievable ,, the old plastic ones must have had more flex than i thought they had, when i pull just the front brake i now have the front suspension trying to bottom out ,, they are so much more responsive, so i have not upgraded the disks or calipers ,, i may do this another time, but for the moment im quite happy with the way they are working ,, when i pulled the brakes on before it felt like the bike was never going to stop ,, but now i know that they will stop me ,, i also have no worries now about going down hills,
thanks for all your advice folks ,, :D
 
Glad you got back to us. Great to hear you have it figured out and was not overly expensive for you. Levers and cables need to be good on any build and plastic is never my choice for brake parts. Now try not to go over the bars when you stop fast. ;^)
 
I just wanna say that for most bikes, the spacer that goes under the disc alone is not enough.

Because you moved the disc closer to the frame, where your brakes are actually mounted, you will also need an equal sized washer on your axle between your drop out and the motor to maintain the original positioning. If you don't, you will have to dial the 'inner' fixed pad in almost all the way and the movable pad will have to be moved almost all the way out. It never felt right for me until I put a 3mm washer in there.

A simple solution might be to go with 200mm rotors ( if you have a smaller geared hub motor) such that the inner caliper is above the motor casing, although I have not tried it.
 
Chalo said:
Avid BB7 discs with 200mm rotors are best among cable actuated brakes. They are powerful, easy to set up, and nicely field-serviceable and adjustable. They come with sintered metal pads as standard.
Click to expand...
There are few replacement pads available other than the stock Avid pads. If good sintered metal pads were available for BB5, I would probably not have such a low opinion of the brakes.
Click to expand...
If you use disc brakes, you need fully metallic pads for longevity and friction coefficient. Last time I checked, I could not find metal pads for BB5. BB7 comes stock with metal pads, and has great aftermarket support from various manufacturers. Have your LBS try to find you some fully metallic replacement pads for your BB5s; if you can get some, they'll solve your problem.
Click to expand...

These statements solve my problem. I was gunna ask about BB5 vs BB7 and Organic, Semi Metal and Sintered. I assume Sintered means full metal?

Edit - PS, Yeah I realize this thread is old, but I did not feel like making a new topic.
 
Yeah me neither, but I think its time for me to upgrade, I am thinking BB7 for $60 cad and pads are $20 or Shimano SLX for half $30 plus their pads are half at $10, or XT for $50.
 
I recently tried an ebike with Avid BB7's, and a 203mm disc on the front wheel (160mm on the rear). I assumed the front brake was hydraulic, because it worked really well for a 30-MPH ebike (I am 200-lbs)...turned out is was cable-operated BB7. Highly recommended.
 
Hydraulics are sure nice, a little too pricey for me though as I wouldn't go with hydraulics disc brakes, only mechanical. Need to be able to fix out in the field.
 
markz said:
I was gunna ask about BB5 vs BB7 and Organic, Semi Metal and Sintered. I assume Sintered means full metal?
Click to expand...

Yes, sintered means fully metallic. Sintering is the process of making solid​ metal out of powdered metal by application of heat and pressure.

BB7 has inside and outside adjusters, plus hugely supported replacement pads in all materials. BB5 has only inboard adjusters, with smaller pads that are not nearly as well supported in the aftermarket. BB5 is worth working with if that's what your bike came with, but only BB7 is worth buying on purpose with your own money.
 
If you can use linear pull rim brakes, use them. That's by far the best cost-to benefit ratio in bicycle brakes today. Fit them with Kool Stop pads, and have a knowledgeable person set them up for you.

If your frame or your rims don't support rim brakes, use Avid BB7 disc brakes with metallic pads.

If​ you're willing to pay $200 or more for brakes and $100 for a pro to install them, plus whatever amount when it's time to troubleshoot or service them, then hydraulic discs might suit you.
 
And if the rim brakes just arent' enough, you can just add more. :lol:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=475#p1289564

file.php


file.php


file.php
 
Chalo said:
If you can use linear pull rim brakes, use them. That's by far the best cost-to benefit ratio in bicycle brakes today. Fit them with Kool Stop pads, and have a knowledgeable person set them up for you.

If your frame or your rims don't support rim brakes, use Avid BB7 disc brakes with metallic pads.

If​ you're willing to pay $200 or more for brakes and $100 for a pro to install them, plus whatever amount when it's time to troubleshoot or service them, then hydraulic discs might suit you.
Click to expand...


I used the kool stop mtb pads until i found their grey ebike pads. Great. I have two lightly used sets of bb7's. Not my cuppa. My failure and inexperience to adjust. But...IMO Not a whole lot better than the tektro on my pos $400 one speed fatbike.

I need to get them listed...
 
amberwolf - Very interesting, how are the brake levers actuated?
Just one lever for both or what.
Ah I will read the thread and find out ;)
I'm considering to swapping which lever controls whcih brake, so the back-front one is the first one I can reach. If I do, it'll actually be more difficult to fully squeeze the lever for the front-front brake that doesn't skid the wheel, but easier to put full pressure on the one that does skid, so maybe that's a bad idea.
Click to expand...

I'd sure love to see a picture of your setup in the brake lever department.
 
Chalo said:
...
If​ you're willing to pay $200 or more for brakes and $100 for a pro to install them, plus whatever amount when it's time to troubleshoot or service them, then hydraulic discs might suit you.
Click to expand...
Of course, someone who can't install brakes nor service them, will find cheaper braking with his shoes.

Most of us are building our own bikes Chalo. Fitting and tuning brakes is just fun, and good brakes even more so. :wink:
 
MadRhino said:
Chalo said:
...
If​ you're willing to pay $200 or more for brakes and $100 for a pro to install them, plus whatever amount when it's time to troubleshoot or service them, then hydraulic discs might suit you.
Click to expand...
Of course, someone who can't install brakes nor service them, will find cheaper braking with his shoes.

Most of us are building our own bikes Chalo. Fitting and tuning brakes is just fun, and good brakes even more so. :wink:
Click to expand...

Yeah... I work on more than a few bikes that folks worked on themselves first. Most of them should not have done that, except to the degree that they want to learn to do something well by first doing it badly a few times.

That's how I did it, as I recall.

Anyway, I don't think I've ever worked on disc brakes that were serviced by their owner that didn't rub or have an unusual amount of lever take-up before engaging. With hydraulics, it's almost always rub. At least they still stop when they rub.
 
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