New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

extrasilver said:
i will be ordering a 52 & 48t on friday

There's not a lot of difference there. I'm running both the stock 42T and 52T and, given my rear gears, I hardly need the two. Even with the steepest hills I've had to do so far, the 52T with 28T has been low enough, and 52T with 13T (it won't stay in the 11 - going to try and change the chain out today) gets me up to over 25MPH....


as im running a single speed bike every tooth counts! right now with the stock 16/42t gearing the acceleration and hill climbing is really good but im aiming for a higher top speed and for the gearing to have longer legs.. right now it takes about 2-3 seconds to hit 35kph then myself and the motor hit our max cadence ( without looking like a wolly anway )

just to give a rough idea, if you use your bike with the gearing set to 16 & 52t how does it perform from 0 > top speed and what is the top speed you can reach? i understand there are a few a variables to play here but just so i have a very rough idea
 
eyebicycle, Do you have a website. Saw your ebay store. Someone mentioned a complete ebike from you. None in your ebay store. Nice to see the new TSDZ2 and related products there.
 
extrasilver said:
just to give a rough idea, if you use your bike with the gearing set to 16 & 52t how does it perform from 0 > top speed and what is the top speed you can reach? i understand there are a few a variables to play here but just so i have a very rough idea

I don't have a 16T in the cassette, but I do have a 15, my third from top and most used, probably. I try not to take off from a dead stop in that gear unless its flat or downhill, and it will get me going pretty fast but not to top speed. A 16 would have a bit less top speed.

I just went and looked it up and with my 27" tires, the 16T with the 52T should top out the cadence at 23.5 MPH, however, I don't think I can actually get there - 19 maybe?

BTW, in just looking up the speeds, I realize that last night when I posted I must have looked at the wrong spreadsheet entry; my 11T / 52T combination should get me to 34.2 MPH at 90 pedal RPM! :shock: Somehow I don't think it's going to do that for me, but it's nice to dream! :lol:

Anyway, I'd think that a 16T / 52T combo with 27" wheels would be OK if you could only pick one gear pair. It will give you a lower top speed than you might like but the TSDZ2 will take away a lot of need for any lower gearing, just remember to get the pedal speeds up some before putting on a lot of torque! That will be your hardest job with a single speed... Once going, you'll be fine.

Oh, get to the same calculator I'm using here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88719&p=1293889#p1293889

There are a couple of different versions - the youngest is perhaps the best of them! :D
 
how does the torque sensor speak to the controller with the TSDZ system?

im curious if i could create my own throttle between the torque sensor and the board so a throttle can give false toque readings to the controller acting as a throttle

any thoughts on this?

thanks
 
extrasilver said:
how does the torque sensor speak to the controller with the TSDZ system?

im curious if i could create my own throttle between the torque sensor and the board so a throttle can give false toque readings to the controller acting as a throttle

any thoughts on this?

thanks

The motor, its controller, and the torque sensor are all packaged into one assembly. You'd have to take it apart and find the interconnection cable inside the assembly. As for how it works from an electronic point of view, you might contact Tongsheng and tell them you're interested in buying a torque sensor (they sell them independently) and ask for a specification sheet...

My plan will be to get the software for programming the controller and find the controls to turn on the throttle! I hope to get around to this in the next week or two.
 
First time poster. Been watching this thread. I'm sitting on a BBS-02 that is still new in box, I think I'm going to sell it and buy the 500w tsdz2 from auto-ebike.com (is there any other place to get it in the USA?)

Going to use it for commuting. I think the torque sensor on this unit will be much more enjoyable and natural than the cadence sensor on the bbs02. A few questions for the community...

  • How is the reliability of this unit? I just saw a german guy posted a video on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_1ub6DThYU It looks like the blue gear stripped inside his motor. Is this a common problem? Is this unit reliable or does it commonly have issues?

  • Has anyone made a kit to get this unit on a 100mm bottom bracket? fatbike.

