Cable disc brakes: Road vs MTB

Assuming both are post mount, practically speaking what's difference between (cable actuated) road and mtb calipers?

Is it just long vs short pull, short for road and long for mtb, or would there be other standout differences as well? Same format otherwise as far as mounting and such?

Mounts are standard of 2 types: post mount and IS mount. Adapters are common from IS to post. Most frames and forks are IS brake mount.

Mechanical disc brakes are low braking power, and require more frequent maintenance because of cable stretching or breaking. Hydro brakes can be operated with one finger, even stopping a heavy bike at high speed, and the best of them require only yearly maintenance.

Pad surface is what matters the most, then lever modulation and adjustability. Large pad surface does make less heat, last longer, with better consistency, and improved modulation. Good levers have excellent modulation, giving the rider a precise control of friction up to a predictable locking point. They also have bite point and travel adjustment that is letting the rider tune the lever to exact same feel and performance as the pads are wearing.

Road or MTB, is mostly a matter of size and weight. Basically, they are the same within a brand, only bigger for MTB. On mechanical they have more leverage. On hydro, bigger pistons, more pistons, larger pad contact surface. Better cables or hoses are a good investment, at the first maintenance or pad replacement. Better pads too, especially for those riding dirt and/or high speed.

HK12K said:

Is it just long vs short pull, short for road and long for mtb, or would there be other standout differences as well?

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In the Avid BB7 Mtn vs Road, I've only seen the difference that it is a long pull vs short pull lever needed, but I don't have the Road version to compare in my hands.

If you get something like the Travel Agent from Problemsolvers, you can use the one caliper with the other lever, if necessary.


I'm using the BB7 Mtn on the front wheel of the SB Cruiser trike, and it will easily skid the wheel with little lever effort if setup to do so. (skidding the wheel is beyond maximum possible braking that that wheel can do). Gets toasty hot under braking from 20MPH to a stop...but it works fine.


Haven't rebuilt the rear frames to install the rear ones yet.

I've got zee's but have been tossing around the idea of swapping the rear brake to a cable actuated hydraulic so I can make use of these variable regen cable pull brake levers that I picked up.

Realistically much of my rear wheel braking is done by regen so the caliper is just helping out to come to a complete stop or lock it up offroad when needed, so downgrade aside I think it might work ok.

I was thinking if the road version had less lever pull required for a full stroke I could set it up so the caliper only started gripping towards the end of the levers range of motion. This way the first 90% or so of the pull would be regen only, with the caliper actually grabbing the last 10% or so to come to a complete stop or slide the ass end out when desired. (I'm no bike mechanic though, so if this absolutely won't work please let me know.)

The fact that the road version is roughly half price may be a consideration as well, but combined with the presumably shorter pull it might sway me in that direction.

HK12K said:

... so I can make use of these variable regen cable pull brake levers that I picked up.

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If you don't mind me asking, where did you pick up a variable regen brake lever? I've been looking for an integrated solution for that, to improve on my current solution of cabling up a regular brake lever to a cable actuated hall throttle box.

Aliexpress.