texaspyro said:
Nice... but your solvent cleaning leaves a little to be desired. First, always clean the material BEFORE and after grinding/sanding. You don't want to be grinding surface scuzz/grease into the microscopic abrasions of the grinding wheel.
Also, the way you are wiping the surface is just spreading around whatever is there and removing very little. After maybe a couple of circular wipes to loosen the surface grunge, you want to wipe in one stroke across the surface. Repeat the cleaning strokes in several directions. NEVER repeat a stroke with the same piece of cloth/solvent... that just re-deposits whatever you had already removed.
Texaspyro,
The steel brace was already cleaned before to grind them... i just not shown this part in the video.
The goal of this video is to show people a real world demonstration of what the average people can do without falling into a lot complicated technical method.
At work I have the specialized equipment to clean, like Isopropanol, methanol, acetone etc and many special wipe… at work I have to work with aerospace optics and I know how to bond lens, laser diodes, lend barrel etc as well as using specialized UV curing adhesive as well.
In our case, I tried to use and do the method that average people will do to show the result a NOT expert in bonding person will achieve. And to include some not perfect method.
In the situation I had, the idea to stroke the wipe is not a good idea.. The porous state of the grinded steel would have grip too much to the wipe and leave some wipe traces over the grinded area.
again.. with too technical and less usual methods, people would tend to think it's too complicated..
The results i obtained are result everybody can get.. that's the goal of this video... show people that with basic method they can get this result...
After all the T-A bonded with that method can hold more than twice the absolute max torque any bicycle hub motor can do
Doc
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