  • The motor draws 18-amps max, correct?
 
extrasilver said:
how does the torque sensor speak to the controller with the TSDZ system?

im curious if i could create my own throttle between the torque sensor and the board so a throttle can give false toque readings to the controller acting as a throttle

any thoughts on this?

thanks
Most likely it is a simple resistive pressure sensor (strain gauge load cell) like those found in a bathroom scale. Same principle, but different shape. Small deformations in the surface changes the resistance and then the thing is programmed to pick that up through a circuit of some kind - like an instrumentation amplifier and a current source through a wheatstone bridge.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheatstone_bridge
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_cell#Strain_gauge_load_cell

I haven't taken it apart but if I was to design one this is what I would do.

If it's just a resistive device it should be easy to install a variable resistor or attenuator in series to act as a "throttle" of some kind.

good luck.
 
mrtimo said:
First time poster. Been watching this thread. I'm sitting on a BBS-02 that is still new in box, I think I'm going to sell it and buy the 500w tsdz2 from auto-ebike.com (is there any other place to get it in the USA?)

Going to use it for commuting. I think the torque sensor on this unit will be much more enjoyable and natural than the cadence sensor on the bbs02. A few questions for the community...

  • How is the reliability of this unit? I just saw a german guy posted a video on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_1ub6DThYU It looks like the blue gear stripped inside his motor. Is this a common problem? Is this unit reliable or does it commonly have issues?

  • Has anyone made a kit to get this unit on a 100mm bottom bracket? fatbike.

  • The motor draws 18-amps max, correct?
All mid motor systems will have reliability be determined by how you use it within the drive train. If you run the thing hot on too high an assist while on too high a gear you will apply torque through a locked rotor. The blue gear acts like a shear pin, failing in this case to save the controller and the motor. Think of it like a fuse. You buy a new one and you are back in business. Gear down on hills and when starting on a hill or with lots of wieght - don't abuse it - and it will last a long time.

You wouldn't start a manual transmission car in 5th gear so why start your bike in the highest gearing?

I've never had a problem with mine. Long story short I'd chalk this up to human error and say that gear is designed to fail under those conditions.

Also - make sure you use a white lithium grease (from the tub, not the can) to lube these things. Regrease the gears after purchase cause the factory may have not used enough. Never use a petroleum grease as this might dissolve or otherwise weaken plastic parts like that blue gear. - again the cause of failure here would be human error.
 
squee22 said:
All mid motor systems will have reliability be determined by how you use it within the drive train. If you run the thing hot on too high an assist while on too high a gear you will apply torque through a locked rotor. The blue gear acts like a shear pin, failing in this case to save the controller and the motor. Think of it like a fuse. You buy a new one and you are back in business. Gear down on hills and when starting on a hill or with lots of wieght - don't abuse it - and it will last a long time.

You wouldn't start a manual transmission car in 5th gear so why start your bike in the highest gearing? .....
This is a very good description of the issue! A mechanical fuse !

But then what about the single speed users?
And what about when TS finally makes the throttle they sell, work with the system when it is plugged into the port provided for it, now?

Maybe they know that there will be SS users that don't want to pedal at all and they might be 'popping the mechanical fuse' routinely.
They could have SW that limits current-to-RPM to safely use Throttle Only. Temp sensors in the motor and power controller area could help protect the drive from hard use (abuse?).

But as you can see in this thread some owners just want to smoke the thing. Nothing wrong with playing around like that, just don't blame the hardware.
 
mrtimo said:
First time poster. Been watching this thread. I'm sitting on a BBS-02 that is still new in box, I think I'm going to sell it and buy the 500w tsdz2 from auto-ebike.com (is there any other place to get it in the USA?)

Going to use it for commuting. I think the torque sensor on this unit will be much more enjoyable and natural than the cadence sensor on the bbs02. A few questions for the community...

