waste of time. don't bother.

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novembersierra28 said:
Hello everyone

I am having one hard time wiring this bicycle up.

I have a CURTIS 300A controller, and am having trouble wiring it. I also have a magura throttle, and 4 20ah lead acid batteries.
I have additionally purchased, two switches, two 24v contactors (ziptied together) and jump-lead wire that can handle 200amps.
.
It's all been prepped and fitted, I even got it some fairings made out of a bag I had lying about.

But the problem now is the wiring.

some questions.

1. I have a precharge resistor, and I know I will need it (or fry my curtis)
2. can I NOT use the contactors? will a standard switch melt?
3. where does the on/off go? where do I wire that in?


BATTERY PACK 48V 20AH
> POSITIVE GOES TO ???
> NEGATIVE GOES TO ???

MOTOR
POSITIVE GOES TO ???
NEGATIVE GOES TO ???

please help as I feel well out of my depth.

thank you


If you post up a photo of the terminals on your controller, the terminals on your motor, we will be able to put little colors dots on the picture to color-code which parts to connect. :)
 
Novembersierra,

The wiring diagram in this pdf file

Black Arrow
 

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novembersierra28 said:
Hello

I have looked at the diagram. The most confusing part is that I have TWO controllers that I need to place together in series on the bike. .
Can I ask you why ?

A single Etek at 48 Volt with a 300 amps controller give you 60 Mph and more on this mountain bike, do you want to kill your self or what ?

Black Arrow
 
Hi

I'm sorry but you're crazy 60 MPH a mountain bicycle with V-brakes, without suspension. This ebike is a killing project, sorry but I didn't help you to kill yourself!

Black Arrow
 
I have to agree with Black Arrow. Between the low grade bike and the ghetto mount it looks like a good thing that it won't run. Be careful out there :shock:
 
I don't think you can run two controllers in series. You certainly can't run a single thottle to two in series.

Is the controller voltage rating too low or something?

You need the contactor if you value your life. The switch that opens it should be on the handlebars where you can hit it without letting go of the grips (like a motorcycle kill switch).
 
I'll show you how my curtis 1204 is wired on CrazyBike2, but...

...first I will give you a warning about this: I am not confident that the bike frame you've got that on is going to hold up to what that motor, controller, and battery combination will be capable of. Since it has no suspension, if you intend to go fast on it, regardless of any experience you already have riding fast , it may come apart underneath you, or it might bounce off a rock or a pothole and smear you across the road. If it were a much lower-riding bike like my CrazyBike2 is, I'd feel better about it, but....

Anyway, it's your neck, and I'm crazy enough to ride a bike built of junk, so I have no business counselling anyone else. :)

So here's how mine is wired, first with a pic of it on the bike:
DSC02307.JPG
--B+ is pack positive. Motor also has one side wired here. Keyswitch also has one side wired here.
--B- is pack negative. Mine has a breaker between the actual batteries and the controller. Yours will have the contactor (and maybe a breaker too, or a fuse, would be a good idea). Throttle pot also has it's "bottom" side wired here.
--M- is motor's other side, whichever one needs to be negative to turn it the right way.
--Mine doesn't have an A2, but it's only used for wound-field motors, and yours are permanent magnet. So nothing goes there.
--The three little tabs:
1--keyswitch, one side to here and one side to B+
2--"top" side wire from throttle pot.
3--center wire from throttle pot.

You'll have to use a meter to tell which wire is which on the throttle, unless you already have a diagram that tells you which color is which.

I'm a bad boy and don't use a precharge resistor. ;) I do recommend it, though. Just wire it across the contactor's main pins. Then you use the ignition key to "turn off" the controller and the contactor.

Wiring up the contactor, well, I don't use one so I don't have a diagram for that, either, but the PDF instructions linked above do. :)

I STRONGLY recommend you crimp on *and solder* lugs to the wires that go to the Curtis. Just clamping the stripped wire onto it's tabs isn't going to work very well for very long (I already did this, trust me--I got lucky). If one of those wires comes loose while power is flowing, it could arc and destroy the controller. Really. Yes, it's happened. ;)


Another bit of advice--those batteries won't put out anywhere near what that controller and motor are rated for for very long, and they'll die quick from doing that often. ;)
 
BlackArrow said:
novembersierra28 said:
Hello

I have looked at the diagram. The most confusing part is that I have TWO controllers that I need to place together in series on the bike.
Can I ask you why ?

A single Etek at 48 Volt with a 300 amps controller give you 60 Mph and more on this mountain bike, do you want to kill your self or what?

