I have no personal experience with this controller but I understand it can be programmed for Speed, Torque, or Balanced modes. Operation of the first two is clear, but the last is a proprietary crap shoot. You should be using torque mode to ensure the torque on each side is proportional to the throttle signal. It's a little unclear if balanced mode will work appropriately.cboy wrote: ↑Aug 15, 2018 6:42 pmFrom a dead stop the trike pulls hard to the left (driver’s side) under moderate to heavy acceleration.
* If the trike is rolling (5-10 mph or more) the trike goes straight under heavy acceleration.
* If accelerate slowly from dead stop, the trike goes straight.
* When accelerating heavily and pulling left, a quick release and then apply full throttle - trike goes straight.
* When trike is cruising, it tracks and runs straight...no dog tracking, and no wandering in either direction.
I checked the specs and it turns out the KLS series of controllers is NOT programmable for torque mode...or speed or balanced. I'm next looking into your suggestion of tinkering with the phase current limit. My question is, would adjusting phase current for balanced acceleration have a negative effect during "cruising" when there is little or no acceleration? Edit...oops, just re-read your post and now see that it will have little or no effect when not accelerating. So disregard that question.
The external connections all appear solid. But what it looks like inside the motors or the controllers I don't know. Is there a way I can test for this possibility?
If this would require switching the large phase wires (relatively difficult on my setup) and the smaller phase sensor wires (very difficult on my set up) then it would probably be easier to just swap the controllers from side to side. Then all the wiring harnesses would just hook up without having to fabricate a bunch of jumpers etc. Wouldn't swapping the controllers provide the same clues as to which is a fault...wheel or controller? I'm not sure I want to tackle this at all if I can get the thing to run straight and maintain satisfactory overall performance by just adjusting the phase current limits to balance out the torque of the two controllers. It would be interesting to know exactly where the difference originates, but a lot of effort to find out. If my overall performance drops off as a result of adjusting down the phase current limits, then that's a different story and I'd definitely go digging deeper to find an alternative solution.amberwolf wrote: ↑Aug 15, 2018 11:42 pm
To test for motor differences vs controller differences, you can connect the phase wires opposite, meaning connect the phases from the righthand controller to the lefthand motor, and vice-versa. If there is no change in the issue, then the motor is the cause. If the problem swaps sides, then the controller is the cause.
The Kelly specs are essentially worthless regarding specific available features and programming options. You need to run the configuration program and snoop around.
This is an indicator that something is seriously wrong. This is way beyond a controller internal phase current measurement calibration error.
Yes - swapping controllers will certainly localize the problem. This is a critical step. I do not think you want to proceed to 'just get it working' because you have a clear indication of a 50% phase current screwup somewhere - this could possibly have unpleasant consequences if you don't correct or at least identify the issue.
Here are screen shots taken before any adjustments to the phase current limits. There are three screens for each controller: "vehicle", "control", and "motor". I identify the two controllers as P for passenger side and D for driver side.
I'm not seeing anything in the program like autolearn or autotune. On the screenshots in my prior post you can see a "setup wizard" on the left side of the screen. This is apparently just a logo. It is not a clickable function. The only button I am not certain of is the "read zero" button on the vehicle screen. I have not used this or clicked it. The pages shown in the screenshots are the only programming available. There is a "monitoring" screen, shown below, which looks like this when the throttle is at rest. In the second column there is an item "phase current". This does flash numbers as the throttle is applied but the numbers change too quickly for me to make any sense of it. The only other screen is the COM screen which simply identifies the communication port.teklektik wrote: ↑Aug 16, 2018 7:48 am
I believe this controller has a setup or autolearn mode - this sort of mode is designed to eliminate the need to get phase wires connected in a specific order as with many controllers. I would start by re-running the auto-setup for the 100% motor and see if matters improve. Repeat the autotune on the other motor and check the results there. (Importantly, this must be done every time you randomly connect phase wires or swap controllers and motors.)
I just connected the wires to match the color coding...yellow, blue and green. The hall sensor wires (the small wires from the hub motor) connect together in a pre-configured connector (on the QS Motor hub) to a matching connector on the kelly controller. According to the Kelly manual, one of the first this to do in setting up is to run their "Identification Angle" program. It is unclear in the manual exactly what this does, perhaps it is setting the phase/hall connections. I don't know. Maybe this is even the "autotune" function you mentioned. I did run this for both controllers according to the instructions and it went thru the process (it briefly turns the wheels in both directions) and it posted an "85" on the "vehicle" screen, which Kelly says is the indicator that everything is a-okay and ready to be driven.
Yep - that's it. There is no 'standard color coding' - running that program sorts out the phases and halls and does some positioning angle measurements for the halls. It will work even if you connect the colors every which-a-way.cboy wrote: ↑Aug 16, 2018 12:03 pmI just connected the wires to match the color coding...yellow, blue and green. The hall sensor wires (the small wires from the hub motor) connect together in a pre-configured connector (on the QS Motor hub) to a matching connector on the kelly controller. According to the Kelly manual, one of the first this to do in setting up is to run their "Identification Angle" program. It is unclear in the manual exactly what this does, perhaps it is setting the phase/hall connections. I don't know. Maybe this is even the "autotune" function you mentioned.
I reran the ID program. No change, still pulled left. Came back in the garage and upon close inspection noticed that the pre-wired (by QS Motors) connectors for the hall sensor wires had the yellow and green wires reversed. I hadn't read you post at that point saying the wiring really doesn't matter and the ID program will sort it out. But I did reverse those wires on both controllers so that the colors matched up. I then reran the ID program once again and took it out for a test run. No change...still pulls left.teklektik wrote: ↑Aug 16, 2018 12:18 pm
Okay - so I would rerun the id program, etc as mentioned in the above post where I called out 'learning' or 'autotune'. This is getting down to the last resorts for standard procedures to verify all is well, but if you contact Kelly about the torque mismatch, they are pretty surely going to ask you to do the same.
I'll try a search for those threads...maybe some other clues in the posts. Thing is, I can get the motors running in the correct direction so would the off ground battery current tell us anything helpful?amberwolf wrote: ↑Aug 16, 2018 12:31 pmFWIW, there have been threads around here where the automatic "learn" routine simply wouldn't work on some controller/motor combinations; I don't remember the brands though. Sometimes the only solution was to manually determine the phase / hall wiring combination for the lowest off-ground battery current that gets the motor running in the correct direction.
Somewhat. If these are roughly the same at full throttle and relatively small then the controllers are set up okay - which is sort of what it looks like just now. (Those are big motors with big tires - I'm not sure what 'relatively small' would be: somewhere between 3A-5A I would think - guessing here.) That result would suggest that the normal running mode is okay but the phase current limiting is somehow fouled up in one since that is a separate mechanism not in play in the unload full throttle mode. If the currents are different or large, then a bunch of things could be awry so that result is not as helpful.