  • How is the reliability of this unit? I just saw a german guy posted a video on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_1ub6DThYU It looks like the blue gear stripped inside his motor. Is this a common problem? Is this unit reliable or does it commonly have issues?

  • Has anyone made a kit to get this unit on a 100mm bottom bracket? fatbike.

  • The motor draws 18-amps max, correct?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSDZ2-48v-750w-18a-VLDC-5-Throttle-EBrakes-Dual-Light-Connectors-EXCLUSIVE-MODEL-/222584318544?hash=item33d30f2a50:g:ZKoAAOSw2kZZbBeF
 
mrtimo said:
First time poster. Been watching this thread. I'm sitting on a BBS-02 that is still new in box, I think I'm going to sell it and buy the 500w tsdz2 from auto-ebike.com

Welcome to the thread! ... I bought mine from auto-ebike.com - it came quicker than they said and they were the cheapest by far.

mrtimo said:
Going to use it for commuting. I think the torque sensor on this unit will be much more enjoyable and natural than the cadence sensor on the bbs02.

There are a number of pilot reports from BBS02 owners who say they like the TSDZ2 better. :D

mrtimo said:
How is the reliability of this unit? I just saw a german guy posted a video on youtube. It looks like the blue gear stripped inside his motor. Is this a common problem? Is this unit reliable or does it commonly have issues?

There are only a few reports of the blue gear getting wiped out, and has already been reported, if you treat it sensibly, it should last. I'm always careful to never start off with anything but the lowest assist level (or off entirely) and only hit higher torques when the cadence is up considerably - so far so good.

There are also just TWO reports of broken crankshafts, both with higher mileage and heavier usage. From this we've learned that the failures occurred at a point where there's what engineers call an "infinite stress riser" - a groove with squared off edges - in the shaft. However, the younger of these two reports had a followup (about two weeks ago or so in this thread) in which the pilot reported that the replacement unit didn't have this same "feature", so maybe Tongsheng has cured the problem! :)

I've followed it closely and have never heard of another complaint.

mrtimo said:
Has anyone made a kit to get this unit on a 100mm bottom bracket? fatbike.

IDK about 100mm exactly but there might be help for you; There's someone out there who put up designs for special end-caps (WAY back in this thread, around page 7 or so - look for images) for a special installation and there's also the guys in Italy ... um, name escapes me at the moment ... who make a kit to adapt the TSDZ2 into yet more frames. ... they ALSO market a copper gear to replace the blue nylon fuse! :lol: You can be sure it's noisy by comparison. (My unit - and most reports agree - is completely silent.)

mrtimo said:
The motor draws 18-amps max, correct?

Not all of them are labled that way. Mine was made in the first week of June this year and is labled at 48V, 15A, and after that the first reports of 48V and 18A were heard. Further, there have been as yet no properly instrumented confirmations that the units actually draw either 15 or 18A. Also note that my unit was marketed as 500W, but watts are amps times volts so mine would be 720w nominal! 18A would be 864w. And besides, my "48v" battery usually kicks out 54.5v when fully charged and even over 53v when under load, so that'd be 795w for my system and 954w for the 18A ... So... I have my doubts. And in any event it hardly matters; my unit makes me and my bike fly! Find the build thread for it here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&p=1308321#p1308321
 
squee22 said:
Also - make sure you use a white lithium grease (from the tub, not the can) to lube these things. Regrease the gears after purchase cause the factory may have not used enough. Never use a petroleum grease as this might dissolve or otherwise weaken plastic parts like that blue gear. - again the cause of failure here would be human error.

Hi squee22,

can you comment / clarify "from the tub, not the can"?

I thought that most if not all lithium greases are a mixture of petroleum grease and lithium, which is, after all, a metal. ... and in any event, what has that got to do with the container it's sold in?

