Chalo
100 TW
markz said:
To judge by how often they need to be bled to have air removed from the lines, lots.
And of course, whenever they're crashed and the hoses get yanked.
BRAKES making them better ????
- Thread starter justlooking
- Start date
To judge by how often they need to be bled to have air removed from the lines, lots.
And of course, whenever they're crashed and the hoses get yanked.
MadRhino
100 GW
Brakes are very different from one another. Those big brakes that are using mineral oil can go for years without bleeding, needing only pad changes. DOT oil is more sensitive, in closed systems especially, and requires bleeding once or twice a year. Some small brakes are reputed high maintenance and difficult to bleed perfect, while open systems with larger capacity are very constant. Like any other brakes, proper installation in the first place, and pad replacement before they are completely worn out, do prevent further problems.
zackclark70
100 W
Chalo said:
never had issues with that and i do ride some crazy tracks
DRMousseau
100 W
Over the last half-century of braking improvements,... I've come to realize that NOTHING will be truly adequate for many. While stopping distance increasingly become less, so does common sense! Not to say brakes were better 50yrs ago,... it's jus that common sense KNEW they were nothing to rely or depend on!!! They still aren't, IMO.
Not so sure I'm ready for hydraulic-disk bicycle brakes,.... probably jus my personal experience with hydraulic systems in general. Maybe I should say that hydraulic bicycle systems jus aren't ready for me! I really hate working on drum-brakes of any kind, but hydraulic systems are jus far less forgiving and so much more critical of tolerance and spec and environment, and so many other things. A little wear in mechanical disk calipers for instance, is far less critical and more forgiving than a little wear of hydraulic disk calipers. Technology has much improved cables, housings, and various hydraulic lines as well,.... some piston and caliper housings materials are far better than others. Still,... I've spent far too much time repairing and servicing hydraulic brake systems, both drum and disk, new and old, and I still much prefer the simplicity and reliability of a basic mechanical disk system, or even that of a drum or rim brake system. Kinda exploring various industrial systems that give me something a bit better than available bicycle systems, but not so extreme as lighter motorcycle setups (of which nearly all are hydraulic).
Not so sure I'm ready for hydraulic-disk bicycle brakes,.... probably jus my personal experience with hydraulic systems in general. Maybe I should say that hydraulic bicycle systems jus aren't ready for me! I really hate working on drum-brakes of any kind, but hydraulic systems are jus far less forgiving and so much more critical of tolerance and spec and environment, and so many other things. A little wear in mechanical disk calipers for instance, is far less critical and more forgiving than a little wear of hydraulic disk calipers. Technology has much improved cables, housings, and various hydraulic lines as well,.... some piston and caliper housings materials are far better than others. Still,... I've spent far too much time repairing and servicing hydraulic brake systems, both drum and disk, new and old, and I still much prefer the simplicity and reliability of a basic mechanical disk system, or even that of a drum or rim brake system. Kinda exploring various industrial systems that give me something a bit better than available bicycle systems, but not so extreme as lighter motorcycle setups (of which nearly all are hydraulic).
BCBeaver
10 mW
Chalo said:
I've got to disagree with this. I'm running Shimano hydraulic brakes on my mt bike. It gets crashed regularly & I've never had an issue. After 2 years and 3 sets of pads (I ride a lot and brake heavily) I decided to bleed them and change the fluid because, well, it is just something you should do occasionally. Hydraulic is the only way to go if you want serious stopping power. Bigger rotors will give you a little more stopping power and on long descents will not heat up as much as smaller rotors. If you're experiencing brake fade on long descents you can buy pads with heat dissipation fins, they help a lot.
The only time I've ever had a hydraulic brake fail is after a moving company moved my stuff and somehow pinched a hose for a few hundred KM of wiggling in the back of a moving truck. I've hit trees, rocks and had bikes rubbing against one another in the back of a truck when running shuttles and never had an issue with my hydraulic brakes under hard use (my normal) conditions.
$.02
MadRhino
100 GW
Brakes are like women: Some people always have problems with the best ones and prefer riding the cheap bitches. 
markz
100 TW
MadRhino said:Brakes are like women: Some people always have problems with the best ones and prefer riding the cheap bitches.
Amen :lol:
markz
100 TW
Just received my dual pull lever and I did end up buying a BB7 from Bikewagon website, which I found out later is cheaper on their ebay site, probably wouldn't have had to pay duties on it either. I will be using it as a front brake lever as I have both disc and V brake on the front fork and rim. I dont have anything on the rear at the moment, but I have a new V-brake ready to be installed. I eat up the Townie V-pads right down to metal today. Got Clarks 72mm V-Brake Pads which dont seem like a lot of meat on them. Salmon Kool-Stop is still out of stock at Chain Reaction Cycle, and the funny thing is I cant find my 160 disc caliper bracket to try out the lever.
999zip999
100 TW
Luna has kool stop pads. I use dual color love them long lasting. I meet the kool stop guy at. Harbor frieght 7 yrs ago he gave me a card. Can't find it. I could be his test monkey at 7,200 watts and 47 mph rim brakes and regen. Except I have three years on these pads and probably 8,000 or more miles.
markz
100 TW
Hey 9zip do you rock these specific bad boys?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/kool-stop-bmx-brake-pads-dual-compound/rp-prod46443
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/kool-stop-bmx-brake-pads-dual-compound/rp-prod46443
Raisedeyebrows
1 kW
After installing a suspension fork on my hubmotor bike specifically so I could put on a spare Hayes hydro brake I have lying around I bought a set of the Kool-stop techtronic (whatever they're called) 3 color just to try out until I put the hydro on. Ended up buying 2 more for the rear, by far the best pads I've tried, smooth powerful stopping.
When I get motivated to put the hydro on I'll move the Kool-stops over to the suspension fork on my daughter's 24" Trek Superfly ( why couldn't I have had a killer bike like that when I was 8 yrs old?) which has no disk mount on the fork but does have one on the rear-probably put a disk wheel and a BB-7 on there. I hesitate to put a hydro brake on a kids bike for fear she might accidently rip the hose off on a branch going down a big hill or something.
When I get motivated to put the hydro on I'll move the Kool-stops over to the suspension fork on my daughter's 24" Trek Superfly ( why couldn't I have had a killer bike like that when I was 8 yrs old?) which has no disk mount on the fork but does have one on the rear-probably put a disk wheel and a BB-7 on there. I hesitate to put a hydro brake on a kids bike for fear she might accidently rip the hose off on a branch going down a big hill or something.
Regarding this old post from last year, I've finally gotten the double-cable lever installed in place of the two Avid levers, and it's actually much better braking now (though I also changed some other things like cables/housings/routings at the same time, so if nothing else the single lever is a lot easier to pull hard one-handed especially when my hands hurt, which is more often as time goes on).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=625#p1351296
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=625#p1351296
amberwolf said:
