DP-420 METAL EPOXY REVIEW by Doctorbass

Very nice test video Doc. I especially liked the Mission Impossible touch. :) I say push the limit, let's see where it fails!

At first I thought your scale was measuring kilos. I said "Holy cow! He can lift 65 kilos with one hand, no sweat? DoctorBeast!"

Then at the end, I saw the 80 lbs... So you ARE a mere mortal, like the rest of us! :mrgreen:
 
PART II 145 pounds !!!

Include a 65 pounds test and than add 79.6 more pounds :twisted:

enjoy !

[youtube]DqKj9iwg1Mk[/youtube]

Doc
 
How about longevity, could it hold that weight "forever" or will the joint degrade over time until it fails?
 
Njay said:
How about longevity, could it hold that weight "forever" or will the joint degrade over time until it fails?


According to the spec, if no environmental parameter change ( moisture, heat etx), it would not degrade.


This test at 145 pounds is actrually showing HALF the max capacity of that epoxy

Doc
 
Doc, I expected you to jump on the batteries! You would have put some real stress on that joint then!

:D

Ambrose
 
How does it compare to arc welding? Are arc welded joints much more strong (let's assume you would arc weld your 2 iron bars, putting 1 solder cordons on each side of the contact square instead of apply the epoxy to the entire contact area as you did)? I'm just trying to get a grasp on the strength difference.
 
If thats only half the rated capacity, might as well sit on the toolbox, along with the two weights on it...
 
doctorbass, awesome videos as usual.

1) any tips on how to use the epoxy without that 3m plunger or actual 3m applicator gun?

2) i noticed that you didn't wear gloves. how bad is it if it gets on your hands? if you wash it off right away, will it all come off? or is it like super glue where it will stay on your skin for a long time?

3) if you just let it cure in room temperature, is that ok to just leave overnight? or should you use the hair dryer? in other words, was your hair dryer over made so that you can get it to cure faster or did you do that because it results in a much better bond?

merci beaucoup.
 
RVD said:
doctorbass, awesome videos as usual.

1) any tips on how to use the epoxy without that 3m plunger or actual 3m applicator gun?

Just use two cylinder tube like copper tube or other part you can dinf in your home.. you just must take care of the equal distance of both piston of the epoxy to keep tehe right ratio A "U" shape tube can be perfect


2) i noticed that you didn't wear gloves. how bad is it if it gets on your hands? if you wash it off right away, will it all come off? or is it like super glue where it will stay on your skin for a long time?

As long as you wash your hands after the use it's ok.. I personally use alchool and t clean very well

Usually it is recommanded to use gloves not only to protect you but to keep the part to be bonded clean from contaminent... but in this video i wanted to use very standard and not optimized method to AT LEAST show what this epoxy can do with nt too fancy method... so it let you imagine how strong it can be if you use the perfect method.. it mean it would be at least better than what i already shown.. so it give you margin


3) if you just let it cure in room temperature, is that ok to just leave overnight? or should you use the hair dryer? in other words, was your hair dryer over made so that you can get it to cure faster or did you do that because it results in a much better bond?

merci beaucoup.

Excellent question. Personally i observed that curing it at like 60+ degree celsius for 90 minutes of more give better results for the cure aspect ( i mean how the epoxy is when you touch it.. the feeling i mean) so if you let it to cure like 24 hours the epoxy is hard but it not appear to be hard enough like it normally become when it is cured in that diy hair dryer based oven.

after all, that oven is REALLY easy to build! so why not !.. just wait 90 minutes and it will be cured! :wink:

Doc
 
Doctorbass,
Your testing is not done till the epoxy fails. Please do what it takes to break the joint or bend the metal. Please be careful. I do not want to see a YouTube video of you hurting your self.
 
Aussie has the right idea.......jerking the throttle of a 150A 100v setup produces a wallop akin to a hammer blow. Let's see an impact test rather than a slow application of weights alone.

I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.
 
RVD said:
2) i noticed that you didn't wear gloves. how bad is it if it gets on your hands?

Most people consider epoxy to be rather benign... WRONG! Epoxy (particularly the hardener) has a nasty tendency to sensitize people to it (much like poison ivy). You should always wear gloves when handling epoxy. Use nitrile gloves, not latex gloves... the nasty-ness goes right through latex like it wasn't even there. Only work with epoxy in well ventilated areas. Also, wear a good respirator if you sand epoxy.

Handle enough epoxy and you WILL become sensitized. Really bad cases of sensitization can result in fatal anaphylactic shock just from breathing the vapors.
 
The Mighty Volt said:
Aussie has the right idea.......jerking the throttle of a 150A 100v setup produces a wallop akin to a hammer blow. Let's see an impact test rather than a slow application of weights alone.

I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.

Guys.. i will see if i can do that test.. but a hub motor 15kW starting torque is far not as brutal as a hammer punch!.. hammer will generate very high G force and vibration.

Why not just watch all my video of each of my 3 ebikes using epoxy to hold the T-A.... all my ebikes are using the same T-A and the same epoxy exept one that have also weld and screw.. but this one is by far too overkill!!