I guess I need to dig into this a bit further!
 
tinasdude said:
mrtimo said:
is there any other place to get it in the USA? [...snip...]
The motor draws 18-amps max, correct?[/list]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSDZ2-48v-750w-18a-VLDC-5-Throttle-EBrakes-Dual-Light-Connectors-EXCLUSIVE-MODEL-/222584318544?hash=item33d30f2a50:g:ZKoAAOSw2kZZbBeF

Yes, that's eye's ebay site - eyebyesickle I mean. He's a regular poster here and has pushed Tongsheng. As long as a year ago, Tongsheng was talking about higher wattage versions, but were for unknown reasons dragging their feet. When the 500W finally came out in late May, eye got one and was immediately pushing Tongsheng to do more - after all, he can do the math, too, and knew (as any electrically aware person should) that Tongsheng was being very cautious about their ratings... I earlier today posted about this already. So, he managed to sweet-talk them into doing some things they might not otherwise have done / weren't doing. I strongly suspect that the secret sauce is all in the programming of the controller since the required wire diameter for a given current goes down with voltage, and the new 500w system, which was also new with 48v (nominal) is likely wired just fine for 1000w, much less 750 since their standard unit is really almost there anyway with a full "48v" pack. But, he's clearly pushed them in more ways than just software. For example, I'm delighted he's gotten them to caugh up the better wiring harness!

Do note though, that eye says he's drop-shipping new units from China and is only using local USA stocks for warrantee support. ... IDK where he's getting the copper gears, but probably from the Italians. :)
 
Thanks, yeah, I can be a very very pushy person =P haha

but actually, I am not quite drop shipping... I put more work into this than that =P

I am teamed with TONGSHENG~AUTO-EBIKE, for these TSDZ2 Also, metal gear is not from Italy anymore, I get them direct... The site is just newly acquired and we are transferring ADS/ETC... After smoothing stuff out through my person, Auto Ebike was really listening and ready to play ball, and actually had a line with an engineer there at TS, so it worked out good. Quicker than through my own person after things got started.

Now, I am branching off my business to a small lower power section, hub motors 1000w and under, and TSDZ2, and BBS series, and hard battery packs, at AUTO-EBIKE PRICES, WITH MY SUPPORT. Also, I will add some other items there, that ONLY ship from US, because I offer them from here... if that makes sense. It is TRULY a partnership site, not just drop shipping, as we have items from both our stock, and SHARED STOCK.... to give a little insight.

I am really hoping this will provide a reasonable price for this stuff, and good support, especially for USA (just cause its needed, don't know about where anybody else is =P ) so there I am talking....

Also for a lot of things, such as my HIGH POWER stuff, I have stock in china, and some in USA... I have a little more invested than your drop shipping setup. I keep MOST stock in China, because DHL ships SUPER QUICK, and fedex/ups isn't tooooo bad, and a lot of my stuff is international so it would waste resources for me to double ship stock...

Basically I have trusted people and relationships to help me manage stock and logistics overseas, as opposed to just drop shipping or buying bulk, this allows for a more efficient operations = lower price. I'm pretty good with logistics and I know people that are even better =P

Sometimes, I write =P a lot. I mean, waaay too much =P is it a tongue? I am not even sure? Now what do you think about this guy posting on the internet? :shock:

About EBAY, its WAAAAAY to expensive. Plus, they hold your payment for 21 days, and take 10% before I get it.... SOOO =P it is really just so people see it, more than to make sales...

Anyway, I am not here really for the sales, by the way, trying not to pump it.

BUT, if anyone needs the new speed sensor w/ Y split for the headlight/taillight, I can ship em next day within the US for $25...


IMG_20170729_184531.jpg

I figured, if I bring in enough of these and the new 18a controllers, I can get us up to speed for the cheapest/fastest. - pun intended

they are compatible with all versions.... just incase you never got the chance...

so if you're still reading this and you are like, dude just said he was not trying to pump sales, and then offers to sell... yeah, but no one is making anything off 25 free shipping, just thought it was useful =P

so if you're a usual ESer that shares and cares, let me know if you need one and i'll get you one over 'on the GP' =) hahahah
 
Norton said:
squee22 said:
All mid motor systems will have reliability be determined by how you use it within the drive train. If you run the thing hot on too high an assist while on too high a gear you will apply torque through a locked rotor. The blue gear acts like a shear pin, failing in this case to save the controller and the motor. Think of it like a fuse. You buy a new one and you are back in business. Gear down on hills and when starting on a hill or with lots of wieght - don't abuse it - and it will last a long time.

