Hello, thank you for letting me join the forum. I purchased a 20" fat tire 48v, 20a, 750w Bafang hub drive ebike. The display and controller are somewhat limited. I would like to know what display and controller options are available that will give more options. The display is C500B-lcd Bigstone and the controller is DC MotoControllerbylithiumbattery 48v, 25a, speet set 1.1-4 2vdual mode, zhipu electron, brakes low, booster 1:5 6km/h. The dimensions for the area for the controller that stores under battery is small 5.5"L x 2.5"H x 2.75" D. I have pas 1-5 currently. I would like more speed ranges for pas and the option of having higher top end speed. Your help is greatly appreciated. I don't want to experiment and mess anything up. Thank you!
Upgrade controller and display info.
- Thread starter Haulinass
- Start date
motomech
10 MW
Leave it alone, the controller and display are the same as every other budget sine wave "Torque Imitation" system out there and they all have 5 levels of PAS. And neither the controller nor display will add to the top speed, that is batt. Volts and you don't want to mess w/ that either.
You might install some slightly bigger tires which would add a mph or two.
In general, it's a losing cause to try and modify "Factory" ebikes unless you really know what you are doing.
I would suggest you ride it as is while you study here and and plan the ebike you will build to your tastes and then sell the one you bought.
You might install some slightly bigger tires which would add a mph or two.
In general, it's a losing cause to try and modify "Factory" ebikes unless you really know what you are doing.
I would suggest you ride it as is while you study here and and plan the ebike you will build to your tastes and then sell the one you bought.
I would suggest there IS some speed being left on the table boy a lot of controllers. It's not a lot, but many/most are designed to restrict a percentage of the battery's available power to limit speed (to keep them legal for starters).
Your job, if you want access to this power, is to keep reading and asking questions until you have a full understanding of the issues at hand. No it's not easy.
Your job, if you want access to this power, is to keep reading and asking questions until you have a full understanding of the issues at hand. No it's not easy.
Haulinass said:
Actually those numbers on the motor don't help since, as far as I know, nobody has figured out what they mean. There's usually something to indicate when it was made. Any, a link would work.
If you know the motor, or one like it, you could us the ebike motor simulator to see if you'd see more speed. If your controller really can put out 25 amps, then it might not help. Here's a comparison of changing from a 25A to 35A controller, using a Bafang 750W G60 motor.
My guess is you need higher voltage or a faster motor with those 20" wheels.
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MG60_750&batt=B4814_EZ&axis=mph&cont=C25&hp=0&cont_b=C35&motor_b=MG60_750&batt_b=B4814_EZ&hp_b=0&bopen=true&wheel=20i&wheel_b=20i
If you're set on going the controller route, you could fit the Phaserunner in that small compartment where the existing controller is, but you'd need a Cycle Analyst to go with it. It has field weakening, so maybe you'd get another 10% more speed.
Not a cheap solution for not much gain.
Is it one of those folding fat bikes?
E-HP I think you are correct on the G60 750 after looking around a bit. It is interesting that there is only a 10% improvement with a 35amp controller. I would not go to the trouble and expense for that amount of improvement. I noticed that with the grey wire disconnected, it added about 20% more to the PAS. So PAS 1 went from about 8mph to about 10mph. Do I have it correct that PAS is determined by the controller and not the display? I would like PAS 1 to be about 5mph and go up from there. You guys are great for helping the green pea. Thank you.
motomech
10 MW
I'm not sure how dis-connecting one wire can boost the top speed 5 mph, but 24 mph is unbelievably fast for a sm. wheel bike on 48 Volts!
Those motor spampings are still a mystery of the East, but it does tell us one thing, aside from the motor rating. The 20 means it is a high-speed range motor (Called a 328) intended for 20" whl.s, but your top speed tells us that as well.
I personally wouldn't want to go faster than 24 mph on 20" wheels, so I would say you got a good one and you should just ride it.
Curious about one thing, what does your batt. read (in Volts) when it's fully charged?
docw009
1 MW
motomech said:
We're talking about 20" folding fat bikes here. I have one also with a Bafang G60 motor. There seem to be dozens of different importers of this style bike. Bafang may well have a faster wind for the 20".
The diameter of a 20x4.0" tire is around 23". Mine is a 36V model, but I installed a 20A KT sinewave controller. My bike originally topped out around 20 mph on 36V, but will approach 25mph on 48V. It was just marginally faster when I tried 52V. Being a longer frame than my typical 20" folders with 20 x 1.75" tires, these fatbike bikes are more stable at speed. They weigh a ton. Mine came in at 60 pounds with an alloy frame, but the rims were steel.
The OP's desire for a 5 mph PAS and 20+ mph will be hard to meet for a low cost controller. My KT 20A sinewave controller allows the current to be set to 10A (50%), but top speed will drop too. Don't know how much, never tried it. There's a single wire on many controllers to limit the speed. Mine will pedal around 8 mph only if there is a slight hill or headwind. Otherwise 10-12 mph.
docw009, your performance and mine seem quite similar along with the boat anchor weight. I was hoping I could find a simple plug and play controller and display to give me PAS 1-9. I can live with 24 mph on top side. I will keep riding, reading and learning. Thanks for all of the comments.
E-HP said:
It's pretty likely that this means number 656 in the batch, month 05, year (20)19.
JustAroundTown
100 µW
Hi Haulinass, I know this thread is quite old but since I'm using the what I believe to the same setup you were discussing here. I'm reaching out to see if there is any help you can provide. Even the smallest of things might help! In my case I have a system that just stopped out of the blue. I originally believed that something just came disconnected but could not find anything and after taking a volt meter to the controller board I believe the board is damaged. I found what I believe to be is the same kit online but am hoping that I can get additional details about the kit. I don't want to have to solder all of the wiring to each of the subsystems (lights, horn, brakes, etc). If you have any input please get back to me. Otherwise I'm off to continue my research!
Thanks JustAroundTown ;0)
Given that the member was last online on June 2020, it might be better to start a new thread, providing the details of your particular situation, and components you are using.
JustAroundTown
100 µW
Understood. Thanks!
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