My mongoose with the 5305 in the snow at -30 with high torque on the wheel ( 220A 90V)
My KMX trike with 5304 and 250A burst at 90V
The Giant with the 5303 and the 290A 116V burst.....

All have video that proove that they did not failed IN THE EXACTS CONDITIONS WHERE THE T-A are used!

these are the real world test.. !! And i have alot of these video so...... :D

But no worrie.. i will make you forget your doubt with hammer test if you wish... but first you must convince me that a hub motor can be as brutal as a hammer punch!! :wink:

Doc
 
Thanks Doc,

Purchased some of both off-white and black. Plan to slit my 6061aluminum frame, then crush the 3/4" tubing over to 3/8," to create extra room for the chain path. Then squirt a large dollop into the tubing to keep that area of the frame strong. (have the gun and mixie tubes) Fun vids boost my confidence that the plan will work :p
 
Doctorbass said:
The Mighty Volt said:
Aussie has the right idea.......jerking the throttle of a 150A 100v setup produces a wallop akin to a hammer blow. Let's see an impact test rather than a slow application of weights alone.

I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.

Guys.. i will see if i can do that test.. but a hub motor 15kW starting torque is far not as brutal as a hammer punch!.. hammer will generate very high G force and vibration.

Why not just watch all my video of each of my 3 ebikes using epoxy to hold the T-A.... all my ebikes are using the same T-A and the same epoxy exept one that have also weld and screw.. but this one is by far too overkill!!

My mongoose with the 5305 in the snow at -30 with high torque on the wheel ( 220A 90V)
My KMX trike with 5304 and 250A burst at 90V
The Giant with the 5303 and the 290A 116V burst.....

All have video that proove that they did not failed IN THE EXACTS CONDITIONS WHERE THE T-A are used!

these are the real world test.. !! And i have alot of these video so...... :D

But no worrie.. i will make you forget your doubt with hammer test if you wish... but first you must convince me that a hub motor can be as brutal as a hammer punch!! :wink:

Doc



:D :D

20KG, 8000w STANDARD input motor...... :D :shock:

3000W_13inch_hub_motor_wheel_motor.jpg


OK...8000w, that's standard, so by Doc standards that is 16,000w :p

What do you reckon Doc?
 
The Mighty Volt said:
Doctorbass said:
The Mighty Volt said:
Aussie has the right idea.......jerking the throttle of a 150A 100v setup produces a wallop akin to a hammer blow. Let's see an impact test rather than a slow application of weights alone.

I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.

Guys.. i will see if i can do that test.. but a hub motor 15kW starting torque is far not as brutal as a hammer punch!.. hammer will generate very high G force and vibration.

Why not just watch all my video of each of my 3 ebikes using epoxy to hold the T-A.... all my ebikes are using the same T-A and the same epoxy exept one that have also weld and screw.. but this one is by far too overkill!!

My mongoose with the 5305 in the snow at -30 with high torque on the wheel ( 220A 90V)
My KMX trike with 5304 and 250A burst at 90V
The Giant with the 5303 and the 290A 116V burst.....

All have video that proove that they did not failed IN THE EXACTS CONDITIONS WHERE THE T-A are used!

these are the real world test.. !! And i have alot of these video so...... :D

But no worrie.. i will make you forget your doubt with hammer test if you wish... but first you must convince me that a hub motor can be as brutal as a hammer punch!! :wink:

Doc



:D :D

20KG, 8000w STANDARD input motor...... :D :shock:

3000W_13inch_hub_motor_wheel_motor.jpg


OK...8000w, that's standard, so by Doc standards that is 16,000w :p

What do you reckon Doc?

No prob with that 16kW stanbdard.. the T-A will hold that no problem.. the weakest part is now the frame !

Is it your new project?

Doc
 
The Mighty Volt said:
I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.

No, you'll just have the weld. The epoxy will be worthless if you weld the piece, because it has a relatively low thermal limit. FWIW applying heat is how you can get the part off later. Other than the potential for nasty fumes, I guess there's nothing wrong with using the epoxy as a clamp.
 
salty9 said:
Texaspyro is absolutely correct in his caution about epoxies. A co-worker became sensitized and required medical care.

I became a convert when a guy I new got sensitized without knowing it, spent a day working in his shop breathing the nasty vapors, and then spent a month in the hospital and over 250 kilobucks getting over it. And this is a guy that could (and probably has) drink Bombay sewer water and not even burp.
 
John in CR said:
The Mighty Volt said:
I'm not too worried in any case.....I am just using the epoxy to hold the torque plates in place while I weld them.

Then I have a weld and an epoxy.

No, you'll just have the weld. The epoxy will be worthless if you weld the piece, because it has a relatively low thermal limit. FWIW applying heat is how you can get the part off later. Other than the potential for nasty fumes, I guess there's nothing wrong with using the epoxy as a clamp.

Ah, ok, thanks for that. Maybe I will just stick with the bolts and the weld. Cheers.
 
Doctorbass said:
No prob with that 16kW stanbdard.. the T-A will hold that no problem.. the weakest part is now the frame !

Is it your new project?

Doc

No Doc my new project is a 1500w version of that motor, just so I can learn the basics and fabricate the correct frame. Then I will buy the 3000w,8000w versions.

Cheers.
 
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