You wouldn't start a manual transmission car in 5th gear so why start your bike in the highest gearing? .....
This is a very good description of the issue! A mechanical fuse !

But then what about the single speed users?
And what about when TS finally makes the throttle they sell, work with the system when it is plugged into the port provided for it, now?

Maybe they know that there will be SS users that don't want to pedal at all and they might be 'popping the mechanical fuse' routinely.
They could have SW that limits current-to-RPM to safely use Throttle Only. Temp sensors in the motor and power controller area could help protect the drive from hard use (abuse?).

But as you can see in this thread some owners just want to smoke the thing. Nothing wrong with playing around like that, just don't blame the hardware.
Single speed users: hmm I don't know... try dialing down the assist. Hopefully it's enough to save the gear.

Also I don't have a throttle and I'm running the 350 not the 500, on a folder - which is likely part of why I haven't had an issue yet. I am getting a 60 tooth front gear though for more speed, and hopefully the little unit can handle it. I think on my small folder though it'll flip the bike before I blow that little plastic gear.
 
RTIII said:
squee22 said:
Also - make sure you use a white lithium grease (from the tub, not the can) to lube these things. Regrease the gears after purchase cause the factory may have not used enough. Never use a petroleum grease as this might dissolve or otherwise weaken plastic parts like that blue gear. - again the cause of failure here would be human error.

Hi squee22,

can you comment / clarify "from the tub, not the can"?

I thought that most if not all lithium greases are a mixture of petroleum grease and lithium, which is, after all, a metal. ... and in any event, what has that got to do with the container it's sold in?

I guess I need to dig into this a bit further!
white lithium grease either comes in a can in a spray form - which is too thin and messy - or a tub which is thick like axel grease but won't wreck your gears like axel grease.

this is the stuff I use. 500Km and no issues so I assume it's good:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-white-grease-0280806p.html

Lithium is a metal but lithium grease is not lithium in it's metal form (it's highly reactive and you won't ever handle it in it's metal form). Lithium grease is made from lithium salts and is actually a soap.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_soap
 
Eyebyesickle ,

Are the stock chainrings you are selling with the TSDZ2 for use with 6/7/8 speed chains ?

If so having the option of buying it without the chainrings is a must for the many of us using 9 and 10 speed drive trains , and for the people who have current 11 speed chains/rear cassettes so that we can use our own chainrings.

Instead of the stock chainrings, offer 2 spider adaptors in place of the chainrings, 104 BCD, 110 BCD , or 130 BCD. ( two of the three listed , this will make sense because for Mountain Chainrings the 104 BCD, and a choice of either a 110 or 130 BCD, Since road Chainrings are 110 BCD for FSA and other brands , and 130 BCD for Shimano Chainrings.
 
It sounds like it has been stated that it comes with an 8spd chain ring, finally..
If you don't want to go the route of spider and 9-11 spd chainring assembly,, you could 'thin' the stock chain ring just at the chain contact area, on a lathe with a high speed sanding disc, and a little hand deburring...

Hey squee,
What kind of folder? I have a Bike Friday NWT, 20" wheels, with a 3x10 drivetrain, 52x12 max, I think. I don't know if I'll want a higher top speed, but bigger rings are an easy option! It's good to hear about 350 and 500W drives!