The 20AH SLA batteries would have to be pretty exceptional to supply 300A for more than a short burst without dramatic voltage sag. I don't think 60mph is in the cards for this bike.

I do think that >90 lbs of assist gear added to an ordinary MTB would make for a pretty shaky and damage-prone machine even at normal e-bike speeds.

Chalo
 
Chalo

The 60 Mph is not the important point, the Etek motor as enough torque with 300 amps to blow out this small chain and several injuries can occur before going somewhere. Even with 40 Mph top speed this bike still a killing bike for everyone.

Black Arrow
 
i'm thinking the broken chain whipping around forcefully is the most likely result. the thought of having a chain snap somewhere between my legs just makes me shudder and cringe. a metal chain whipping around would be like, taking a chainsaw to balsa wood. massive potential for very serious injuries.

could be that this gent suffers from 'Apotemnophilia". being unable to find a surgeon willing to perform the operation, he has devised this method to perform a rather spectacular DIY amputarion.

possibly he views it as a win-win senario. he either gets his amputation or he wins the coveted "DARWIN AWARD". either way it would generate much publicity and possibly more than the normal 15 minutes of fame.

let us not contribute to his sickness.

rick
 
novembersierra28 said:
I was inspired by this guy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGTB_uZdw0o

decided I'd build the same bicycle. It's pretty shaky, so I'm contemplating getting some A123's in there when I've sorted out the space.
For now I guess it's a testing thing at 36volts (the guy in the video used 24v).

Did you read about all the problems that person had with his bike?

Did you notice that he transferred the same motor to a motorbike chassis? I'm guessing he would not have gone to such trouble if he had been happy with the mountain bike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6R8T-F3O70

Chalo
 
:mrgreen:


rkosiorek said:
i'm thinking the broken chain whipping around forcefully is the most likely result. the thought of having a chain snap somewhere between my legs just makes me shudder and cringe. a metal chain whipping around would be like, taking a chainsaw to balsa wood. massive potential for very serious injuries.

could be that this gent suffers from 'Apotemnophilia". being unable to find a surgeon willing to perform the operation, he has devised this method to perform a rather spectacular DIY amputarion.

possibly he views it as a win-win senario. he either gets his amputation or he wins the coveted "DARWIN AWARD". either way it would generate much publicity and possibly more than the normal 15 minutes of fame.

let us not contribute to his sickness.

rick
 
BlackArrow said:
Chalo

The 60 Mph is not the important point, the Etek motor as enough torque with 300 amps to blow out this small chain and several injuries can occur before going somewhere. Even with 40 Mph top speed this bike still a killing bike for everyone.

Black Arrow


I am trying to AMEND the problems, I like a challenge, don't you?
 
Novembersierra,

We are worries about you, I really hope that nothing bad happen to you it's so hard to understand? Your current project as big risk of injuries and I'm not the only one with this thinking here!

You really like challenges?

Challenge #1:

Use this Etek motor on any light motorcycle or moped of your choice. You will have a lot fun at 48 Volt and you don't risk your life or injuries because of bad design.

Challenge #2:

Exchange or sell those parts for X5303 + controller and put them on this bicycle and you will have a lot of fun too.

Black Arrow
 
novembersierra28 said:
Chalo...I do hate it when people discourage me. I do not see this as fair, or even useful. I would rather be told WHAT TO DO TO AVOID the trouble the man in the video had with his bicycle, rather than be told it couldn't be done.
I know you're replying to Chalo, but: I'm definitely not trying to be discouraging, just want to be sure you don't get hurt; I already know from my CrazyBike2 experiences what power *could* do if unleashed on an insufficient frame/wheel/chainrings/etc; it was pretty dramatic seeing those rings bent like that, and FEELING them crunch up inches away from me. :schock:

I can imagine that it would be easily possible for me to build up the chainrings and such to take the fulll power of the bike and then have something in my frame fail instead.... I would personally want to build a much more power-capable frame to put all this stuff on (and I would definitely not put it on a regular plain-jane bike frame--I doubt it would handle it for long).

Or if I were to hit something (rock, pothole, debris) significant at high speeds with my unsuspended rear wheel, given how many spokes and stuff I've already broken, since it's so heavy for what the wheel was made to take plus the torque I'm putting thru it with this motor. (I've ridden it at about 40MPH downhill without all the wieght of batteries/motor and it was actually fun, but the road was smooth and clear; I'd've been unhappy discovering it's performance on a bad road at those speeds!).

So...just be careful. :)
 
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