As for that lithium grease: it has a low max temp for this application, I would think. It's not meant for use in heat producing places. That gear coming out of the rotor could be really hot when operating near max current for a long time.
There are plastic-compatible, higher temp greases out there. Something like this. only with 'plastics' mentioned in the specs: http://www.qualitybearingsonline.co...NvLEjTsejEG6kjIcfq0QmeSYG8yHppE8aAoTDEALw_wcB
Crazy price, right? :eek:

eyes,
What's the inside scoop on this throttle that TS sells, but does not play at all?
And I'm all for you making a business out of supporting this cool little high-tech mid-drive!
But I'm still on the fence.
Will you be peddling (pun intended) different battery packs to go with the different power ratings of this drive?
When you package a working throttle with a 15A or 18A drive and a choice of battery pack ratings,, I'll be the first one in line !!
 
ScooterMan101 said:
Eyebyesickle ,

Are the stock chainrings you are selling with the TSDZ2 for use with 6/7/8 speed chains ?

If so having the option of buying it without the chainrings is a must for the many of us using 9 and 10 speed drive trains , and for the people who have current 11 speed chains/rear cassettes so that we can use our own chainrings.

Instead of the stock chainrings, offer 2 spider adaptors in place of the chainrings, 104 BCD, 110 BCD , or 130 BCD. ( two of the three listed , this will make sense because for Mountain Chainrings the 104 BCD, and a choice of either a 110 or 130 BCD, Since road Chainrings are 110 BCD for FSA and other brands , and 130 BCD for Shimano Chainrings.

Yea... good suggestions. I just had to send someone a 130 so they could switch to a skinnier front for the 10sp chain


Norton:

What's the inside scoop on this throttle that TS sells, but does not play at all?

Not sure, haven't had this problem... I was wondering myself...

Nice, with the pun =)
 
Norton,

I do not have a machine shop , the Machinist's here in this part of California are too busy to do such a small job.

It is best for Eyebyesickle to just minus the price of those 8 speed chainrings and offer a couple of spiders when ordering the TSDZ2. Since the Majority of bikes now are 10 and 11 speed.
I am sure at Interbike this year there will be allot of 12 speed cassettes on 2018 year model bikes.
( I am looking at using 9 speed gearing since I have already have sitting box's , the 9 speed Chain/Cassette/Derailleur , and 10 speed cranksets, note that you can use a 9 speed chain and rear cassette with a 10 speed chainring , but not a 11 speed chainring with 9 speed for the rest of the drivetrain , and not use a 10 speed chain on a 9 speed chainring/cassette )
So for many people the current 10 speed chainrings , from Shimano/Sram/FSA/Race Face, etc. will be needed for their TSDZ2 Conversion .

So you can see to be able for Eyebyesickle to cater to every bike just leaving out the Chinese Chainrings and sending a couple of spider adaptors will accomplish that.


Norton said:
It sounds like it has been stated that it comes with an 8spd chain ring, finally..
If you don't want to go the route of spider and 9-11 spd chainring assembly,, you could 'thin' the stock chain ring just at the chain contact area, on a lathe with a high speed sanding disc, and a little hand deburring...
 
eyebyesickle said:
BUT, if anyone needs the new speed sensor w/ Y split for the headlight/taillight, I can ship em next day within the US for $25...
Details? What is the power level? This works on any TSDZ2? I didn't realize there was power to that part...now I have to look at my box again. They, "Nancy" Is finally sending the parts I need to finish, the throttle and brakes. We had a huge Chinglish failure, but all sorted. As well as a parts list! Something the butt heads at Bafamng seem to refuse to supply. I can't wait to be BBSxx free. I hope this motor works out...
 
squee22 said:
white lithium grease either comes in a can in a spray form - which is too thin and messy - or a tub which is thick like axel grease but won't wreck your gears like axel grease.

this is the stuff I use. 500Km and no issues so I assume it's good:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-white-grease-0280806p.html

Lithium is a metal but lithium grease is not lithium in it's metal form (it's highly reactive and you won't ever handle it in it's metal form). Lithium grease is made from lithium salts and is actually a soap.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_soap

Hi squee22,

thanks for the clarification. I originally thought you had a typo and meant "tube" instead of "tub" because in my workshop I have it in a tube, a can, and a spray! :lol: ...In MY word choice, "can" equals your "tub"... Just oddities of dialect. -shrug-

In any event, thanks in particular for clarifying about lithium grease being a soap! :D
 
tomjasz said:
eyebyesickle said:
BUT, if anyone needs the new speed sensor w/ Y split for the headlight/taillight, I can ship em next day within the US for $25...
Details? What is the power level? This works on any TSDZ2? I didn't realize there was power to that part...now I have to look at my box again. They, "Nancy" Is finally sending the parts I need to finish, the throttle and brakes. We had a huge Chinglish failure, but all sorted. As well as a parts list! Something the butt heads at Bafamng seem to refuse to supply. I can't wait to be BBSxx free. I hope this motor works out...

They work with any version... just uses the 6v inside the controller... runs through the speed sensor... I posted some pics of the controller and some info somewhere in this thread
 
Norton said:
It sounds like it has been stated that it comes with an 8spd chain ring, finally..
If you don't want to go the route of spider and 9-11 spd chainring assembly,, you could 'thin' the stock chain ring just at the chain contact area, on a lathe with a high speed sanding disc, and a little hand deburring...

Hey squee,
What kind of folder? I have a Bike Friday NWT, 20" wheels, with a 3x10 drivetrain, 52x12 max, I think. I don't know if I'll want a higher top speed, but bigger rings are an easy option! It's good to hear about 350 and 500W drives!

As for that lithium grease: it has a low max temp for this application, I would think. It's not meant for use in heat producing places. That gear coming out of the rotor could be really hot when operating near max current for a long time.
There are plastic-compatible, higher temp greases out there. Something like this. only with 'plastics' mentioned in the specs: http://www.qualitybearingsonline.co...NvLEjTsejEG6kjIcfq0QmeSYG8yHppE8aAoTDEALw_wcB
Crazy price, right? :eek:

eyes,
What's the inside scoop on this throttle that TS sells, but does not play at all?
And I'm all for you making a business out of supporting this cool little high-tech mid-drive!
But I'm still on the fence.
Will you be peddling (pun intended) different battery packs to go with the different power ratings of this drive?
When you package a working throttle with a 15A or 18A drive and a choice of battery pack ratings,, I'll be the first one in line !!
Thanks for the advice, but I think that grease is out of my budget :) The grease I am using says it's effective up to 120 degree celsius which i'm hoping is below the temperature my motor operates at. If I get any side effects from the white lithium grease I'll be sure to report back. I'm happy to be the guinea pig.

Generally I don't think these units are designed to operate at max current for very long. The 350W rating sets normal use at about 9.5A for a 36 volt model. But the maximum amps is more like 15 or so, which would put the peak power the unit can output at 42*15= 630W. My battery is rated at 14AH. That would drain my battery in 1.5H nominal continuous usage, and 56 minutes peak continuous usage. In actuality my unit goes 4 hours before I charge it, and it still has lots of energy left - so rounding up to 5, and using nominal current of 9.5A that means the motor only operates on a duty cycle of about 30% on my commutes - or at a significantly lower nominal current load than advertised.

That said this might all change when I put a bigger gear on there - increasing the motor loading.

I'm running a 20 inch folder from MEC which is essentially a dahon or tern style folder. currently I've got a shinamo nexus 7 with a 16T on the back and a 52T on the front. pedaling at a comfortable pace I max out at just under 30kph with this setup, and 32kph if I pedal hard. I'm hoping the 60T will let me comfortably cruise at ~32kph without having to pedal too fast - which is the legal limit for an electric bike in canada. (and maybe even a little faster if I need to get away from traffic). I'll report back when I get the gear.
 
anyone have any specs on the current output of that light cct? I assume it would need to go to a solid state relay, and isn't rated for any serious current draw.
 
Back
Top